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词条 Larry LeGaspi
释义

  1. Early Years and Career

  2. Influence

  3. Personal Life

  4. References

  5. Bibliography

  6. External Links

Larry LeGaspi (June 25, 1950 – April 26, 2001) was an American fashion designer best known for creating signature designs worn by Labelle, Kiss, Grace Jones, George Clinton and Funkadelic, Divine, and other notables in the 1970s and 1980s.[1] [2]

Early Years and Career

Legaspi was born in Lakewood, New Jersey and attended the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City. He subsequently opened his own studio and boutique, Moonstone, where he sold his Art Deco-inspired futuristic styles in a space decorated with a moon and stars motif.[3][4][5]

By 1972 he had started designing costumes for the members of Labelle, whom he had met after one of their concerts in New York. He created distinct variations of what he described as his "futuristic concept" for each singer,[6] replete with metallic designs expressing his belief that 1970s fashion would soon embrace a "Space Deco" style resonant with 1930s motifs.[7] LeGaspi's designs would go on to have an extensive influence on 1970s music industry costume design and popular culture, most notably in his creation of the costumes worn by the band Kiss.[2][8] Within the fashion industry the mass market popularity of futuristic designs following Star Wars and the rise of disco was seen as a fulfillment of LeGaspi's vision earlier in the decade.[6][4][9]

LeGaspi also created costume designs for theater and club performances, such as the costumes for Divine's play "Pork" and Grace Jones' designs in her 1970s nightclub act.[10][11][12] LeGaspi's work on the stage was seen by Afro-futurist musician George Clinton, who recounted to Vogue that "I watched a lot of these plays, and when we first did the Mothership Connection album in 1975, I knew that I had to get the costuming from Larry LeGaspi, who was a famous costume designer for Broadway and bands like Kiss and Labelle.”[13] Together with his iconic designs for Labelle, Kiss, and Clinton, his work for the stage and social events embodied a range of elements that presaged later developments in mainstream fashion design, including a blend of metallic futurism with black-leather primalism, the integration of electronic technology, designs that could transform into different looks, the use of flamboyant costume elements in personal dress, and stylized androgyny.[10][14]

Influence

Fashion designer Rick Owens attributes LeGaspi's work as the inspiration for his own career and celebrated LeGaspi in his Fall/Winter 2019 "Larry" menswear collection, shown in February 2019.[15][16][17] According to Owens, LeGaspi's importance in fashion and culture stems from his creation of the silver-and-black 1970s' style combining Art Deco, sci-fi, black soul culture, and sexuality, a subversive sensibility that LeGaspi's work for musicians such as LaBelle and Kiss took to mainstream middle America.[14] In addition to his LeGaspi-inspired collection, Owens has also written a book on LeGaspi that will be published by Rizzoli and is scheduled for release in October 2019.[8][18]

Personal Life

LeGaspi was married to Valerie Arnoff. He was friends with Divine and part of the group of friends known as Divine's "New York family." [19]

LeGaspi died in 2001 from AIDS. In reviewing Owens' Larry collection, The New York Times' culture and style critic Guy Trebay described the homage to LeGaspi, who "exercised an outsize influence on pop culture" but was unduly overlooked in recent years, as a powerful reminder of the entire generation of designers lost due to the disease but deserving of contemporary recognition.[8]

References

1. ^{{Cite news|url=|title=Obituaries for April 28, 2001|last=|first=|date=April 28, 2001|work=Asheville Citizen-Times|access-date=|publication-date=April 28, 2001|page=B4}}
2. ^{{Cite book|title=Getting It On: The Clothing of Rock 'n' Roll|last=Jones|first=Mablen|publisher=Abbeville Press|year=1987|isbn=0-89659-686-9|location=New York, NY|pages=26-29}}
3. ^{{Cite web|url=http://sparklearmy.com/blog/?p=535|title=Larry LeGaspi|access-date=2019-01-19}}
4. ^{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/title/disco-chic-all-the-styles-steps-and-places-to-go/oclc/5126210&referer=brief_results|title=Disco chic: all the styles, steps, and places to go|last=Sherratt|first=Brian|last2=Leong|first2=Nalani M|date=1979|publisher=Harmony Books|isbn=9780517539613|location=New York|language=English}}
5. ^{{Cite news|url=|title=Big Apple Serves Up a Slice of Boutiques|last=|first=|date=November 21, 1977|work=Chicago Tribune|access-date=|page=B9}}
6. ^{{Cite news|url=|title=Fashion Rtw: Future Fashion|last=|first=|date=July 21, 1977|work=WWD|access-date=|issue=14|publication-place=New York|volume=135|page=17}}
7. ^{{Cite book|url=http://rbdigital.oneclickdigital.com/|title=Cheap chic: hundreds of money-saving hints to create your own great look|last=Milinaire|first=Caterine|last2=Gunn|first2=Tim|last3=Troy|first3=Carol|date=2015|publisher=Three Rivers Press|year=|isbn=9781101904558|location=New York|publication-date=|pages=|language=English}}
8. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2019/01/18/fashion/rick-owens-paris-mens-fall-2019.html|title=Rick Owens Offers Respect|last=Trebay|first=Guy|date=2019-01-18|work=The New York Times|access-date=2019-01-19|language=en-US|issn=0362-4331}}
9. ^{{Cite news|url=|title=Love That Flash Gordon Stuff|last=Grossman|first=Ellie|date=April 25, 1979|work=Santa Maria Times|access-date=|agency=Newspaper Enterprise Association (NEA)|page=13}}
10. ^{{Cite book|title=Getting It On: The Clothing of Rock 'n' Roll|last=Jones|first=Mablen|publisher=Abbeville Press|year=1987|isbn=0-89659-686-9|location=New York, NY|pages=151}}
11. ^{{Cite news|url=|title=Shows Out of Town - Billy Hill|last=|first=|date=December 5, 1973|work=Variety|access-date=|page=59}}
12. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.rickowens.eu/en/US/interviews/plaza-magazine|title=PLAZA MAGAZINE|website=www.rickowens.eu|access-date=2019-01-19}}
13. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/george-clinton-adidas-originals-sneakersnstuff-yung-1-prince|title=George Clinton on Jumping Out of Spaceships in 9-Inch Heels and That Time He Called Out Prince|website=Vogue|language=en|access-date=2019-01-19}}
14. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-menswear/rick-owens|title=Rick Owens Fall 2019 Menswear Fashion Show|website=Vogue|language=en|access-date=2019-01-19}}
15. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/fashion-show-review/rick-owenss-vibrant-elegy|title=Rick Owens's Vibrant Elegy|date=2019-01-18|website=The Business of Fashion|language=en-GB|access-date=2019-01-19}}
16. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/42941/1/rick-owens-autumn-winter-aw19-paris-fashion-week-menswear-kiss-larry-legaspi|title=Rick Owens does sleazy glam rock for AW19|last=Dazed|date=2019-01-17|website=Dazed|language=en|access-date=2019-01-19}}
17. ^{{Cite web|url=https://wwd.com/runway/mens-fall-collections-2019/paris/rick-owens/review/|title=Rick Owens Men’s Fall 2019|last=Foreman|first=Katya|last2=Foreman|first2=Katya|date=2019-01-17|website=WWD|language=en|access-date=2019-01-19}}
18. ^{{Cite web|url=https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/mbzq5b/rick-owens-autumn-winter-19-paris-menswear-review|title=rick owens honours the glam-rock glory of lust and vice|last=Salter|first=Steve|last2=Petty|first2=Felix|date=2019-01-18|website=I-D|language=en-UK|access-date=2019-01-19}}
19. ^{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/title/my-son-divine/oclc/47136476|title=My son Divine|last=Milstead|first=Frances|last2=Heffernan|first2=Kevin|last3=Yeager|first3=Steve|date=2001|publisher=Alyson Books|year=|isbn=9781555835941|location=Los Angeles, Calif.|pages=96-7|language=English}}

Bibliography

  • Allison Janae Hamilton, "Black Marvelous: An Examination of the Carnivalesque in African American Visual Culture," Ph.D. dissertation, New York University (2015).
  • Diana L. Mankowski, "Gendering the Disco Inferno: Sexual Revolution, Liberation, and Popular Culture in 1970s America," Ph.D. dissertation, University of Michigan (2010).
  • Francesca T. Royster, "Labelle, Funk, and the Politics of Flight and Fight," American Studies, 52:4 (2013), 77-98.
  • Mark Redondo Villegas, "Savage Vernacular: Performing Race, Memory, and Hip Hop in Filipino America," Ph.D. dissertation, University of California-Irvine (2015).

External Links

  • [https://twitter.com/gofreemoonstone Larry LeGaspi Archive - Twitter]
  • [https://www.instagram.com/gofreemoonstone/ Larry LeGaspi Archive - Instagram]
  • [https://www.rickowens.eu/en/IT/collections/men-larry-fw19 Rick Owens' FW19 "Larry" Collection]
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9 : 1950 births|2001 deaths|American fashion designers|People from Lakewood Township, New Jersey|AIDS-related deaths in New Jersey|Fashion Institute of Technology alumni|Costume designers|Afrofuturism|LGBT fashion designers

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