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词条 Draft:Recycled wool
释义

  1. Terminology

  2. References

Recycled wool, rag wool or shoddy is any woollen textile or yarn made by shredding existing fabric and re-spinning the resulting fibres.

Shoddy was invented by Benjamin Law of Batley in 1813.[1] It was the dominant industry of a number of neighbouring towns in the West Riding of Yorkshire, known as the Heavy Woollen District, throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries.[2][2][3][4] Following its decline in the United Kingdom, the centre of the shoddy trade shifted to the city of Panipat in India.[5][6] Efforts have been made to revive the British recycled wool industry in recent years.[7]

Terminology

Historically, recycled wool products were called rag wool. Manufacturers distinguished between three main categories of rag wool:[8]

  • Shoddy – made from loosely woven or "soft" textiles that could be pulled apart relatively easily;
  • Mungo – made from "hard" fabrics such as felts, that were harder to disintegrate but resulted in a finer product;
  • Extract – made from the wool portion of cotton/wool blended fabrics.

In practice, few outside the industry were aware of these distinctions, even when rag wool was widely used.[8][9] The common name was shoddy, which subsequently became a generalised term for poor quality goods.[8] It is still used as a technical term for recycled wool within the industry.

Regulators in the United States make a distinction between reprocessed wool, which is made from manufactured wool products that were never used by the consumer, and reused wool, which has been used by the consumer.[10] Other bodies refer to these as pre-consumer and post-consumer waste material.[11]

References

1. ^{{Cite book|url=http://archive.org/details/historyshoddytr00jubbgoog|title=The History of the Shoddy-trade: Its Rise, Progress, and Present Position|last=Samuel Jubb|date=1860|publisher=Houlston and Wright|others=University of Michigan|language=English}}
2. ^{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.dk/books?id=5zuz1O78drsC&source=gbs_navlinks_s|title=The Genesis of Industrial Capital: A Study of West Riding Wool Textile Industry, C.1750-1850|last=Hudson|first=Pat|date=2002-04-11|publisher=Cambridge University Press|isbn=9780521890892|language=en}}
3. ^{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.dk/books?id=2PmADwAAQBAJ&pg=PT86|title=Revival: The Woollen and Worsted Industries (1907)|last=Clapham|first=J. H.|date=2018-12-20|publisher=Routledge|isbn=9781351342483|language=en}}
4. ^{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.dk/books?id=29QFBAAAQBAJ&pg=PA202|title=An Environmental History of Britain since the Industrial Revolution|last=Clapp|first=B. W.|date=2014-07-15|publisher=Routledge|isbn=9781317893035|language=en}}
5. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.economist.com/business/2017/09/07/panipat-the-global-centre-for-recycling-textiles-is-fading|title=Panipat, the global centre for recycling textiles, is fading|date=2017-09-07|work=The Economist|access-date=2019-03-24|issn=0013-0613}}
6. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.hindustantimes.com/more-lifestyle/in-panipat-the-world-s-castoff-capital-business-hangs-by-a-thread/story-CAnh2kH4DhB3SWrwqwGFpL.html|title=In Panipat, the world’s ‘castoff capital’, business hangs by a thread|date=2018-04-28|website=https://www.hindustantimes.com/|language=en|access-date=2019-03-24}}
7. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.endsreport.com/article/1561567/evergreen-shoddy-manufacture-textile-recycling|title=Evergreen: From shoddy manufacture to textile recycling|last=|first=|date=|website=ENDS Report|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|access-date=2019-03-24}}
8. ^{{Cite thesis|last=Malin|first=John Christopher|title=The West Riding recovered wool industry, ca. 1813–1939|date=1979|degree=PhD|publisher=University of York|url=http://etheses.whiterose.ac.uk/14148/|doi=}}
9. ^{{Cite journal|last=|first=|date=8 April 1871|title=A City of Honest Imposture|url=http://www.maggieblanck.com/Land/Shoddy.html|journal=All the Year Round|volume=5|issue=25|pages=441|via=}}
10. ^Robert E. Freer. [https://www.ftc.gov/system/files/documents/public_statements/674191/194607_freer_the_wool_products_labeling_act_of_1939.pdf "The Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939."] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160605081144/https://www.ftc.gov/system/files/documents/public_statements/674191/194607_freer_the_wool_products_labeling_act_of_1939.pdf|date=2016-06-05}} Temple Law Quarterly. 20.1 (July 1946). p. 47. Reprinted at ftc.gov. Retrieved 1 May 2016.
11. ^{{Cite web|url=https://europeanoutdoorgroup.com/outreach/csr-sustainability/public-resources/recycled-wool-primer-newcomers-rediscoverers/|title=Recycled Wool: A Primer for Newcomers & Rediscoverers|last=|first=|date=13 April 2018|website=|publisher=European Outdoor Group|language=en|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|access-date=2019-03-24}}
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