| 词条 | Draft:Painted Fabrics Limited |
| 释义 |
Painted Fabrics Painted FabricsPainted Fabrics was a charitable organisation officially founded in Sheffield in 1917 to enable British soldiers and sailors severely injured in the Great War to gain employment. The organisations’ motto was "Work Not Charity". Background and formationPainted Fabrics was established by four former art students from Sheffield Technical School of Art; Annie Bindon Carter, Dorothy Bindon Carter, Phyllis Lawton and Edith Jagger.[1] The quartet of women, having previously volunteered at Wharncliffe War Hospital, Sheffield throughout 1915-16. Their collective aim was to establish an organisation which would actively rehabilitate severely injured ex-servicemen through occupational therapy. [2][3] History1917-1923: Early yearsInitially, the company was called SAMSA (The Disabled Sailors and Soldiers Mutual Association) and the wares were traded under the name ‘Painted Fabrics’.[4] The company occupied a couple of small work rooms in an alley at West Bar, in the centre of Sheffield. In these tiny workshops the men produced a wide variety of items which included, gowns, shawls, scarves, lingerie, coats, curtains, table cloths, cushion covers, bed spreads and fancy bags. [5] The venture was publicly and financially supported by Earl Douglas Haig.[6] It was felt the organisation needed to expand and put on a professional footing, so a board of directors was formed for the first time. Annie Bindon Carter as principal administrator became both a company director and honorary secretary, Edith Jagger became principal designer.[7] 1923-1931: Norton Colony and patronagePainted Fabrics became a limited company in 1923.[8] The company was able to acquired the lease to a former army camp at Norton, on the south-west edge of Sheffield (today the area is now called Meadowhead). The old wooden huts became print and design workshops, many outbuildings were converted into homes for the men and their families. The ex-sevicemen hand-printed designs onto various fabrics, using a wide variety of printing techniques. The finished printed fabrics were then made up into a myriad of ‘Painted Fabrics products’. All the production was undertaken by the men themselves with a small team of advisers. Separately the wives and seamstresses from the local area turned the printed material into dresses, table cloths and curtains. A thriving community developed and it quickly became a self-sufficient ‘model village’, where employees also grew vegetables and kept animals. The men who worked at Painted Fabrics received a small statutory pension, which was topped up by a weekly wage of thirty shillings a week.[9] Princess Mary became Painted Fabrics’ royal patron after officially opening the Norton Colony in August 1925. Securing royal patronage was hugely beneficial to the organisation. Through Princess Marys’ influence, Painted Fabrics were able to stage exhibitions in several prestigious London locations including, Claridge’s in Mayfair[10][11][12]and Liberty’s department store on Regent Street. King George V and Queen Mary attended Painted Fabrics selling exhibitions in London and purchased their wares.[13] Several important exhibitions and fashion shows were also held in private London residences owned by the aristocracy.[14] Through royal patronage and wide spread national press coverage, sales flourish. These exhibitions and sales throughout the 1920's were maintained because the items were well manufactured and featured vibrant contemporary designs. Further substantial development occurred at Norton when the Douglas Haig Memorial Homes were opened in 1929. Painted Fabrics garments were exhibited in the British Empire Exhibition held in Buenos Aires, Argentina in 1931.[15][16] 1932-1939: Financial strugglesIn 1932 Painted Fabrics Limited employed 36 ex-servicemen and also supported their immediate families. For most of the decade Painted Fabrics struggled on a variety of fronts. The company suffered poor annual sales, receipts from key exhibition sales were drastically down. The company directors had failed to address two primary concerns. Firstly, they had not addressed the lack of investment in the fabric of the company’s buildings, many of the living quarters of the employees and their families were deemed a health risk.[17][18][19] Secondly, their products were perceived as rather staid, most of the designs had remained unchanged for many years. Their products were of inferior quality compared against those produced a decade earlier. Their earlier work, with its contemporaneous designs had caught the publics' imagination. The lack of a cohesive design policy and principal designer meant their products were deemed rather old fashioned. These problems were compounded by the fact that many of the original employees had either died or moved away. However, Painted Fabrics’ work was deemed important enough to be included in Herbert George Hayes Marshalls’ publication ‘British Textile Designers Today’ (1939).[20] At the outbreak of the Second World War, Painted Fabrics workshops were requisitioned by the War Office and production ceased. Many employees and their families were forced to move away from Sheffield. 1945-1959: Post-war establishmentAfter World War Two Painted Fabrics was re-established, though not to the same extent as its earlier incarnation. The general appetite for such charitable organisations had changed drastically. In post-war Britain the general public faced austerity with severe rationing and many former customers claimed they were suffering from 'war fatigue’ which, combined with a dramatic shift in fashion, typified by the ‘make do and mend’ ethos, meant Painted Fabrics wares were deemed ‘non essential’. The company continued for another decade, due solely to Annie Bindon Carter’s unflappable belief in Painted Fabrics original aims and objectives. The company was officially wound up in 1959,[21]holding its final sale at the Cutler’s Hall, Sheffield in 1958. [22] Legacy and influencePainted Fabrics did much to change the publics’ attitude and perceptions in Britain towards war disability. The organisation can be viewed today as a direct precursor to more contemporary charitable organisations, most notably ‘Help for Heroes’. The first re-appraisal of Painted Fabrics achievements occurred with 'Painted Fabrics - An Exhibition Celebrating the History of Painted Fabrics Ltd., 1915-1959' held at the Mappin Art Gallery, Sheffield in 1997.[23] In 2000, a blue plaque was unveiled on the former site of Painted Fabrics at Norton. Acknowledging Annie Bindon Carter’s central role within the company.[24] However, it does not acknowledge the other individuals who also drove the project forward during its tumultuous forty-two year history. Painted Fabrics wares including original designs and stencils were shown in two exhibitions, Printed Painted Fabrics, Weston Park Museum, Sheffield (2014) and Business and Benefaction: the colourful life of Sheffield artist Annie Bindon Carter, Weston Bank Library, The University of Sheffield (2016).[25] Painted Fabrics is the subject of a new play by the Worker's Educational Association (WEA) entitled 'Painters of Light and Shadow' (Sheffield University Drama Studio), December 2018. Edith Jagger’s life and work is the subject of a forthcoming publication, ‘The Art of the Jagger Family’ by Timothy Dickson (Spring 2019).[26] Notable peopleKey leaders and Royal patrons{{Create list|section}}Principal figures within the organisation included Annie Bindon Carter (co-founder, administrator, company director and honorary secretary) ; Dorothy Bindon Carter (co-founder, artist and designer) ; Phyllis Lawton (co-founder, artist) ; Edith Jagger (co-founder, artist and principal designer) ; Peter MacGregor (Chairman) ; Maud Lady Milton, Countess Fitzwilliam (Vice Patron, variously described as the ‘fairy godmother of Painted Fabrics’. She also was a member of company’s management committee) ; H.R.H. Mary, The Princess Royal (Patron) ; H.M. Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother (Patron) ; Captain Lionel Scott (sales manager) ; Dr. John Rothenstein (former Head of Sheffield City Art Galleries and Director of the Tate Gallery, London was on the advisory committee) ; Audrey Mabel Rose Sebag-Montefiore (wife of Lt.-Col. Eric Cecil Sebag-Montefiore purchased many items for her London residence) and Irene Clegg (company secretary during the 1930’s). Several members of the British Royal Family actively supported the organisation. Notable visits occurred on 8 August 1925 Mary, The Princess Royal (Viscountess Lascelles) who officially open the colony at Norton ; 23 August 1928 Mary, The Princess Royal (Viscountess Lascelles) ; 28 September 1929 Lady Dorothy Haig accompanied by Mary, The Princess Royal (Viscountess Lascelles) to officially open the Earl Haig Memorial Homes ; 25 February 1930 Earl Harewood ; 18 October 1930 Earl Jellicoe (Admiral of the Fleet) ; 30 November 1930 Prince George (Duke of Kent) ; 5 July 1934 Elizabeth (Bowes Lyon), The Duchess of York ; 5 July 1935 Edward, The Prince of Wales accompanied by Mary, The Princess Royal ; 21 October 1936. Prince George (The Duke of Kent) ; 7 December 1939. Mary, Princess Royal & Countess Fitzwilliam to officiate at the ‘Painted Fabrics Exhibition’, Grand Hotel, Sheffield ; 31 July 1946 Mary, The Princess Royal and 25 November 1949 Mary, The Princess Royal. Royal warrants were conferred on Painted Fabrics; The Prince of Wales (1936-38) and Queen Elizabeth, Consort of King George VI. Notable servicemen employees{{Create list|section}}{{importance|section|reason=List only employees that have Wikipedia pages}}Listed here are the original and long-standing British ex-servicemen employed by Painted Fabrics; A. Hardy (Royal Navy), A. Wildgoose (Yorkshire & Lancashire Regiment), G. Rosewarne (Yorkshire & Lancashire Regiment), W. Whitham (King’s Own Yorkshire Light Infantry), G. Goode (King’s Own Yorkshire Light Infantry), F. Poules (King’s Own Yorkshire Light Infantry), E. Shooter (Yorkshire & Lancashire Regiment), R. H. Vernon (8th Gloucester Regiment), S. A. Cooke (Yorkshire & Lancashire Regiment) and H. Simpson (Coldstream Guards). Exhibitions outside Sheffield{{Prose to list}}Painted Fabrics arranged numerous selling exhibitions across Britain. Principle exhibitions are as follows; The Assembly Rooms, York, March 1922[27], Liberty & Co., London, November 1924 [28], (unidentified venue) Canterbury, June 1928 [29], (unidentified venue) Newark, July 1928 [30], Imperial Institute, South Kensington, London, November 1928 [31], Shirer & Haddon, Cheltenham, October 1929 [32], Messrs. Bobby's, Exeter, February 1930 [33], St. John Ambulance Headquarters, Preston, June 1930 [34], Claridge's Hotel, London, June 1931 [35], Imperial Institute, South Kensington, London, November 1931 [36], Eastgate Court, Lincoln, September 1933 [37], Imperial Institute, South Kensington, London, November 1933 [38], (unidentified venue), Bawtry, November 1934 [39], Claridge's Hotel, London, July 1935 [40], Imperial Institute, South Kensington London, November 1935 [41], The Assembly Rooms, Rotherham Town Hall, November 1935 [42], Thornbridge Hall, Ashford, Derbyshire November 1936 [43], (unidentified venue), London, February 1937 [44], Claridge's Hotel, London, July 1937 [45], Imperial Institute, South Kensington London, November 1937 [46] and finally, Claridge's Hotel, London, July 1939 [47] References{{DEFAULTSORT:Painted Fabrics Limited}}Category:British charitable organisationCategory:Great War British charity |
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