| 词条 | Draft:Coco Chanel |
| 释义 |
Cearra-Ryan LeMay Professor Linda K. Ryder Arts 104 October 19, 2018 The Effects of Status and Ranking on Coco Chanel “The secret of Coco Chanel was not that her clothes were simple or even comfortable, but they made the rich look young and casual”( Lynch). Gabrielle “coco” Chanel was a big name designer who changed the fashion world for the better. Coco Chanel knew how to create looks that would work with any time period. Her designs will be known forever in the fashion industry. Chanel’s most know outfit was worn by first lady Jacqueline Kennedy on the day her husband was murder in front of her face. Coco Chanel designs her clothes to fit the upper class and advertised her brand towards people who had money and power in the world. Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel was born August 19 1883 to unwed parents in Saumer France. At the age of twelve her mother died and her father could not handle Gabrielle and her four sibling so he put them in an orphanage were she was taught how to sew. The nuns at the orphanage believed that sewing is a need to know as a women( Garelick). At the age of eighteen when she had to leave the orphanage she got a career as a singer in a club, she would sing one song called “Qui qu’a vu coco dans le trocadero” the song is where she got her famous name Coco (De La Haye). Chanel started her famous fashion line with the help from her friend Arthur Capel who was a millionaire entrepreneur. Auther lent Chanel the money to open her first shop to create her fashion line. She had to begin her fashion line with hats due to the fact that there was already a dress maker in the building, Paris laws only allowed one of each business in each buildings. Arthur Capel found her a new place where she could sell her designs along with her hats(De Lay Haye). At the beginning of World War I Chanel’s boutique brought in very wealthy Parsian’s to buy her clothing. This made Chanel become well known around the Paris fashion district ( De Lay Haye). The clothing she sold in her boutique was ready to wear so anyone in the size range could come in and buy the clothes already paired together. Her clothing line begin with making clothing for the working women since the men were at war the women had to take over in their place(“Following Suits”). In 1917 Chanel started the trend of short men on women, which caught on to and they started getting their cut the same way(Garelick). Chanel was a trend setter and her clothing line set up the basics for every other designer to come after her. Chanel set up a new kind of fashion that people before her have never seen before. The war helped women from outside the society come in and introduced them to a more expensive fashion line(Accessorizing the Body). Chanel was credited for designing the little black dress which is what she know for. The United States Vogue called the little black dress” Chanel ford-the frock that all the world will wear”( De La Haye). Chanel would wear her famous little black dress with a $75,000 string of pearls tha she would wear to show her wealth off(High Priestess of High Fashion). Chanel launched her first perfume named Chanel NO.5 in 1921, Chanel’s lucky number was five she thought is was only necessary to have it in her perfume (“Chanel”). Chanel closed her fashion line during the Second World War and only sold her perfumes(De Lay Haye). Chanel opened her doors back up after the War because she couldn’t let other designers such as Christian Dior take over what she started(Krick). She didn’t think Dior had the ability to fit women after the war. Chanel knew what women wanted after a war since she went through the first one with extreme success(Kirk). Her new line to compete with Dior did not reach Chanel’s standards. So she kept trying for three seasons until she came up with the famous Chanel suit for women . The Chanel suit was made of tweed ,which did not wrinkle and hugged the body(Following Suit). Along with the Chanel suit she reintroduced her handbags, jewelry and shoes(Kirk). In 1969 Coco Chanel had a Broadway play named after her and was the subject of the play. The lead role was the famous actress Katharine Hepburn(De Lay Haye). Chanel earn over two million dollars from doing work in Hollywood whcich gained her high status with the Women of the United states (De Lay Haye). Coco Chanel sadly passed away on January 10th 1971 in the Ritz Hotel in Paris at the age of 88( Garelick). She was preparing her 1971 summer collection(De Lay Haye). Her summer collection was still released in her honor. No one took over Chanel’s fashion line until 1981 when the current chief designer Karl Lagerfeld took over (Garelick). Chanel lived a full life and long life doing what she loved to do everyday creating new fashion trends for women to enjoy. “Social class is a system of multilayered hierarchy among people”( Medvedev). The whole idea of social class came from the philosopher Karl Marx( Medvedev).The defection of social class is a system where people are ranked on money and or jobs they have. Fashion is a way for people to show off their wealth (Dress and Social Identity). The social class was split up into two groups the people who own and people who produce items. The factors that have to do with social class is gender, race, ethnicity, religion ,nationally, and sexuality (Medvedev). The use of mass media has helped separate the wealthy and the not so wealthy(Dress and Social Identity). The use of magazines and celebrities to promote their fashion lines are gearing their ads towards the wealth. Also these ads make the less off wish they could have these items for themselves(Dress and Social Identity). The house of Chanel’s market policy was geared towards the high-end celebrities. Big name celebrities who promoted the brand Chanel were Marilyn Monroe and Jacqueline Kennedy(Garelick).Monroe promoted to Time magazine that she wore a few drops of Chanel NO.5 in bed(Garelick). Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis wore a pink Chanel suit on November 22 1963 the day her husband was killed right in front of her. This awful event brought attention to Chanel’s work(Following Suit). Chanel was a big name in the entertainment business. Chanel had her little black dress worn by Audrey Hepburn in the movie Breakfast at Tiffany’s. This dress was iconic and made people notice her work and wanted to buy her clothing( Garelick). Gabrielle Chanel’s goal for her company was to sell her clothes at a higher price to get the higher class to wear her clothes. Chanel did this so she knew that her company would make a huge profit off her items. Chanel turned everyday material into couture fashion for the rich and famous(“Chanel”). Chanel’s material she was making her clothing out of was not that expense most of the material was jersey which was cheap( Lynch). Chanel refused to pay her saleswomen and seamstress the allowed wage France had because Chanel wanted to keep the money to herself(De Lay Haye). She fired 300 of her employees who refused to stand with Chanel and her not paying the minimum amount wage(De Lay Haye). Chanel knew she would not keep making a big profit if she kept paying her workers the minimum amount that France required. Coco Chanel was the face of big name fashion for in Paris and all over Europe for most of her career. When the Second World War hit her name was not as big in Europe. She was becoming huge in the United States due to the fact her perfumes sold so well with the wealth people. Coco Chanel was the prime example of a designer who made her clothing and other items for the rich and famous. Chanel’s status and ranking was high up with all designers pass and present due to the fact she made clothes for the rich and famous and sold her clothing at a much higher price then her other fashion designers of the time. She also used the war to her advantage, she knew that women with money need to find a void with their husbands gone at work. The women took over the men’s jobs so they need to dress their part in their career. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel was a high-class fashion designer who came from absolutely nothing in the countryside of France, she turn her life completely around. Coco Chanel designs her clothing the way she would wear it. She knew what women of her time want and how they wanted to style it. Chanel’s fashion lines were not for everyone they were meant for a certain kind of women. The designs and accessories were made to fit a women with some money to their name. Coco Chanel was an amazing fashion designer who knew how to dress her clients. Work Cited Accessorizing the Body : Habits of Being I, edited by Cristina Giorcelli, and Paula Rabinowitz, University of Minnesota Press, 2011. ProQuest Ebook Central, https://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/hvcc-ebooks/detail.action?docID=776550 Amy de la Haye, Amy. "Chanel, Gabrielle (Coco)." The Berg Companion to Fashion. Ed. Valerie Steele. Oxford: Bloomsbury Academic, 2010. Bloomsbury Fashion Central. Web. 15 Oct. 2018. com.proxy.hvcc.edu:2443/products/berg-fashion-library/encyclopedia/the-berg- companion-to-fashion/chanel-gabrielle-coco>. “Chanel” https://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2005/chanel 5,May 2005 "Dress and Social Identity." The Clothed Body. Calefato, Patrizia. Oxford: Berg, 2004. 15–26. Dress, Body, Culture. Bloomsbury Fashion Central. Web. 16 Oct. 2018. “Following Suit (Suits for Women): A Stitch in Time.” Films Media Group, 2001, f od.infobase.com/PortalPlaylists.aspx?wID=102551&xtid=47995. Accessed 15 Garelick, Rhonda. Mademoiselle: Coco Chanel and the Pulse of History. 1st ed., Random House, 2015. “High Priestess of High Fashion: GABRIELLE CHANEL.” Time, Time Inc., 22 Aug. 1960, content.time.com/time/subscriber/article/0,33009,869848-1,00.html. Krick, Jessa. “Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel (1883–1971) and the House of Chanel.” In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–. http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/chnl/hd_chnl.htm (October 2004) Lynch, Annette, and Mitchell D. Strauss. "Style: The Endless Desire for a New Look." Changing Fashion: A Critical Introduction to Trend Analysis and Meaning. Oxford: Berg, 2007. 81–102. Dress, Body, Culture. Bloomsbury Fashion Central. Web. 15 Oct. 2018. Medvedev, Katalin. "Social Class and Clothing." The Berg Companion to Fashion. Ed. Valerie Steele. Oxford: Bloomsbury Academic, 2010. Bloomsbury Fashion Central. Web. 15 Oct. 2018. |
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