词条 | Taulliraju |
释义 |
| name = Taulliraju | photo = Taulliraju.JPG | photo_caption = | map = Peru | map_caption = Peru | location = Ancash, Peru | label_position = | coordinates = {{coord|8|53|33|S|77|34|45|W|type:mountain_region:PE_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}} | elevation_m = 5830 | elevation_ref = | prominence_m = | prominence_ref = | listing = | range = Andes, Cordillera Blanca | topo = | range_coordinates = | coordinates_ref = | type = | age = | first_ascent = | easiest_route = | map_size = 240 }}Taulliraju[1][2] (possibly from Quechua tawlli a kind of legume,[3] rahu snow, ice, mountain with snow,[4]) is a mountain in the Cordillera Blanca in the Andes of Peru, about {{convert|5830|m|ft|0}} high[2] (other sources cite {{convert|6303|m|ft|0}} of elevation).[1] It is located between the provinces of Huaylas and Pomabamba in the region of Ancash. Taulliraju lies inside Huascarán National Park, south east of Pucajirca and east of Rinrijirca.[1] Climbing{{Unreferenced|date=July 2016|section}}There are a number of routes, but there is no easy way to climb this spectacular mountain. The easier two are perhaps the south-southeast ridge or the north face; all the other routes are more difficult. The south-southeast ridge and the north face are rated TD-, the south buttress is TD, the southwest face is ED1 and the east buttress is ED1/ED2. The east buttress on the southwest face, known also as Fowler-Watts route was climbed on the 26 May 1982 and since has defeated many competent parties. It is a serious undertaking on mixed ground, steep sections of rock (difficulty UIAA V+) with key passages at A3+ and vertical rotten ice. A variation of the Fowler-Watts route is the Sykes-Clay, climbed on 10 July 1989 and rarely repeated since. The 1-km long west ridge was climbed on the 26 June 2016 by a New Zealand team comprising Pearson, McDowell, Fortune and Measures. The route took five days round-trip from the base camp with three bivvys on the ridge, and involved difficulties up to M5, WI4 and UIAA VI-. See also
References1. ^1 2 {{Cite book|title=Peru 1:100 000, Corongo (18-h)|last=|first=|publisher=IGN (Instituto Geográfico Nacional - Perú)|year=|isbn=|location=|pages=}} 2. ^1 {{Cite book|title=Alpenvereinskarte 0/3a. Cordillera Blanca Nord (Peru). 1:100 000|last=|first=|publisher=Oesterreichischer Alpenverein|year=2005|isbn=3-928777-57-2|location=|pages=}} 3. ^Ana Arias Torre, Toponimia de Ticabamba, in LETRAS, Órgano de la Facultad de Letras y Ciencias Humanas , Universidad Nacional Mayor de San Marcos, Lima 2002: tawlli - Tipo de legumbre, muy parecido al chocho 4. ^babylon.com {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141229085317/http://traductor.babylon.com/quechua/a-ingles/rahu/ |date=2014-12-29 }} External links{{commons category|Taulliraju}}{{DEFAULTSORT:Taulliraju}}{{Ancash-geo-stub}} 4 : Mountains of Peru|Mountains of Ancash Region|Glaciers of Peru|Five-thousanders of the Andes |
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