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词条 Alex Megos
释义

  1. Notable ascents

      Redpointed routes    Onsighted routes    Boulder problems  

  2. Rankings

      Climbing World Cup    Climbing World Championships    Climbing European Championships[39]  

  3. Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

      Lead[39]  

  4. See also

  5. References

  6. External links

{{Infobox climber
| image = Action Directe 11 (9a), Foto Jorgos Megos.JPG
| image_size =
| caption = Megos on Action Directe in Frankenjura, 2014
| name = Alexander Megos
| nationality = German
| birth_date = {{birth date and age|1993|08|12|df=y}}
| birth_place = Erlangen, Germany
| death_date =
| death_place =
| residence =
| education =
| occupation = Professional rock climber
| height = 174 cm
| weight = 57 kg
| typeofclimber = Bouldering, Lead climbing
| highestgrade = {{Climbing grade|9b+}}
| highestredpoint = {{Climbing grade|9b+}}
| highestonsight = {{Climbing grade|9a}}
| highestflash =
| highestboulder = {{Boulder grade|8C}}
| knownfor = Being the first climber to onsight {{Climbing grade|9a}} and the third to redpoint {{Climbing grade|9b+}}
| firstascents =
| namedroutes =
| majorascents =
| worlds =
| medaltemplates =
| show-medals =
| website =
| updated = September 9, 2018
}}

Alexander Megos (born 12 August 1993) is a German rock climber. He was the first climber to ever on-sight (climb without prior practice or advice) a route graded {{Climbing grade|9a}}. He has climbed multiple notably hard routes and boulder problems, including one {{Climbing grade|9b+}} route (Perfecto Mundo), two {{Climbing grade|9b}} routes (First Round, First Minute and Fight Club), and some boulder problems with a confirmed {{Boulder grade|8C}} rating. Megos has won many international competitions, mainly in Youth or Junior category. In 2017, he won the silver medal in both the Bouldering European Championships, in Munich and the IFSC Lead World Cup in Kranj, Slovenia, also in 2018 he won bronze at the IFSC Lead World Cup in Chamonix, and one week later won Gold in the Briancon World Cup. Megos also has a background in the La Sportiva Legends competitions, since he has competed multiple times and placed 2nd and 3rd. He currently holds the high point of Black Diamond's The Project, widely considered one of the world's hardest indoor routes.

Notable ascents

Redpointed routes

{{Climbing grade|9b+}}
  • Perfecto Mundo - May 9, 2018 - First Ascent - Route bolted by Chris Sharma[1]
{{Climbing grade|9b}}
  • Fightclub - First Ascent.[2]
  • First Round First Minute - Third Ascent. First Ascent by Chris Sharma.[3]

9a+/b (5.15a/b)

  • Supernova - First Ascent.[3]
{{Climbing grade|9a+}}
  • Demencia Senil - First Ascent by Chris Sharma.[4]
  • La Rambla - Megos climbed it on his second try.[5]
  • Realization - First Ascent by Chris Sharma. Megos climbed it in one day, on his third try.[6]
  • Corona - Third Ascent.[5]
  • Classified - First Ascent.[5]
  • Modified - First Ascent.[7]
  • First Ley - Megos also sent a variation called La Ley Indignata 9a (5.14d), possible first ascent.[3]
  • Thor's Hammer - First Repeat. First Ascent by Adam Ondra.[8]
  • Geocache - First Ascent. Repeated by Adam Ondra.[9]
  • Becoming - First Ascent.[10]
  • Super Crackinette - First Ascent.[11]
  • Jaws 2 - Sent on third try.[12]
{{Climbing grade|9a}}
  • Action Directe - Megos sent this route in just two hours. Action Directe was the world's first 9a, and continues to be a benchmark for the grade.[13]
  • La Sensación del Bloque - March 2017 - FA of the first South American 9a in Valle de los Condores, Chile.
  • Dreamcatcher - Fourth Ascent. Climbed in one day, other previous ascents by Chris Sharma, Sean McColl and Ben Harnden took multiple days.[14]
  • Era Vella - Second Try. Subject to much controversy about whether it is 9a(14d) or 8c+(14c).[15]

Other Famous Ascents

  • Pure Imagination: 8c+ (5.14c). Flash.[16]
  • Fly: 8c (5.14b). Megos made the first free ascent of this twenty pitch big wall in Switzerland.[6]
  • Hubble: 8c+ (5.14c) - Megos became the first to climb both Action Directe and Hubble by sending Hubble in June of 2016.[17]

Onsighted routes

{{Climbing grade|9a}}
  • Estado Critico - World's first 9a onsight.[16]
  • TCT[18]
{{Climbing grade|8c+}}
  • Victimes del Passat[4]

Boulder problems

{{Boulder grade|8C / 8C+}}
  • Wheelchair - First Ascent. Although Megos suggested a 9a+ sport climbing grade because of its length, this Wheel of Life variation is not a sport climb. It is a long boulder problem, harder than Wheel of Life, and possibly worth a 8C+ (V16) rating.[13][19]
{{Boulder grade|8C}}
  • The Finnish Line - Summer 2017 - Second ascent of hard testpiece established by Nalle Hukkataival in the Rocklands bouldering area of South Africa. The grade is still controversial, but consensus seems to grow on {{Boulder grade|8C}}.[20]
  • Wheel of Life: - First Ascent by Dai Koyamada. Megos suggested a sport climbing grade of 9a (5.14d), but this not a sport climb. It is a long boulder problem, rated 8C.[19]
  • Lucid Dreaming - Third Ascent of Paul Robinson's boulder, originally graded 8C+ (V16).[3]
{{Boulder grade|8B+}}
  • Never Ending Story[6]
  • Bad Boys for Life - First Ascent.[6]
  • Montecore:[21]
  • Riot Act[21]
  • Double Demerit - First Repeat.[22]
  • Sky[23]
  • Trainspotting - First Ascent.[24]

Rankings

Climbing World Cup

Discipline200920102011201220132014201520162017
Lead 55 37 35 - - - - - 22
Bouldering - - - 73 - - - - 28
Speed - - - - - - - - -
Combined - - - - - - - - 38

Climbing World Championships

Youth[39]
Discipline2009
Youth A
2010
Youth A
Lead 82
Adult[39]
Discipline2018
Lead3

Climbing European Championships[39]

Discipline20102017
Lead 23 -
Bouldering -2
Speed - -

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead[39]

SeasonGoldSilverBronzeTotal
2017 1 1
2018 1 1
Total 1 1 0 2

See also

  • Notable first free ascents

References

1. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.instagram.com/p/BikRmNwH28F/|title=Alexander Megos on Instagram: "I'm incredibly relieved... Clipping the anchor of "Perfecto Mundo", my first 9b+"|website=Instagram|language=en|access-date=2018-05-09}}
2. ^{{Cite web|url=https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/alex-megos-establishes-fightclub-canadas-first-5-15/|title=Alex Megos Establishes Fightclub – Canada's First 5.15|date=16 August 2016|website=www.rockandice.com|access-date=18 August 2016}}
3. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/alex-megos-sends-first-round-first-minute-5-15b-and-more|title=Alex Megos Sends First Round, First Minute (5.15b) and More|website=www.rockandice.com|access-date=2016-05-07}}
4. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.climbing.com/news/alex-megos-5-15a-second-try/|title=Alex Megos: Super-Fast 5.15a|last=|first=|date=30 November 2015|website=Climbing|publisher=|access-date=5 May 2016}}
5. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/alex-megos-corona-515a|title=Alex Megos: Corona (5.15a) - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles|website=www.dpmclimbing.com|access-date=2016-05-07}}
6. ^{{Cite web|url=http://dmmclimbing.com/pro-team/alexander-megos/|title=Alexander Megos - Pro Team - DMM Climbing Equipment|last=http://sbx.me|first=Sbellcheck -|website=DMM Climbing Equipment. Innovative climbing gear, made in Wales.|language=en-US|access-date=2016-05-07}}
7. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.climbing.com/videos/video-alex-megos-climbs-modified-5-15a-in-frankenjura/|title=Video: Alex Megos Climbs Modified (5.15a) in Frankenjura|last=|first=|date=9 November 2015|website=Climbing|publisher=|access-date=5 May 2016}}
8. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/alex-megos-repeats-thor-s-hammer-5-15a-flatanger-cave|title=Alex Megos Repeats Thor’s Hammer (5.15a), Flatanger Cave|website=www.rockandice.com|access-date=2016-05-07}}
9. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/adam-ondra-repeats-geocache-5-15a-in-a-day|title=Adam Ondra Repeats Geocache (9a+/5.15a) in a Day|website=www.rockandice.com|access-date=2016-06-02}}
10. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.instagram.com/p/BL71wtujxHp/|title=Instagram photo by Alexander Megos • Oct 24, 2016 at 6:06am UTC|website=Instagram|access-date=2016-10-24}}
11. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.instagram.com/p/BLrauk4D8BT/|title=Instagram photo by Alexander Megos • Oct 17, 2016 at 9:02pm UTC|website=Instagram|access-date=2016-11-13}}
12. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.instagram.com/p/BaFotNkh5QO/|title=Instagram post by Alexander Megos • Oct 11, 2017 at 12:44am UTC|website=Instagram|language=en|access-date=2017-10-11}}
13. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/alex-megos-sends-action-directe-514d-two-hours|title=Alex Megos Sends Action Directe (5.14d) in Two Hours - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles|website=www.dpmclimbing.com|access-date=2016-05-07}}
14. ^{{Cite web|url=http://gripped.com/news/alex-megos-sends-dreamcatcher-5-14d-fourth-ascent|title=Alex Megos Sends Dreamcatcher 5.14d for Fourth Ascent|website=www.gripped.com|access-date=27 Aug 2016}}
15. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.instagram.com/p/BhuXOinHRnA/|title=Alexander Megos on Instagram: "Wooop! The ultra classic "Era Vella" went down yesterday on my second try. I checked it out first and then straight away did it. This one…"|website=Instagram|language=en|access-date=2018-04-18}}
16. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/worlds-first-9a-onsight|title=World's First 9a Onsight? - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles|website=www.dpmclimbing.com|access-date=2016-05-07}}
17. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70488|title=UK Climbing|last=Pohl|first=Bjorn|date=Jun 1, 2016|website=|publisher=|access-date=Jun 2, 2016}}
18. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/71104/tct_second_9a_onsight_by_alex_megos|title=TCT, second 9a onsight by Alex Megos|website=ukclimbing.com|access-date=2017-11-08}}
19. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/alex-megos-establishes-5-15a-link-up-in-austrailia-s-grampians|title=Alex Megos Establishes 5.15a Link-Up in Australia’s Grampians|website=www.rockandice.com|access-date=2016-05-07}}
20. ^{{Cite web|url=https://gripped.com/news/daniel-woods-sends-finnish-line-says-v15|title=Daniel Woods sends Finnish line says v15|website=gripped.com|access-date=2018-09-07}}
21. ^{{Cite web|url=http://gripped.com/video/alex-megos-v14/|title=Alex Megos on a V14 - Gripped Magazine|date=2014-11-26|website=Gripped Magazine|language=en-US|access-date=2016-05-07}}
22. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.epictv.com/video/climbing/alex-megos-makes-fast-work-double-demerit-v14/8b-epictv|title=Alex Megos Makes Fast Work Of 'Double Demerit' (V14/8B+) {{!}} EpicTV|website=www.epictv.com|access-date=2016-05-07}}
23. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/videos-alex-megos-climbing-ceuse-and-rocklands|title=Videos: Alex Megos Climbing in Ceuse and Rocklands - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles|website=www.dpmclimbing.com|access-date=2016-05-07}}
24. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.instagram.com/p/BMMipfgjdEC/|title=Instagram photo by Alexander Megos • Oct 30, 2016 at 5:46pm UTC|website=Instagram|access-date=2016-10-31}}
25. ^{{web cite|url=http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/component/ifsc/?view=athlete&id=9058|title=Megos's profile and rankings|editor=IFSC|date=July 20, 2017|access-date=July 20, 2017}}
[25]
}}

External links

{{Commonscat|Alexander Megos}}{{Climber links
| website =
| ifsc = 9058
| 8a =
| climbing = alexander-megos
| facebook = AlexanderMegosSportler
| instagram = alexandermegos
| twitter =
}}
  • {{Cite web|url=https://tenaya.net/en/alex-megos|title=Alexander Megos|publisher=Tenaya}}
  • {{Cite web|url=http://www.dmmclimbing.com/pro-team/alexander-megos/|title=Alexander Megos|publisher=DMMclimbing}}
  • {{Cite web|url=http://www.patagonia.com/eu/enGR/ambassadors/rock-climbing/alexander-megos/76575|title=Alexander Megos|publisher=Patagonia}}
  • {{Cite web|url=http://www.climbing.com/news/alex-megos-5-15a-second-try/|title=Megos 5.15a second try|publisher=climbing.com}}
  • {{Cite web|url=http://www.climbing.com/news/megos-sends-first-round-first-minute/|title=Megos sends First Round First Minute|publisher=climbing.com}}
  • {{Cite web|url=http://www.climbing.com/videos/video-alex-megos-climbs-modified-5-15a-in-frankenjura/|title=Megos climbs modified 5.15a in Frankenjura|publisher=climbing.com}}
  • {{Cite web|url=http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/worlds-first-9a-onsight|title=World's first 9a onsight |publisher=DPMclimbing}}
  • {{Cite web|url=http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/alex-megos-corona-515a|title=Megos Corona 5.15a|publisher=DPMclimbing}}
  • {{Cite web|url=http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/alex-megos-sends-action-directe-514d-two-hours|title=Megos sends Action Directe 5.14d in two hours|publisher=DPMclimbing}}
  • {{Cite web|url=http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/videos-alex-megos-climbing-ceuse-and-rocklands|title=Megos climbing in Ceuse and Rocklands (Videos)|publisher=DPMclimbing}}
  • {{Cite web|url=http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/alex-megos-sends-first-round-first-minute-5-15b-and-more|title=Megos sends First Round First Minute 5.15b and more|publisher=rockandice}}
  • {{Cite web|url=http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/alex-megos-establishes-5-15a-link-up-in-australia-s-grampians|title=Megos establishes 5.15a link up in Australia's Grampians|publisher=rockandice}}
  • {{Cite web|url=http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/alexander-megos-sends-frankenjuras-hardest|title=Megos sends frankenjura's hardest|publisher=rockandice}}
  • {{Cite web|url=http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/alex-megos-repeats-thor-s-hammer-5-15a-flatanger-cave|title=Megos repeats Thor's Hammer 5.15a Flatanger Cave|publisher=rockandice}}
  • {{Cite web|url=http://www.redbull.com/en/adventure/stories/1331711486232/alex-megos-lucid-dreaming-bishop-boulder|title=Megos |publisher=Redbull}}
  • {{Cite web|url=http://www.epictv.com/video/climbing/alex-megos-makes-fast-work-double-demerit-v14/8b-epictv|title=Megos makes fast work double demerit V14/8b|publisher=Epic TV}}
  • {{Cite web|url=http://gripped.com/video/alex-megos-v14/|title=Megos V14|publisher=Gripped}}
  • {{Cite web|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70488|title=Megos |publisher=UK CLimbing}}
{{DEFAULTSORT:Megos, Alex}}

3 : German rock climbers|Living people|1993 births

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