| 词条 | Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz |
| 释义 |
| image = Alison_Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz_on_Annapurna.jpg | caption = Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz on Annapurna between camps II and III. Photographed by Arlene Blum. | abovestyle = background:color; | above = Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz | headerstyle = background:color; | nationality = British | birth_date = 1942 | birth_place = Birmingham | death_date = {{death date|1978|10|17|df=yes}} | death_place = Annapurna | typeofclimber = Mountaineering }} Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz (1942–1978) was a British climber, mountaineer, painter and lithography teacher. She made the first ascent of Gasherbrum III and the first all female ascent of Gasherbrum II. Climbing careerAlison began climbing in Wales, England and the Alps, and was known for her early commitment to the alpine style making ascents of the North Pillar of Palü, the Triolet and Les Courtes. In the Tatras, Poland she climbed the eastern wall of the Mnich, the northern wall of Kazalnica Mięguszowiecka, and a winter ascent northern wall of Niżni Rysy and Mieguszowiecki Middle (first winter ascent).[1] In 1972, participating in the Polish expedition in Hindu Kush, she ascended Aspe Safed and Noshaq and was subsequently selected for the 1975 Polish Gasherbrum Expedition. She made the first ascent of Gasherbrum III (7952m) and the first female-only ascent of Gasherbrum II (8,035m),[2] also gaining the British height record for women. As a result, she was one of the first women to become a member of the Alpine Club.[3] Annapurna{{Main|American Women's Himalayan Expedition}}In 1978, she took part in the first women's expedition to Annapurna, where she was regarded as one of their best climbers. The expedition was fraught with problems, with multiple avalanches causing severe delays in their progress. She wrote to her husband "It's the most dangerous mountain I've been on".[4] During the expedition's second summit push, to the unclimbed second peak,[4] she and her climbing partner Vera Watson died as a result of a fall on an ice slope near camp V. Her body was found next to a crevasse a few days later.[5][6] A memorial fund, administered by the Mount Everest Foundation, was created in her memory. Its aim is "to provide grants to further British and Polish women's mountaineering in the world's greater ranges, ie: further afield than the Alps".[7] Personal lifeShe was married to Janusz Onyszkiewicz, her frequent climbing partner. Notable climbs
References1. ^{{cite web|url=https://www.outsideonline.com/2170021/annapurna-women|title=An Oral History of the First U.S.—and Female—Ascent of Annapurna|first=Katie|last=Ives|date=11 April 2017|publisher=Outside Online}} {{authority control}}{{DEFAULTSORT:Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz, Alison}}2. ^{{cite web|url=https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/38/8/women-on-annapurna/|title=Women on Annapurna |publisher=Himalayan Journal vol.38/8|website=www.himalayanclub.org}} 3. ^{{cite web|url=https://www.mountain-heritage.org/entity.php?ID=134 |title=Chadwick, Alison (died 1978) |accessdate=16 May 2018 |publisher=Mountain Heritage}} 4. ^1 {{cite web|url=https://www.independent.co.uk/news/obituaries/vera-komarkova-494148.html |publisher=The Independent |title=Vera Komarkova Obituary |accessdate=16 May 2018}} 5. ^{{cite web|url=http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197934700/print|title=Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz, 1942-4978|website=publications.americanalpineclub.org |publisher=American Alpine Club |accessdate=16 May 2018}} 6. ^{{cite web|url=http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197904500/American-Womens-Himalayan-Expedition-Annapurna-1 |title=American Women's Himalayan Expedition, Annapurna 1 |author=Vera Komarkova |year=1979 |publisher=American Alpine Club |accessdate=16 May 2018}} 7. ^{{cite web|url=https://www.thebmc.co.uk/alison-chadwick-award-for-women |title=Alison Chadwick award for women |author = Bill Ruthven |publisher=The British Mountaineering Council |accessdate=16 May 2018}} 6 : 1942 births|1978 deaths|British painters|Women painters|British mountain climbers|20th-century women artists |
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