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词条 Akiyo Noguchi
释义

  1. Biography

  2. Rankings

      Climbing World Cup    Climbing World Championships[7]  

  3. Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

      Lead[7]    Bouldering[7]  

  4. Rock climbing

      Redpointed routes    Boulder problems  

  5. Media

  6. References

  7. External links

{{Infobox climber
| image = Akiyosa.jpg
| image_size =
| caption =
| name = Akiyo Noguchi
| nationality = Japan
| birth_date = {{Birth date and age|1989|05|30}}
| birth_place = Japan
| death_date =
| death_place =
| residence =
| education =
| occupation = Professional sport climbing
| height = 165 cm
| weight = 49 kg
| typeofclimber = Bouldering, Lead climbing
| highestgrade = {{Climbing grade|8c+}}
| highestredpoint = {{Climbing grade|8c+}}
| highestonsight =
| highestflash =
| highestboulder = {{Boulder grade|8A+}}
| knownfor = Winning the bouldering World Cup 4 times
| firstascents =
| namedroutes =
| majorascents =
| website = http://akiyonoguchi.com
| updated =
|medaltemplates = {{MedalCount
| World Cup | 21 | 19 | 22
| World Championship | - | 2 | 3
}}{{Medal|Competition|World Cup}}{{Medal|Second|2008|Bouldering}}{{Medal|Winner|2008|Combined}}{{Medal|Winner|2009|Bouldering}}{{Medal|Winner|2009|Combined}}{{Medal|Winner|2010|Bouldering}}{{Medal|Second|2011|Bouldering}}{{Medal|Second|2012|Bouldering}}{{Medal|Second|2013|Bouldering}}{{Medal|Winner|2014|Bouldering}}{{Medal|Winner|2014|Combined}}{{Medal|Winner|2015|Bouldering}}{{Medal|Second|2015|Combined}}{{Medal|Second|2016|Combined}}{{Medal|Third |2017|Bouldering}}{{Medal|Second|2018|Bouldering}}{{Medal|Second|2018|Combined}}{{Medal|Competition|World Championships}}{{Medal|Bronze|2005|Lead}}{{Medal|Silver|2007|Bouldering}}{{Medal|Bronze|2014|Bouldering}}{{Medal|Bronze|2016|Bouldering}}{{Medal|Silver|2018|Bouldering}}
|show-medals = yes
}}{{Nihongo|Akiyo Noguchi|野口 啓代|Noguchi Akiyo|born May 30, 1989}} is a Japanese professional rock climber, sports climber and boulderer. She participates in both bouldering and lead climbing competitions. She is known for winning the IFSC Climbing World Cup in Bouldering four times.

Biography

Noguchi started climbing when she was 12 years old.

In 2007, she started competing in the Bouldering World Cup, reaching the podium three times. In 2009, she won the World Cup in bouldering, over the previous year's champion Anna Stöhr.[1] Noguchi repeated as champion in 2010, 2014 and 2015. In the 2011, 2012 and 2013 bouldering events at the World Cup she placed second. She has also won the combined climbling title at the World Cup three times.

Noguchi was also awarded the La Sportiva Competition Award in 2010, "for her victories and the positive spirit she exudes during competitions".[2]

Rankings

Climbing World Cup

20052006200720082009201020112012201320142015201620172018
Lead 42 21 24 5 11 8 20 13 7 10 30 17 15 8
Bouldering - - 621122211 432
Combined - - 5112332122 62

Climbing World Championships[7]

20052007200920112012201420162018
Lead3 11 8 - - 9 - 8
Bouldering 212 5 5 6332
Speed - - 31 - - - - 47
Combined - - 31 - - - - 4

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead[7]

SeasonGoldSilverBronzeTotal
2008 1 1
2009 1 1
2010 2 2
2011
2012
0
2013 1 1
2014 1 1
2015 0
2016 1 1
2017 0
2018 1 1
Total 0 3 5 8

Bouldering[7]

SeasonGoldSilverBronzeTotal
2007 2 1 3
2008 1 1 1 3
2009 3 1 1 5
2010 2 1 1 4
2011 4 1 5
2012 3 3
2013 3 2 5
2014 4 1 2 7
2015 1 3 4
2016 1 2 3
2017 2 3 5
2018 3 4 7
2019 1 1
Total 21 17 17 55

Rock climbing

Redpointed routes

{{climbing grade|8B}}:
  • Liquid Finger - Joyama (JPN) - December 12, 2008
{{climbing grade|8C+}}:
  • Mind Control - Oliana (SPN) - December 10, 2013

Boulder problems

{{Boulder grade|8A+}}
  • Aguni - Mizugaki (JPN) - November 2014.[3]
  • A Maze of Death - Bishop (CAL) - 2016.[4]
{{Boulder grade|8A}}
  • Monsterman SD - Jyougasaki (JPN) - February 2010.[5][6]
  • Evilution Direct - Bishop (CAL) - 2016.[7]

Media

Akiyo Noguchi is world renowned for her incredible technique and mobility. Udo Newmann, a German climbing coach, published a video of some of her best performances throughout her career, analyzing the qualities that have allowed her to excel in climbing. This video, entitled "Factors Deciding Bouldering Comps - the Art of Akiyo Noguchi,"[8] emphasizes her adaptability, which enables her to come up with unique solutions to the problems she encounters. Furthermore, her mobility allows her to do moves that elude her fellow competitors.[9] She has also gained notoriety on social medias, such as Instagram, where she has over 80 thousand followers.[10]

References

1. ^{{web cite|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews1.lasso?l=1&keyid=36811|title=Coppa del Mondo Boulder 2009: Fischhuber e Noghuchi al top, Moroni è terzo|editor=planetmountain.com|date=June 16, 2009|access-date=April 29, 2012}}
2. ^{{web cite|url=http://www.arco2011.it/index.php/2010/07/18/arco-rock-legend-2010-a-manolo-ondra-e-noguchi/|title=Arco Rock Legend 2010 a Manolo, Ondra e Noguchi|editor=arco2011.it|author=Vinicio Stefanello|date=July 18, 2010|access-date=December 22, 2011}}
3. ^{{cite web|url=https://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/akiyo-noguchi-crimps-to-glory-on-aguni-v12-%7C-epictv-climbing-daily-ep-383/600745 |title=Akiyo Noguchi Crimps To Glory On ‘Aguni’ V12 {{!}} EpicTV Climbing Daily, Ep. 383}}
4. ^{{cite web|url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-LpZTk3zVM |title=Rock Trip 2016 in Bishop}}
5. ^{{web cite|url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-LpZTk3zVM|title=Monsterman SD|editor=youtube}}
6. ^{{web cite|url=http://www.up-climbing.com/en/boulder/news/8a-al-femminile---noguchi-e-matthes|title=Two female 8A – Noguchi and Matthes|editor=up-climbing.com|date=February 9, 2010|access-date=December 22, 2011}}
7. ^{{cite web|url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-LpZTk3zVM |title=Rock Trip 2016 in Bishop}}
8. ^{{Citation|last=udini|title=Factors Deciding Boulder Comps - the Art of Akiyo Noguchi|url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NS7ZdBS-jW0|access-date=2019-02-07}}
9. ^{{Citation|last=OnBouldering|title=A jaw-dropping move by Akiyo Noguchi {{!}} Sunday Sends|url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfdkpjvsPDM|access-date=2019-02-07}}
10. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.instagram.com/noguchi_akiyo/|title=NoguchiAkiyo / 野口啓代 / のぐちあきよ (@noguchi_akiyo) • Instagram photos and videos|website=www.instagram.com|language=en|access-date=2019-02-07}}
11. ^{{web cite|url=http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/component/ifsc/?view=athlete&id=6326|title=Noguchi's profile and rankings|editor=IFSC|date=July 20, 2017|access-date=July 20, 2017}}
[11]
}}

External links

{{Climber links
| website = http://akiyonoguchi.com
| ifsc = 6326
| 8a = 23316
| climbing =
| instagram = noguchi_akiyo
| facebook =
}}{{DEFAULTSORT:Noguchi, Akiyo}}

7 : 1989 births|Living people|Japanese rock climbers|Asian Games medalists in sport climbing|Sport climbers at the 2018 Asian Games|Asian Games gold medalists for Japan|Medalists at the 2018 Asian Games

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