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词条 Florence Hartley
释义

  1. Biography

  2. Etiquette

      Response    Nineteenth century    Twentieth and twenty-first centuries  

  3. Needlework

  4. Women's health

  5. Works

  6. References

Florence Hartley was a Victorian-era writer whose work was meant for women of the era, covering topics of etiquette and needlework. She was also an advocate for women's health.

Biography

Florence Hartley never married. Little else is known about her life, and the place and date of her birth and death are unknown.{{r|Donawerth-2012|p=65–68}}

Etiquette

Rhetoric theorist Jane Donawerth identifies Hartley's The Ladies’ Book of Etiquette{{r|Hartley-1860}} as part of a distinctive self-consciously feminine discursive tradition of conduct book rhetoric, developed in the 18th and 19th centuries.{{r|Donawerth-2012|p=41–42}}{{r|Donawerth-2013|p=84}} Donawerth sees Hartley's work as marking the conservative end of the spectrum of works within this tradition, merging the conduct book tradition with the narrower tradition of the etiquette manual.{{r|Donawerth-2012|p=65–66}}{{r|Donawerth-2013|p=83}} Hartley sees good elocution as natural, not as an art, and avoids the use of the word elocution; she discourages women from speaking in such a way as to draw attention to themselves,{{r|Donawerth-2013|p=84}} or asking professional men (such as physicians, attorneys, artists, merchants, or mechanics) about the subject matter of their work.{{r|Johnson-2002|p=66}} Hartley admonishes women never to phrase what they say as assertions of fact, only as declarations of their own opinions.{{r|Johnson-2002|p=66}} She argues for women's education principally on the ground that it enables women to be better companions.{{r|Donawerth-2012|p=66}} Donawerth characterizes Hartley's etiquette as grounded in a profoundly conservative worldview based on wealth and social class.{{r|Donawerth-2012|p=66}} Hartley herself sees her etiquette as a logical extension of Christian ethics, specifically, the Golden Rule.{{r|Szczesiul-2017|p=57}}

Hartley's approach to etiquette strongly emphasized its role in hospitality. Of the 26 chapters in The Ladies’ Book of Etiquette,{{r|Hartley-1860}} ten are devoted to the etiquette of the roles of guest or hostess.{{r|Szczesiul-2017|p=57}} Hartley also placed great emphasis on the etiquette of letter writing.{{r|Johnson-2002|p=91–93}}

Response

Nineteenth century

During Hartley's time, her work received favorable reviews, such as this one referring to The Ladies’ Book of Etiquette, and Manual of Politeness:{{r|Hartley-1860}}

{{Quote
|text = We should despair of any young lady who, having read this volume attentively, was not sufficiently polished to enter the very best society.
|source = The Crayon (November 1860){{r|Crayon-1860-11}}
}}

Twentieth and twenty-first centuries

Present-day reception of Hartley's work has been mixed. Journalist Tanya Sweeney describes The Ladies’ Book of Etiquette as the "definitive tome" of 19th-century etiquette.{{r|Sweeney-2014-12-09}} According to journalist Jessica Leigh Hester, Hartley's 19th-century etiquette advice can still be instructive in the 21st century, particularly in regard to RSVPs, tasteful dress, avoidance of gossip in places where it can easily be overheard, and loud amateur music at parties.{{r|Hester-2015-12-02}} On the other hand, food and travel writer Anna Brones ridicules Hartley's dictum that a good hostess should not discuss, or even notice, what her guests are eating.{{r|Brones-2014-12-18}} Historian C. Dallett Hemphill sees Hartley's conservative approach to etiquette as having "nativist or racist roots".{{r|Hemphill-1999|p=141}}

Donawerth notes that Hartley never acknowledges the etiquette writers before her. When Hartley tells readers that

politeness is as necessary to a happy intercourse with the inhabitants of the kitchen, as with those of the parlour; it lessens the pains of service, promotes kind feelings on both sides, and checks unbecoming familiarity{{r|Hartley-1860}}

she is directly quoting Eliza Ware Farrar's The Young Lady's Friend{{r|Farrar-1838}} without credit.{{r|Donawerth-2012|p=66}}

Needlework

Hartley's Ladies’ Hand Book of Fancy and Ornamental Work offered instruction in a wide variety of types of needlework, including sewing, knitting, and quilting.{{r|Hartley-1859}}{{r|Shrock-2004|p=136}} Just as with etiquette, Hartley saw skill in needlework as essential to a lady's education, with implications for her overall happiness and for her usefulness to, and acceptance within, society.{{r|Woodard-and-Greenstein-1993|p=10}}

Women's health

Hartley was an advocate of more healthful practices for women, and a critic of social customs that she saw as jeopardizing women's health.{{r|Wagner-1997|p=176}} Despite the conservatism of her general approach to etiquette, Hartley denounced the corset, which some other early women writers on etiquette defended.{{r|Donawerth-2013|p=82–83}} She saw young women of her day as less healthy than their mothers and grandmothers. Hartley warned young women against the practice of staying late at dance balls, so that they would not be utterly exhausted when they left, and would not miss breakfast the next morning. She advocated walking 4–5 miles per day for vigorous young women, as an alternative to dancing in overheated ballrooms.{{r|Wagner-1997|p=176}}

Works

  • The Ladies’ Hand Book of Fancy and Ornamental Work (1859){{r|Hartley-1859}}
  • The Ladies’ Book of Etiquette, and Manual of Politeness (1860){{r|Donawerth-2012|p=65–68}}{{r|Hartley-1860}}{{r|Hester-2015-12-02}}

References

1. ^{{cite journal | date = November 1860 | title = Review of The Gentleman’s Book of Etiquette: and Manual of Politeness, by Cecil B. Hartley (Philadelphia: G. G. Evans) | journal = The Crayon | department = Literary Record | volume = 7 | number = 11 | pages = 330 | language = en | jstor = 25528144 | jstor-access = free | doi = 10.2307/25528144 | doi-access = free}}
2. ^{{cite book | url = https://books.google.com/books?id=S72HTPDnWLQC&pg=PA83&dq=%22Florence+Hartley%22&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiCw7-s3tnXAhVX-mMKHVXpCtA4ChDoAQhDMAU#v=onepage&q=%22Florence%20Hartley%22&f=false | last = Donawerth | first = Jane | date = 2013 | chapter = Negotiating conflicting views of women and elocution: Almira Hart Lincoln Phelps, Florence Hartley, and Marietta Holley | editor-last = Gold | editor-first = David | editor-last2 = Hobbs | editor-first2 = Catherine L. | title = Rhetoric, history, and women’s oratorical education: American women learn to speak | publisher = Routledge | location = New York | language = en | isbn = 978-0-415-66105-8 | pages = 78–95}}
3. ^{{cite book | url = https://books.google.com/books?id=tnJDsvvGDmEC&printsec=frontcover#v=onepage&q&f=false | last = Donawerth | first = Jane | date = 2012 | title = Conversational rhetoric: the rise and fall of a women’s tradition, 1600–1900 | publisher = Southern Illinois University Press | location = Carbondale, Illinois, USA | language = en | isbn = 978-0809386307}}
4. ^{{cite book | url = https://archive.org/details/youngladysfriend00farr | last = Farrar | first = Eliza Ware | author-link = Eliza Ware Farrar | date = 1838 | title = The young lady’s friend | publisher = American Stationers’ Company | location = Boston | language = en | via = Internet Archive}}
5. ^{{cite book | url = https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=caia.ark:/13960/t7zk6g82w;view=1up;seq=10 | last = Hartley | first = Florence | date = 1859 | title = The ladies’ hand book of fancy and ornamental work, comprising directions and patterns for working in appliqué, bead work, braiding, canvas work, knitting, netting, tatting, worsted work, quilting, patchwork, &c., &c. | publisher = J. W. Bradley | location = Philadelphia | language = en | via = HathiTrust}}
6. ^{{cite book | url = https://archive.org/details/ladiesbookofetiq00hartuoft | last = Hartley | first = Florence | date = 1860 | title = The ladies’ book of etiquette, and manual of politeness: a complete hand book for the use of the lady in polite society | publisher = G. W. Cottrell | location = Boston | language = en | via = Internet Archive}}
7. ^{{cite book | url = https://books.google.com/books?id=IQlkQZ9PhL0C&pg=PA266&dq=%22Florence+Hartley%22&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwivocDv3tnXAhUQ9mMKHSOSBrM4FBDoAQg9MAQ#v=onepage&q&f=false | last = Hemphill | first = C. Dallett | date = 1999 | title = Bowing to necessities: a history of manners in America, 1620–1860 | publisher = Oxford University Press | language = en | isbn = 0-19-512557-6}}
8. ^{{cite journal | url = https://www.citylab.com/life/2015/12/19th-century-party-etiquette-updated-for-2015-festivities/418335/ | last = Hester | first = Jessica Leigh | date = 2 December 2015 | title = 19th century party etiquette updated for 2015 festivities | website = CityLab | language = en | access-date = 2017-11-25 | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20171125083738/https://www.citylab.com/life/2015/12/19th-century-party-etiquette-updated-for-2015-festivities/418335/ | dead-url = no | archive-date = 2017-11-25}}
9. ^{{cite book | url = https://books.google.com/books?id=yKG1pvT0baIC&pg=PA66&dq=%22Florence+Hartley%22&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwivocDv3tnXAhUQ9mMKHSOSBrM4FBDoAQhcMAk | last = Johnson | first = Nan | date = 2002 | title = Gender and rhetorical space in American life, 1866–1910 | publisher = Southern Illinois University Press | location = Carbondale, Illinois, USA | language = en | isbn = 0-8093-2426-1}}
10. ^{{cite book | url = https://books.google.com/books?id=l3eym0t6snYC&pg=PA136&dq=%22Florence+Hartley%22+sewing+knitting&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi6hNTK39nXAhVKz2MKHSuyCgYQ6AEISzAG#v=onepage&q&f=false | last = Shrock | first = Joel | date = 2004 | title = The Gilded Age | series = American Popular Culture Through History | publisher = Greenwood Press | location = Westport, Connecticut, USA | language = en | isbn = 0-313-32204-X}}
11. ^{{cite journal | url = https://www.herald.ie/lifestyle/why-good-manners-really-can-make-the-world-a-better-place-30812663.html | last = Sweeney | first = Tanya | date = 9 December 2014 | title = Why good manners really can make the world a better place | website = Herald (Ireland) | department = Lifestyle | language = en | access-date = 2017-11-25 | archive-url = | dead-url = no | archive-date = }}
12. ^{{cite book | url = https://books.google.com/books?id=AtckDwAAQBAJ&pg=PA57&dq=%22Florence+Hartley%22&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwivocDv3tnXAhUQ9mMKHSOSBrM4FBDoAQhJMAY#v=onepage&q&f=false | last = Szczesiul | first = Anthony | date = 2017 | title = The Southern hospitality myth: ethics, politics, race, and American memory | publisher = University of Georgia Press | location = Athens, Georgia, USA | language = en | isbn = 978-0820332765}}
13. ^{{cite book | url = https://books.google.com/books?id=rFoL-gDE6GcC&pg=PA176&dq=%22Florence+Hartley%22&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwivocDv3tnXAhUQ9mMKHSOSBrM4FBDoAQhDMAU#v=onepage&q=%22Florence%20Hartley%22&f=false | last = Wagner | first = Ann Louise | date = 1997 | title = Adversaries of dance: from the Puritans to the present | publisher = University of Illinois Press | location = Urbana, Illinois, USA | language = en | isbn = 0-252-02274-2}}
14. ^{{cite book | url = https://books.google.com/books?id=Jjjnyw-RKiYC&pg=PA10&dq=%22Florence+Hartley%22+sewing+knitting&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi6hNTK39nXAhVKz2MKHSuyCgYQ6AEIPjAE#v=onepage&q&f=false | last = Woodard | first = Thos. K. | last2 = Blanche | first2 = Greenstein | date = 1993 | orig-year = First published 1981 as Crib quilts and other small wonders by E. F. Dutton | title = Classic crib quilts and how to make them | edition = Abridged Dover republication | publisher = Dover Publications | location = Mineola, New York, USA | language = en | isbn = 0-486-27861-1}}
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5 : Etiquette writers|Gender studies|Rhetoric|Women's health|Women's studies
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