“2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships”的意思、由来-开放百科全书

词条

2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships

释义

Medal Table
Medal winners overview
Lead
Women Men
Speed
Women Men
Bouldering
Women Men
Combined
Women Men
References
External links

{{Infobox sport event
| name = 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships
| image = Climbing World Championships 2018 Lead Final 01.jpg
| size =
| caption = Women's Lead Final route
| date = 6 – 16 September 2018
| competitors = 834
| broadcasters =
| nations = 58
| website = https://www.innsbruck2018.com/
| winners =
| prize_money =
| other =
| format =
| venue = Olympiaworld Innsbruck, Kletterzentrum Innsbruck, Marktplatz
| location = {{flagicon|AUT}} Innsbruck, Austria
| men =

(L) {{flagicon|AUT}} Jakob Schubert

(B) {{flagicon|JPN}} Kai Harada

(S) {{flagicon|IRI}} Reza Alipour

| women =

(L) {{flagicon|AUT}} Jessica Pilz

(B) {{flagicon|SLO}} Janja Garnbret

(S) {{flagicon|POL}} Aleksandra Rudzinska

| prev = 2016
| next = 2019
}}

The 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 15th edition, were held in Innsbruck, Austria from 6 to 16 September 2018.^[1]

Medal Table

{{Medals table
| caption =
| host =
| flag_template =
| event =
| team =
| gold_AUT = 3 | silver_AUT = 0 | bronze_AUT = 1
| gold_SLO = 2 | silver_SLO = 1 | bronze_SLO = 1
| gold_JPN = 1 | silver_JPN = 1 | bronze_JPN = 0
| gold_POL = 1 | silver_POL = 1 | bronze_POL = 0
| gold_IRN = 1 | silver_IRN = 0 | bronze_IRN = 0
| gold_KOR = 0 | silver_KOR = 2 | bronze_KOR = 1
| gold_CZE = 0 | silver_CZE = 2 | bronze_CZE = 0
| gold_FRA = 0 | silver_FRA = 1 | bronze_FRA = 0
| gold_GER = 0 | silver_GER = 0 | bronze_GER = 2
| gold_RUS = 0 | silver_RUS = 0 | bronze_RUS = 2
| gold_SRB = 0 | silver_SRB = 0 | bronze_SRB = 1
}}

Medal winners overview

Individual Finals
Men's Speed	Reza Alipour\|IRI}}	{{ill\|Bassa Mawem\|fr}}\|FRA}}	{{ill\|Stanislav Kokorin\|fr}}\|RUS}}
Men's Lead	Jakob Schubert\|AUT}}	Adam Ondra\|CZE}}	Alex Megos\|GER}}
Men's Bouldering	{{ill\|Kai Harada\|de}}\|JPN}}	Jongwon Chon\|KOR}}	{{ill\|Gregor Vezonik\|cs}}\|SLO}}
Men's Overall	Jakob Schubert\|AUT}}	Adam Ondra\|CZE}}	Jan Hojer\|GER}}
Women's Speed	{{ill\|Aleksandra Rudzinska\|fr}}\|POL}}	Anna Brozek\|POL}}	{{ill\|Mariia Krasavina\|fr}}\|RUS}}
Women's Lead	Jessica Pilz\|AUT}}	Janja Garnbret\|SLO}}	Kim Ja-in\|KOR}}
Women's Bouldering	Janja Garnbret\|SLO}}	Akiyo Noguchi\|JPN}}	{{ill\|Staša Gejo\|cs}}\|SRB}}
Women's Overall	Janja Garnbret\|SLO}}	Sol Sa\|KOR}}	Jessica Pilz\|AUT}}

Lead

The lead competition was the first event held at the 2018 World Championships. The women's qualification took place on the opening day, 6 September, at the Kletterzentrum, and the men's was held the following day at the same location. Women's semi-final and final were held on 8 September and the respective men's competitions the next day both at the Olympiaworld.

Women

101 athletes attended the women's lead competition. In the final penultimate climber Jessica Pilz was the first to top the route. Janja Garnbret came out as the last climber and topped the route as well. As both climbers had the same first tiebreaker by virtue of having topped the semi-final route the ranking was decided by their time on the final route, which Pilz had climbed faster and thus was awarded the Gold Medal. Bronze went to Kim Ja-in.

Rank	Name	Score
1	AUT}} Jessica Pilz	Top
2	SVN}} Janja Garnbret	Top
3	KOR}} Kim Ja-in	34+
4	JPN}} Mei Kotake	33+
5	USA}} Ashima Shiraishi	32
6	BEL}} Anak Verhoeven	31+
7	SVN}} Mia Krampl	31+
8	JPN}} Akiyo Noguchi	31+
9	AUT}} Hannah Schubert	31+
10	ITA}} Laura Rogora	24+

Men

124 athletes attended the men's lead competition. Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert achieved the same score (36+) on the final route. Innsbruck-born Schubert won the gold medal due to his better tie-breaker, having achieved the better score in the semi-final. The bronze medal went to Alex Megos (33.5)

Rank	Name	Score
1	AUT}} Jakob Schubert	36+
2	CZE}} Adam Ondra	36+
3	DEU}} Alex Megos	33.5
4	JPN}} Meichi Narasaki	31+
5	SVN}} Domen Škofic	29+
6	CZE}} Jakub Konecny	29+
6	JPN}} Tomoaki Takata	29+
8	SUI}} Sascha Lehmann	23
9	ITA}} Marcello Bombardi	20+
10	JPN}} Kai Harada	16+

Speed

The speed competitions took place in the Olympiaworld with the qualification rounds and the finals both being held on 13 September.

Women

94 athletes competed in the women's speed climbing event. Alexandra Rudzinska (7.56s) won the final of the speed competition over her Polish countrywoman Anna Brozek (7.91s). Mariia Krasavina won the bronze medal in the small final against Aleksandra Kalucka, who false started.

{{16TeamBracket
| RD1 = Round of 16
| RD2 = Quarter-finals
| RD3 = Semi-finals
| RD1-seed09 =
| RD1-team09 = Anouck Jaubert
| RD1-score09 = FL
| RD1-seed10 =
| RD1-team10 = Alla Marenych
| RD1-score10 = 8.395
| RD1-seed11 =
| RD1-team11 = Anna Brozek
| RD1-score11 = 7.908
| RD1-seed12 =
| RD1-team12 = Iuliia Kaplina
| RD1-score12 = 8.437
| RD1-seed15 =
| RD1-team15 = YiLing Song
| RD1-score15 = 8.362
| RD1-seed16 =
| RD1-team16 = Victoire Andrier
| RD1-score16 = FL
| RD1-seed01 =
| RD1-team01 = Aleksandra Rudzinska
| RD1-score01 = 8.162
| RD1-seed02 =
| RD1-team02 = CuiLian He
| RD1-score02 = 10.367
| RD1-seed13 =
| RD1-team13 = Mariia Krasavina
| RD1-score13 = 8.264
| RD1-seed14 =
| RD1-team14 = Ekaterina Barashchuck
| RD1-score14 = 8.302
| RD1-seed07 =
| RD1-team07 = Anna Tsyganova
| RD1-score07 = 7.978
| RD1-seed08 =
| RD1-team08 = Di Niu
| RD1-score08 = 8.037
| RD1-seed05 =
| RD1-team05 = Aleksandra Kalucka
| RD1-score05 = 8.038
| RD1-seed06 =
| RD1-team06 = Natalia Kalucka
| RD1-score06 = 8.274
| RD1-seed03 =
| RD1-team03 = Elizaveta Ivanova
| RD1-score03 = 8.304
| RD1-seed04 =
| RD1-team04 = Patrycja Chudziak
| RD1-score04 = 8.159
| RD2-team01 = Aleksandra Rudzinska
| RD2-score01 = 7.830
| RD2-team02 = Patrycja Chudziak
| RD2-score02 = 7.880
| RD2-team03 = Aleksandra Kalucka
| RD2-score03 = WC
| RD2-team04 = Anna Tsyganova
| RD2-score04 = FS
| RD2-team05 = Alla Marenych
| RD2-score05 = 8.174
| RD2-team06 = Anna Brozek
| RD2-score06 = 7.961
| RD2-team07 = Mariia Krasavina
| RD2-score07 = 7.713
| RD2-team08 = YiLing Song
| RD2-score08 = 8.906
| RD3-team01 = Aleksandra Rudzinska
| RD3-score01 = 7.775
| RD3-team02 = Aleksandra Kalucka
| RD3-score02 = 11.971
| RD3-team03 = Anna Brozek
| RD3-score03 = WC
| RD3-team04 = Anna Tsyganova
| RD3-score04 = FS
| RD4-team01 = Aleksandra Rudzinska
| RD4-score01 = 7.650
| RD4-team02 = Anna Brozek
| RD4-score02 = 7.910
}}

Men

125 athletes competed in the men's speed competition. Reza Alipour (5.630s) won the final against Bassa Mawem (fell). In the small final Stanislav Kokorin (6.028s) won against QiXin Zhong (fell) and thus claimed the bronze medal.

{{16TeamBracket
| RD1 = Round of 16
| RD2 = Quarter-finals
| RD3 = Semi-finals
| RD1-seed01 =
| RD1-team01 = Reza Alipour
| RD1-score01 = 6.144
| RD1-seed02 =
| RD1-team02 = Jordan Fishman
| RD1-score02 = 8.977
| RD1-seed03 =
| RD1-team03 = Kostiantyn Pavlenko
| RD1-score03 = 6.228
| RD1-seed04 =
| RD1-team04 = Leonardo Gontero
| RD1-score04 = fell
| RD1-seed05 =
| RD1-team05 = Vladislav Deulin
| RD1-score05 = 6.053
| RD1-seed06 =
| RD1-team06 = Dmitrii Timofeev
| RD1-score06 = 12.236
| RD1-seed07 =
| RD1-team07 = Stanislav Kokorin
| RD1-score07 = 5.953
| RD1-seed08 =
| RD1-team08 = Aleksandr Shilov
| RD1-score08 = 6.438
| RD1-seed09 =
| RD1-team09 = Bassa Mawem
| RD1-score09 = WC
| RD1-seed10 =
| RD1-team10 = Amir Maimuratov
| RD1-score10 = FS
| RD1-seed11 =
| RD1-team11 = Ludovico Fossali
| RD1-score11 = FS
| RD1-seed12 =
| RD1-team12 = Jan Kriz
| RD1-score12 = WC
| RD1-seed13 =
| RD1-team13 = Aleksandr Shikov
| RD1-score13 = 5.851
| RD1-seed14 =
| RD1-team14 = PengHui Lin
| RD1-score14 = 6.044
| RD1-seed15 =
| RD1-team15 = QiXin Zhong
| RD1-score15 = 5.993
| RD1-seed16 =
| RD1-team16 = Marcin Dzienski
| RD1-score16 = 6.428
| RD2-team01 = Reza Alipour
| RD2-score01 = 5.808
| RD2-team02 = Kostiantyn Pavlenko
| RD2-score02 = 6.021
| RD2-team03 = Vladislav Deulin
| RD2-score03 = 5.904
| RD2-team04 = Stanislav Kokorin
| RD2-score04 = 5.832
| RD2-team05 = Bassa Mawem
| RD2-score05 = 5.714
| RD2-team06 = Jan Kriz
| RD2-score06 = 6.466
| RD2-team07 = Aleksandr Shikov
| RD2-score07 = 6.354
| RD2-team08 = QiXin Zhong
| RD2-score08 = 5.609
| RD3-team01 = Reza Alipour
| RD3-score01 = 5.709
| RD3-team02 = Stanislav Kokorin
| RD3-score02 = 5.836
| RD3-team03 = Bassa Mawem
| RD3-score03 = 5.638
| RD3-team04 = QiXin Zhong
| RD3-score04 = 7.540
| RD4-team01 = Reza Alipour
| RD4-score01 = 5.630
| RD4-team02 = Bassa Mawem
| RD4-score02 = FL
}}

Bouldering

The bouldering event was held over four days. The qualifying took place at Kletterzentrum with the women's qualification held on 11 September and the men's on 12 September. Semi-finals and finals were held at the Olympiaworld on 14 September for the women and 15 September for the men.

Women

112 athletes attended the women's bouldering competition. In the bouldering final lead finalists Janja Garnbret, Akiyo Noguchi, and Jessica Pilz made another appearance. The World Cup bouldering seasonal winner Miho Nonaka, reigning world champion Petra Klingler, and Stasa Gejo completed the final. Garnbret won gold over Noguchi and Gejo won bronze.

Rank	Name	Score
1	SVN}} Janja Garnbret	2T3z 7 7
2	JPN}} Akiyo Noguchi	2T2z 4 3
3	SRB}} Stasa Gejo	1T2z 1 6
4	AUT}} Jessica Pilz	0T2z 0 4
5	JPN}} Miho Nonaka	0T2z 0 4
6	SUI}} Petra Klingler	0T0z 0 0

Men

150 athletes attended the men's bouldering competition, making it the largest individual event at the World Championship. Kai Harada (4T4z 7 6) won the Gold medal over Jongwon Chon (3T4z 9 10) and Gregor Vezonik (3T4z 9 17). The reigning champion, Tomoa Narasaki, and the World Cup seasonal winner, Jernej Kruder, missed the cut to the final.

Rank	Name	Score
1	JPN}} Kai Harada	4T4z 7 6
2	KOR}} Jongwon Chon	3T4z 9 10
3	SVN}} Gregor Vezonik	3T4z 9 17
4	JPN}} Keita Watabe	2T4z 6 10
5	JPN}} Kokoro Fujii	2T2z 5 4
6	UK}} Nathan Phillips	1T2z 5 6

Combined

In the Combined competition the six most successful athletes of the previous competitions competed against each other in Speed, Bouldering and Lead. The athletes were selected by multiplying each athletes rank from the three individual competitions. The six climbers with the lowest scores determined by this method were invited to compete in the Combined final. In the final itself the athletes were again ranked by multiplying their rank in the Speed, Bouldering and Lead portion with a lower score leading to a better Combined rank.

The women's and men's combined final were both held at the Olympiaworld, the women's on 15 September and the men's on 16 September.

Women

Rank	Name	Score	Speed	Bouldering	Lead
1	SVN}} Janja Garnbret	5.00	5	1 (4T4z 7 7)	1 (Top)
2	KOR}} Sol Sa	12.00	1	2 (2T4z 9 18)	6 (23+)
3	AUT}} Jessica Pilz	24.00	2	6 (1T2z 2 7)	2 (Top)
4	JPN}} Akiyo Noguchi	54.00	6	3 (2T2z 6 6)	3 (31+)
5	JPN}} Miho Nonaka	64.00	4	4 (2T2z 10 8)	4 (26+)
6	SUI}} Petra Klingler	75.00	3	5 (2T2z 12 12)	5 (26+)

Men

Rank	Name	Score	Speed	Bouldering	Lead
1	AUT}} Jakob Schubert	4.00	2	1 (4T4z 8 4)	2 (37+)
2	CZE}} Adam Ondra	10.00	5	2 (4T4z 11 6)	1 (42+)
3	DEU}} Jan Hojer	24.00	1	4 (3T4z 8 6)	6 (26+)
4	JPN}} Kai Harada	60.00	4	5 (3T3z 7 4)	3 (34+)
5	JPN}} Tomoa Narasaki	72.00	6	3 (3T4z 6 5)	4 (34)
6	JPN}} Kokoro Fujii	90.00	3	6 (2T4z 2 5)	5 (30+)

References

1. ^Next IFSC World Championships Announcement

External links

{{Official website|https://www.innsbruck2018.com}}
IFSC: IFSC Climbing World Championship (results)

4 : IFSC Climbing World Championships|2018 in sport climbing|2018 in Austrian sport|September 2018 sports events in Europe

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