词条 | List of people who died climbing Mount Everest | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
释义 |
Most deaths have been attributed to avalanches, injury from fall, serac collapse, exposure, frostbite, or health problems related to conditions on the mountain. Not all bodies have been located, so details on those deaths are not available. The upper reaches of the mountain are in the death zone. The "death zone" is a mountaineering term for altitudes above a certain point – around {{convert|8000|m|ft|abbr=on}}, or less than {{convert|356|mbar|psi}} of atmospheric pressure – where the oxygen level is not sufficient to sustain human life.[2] Many deaths in high-altitude mountaineering have been caused by the effects of the death zone, either directly (loss of vital functions) or indirectly (unwise decisions made under stress or physical weakening leading to accidents). In the death zone, the human body cannot acclimatize, as it uses oxygen faster than it can be replenished. An extended stay in the zone without supplementary oxygen will result in deterioration of bodily functions, loss of consciousness and, ultimately, death.[3][4][5] BackgroundThe most popular routes are the South Col route from the Nepalese side and the North Col route from the Tibetan side.{{Citation needed|date=January 2019}} The first recorded deaths on the mountain were the seven porters who perished in an avalanche in the 1922 British Mount Everest Expedition. George Mallory, who was present, blamed himself for the deaths.[6] During the initial 1921 British Reconnaissance Expedition there were two deaths en route to the mountain – an unidentified porter as well as heart attack victim Dr. A. M. Kellas.[6][7] While dangerous for the novice climber, the mountain has also claimed the lives of some of the most experienced climbers. Babu Chiri Sherpa had climbed the mountain ten times, and in 1999 spent 20 hours on the summit of Everest, then a new record.[8] He also climbed to the summit twice in two weeks and held the record climbing time from Base Camp to summit of 16 hours and 56 minutes.[8] He died in 2001 from a fall near Camp II. Experienced guide Rob Hall died on Everest shortly after becoming the first non-Sherpa to have summitted five times (1996). One of the most infamous tragedies on the mountain was the 1996 Mount Everest disaster on May 11, 1996, during which eight people died while making summit attempts. In that entire season, 15 people died trying to reach the summit, making it the deadliest single year in the mountain's history to that point. The disaster gained wide publicity and has been written about many times; both Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer and The Climb by Anatoli Boukreev were written by mountaineers who were on Mount Everest at the time, and they give conflicting accounts of the events. Curiously, 1996 was statistically a safe year for Everest climbers. Before 1996, one in four climbers had died making the ascent; 1996 saw huge numbers of people attempting the climb and the statistics for 1996 reveal that only one in seven died.[10] In the consecutive 2014 and 2015 seasons, tragedies each killed more than a dozen people. As a result, there were few summits from the South in 2014, and no summits at all in 2015. On April 18, 2014, 16 Sherpas were killed in an avalanche that struck Base Camp.[11][12][13] Just over a year later, on April 25, 2015, 19 people were killed in an avalanche at Base Camp following a powerful 7.8 earthquake, which killed at least 9,000 people and injured at least 23,000 in Nepal.[14][15][16] This is the worst single-day death toll ever in the history of Mount Everest, in modern incidents with accurate counts. Due to the difficulties and dangers in bringing bodies down, most of those who die on the mountain remain where they fall, although some are moved by winds and ice. Two Nepalese climbers died on October 24, 1984, while trying to recover the body of Hannelore Schmatz.[17] While searching for George Mallory's body in a "catchment basin" near the peak in 1999, searchers came across multiple bodies in the snow, including Mallory's.[18]{{NoteTag|Unconfirmed Russian deaths on the north side of Everest resulted from an alleged 1952 expedition. The Chinese, upon taking control of the region, enacted strict travel restrictions. Supposedly, the Chinese government did allow some Soviet climbers near the mountain, and reports leaked out of a Soviet expedition in 1952. The expedition, apparently led by Pavel Datschnolian, was said to have been a disaster, resulting in the deaths of Datschnolian and five other men. However, Russian and Chinese authorities have consistently denied that such an attempt took place, no physical evidence has ever been found to confirm its existence, nor is there any record of a person named Pavel Datschnolian.[19]}} Fatalities
See also
Annotations{{NoteFoot}}ReferencesCitations1. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.everesthistory.com/everestsummits/summitsbyyear.htm |title=Summits by Year |publisher=everesthistory.com|accessdate=2015-07-10}} 2. ^{{harvnb|PBS|1998}} 3. ^{{harvnb|Darack|2002|p=153}} 4. ^{{harvnb|Huey|2001|pp=3115–9}} 5. ^{{harvnb|Grocott|2009|pp=140–9}} 6. ^1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 {{harvnb|Ortner|2001|p=49}} 7. ^{{harvnb|Ortner|2001|p=31}} 8. ^1 2 {{harvnb|Handwerk|2002}} 9. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.bbc.com/future/story/20151008-the-tragic-story-of-mt-everests-most-famous-dead-body |title=The tragic tale of Mt Everest's most famous dead body |publisher=BBC |accessdate=2019-03-26}} 10. ^{{harvnb|Krakauer|1997|p=274}} 11. ^{{Cite news | title = Everest avalanche kills at least 12 Sherpa guides | publisher = BBC News | url = https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-27075638 | date = April 18, 2014 | access-date = April 18, 2014}} 12. ^{{Cite news | title = Deadliest Day: Sherpas Bear Everest's Risks | author1 = Ellen Barry | author2 = Graham Bowlet | newspaper = The New York Times | url = https://www.nytimes.com/2014/04/19/world/asia/fatal-avalanche-on-mount-everest.html | date = April 18, 2014 | access-date = April 18, 2014}} 13. ^{{Cite news | title = Everest avalanche: Search mission called off citing 'too much risk' | publisher = Kantipur Publications | url = http://www.ekantipur.com/2014/04/20/fullnews/everest-avalanche-search-mission-called-off-citing-too-much-risk/388536.html | date = April 20, 2014 | access-date = April 20, 2014}} 14. ^1 {{Cite web | title = Quake triggers Everest avalanche, reports say 18 killed | agency = Reuters | url = https://www.reuters.com/article/2015/04/25/us-quake-nepal-everest-idUSKBN0NG0AJ20150425 | access-date = May 6, 2015}} 15. ^1 {{Cite news | title = Mount Everest casualties reach 17 with unknown number still missing after devastating Nepal earthquake | newspaper = The Independent | url = 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| last1 = Payne | first1 = Ed | last2 = Shrestha | first2 = Manesh | publisher = CNN | url = http://www.cnn.com/2014/04/18/world/asia/nepal-everest-avalanche/ | date = April 20, 2014 | access-date = April 22, 2014 | ref = harv }}
| last = Philippine Daily Inquirer | author-link = Philippine Daily Inquirer | newspaper = Philippine Daily Inquirer | url = https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=2479&dat=20070519&id=e1Q1AAAAIBAJ&sjid=YiUMAAAAIBAJ&pg=2598,8307730 | date = May 19, 2007 | access-date = May 24, 2012 | ref = harv }}
| edition = 2003 | last1 = Potterfield | first1 = Peter | last2 = Hornbein | first2 = Tom | year = 2003 | publisher = The Mountaineers Books | isbn = 9780898869033 | ref = harv }}
| last = Prettyman | first = Brett | newspaper = The Salt Lake Tribune | url = http://www.sltrib.com/outdoors/ci_12326575 | date = May 8, 2009 | access-date = May 24, 2012 | ref = harv }}
| title = Death on Everest | last = Reuter | author-link = Reuters | newspaper = The Sydney Morning Herald | url = https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=zgFkAAAAIBAJ&sjid=T-cDAAAAIBAJ&pg=4060,8872982&dq=mario+piana+everest&hl=en | date = Sep 26, 1980 | access-date = August 10, 2011 | ref = harv }}
| title = Three Sherpas Killed | last = Reuter | author-link = Reuters | newspaper = The Calgary Herald | date = Sep 1, 1982 | ref = harv }}
| title = Mt. Everest Avalanche Kills Nepali Climber | last = Reuters | author-link = Reuters | newspaper = Los Angeles Times | url = http://articles.latimes.com/1988-09-23/news/mn-2543_1_everest-avalanche | date = September 23, 1988 | access-date = August 18, 2011 | ref = harv }}
| title = Eastrop man summits Mount Everest | last = Richards | first = Adam | newspaper = Basingstoke Observer | url = http://www.basingstokeobserver.co.uk/news/community/eastrop-man-summits-mount-everest-1471 | date = June 1, 2011 | access-date = May 24, 2012 | ref = harv }}
| title = Sherpas find body of Swiss killed on Everest | last = SRG SSR | first = SRG SSR | publisher = SRG SSR | url = http://www.swissinfo.ch/eng/sport/Sherpas_find_body_of_Swiss_killed_on_Everest.html?cid=8863530 | date = May 11, 2010 | access-date = May 24, 2012 | ref = harv }}
| last = Schaffer | first = Grayson | publisher = Mariah Media Network, LLC | url = http://www.outsideonline.com/blog/first-death-of-everest-climbing-season-.html | date = April 19, 2012 | access-date = May 24, 2012 | ref = harv }}
| title = Climber Dies Just Short Of Everest Peak | last = Sky News | author-link = Sky News | publisher = Sky News | url = http://news.sky.com/home/article/13365392 | archive-url = https://archive.is/20130202112455/http://news.sky.com/home/article/13365392 | dead-url = yes | archive-date = February 2, 2013 | date = June 5, 2005 | access-date = May 24, 2012 | ref = harv }}
|title=Three Climbers Die On Mount Everest Descent |last=Sky News |author-link=Sky News |publisher=Sky News |url = http://news.sky.com/home/world-news/article/16232156 |archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20120524043044/http://news.sky.com/home/world-news/article/16232156 |dead-url=yes |archive-date=May 24, 2012 |date=May 21, 2012 |access-date=May 24, 2012 |ref=harv |df= }}
| title = Everest Snowboarder Vanishes On Second Try | last = Smith | first = Sarah | magazine = National Geographic Adventure magazine | url = http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2002/09/0927_020927_siffredi.html | date = September 27, 2002 | access-date = May 24, 2012 | ref = harv }}
|title = Vitor Negrete *1967 +2006 |last = Staeudtner |first = Juergen |publisher = staeudtner.com |url = http://www.staeudtner.com/allgemein/vitor-negrete/ |date = May 10, 2010 |access-date = May 24, 2012 |ref = harv |deadurl = yes |archiveurl = https://web.archive.org/web/20120313112217/http://www.staeudtner.com/allgemein/vitor-negrete/ |archivedate = March 13, 2012 |df = mdy-all }}
| title = British climber falls to death in Everest crevasse | last1 = Starmer-Smith | first1 = Charles | last2 = Payne | first2 = Stewart | newspaper = Telegraph Media Group | location = London | url = https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/1392726/British-climber-falls-to-death-in-Everest-crevasse.html | date = May 1, 2002 | access-date = May 24, 2012 | ref = harv }}
| title = Himalayan Dreaming: Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922–1990 | edition = 2010 | last = Steffen | first = Will | year = 2010 | publisher = ANU E Press | isbn = 9781921666162 | ref = harv }}
| title = Summit, Volume 19 | edition = 1973 | last = Summit | year = 1973 | publisher = University of California | url = https://www.google.com/search?tbm=bks&tbo=1&q=Jangbu+Sherpa+was+killed+by+an+avalanche+on+Oct&btnG=#ds=bo&pq=jangbu%20sherpa%20was%20killed%20by%20an%20avalanche%20on%20oct.%2012%20between%20camps%203%20and%202&hl=en&cp=75&gs_id=1i&xhr=t&q=%22Jangbu%20Sherpa%20was%20killed%20by%20an%20avalanche%20on%20Oct.%2012%20between%20Camps%203%20and%202%22&qe=IkphbmdidSBTaGVycGEgd2FzIGtpbGxlZCBieSBhbiBhdmFsYW5jaGUgb24gT2N0LiAxMiBiZXR3ZWVuIENhbXBzIDMgYW5kIDIi&qesig=8MPXc8UCPtLK-CsTNp1llA&pkc=AFgZ2tm0o5JsvvBNHXLFY0SGYBnJXo-tLXMAVAHhFBE-d9du8hU7UkFzKLlrir8qPoxJ-TZp1mHMc3WaVioQxUaQ2EJVvtgUFQ&pf=p&sclient=psy&safe=off&tbo=1&biw=1280&bih=632&tbs=bkv:a&tbm=bks&source=hp&pbx=1&oq=%22Jangbu+Sherpa+was+killed+by+an+avalanche+on+Oct.+12+between+Camps+3+and+2%22&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&gs_sm=&gs_upl=&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.&fp=e746782db1111f91 | ref = harv }}
| title = How two men died in the jetstream | last = Sydney Morning Herald | author-link = The Sydney Morning Herald | newspaper = The Sydney Morning Herald | url = https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1301&dat=19841011&id=OTdWAAAAIBAJ&sjid=fugDAAAAIBAJ&pg=4549,5194996 | date = October 11, 1984 | access-date = December 20, 2013 | ref = harv }}
| title = 'Icefall doctor' fatally falls into Mt Everest crevasse | last = THT ONLINE | publisher = thehimalayantimes.com | url = http://www.thehimalayantimes.com/fullNews.php?headline=+%27Icefall+doctor%27+fatally+falls+into+Mt+Everest+crevasse&NewsID=372081 | date = April 8, 2013 | access-date = April 10, 2013 | ref = harv }}
| title = Milestones: Jun. 7, 1982 | last = TIME | author-link = Time (magazine) | magazine = Time | url = http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,951782,00.html | date = June 7, 1982 | access-date = August 12, 2011 | ref = harv }}
| title = Calgary climber dies after peaking Everest | last = The Canadian Press | author-link = The Canadian Press | newspaper = Toronto Star | url = https://www.thestar.com/news/canada/article/641736--calgary-climber-dies-after-peaking-everest | date = May 28, 2009 | access-date = May 24, 2012 | ref = harv }}
| title = Climber killed on Everest | last = The Spokesman-Review | author-link = The Spokesman-Review | newspaper = The Spokesman-Review | date = Sep 29, 1986 | ref = harv }}
| title = India today, Volume 10 | edition = 1985 | last = Thomson Living Media | year = 1985 | publisher = Thomson Living Media India | ref = harv }}
| title = Avalanche Kills 5 Polish Climbers on Mt. Everest | last = Times Wire Services | newspaper = Los Angeles Times | url = http://articles.latimes.com/1989-05-29/news/mn-699_1_world-s-tallest-mountain-six-climbers-avalanche | date = May 29, 1989 | access-date = August 18, 2011 | ref = harv }}
| title = Peace at last for Sleeping Beauty | last = Tweedie | first = Neil | newspaper = The Age | location = Melbourne | url = http://www.theage.com.au/news/world/peace-at-last-for-sleeping-beauty/2007/05/05/1177788469664.html?page=fullpage | date = May 6, 2007 | access-date = May 24, 2012 | ref = harv }}
| edition = 1989 | last = Unsworth | first = Walt | year = 1989 | publisher = Grafton | isbn = 9780938567189 | ref = harv }}
| edition = 1991 | last = Unsworth | first = Walt | year = 1991 | publisher = Grafton | isbn = 9780586206263 | ref = harv }}
| edition = 2000 | last = Unsworth | first = Walt | year = 2000 | publisher = The Mountaineers Books | isbn = 9780898866704 | ref = harv }}
| edition = 2008 | last1 = Warner | first1 = Chris | last2 = Schmincke | first2 = Don | year = 2008 | publisher = John Wiley & Sons | isbn = 9780470345030 | ref = harv }}
| last = Wilson | first = Bill | newspaper = Anchorage Daily News | date = Oct 8, 1979 | ref = harv }}
| last = Wire Service Reports | newspaper = The Register-Guard | date = Jan 12, 1981 | ref = harv }}
| last = Wostear | first = Samantha | newspaper = The Sun | location = London | url = http://www.thesun.co.uk/sol/homepage/news/237731/I-left-a-woman-to-die-on-Everest.html?print=yes | date = September 8, 2007 | access-date = May 27, 2012 | ref = harv }}
| title = Nepali on Mission to Clean World's Highest Peak | last = Yang | first = Yang | publisher = cri English | url = http://english.cri.cn/6966/2009/07/03/1361s498617.htm | date = July 3, 2009 | access-date = August 9, 2011 | ref = harv }}
| title = Mountain, Issues 89–94 | edition = 1983 | last = Youth Hostels Association | author-link = Hostelling International | year = 1983 | publisher = Youth Hostels Association (England and Wales) | ref = harv }}{{refend}}{{DEFAULTSORT:Everest}} 6 : Mountaineering deaths on Mount Everest|Climbing and mountaineering-related lists|Deaths in sport|History of mountaineering|Lists of people by activity|Lists of people by cause of death |
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