词条 | The Chap | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
释义 |
|title = The Chap |image_file = Chap_covers.jpg |image_size = 250px |image_caption = |editor = Gustav Temple |editor_title = Editor |previous_editor = Vic Darkwood |frequency = Quarterly (formerly bi-monthly) |format = B5 |circulation = |category = Men's lifestyle and humour |company = |publisher = |founded = 1999 |country = UK |language = English |website = {{URL|thechap.co.uk}} |issn = }} The Chap is a British humorous men's lifestyle magazine published quarterly. It was founded in 1999 by Gustav Temple and Vic Darkwood, and is still edited by Temple. The magazine proposes that men everywhere return to a more gentlemanly way of life by rejecting modern vulgarity and careless, shabby or faddish dress sense through the restoration of the lifestyle, habits, manners and traditional fashion sense of a mid-20th century (or earlier) British chap. Thus it advises men to wear traditional British suits and other similar well-tailored clothing, especially those cut from tweed; to keep their trousers sharply pressed; to be impeccably groomed; to wear quality handmade shoes, brightly polished; and a return to the wearing of hats. The Chap has a comic and eccentric twist on this. Tongue firmly in cheek, it espouses its own unique lifestyle philosophy called anarcho-dandyism[1] and has its own 10-point manifesto, The Chap Manifesto,[2] which mandates that a chap is to smoke a pipe, is to doff his hat when good manners require, is never to wear what it calls pantaloons de Nîmes, and to sport a moustache (never a beard), among others. ContentWhile The Chap appreciates British culture and loves tradition, it is strongly rooted in the Situationist strand of anarchism with more than the occasional nod to Dada.[3] It is also indebted to the avant-garde as well as comedy greats such as the Monty Pythons, Peter Cook, Spike Milligan and Viv Stanshall. {{quote|text=The idea for The Chap came out of various conversations with like-minded friends that there was no magazine aimed at gentlemen. Everything was either for vulgarians…or for the specialist hobby...So I thought, let’s start a magazine that offers advice on personal grooming, elegance and modern manners which isn’t beholden to advertisers and which is light-hearted yet firm in its stance against vulgarity. This was in 1999.|author=Gustav Temple, co-founder |source=[4] }} The Chap is predominantly a mixture of articles on clothing, footwear and headwear; on sport (mainly cricket and horse racing); on moustache grooming; on polite manners and traditional British etiquette; and on pipes and tobacco, all written in an anachronistic late-Victorian to mid-20th Century British style, interspersed with humorous jokes. For instance, the "Am I Chap" section sees people sending in photos of themselves dressed in vintage attire, to which the magazine's editors almost always comment on derisively in a very withering, but humorous, fashion. {{quote|text=The Chap is a bit like a club – there are lots of cosy in-jokes and references, though we also like to display affectionate disdain for some of the readers who send in their photos dressed as “Chaps”, merely to remind everyone that we actually believe in dressing properly or not at all. I recently conducted a reader survey and one of the questions was “Should we get rid of ‘Am I Chap?’” The response was unanimously against, in other words, despite the criticism, readers love that column. |author=Gustav Temple|source=[5] }}The Chap also features articles on a diverse range of things related to Chappism, such as tales of First World War and Second World War military derring-do, stories or tips on unusual ways to travel when abroad, or the late Victorian and Edwardian martial art of Bartitsu.[6] The magazine has often been very satirical or whimsical, with content such as a series chronicling "A Year in Catford" and "Amusing Monograph as to the Various Pleasures and Diversions Afforded by One's Valet".[7][8] Notable contributors to The Chap include Michael "Atters" Attree who conducts interviews with those known for their gentlemanly or dandyish ways, and Miss Martindale, a prominent spokesperson of Aristasia, who from 2003 to 2005 wrote the Ladies' Column. Publication historyThe magazine is printed in B5 format, and originally was published in that format as well. In May 2009, the magazine nearly closed due to financial issues arising from moving from B5 to the larger A4 format format. To keep going The Chap asked its readership and subscribers to donate funds. Additionally, Viz Magazine financially supported the magazine. It returned to B5 to reduce printing costs.[9] The Chap was published bi-monthly from 1999 to May 2017. From issue #92 published in May 2017, the magazine has been published quarterly, has double the number of pages, and has been graphically redesigned. On this "relaunch" the editor said: {{quotation|Britain’s longest-running gentlemen’s periodical has relaunched, with impeccable timing. The Chap has refined its image, expanded its editorial reach and broadened its horizons. When launched in 1999, its message was completely at odds with the prevailing culture of lads’ mags. The world has caught up with The Chap because its platform no longer seems eccentric or quirky.|Gustav Temple|editor|[10]}} Chap eventsThe Chap hosts the annual summer Chap Olympiad which is normally held in Bedford Square Gardens in London.[11]The magazine has also conducted a number of balls called the Grand Anarcho-Dandyist Balls.[12] Chap protestsThe magazine has also organised several serious and semi-serious protests, all conducted in the unique tongue-in-cheek Chap style. These include:
Chap publicationsIn addition to the magazine, a number of books have been published by The Chap over the years: these include How To Be Chap[18] and books both on cooking and drinking for "chaps".
References1. ^{{cite web|title=Steady on, Chaps|url=https://londonparticulars.wordpress.com/tag/anarcho-dandyism/|website=London Particulars|accessdate=18 May 2017|date=8 December 2010}} 2. ^http://thechapmagazine.co.uk/content/section_manifesto/ 3. ^{{cite web|title=Suits You, Sir: an Interview with Gustav Temple of The Chap|url=http://www.zyworld.com/albionmagazineonline/society2.htm|work=Albion Magazine Online|accessdate=19 April 2015|author=Isabel Taylor|date=2008}} 4. ^{{cite web|title=The Vulgarian Invasions|url=http://www.3ammagazine.com/3am/the-vulgarian-invasions/|website=AM Magazine|accessdate=18 May 2017|date=7 October 2004}} 5. ^{{cite web|author1=Ville Raivio|title=Interview with Gustav Temple|url=http://www.keikari.com/english/interview-with-gustav-temple/|website=Keikari.com|accessdate=21 May 2017|date=May 6, 2013}} 6. ^{{cite web|author1="Bartitsuka"|title=Bartitsu featured in "the Chap" magazine|url=http://www.bartitsu.org/index.php/2008/11/bartitsu-featured-in-the-chap-magazine/|accessdate=18 May 2017|date=5 November 2008}} 7. ^1 {{cite web|title=Shortcuts: Up and at 'em, Chaps!|url=https://www.theguardian.com/theguardian/2003/oct/09/features11.g2|website=The Guardian|accessdate=20 May 2017|date=9 October 2003}} 8. ^{{cite web|title=Rare Back Issues|url=http://thechapmagazine.co.uk/content/section_shop-hidden/rare-back-issues.html|website=The Chap|accessdate=24 May 2017}} 9. ^{{cite web|title=The Chap Saved by its Readers|url=http://thechapmagazine.co.uk/2009/06/the-chap-will-almost-certainly-be-saved|work=The Chap|accessdate=2 December 2013|date=4 June 2009}} 10. ^{{cite web|author1=Gustav Temple|title=Elegance isn’t just for toffs, even if we don’t all desire a waxed moustache|url=http://www.express.co.uk/comment/expresscomment/810106/sir-roger-moor-death-the-chap-magazine|website=Daily Express|accessdate=1 June 2017|date=28 May 2017}} 11. ^{{cite web|title=Chap Olympiad 2013|url=https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/gallery/2013/jul/15/chap-olympiad-2013-in-pictures|publisher=The Guardian|accessdate=2 December 2013|author=|date=15 July 2013}} 12. ^{{cite web|title=The Second Grand Anarcho-Dandyist Ball|url=http://thechap.co.uk/2010/11/the-second-grand-anarcho-dandyist-ball/|website=The Chap|accessdate=21 May 2017|format=1 November 2010}} 13. ^{{cite web|title=The V&A Protest|url=http://thechapmagazine.co.uk/content/section_manifesto/artprotest.html|website=The Chap|accessdate=21 May 2017}} 14. ^{{cite web|title=Civilise the City|url=http://thechapmagazine.co.uk/content/section_manifesto/civilise-the-city.html|website=The Chap|accessdate=21 May 2017}} 15. ^{{cite web|title=The Tate Protest|url=http://thechapmagazine.co.uk/content/section_manifesto/tateprotest.html|work=The Chap|accessdate=19 April 2015}} 16. ^{{cite web|title=The Siege of Savile Row|url=http://thechap.co.uk/2012/04/the-siege-of-savile-row/|website=The Chap|accessdate=20 May 2017|date=23 April 2012}} 17. ^{{cite web|title=Sorry chaps, Abercrombie & Fitch simply doesn't fit Savile Row|url=https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2012/apr/24/abercrombie-fitch-doesnt-fit-savile-row?INTCMP=SRCH|website=The Guardian|accessdate=20 May 2017|date=25 April 2012}} 18. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.highsnobiety.com/2016/07/24/adidas-skateboarding/|title=The 5 Books and Magazines We’re Reading This Weekend {{!}} Highsnobiety|date=2017-10-16|work=Highsnobiety|access-date=2017-10-16|language=en-US}} External links
5 : 1999 establishments in the United Kingdom|British quarterly magazines|British men's magazines|Humor magazines|Magazines established in 1999 |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
随便看 |
|
开放百科全书收录14589846条英语、德语、日语等多语种百科知识,基本涵盖了大多数领域的百科知识,是一部内容自由、开放的电子版国际百科全书。