| 词条 | Supportasse | ||
| 释义 |
A supportasse or underpropper is a stiffened support for a ruff or collar.[1][2][3] Essential items of courtly fashion in the late 16th and early 17th centuries, supportasses are sometimes called piccadills (picadils, pickadills), whisks, or rebatos, terms used at different times for both the supporters and the various lace or linen collar styles to which they were attached.[2][4] {{quotation|1=I pray you, sir, what say you to these great ruffs, which are borne up with supporters and rebatoes, as it were with post and rail?|2=Arthur Dent|3=The Plain Man's Pathway To Heaven (1631)|4=[5]}}Decorative supportasses were often made of wire fashioned in loops and scallops, covered over with colored silk, gold, or silver thread. Supporters stiffened with cardboard or pasteboard and covered in silk or linen were also popular.[2] They were held in place with ties or points fastened through worked holes at the back of the collar.[3] Examples of both types of supportasse survive in the costume collections of the Victoria and Albert Museum, the Metropolitan Museum of Art, and the Musée national du Moyen Âge (formerly Musée de Cluny).[2] GalleryReferences1. ^{{cite book | title=Vocabulary of Basic Terms for Cataloguing Costume|url=http://www.collectionstrust.org.uk/assets/thesaurus_icombts/vbt00e.htm|author=International Council of Museums|oclc=66084355|authorlink=International Council of Museums|publisher=International Council of Museums|year=1982}} 2. ^1 2 3 {{cite book | last = Arnold | first = Janet | authorlink = Janet Arnold | title = Patterns of fashion 4: The cut and construction of linen shirts, smocks, neckwear, headwear and accessories for men and women c.1540-1660 | publisher = Quite Specific Media Group | location = Hollywood, CA | year = 2008 | isbn = 0896762629 |pages=32–38}} 3. ^1 {{cite book | last = Cumming | first = Valerie | title = The dictionary of fashion history | publisher = Berg | location = Oxford New York | year = 2010 | isbn = 9781847885333 |page = 199}} 4. ^{{cite book | last = Cumming | first = Valerie | title = The dictionary of fashion history | publisher = Berg | location = Oxford New York | year = 2010 | isbn = 9781847885333 |pages = 156, 170, 199}} 5. ^{{cite web|url=https://archive.org/stream/plainmanspathway00dentuoft/plainmanspathway00dentuoft_djvu.txt|last=Dent|first=Arthur|title=The Plain Man's Pathway To Heaven|chapter=Pride of Dress|page=34|accessdate=17 October 2014}} External linksExtant supportasses:
4 : 16th-century fashion|17th-century fashion|History of clothing (Europe)|Neckwear |
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