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词条 La Dura Dura
释义

  1. The Climb

  2. References

{{Italic title}}{{Infobox climbing route
| name = La Dura Dura
| photo =
| photo_caption =
| location = Oliana, Spain
| coords = {{Coord|42|04|40|N|1|17|16|E|type:mountain_region:EU}} [1]
| climbing_area = Oliana
| route_type = Sport climbing
| vertical_gain = {{Convert|50|m|ft}} [2]
| pitches = 1
| grade = 9b+
| ffa = Adam Ondra 2013
}}La Dura Dura ("The hardest of the hard") is the world's second sport climb graded at 9b+ (5.15c), and the first to be repeated. Located on a limestone cliff in Oliana, Spain, it was first bolted by Chris Sharma in 2009 and redpointed by Adam Ondra on February 7, 2013. Sharma succeeded about a month later on March 23, 2013 and confirmed the grade.[3]

The climb is notable for the friendly rivalry that it provoked between Ondra and Sharma, with Sharma (then 31) established as the strongest sport climber in the world, and Ondra (20) seen as the first of a new generation.[4] By the time Sharma introduced Ondra to the climb he doubted that he would ever complete it himself, and also knew that Ondra was likewise searching for routes of extreme difficulty to challenge himself. They worked the route together for around a year and a half, with Ondra succeeding in February 2013, and Sharma stating that he found himself inspired by Ondra's intense focus, succeeding about a month later.[5]

The Climb

Ondra describes the climb as consisting of three sections:

  • A crimpy lower sequence of boulders (V9, V9, V12, V11) over 10m
  • A hard middle section with a kneebar break (5.14c) over 10m
  • An easier upper section (5.13d) to the top over 20m [6]

References

1. ^{{cite web|url=https://climbingaway.fr/en/climbing-areas/oliana |title=Climbing Areas - Oliana|publisher=Climbing Away |access-date=March 14, 2018}}
2. ^{{cite web|url=https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/spain/lleida-area/route/260107860 |title=Oliana|publisher=TheCrag |access-date=March 14, 2018}}
3. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/chris-sharma-the-la-dura-dura-interview.html |publisher=Planet Mountain |title=Chris Sharma, the La Dura Dura interview |access-date=March 14, 2018}}
4. ^{{cite web|url=https://www.redbull.tv/video/AP-1N4VM51BW1W11/la-dura-dura |publisher=Reel Rock S1E1 |title=La Dura Dura |access-date=March 14, 2018}}
5. ^{{cite web|url=http://rockandice.com/features/perfect-play-what-it-took-to-climb-la-dura-dura-5-15c-the-worlds-hardest-route/ |title=Perfect Play: What it took to climb La Dura Dura (5.15c) - The World's Hardest Route |author=Andrew Bisharat |publisher=Rock and Ice |access-date=March 14, 2018}}
6. ^{{cite web|url=https://www.climbing.com/news/ondra-puts-down-la-dura-dura-5-15c/ |title=Ondra Talks About La Dura Dura (5.15c)|publisher=Climbing.com|author=Amanda Fox |access-date=March 14, 2018}}
{{Climbing-stub}}

1 : Climbing routes

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