| 词条 | Luvanis | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 释义 |
| logo = Luvanis_logo.png | industry = Luxury Goods | founded = 11 February 2009 | hq_location = Luxembourg City, Luxembourg | key_people = Arnaud de Lummen, Managing director Guy de Lummen, Board member Carlo Schneider, Board member Pierre Mallevays, Board member | brands = Charles James Finnigans Mainbocher Maquet Vever | website = {{URL|http://www.luvanis.com/|Luvanis.com}} }} HistoryLuvanis was founded in 2009 by Guy de Lummen and his son Arnaud de Lummen,[4] after the two revived French couture house Vionnet.[5][6] In 2007, the father-and-son duo reintroduced the first Vionnet clothing line since 1939, with Sophia Kokosalaki as creative director and Barneys New York as exclusive distributor.[7] After the initial reboot,[8] Arnaud and Guy de Lummen sold Vionnet to Italian entrepreneurs Matteo Marzotto, former CEO of Valentino, and Gianni Castiglioni, CEO and owner of Marni.[9] Building on their experience, the de Lummens incorporated Luvanis, a pioneering incubator of dormant heritage brands,[1] focused on identifying and acquiring the rights to forgotten brand gems[10] in order to reposition them and find partners or investors to fund their relaunch.[11] According to experts, the business model strikes a balance between reasserting the brands’ heritage,[12] and writing new, more modern codes for today.[13] Over the years, Luvanis has constituted a rare portfolio of long-dormant ‘sleeping beauty’ brands composed of former luxury houses in fashion, shoes, leather goods, jewelry, perfume, and champagne, which had enjoyed decades of success before closing doors.[14] Brands selected will typically have received great recognition[15] both in their prime (prizes at World's fairs, imperial or royal warrants) and later on, with for instance dedicated exhibitions (such as Paul Poiret or Charles James honored at the Metropolitan Museum of Art), or in some cases by becoming the object of a strong cult following.[16] Publicized revivalsIn 2009, Luvanis acquired rights over the luxury trunk maker Moynat. Established in Paris in 1849, Moynat was a peer to Goyard and Louis Vuitton, before disappearing in 1976.[17] Luvanis introduced the revival opportunity to Bernard Arnault who bought Moynat via Groupe Arnault.[18] Moynat reopened with a flagship store in Paris in December 2011,[19][20] followed by shops in London in 2014,[21] Hong Kong,[22] Beijing in 2015, Tokyo,[23] New York,[24] Seoul,[25] Taipei in 2016, Singapore in 2017,[26] and Dubai in 2018.[27] Luvanis also repositioned for revival the French trunk maker Au Départ,[28] and the American leather goods company Belber.[11] Luvanis sold Belber to the former owners of Alain Figaret and Delvaux, who released a new collection of bags and accessories in 2016.[29] In the wake of a landmark exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art dedicated to the American fashion designer Charles James in 2014,[30] Luvanis joined forces and trademarks rights with the designer’s heirs in June 2016, paving the way for the revival of the couture house.[31][32] In September 2018, Luvanis revealed a new visual identity for Charles James, and put up for sale all the brands rights, which have been consolidated in the previous years.[33] In October 2014, Luvanis received extensive press attention when it announced the sale of the Paul Poiret brand, as well as of part of the house’s archives.[34][35] In August 2015, after a long and careful selection process, Luvanis entered into an agreement with the South-Korean luxury group Shinsegae International for the sale of Paul Poiret.[36][37] After mounting press speculations,[38] Shinsegae officially confirmed in January 2018 the reopening of the house with Belgian businesswoman Anne Chapelle at its helm,[39] and Paris-based Chinese couturier Yiqing Yin as its artistic director.[40][41][42] Poiret showed its first new collection in March 2018 after a 90-year hiatus.[43][44] Luvanis was the lead corporate sponsor of an exhibition on Mainbocher held at the Chicago History Museum between October 2016 and August 2017,[45][46] a long overdue homage[47] celebrating the American couturier,[48] which garnered more than 100,000 visitors. Luvanis announced plans to revive the couture house Mainbocher shortly after.[15] Notable brandsThe most notable long heritage brands currently or formerly part of Luvanis portfolio include the following:
Notes and references1. ^1 2 3 4 5 6 7 {{Cite book|title=European Fashion: The Creation of a Global Industry|last=Zanon|first=Johanna|publisher=Manchester University Press|year=2018|isbn=978-1-5261-2210-0|editor-last1=Blaszczyk|editor-first1=Regina Lee |location=Manchester|pages=|chapter=Reawakening the 'Sleeping Beauties' of Haute Couture: The Case of Guy and Arnaud de Lummen|editor-last2=Pouillard|editor-first2=Véronique}} 2. ^{{Cite book|title=The 'Sleeping Beauties' of Haute Couture: Jean Patou, Elsa Schiaparelli, Madeleine Vionnet|last=Zanon|first=Johanna|publisher=University of Oslo|year=2017|isbn=|location=Oslo|pages=1–26}} 3. ^{{Cite journal|last=Dion|first=Delphine|last2=Mazzalovo|first2=Gérald|date=|title=Reviving sleeping beauty brands by rearticulating brand heritage|url=https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2016.04.105|journal=Journal of Business Research|volume=69|issue=12|pages=5894–5900|doi=10.1016/j.jbusres.2016.04.105|via=}} 4. ^{{Cite book|title=The 'Sleeping Beauties' of Haute Couture: Jean Patou, Elsa Schiaparelli, Madeleine Vionnet|last=Zanon|first=Johanna|publisher=University of Oslo|year=2017|isbn=|location=Oslo|pages=55–87}} 5. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2006/08/27/style/tmagazine/revival-of-the-fittest.html|title=Revival of the Fittest|last=Diliberto|first=Gioia|date=2006-08-27|work=The New York Times|access-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|language=en-US|issn=0362-4331}} 6. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2006/12/18/style/18iht-fvion.3939109.html|title=Renaissance of Vionnet: A bias toward elegance - Style & Design - International Herald Tribune|last=Menkes|first=Suzy|date=2006-12-18|work=The New York Times|access-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|language=en-US|issn=0362-4331|author-link=Suzy Menkes}} 7. ^{{Cite web|url=https://blogs.wsj.com/runway/2007/02/02/fw-vionnet/|title=Vionnet’s Revival|last=|first=|date=2007-02-02|website=Wall Street Journal|language=en-US|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|access-date=2018-02-02}} 8. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2007/10/08/style/08iht-rrucci.4.7801808.html|title=Turnaround begins at Vionnet|last=Menkes|first=Suzy|date=2007-10-08|work=The New York Times|access-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|language=en-US|issn=0362-4331|author-link=Suzy Menkes}} 9. ^{{Cite news|url=http://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/marzotto-castiglioni-buy-vionnet-2029219/|title=Marzotto, Castiglioni Buy Vionnet|last=Ilari|first=Alessandra|date=2009-02-24|work=Women's Wear Daily|access-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|language=en-US}} 10. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/opinion/are-fashions-smaller-brands-cinderellas-snow-whites-or-sleeping-beauties|title=Cinderellas, Snow Whites or Sleeping Beauties?|last=Solca|first=Luca|date=2015-05-12|work=The Business of Fashion|access-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|language=en-GB}} 11. ^1 {{Cite news|url=http://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/de-lummens-revival-model-5886947/|title=Arnaud de Lummen: Fashion’s Brand Reviver|last=Socha|first=Miles|date=2012-05-02|work=Women's Wear Daily|access-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|language=en-US}} 12. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/why-relaunch-old-fashion-houses|title=Why Relaunch Old Fashion Houses?|last=Liroy|first=Choufan|date=2012-03-21|work=The Business of Fashion|access-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|language=en-GB}} 13. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/fashion-blog/2014/nov/07/why-fashion-loves-to-revive-heritage-brands|title=Why fashion loves to revive heritage brands|last=Cochrane|first=Lauren|date=2014-11-07|website=The Guardian|language=en|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|access-date=2018-02-02}} 14. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.ft.com/content/03aaa54a-26a2-11e3-9dc0-00144feab7de?mhq5j=e3|title=Arnaud de Lummen Awakens Vintage Luxury Brands from their Slumber|last=Thomson|first=Adam|date=26 September 2013|website=Financial Times|language=en-GB|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|access-date=2018-02-02}} 15. ^1 {{Cite news|url=http://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/de-lummen-sleeping-beauties-10725279/|title=Arnaud de Lummen on Reviving Sleeping Beauties|last=Foreman|first=Katya|date=2016-12-12|work=Women's Wear Daily|access-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|language=en-US}} 16. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.marques.org/Class46/default.asp?XID=BHA4533|title=Brands & Culture. The 31st Marques Annual Conference|last=|first=|date=|website=www.marques.org|archive-url=|archive-date=2017-09-22|dead-url=|access-date=2018-02-02}} 17. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.wsj.com/articles/the-cult-of-french-luxury-brand-moynat-1430422296|title=The Cult of French Luxury Brand Moynat|last=Voight|first=Rebecca|date=2015-04-30|work=Wall Street Journal|access-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|language=en-US|issn=0099-9660}} 18. ^{{Cite news|url=|title=Arnault Eyes Bags of Potential in Trunk-Maker|last=Narayan|first=Shoba|date=2012-03-06|work=Financial Times|access-date=|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=}} 19. ^{{Cite news|url=https://wwd.com/accessories-news/leather-goods/arnault-relaunches-moynat-5405888/|title=Bernard Arnault Revives Trunk Maker Moynat|last=Socha|first=Miles|date=2011-12-01|work=Women's Wear Daily|access-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|language=en-US}} 20. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424052702304765304577482571901768092|title=Luxury Trunks, Reinvented|last=Murphy|first=Robert|date=2012-06-28|work=Wall Street Journal|access-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|language=en-US|issn=0099-9660}} 21. ^{{Cite news|url=http://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/moynat-marks-opening-of-london-store-7588740/|title=Moynat Marks Opening of London Store|last=Conti|first=Samantha|date=2014-03-13|work=Women's Wear Daily|access-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|language=en-US}} 22. ^{{Cite news|url=http://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/moynat-hits-hong-kong-8094327/|title=Moynat Hits Hong Kong|last=Sheng|first=Ellen|date=2015-01-09|work=Women's Wear Daily|access-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|language=en-US}} 23. ^{{Cite news|url=http://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/moynat-first-tokyo-boutique-10347810/|title=Moynat Readies First Tokyo Boutique|last=Socha|first=Miles|date=2016-02-15|work=Women's Wear Daily|access-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|language=en-US}} 24. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2016/03/24/fashion/moynat-nike-phillip-lim-c21-edition.html|title=Moynat Sets Up Shop on Madison Avenue|last=Cohn|first=Alison S.|date=2016-03-23|work=The New York Times|access-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|language=en-US|issn=0362-4331}} 25. ^{{Cite news|url=http://www.koreaherald.com/view.php?ud=20160818000600|title=Moynat comes to Korea|last=Ho-jung|first=Won|date=2016-08-18|work=The Korea Herald|access-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|language=en}} 26. ^{{Cite news|url=http://www.straitstimes.com/lifestyle/fashion/his-leather-playground-in-hougang|title=Luxury goods brand Moynat lauds Defu Lane tannery|last=Seah|first=May|date=2017-09-28|work=The Straits Times|access-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|language=en}} 27. ^{{Cite news|url=http://wwd.com/business-news/markets/moynat-dubai-boutique-1202624085/|title=Moynat Sets Dubai Boutique|last=Upadhyay|first=Ritu|date=2018-03-08|work=Women's Wear Daily|access-date=2018-05-25|language=en-US}} 28. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.forbes.com/sites/hannahelliott/2013/03/20/coming-soon-the-best-fashion-brands-youve-never-heard-of/#133106713a5f|title=Coming Soon: The Glamorous Fashion Brands You've Never Heard Of|last=Elliott|first=Hannah|date=|work=Forbes|access-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|language=en}} 29. ^{{Cite news|url=http://www.belber.com/media/pressrelease2.pdf|title=Press Release – The Revival of Belber 1891|last=|first=|date=2016-01-15|work=Belber commercial website|access-date=|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=}} 30. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2014/charles-james-beyond-fashion|title=Charles James: Beyond Fashion|last=|first=|date=|website=The Metropolitan Museum of Art|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|access-date=2018-02-02}} 31. ^{{Cite news|url=http://wwd.com/business-news/mergers-acquisitions/charles-james-harvey-weinstein-revival-with-new-partner-10465404|title=Charles James Heirs Seek Brand Revival With New Partner|last=Socha|first=Miles|date=2016-06-23|work=Women's Wear Daily|access-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|language=en-US}} 32. ^{{Cite news|url=http://wwd.com/eye/people/charles-james-portrait-of-an-unreasonable-designer-1202626395/|title=Charles James: Portrait of an ‘Unreasonable’ Designer|last=Koski|first=Lorna|date=2018-03-13|work=Women's Wear Daily|access-date=2018-05-25|language=en-US}} 33. ^{{Cite news|url=https://wwd.com/business-news/mergers-acquisitions/charles-james-brand-rights-on-sale-1202788206/|title=EXCLUSIVE: Charles James Brand Rights Up for Sale|last=Diderich|first=Joelle|date=2018-09-07|work=Women's Wear Daily|access-date=2018-09-07|language=en-US}} 34. ^{{Cite news|url=https://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2014/10/28/the-name-of-the-french-fashion-designer-paul-poiret-is-for-sale/|title=Fashionistas and Investors Start Salivating: Paul Poiret Is For Sale|last=Friedman|first=Vanessa|date=|work=On the Runway Blog|access-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|language=en|author-link=Vanessa Friedman}} 35. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/house-of-poiret-gets-a-second-life-9863843.html|title=House of Poiret gets a second life|last=Fury|first=Alexander|date=2014-11-16|work=The Independent|access-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|language=en-GB}} 36. ^{{Cite news|url=http://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/paul-poiret-acquired-shinsegae-designer10198971-10198971/|title=Paul Poiret Trademarks Acquired By Shinsegae International|last=Socha|first=Miles|date=2015-08-10|work=Women's Wear Daily|access-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|language=en-US}} 37. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/brands/paul-poiret-brand-acquired-by-shinsegae-international/|title=Paul Poiret brand one step closer to resurrection|last=Sowray|first=Bibby|date=|work=The Telegraph|access-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|language=en-GB}} 38. ^{{Cite news|url=https://mobile.nytimes.com/2017/07/05/fashion/paul-poiret-couture-paris.html?referer=https://www.google.fr/|title=The Rebirth of Paul Poiret|last=Wendlandt|first=Astrid|date=2017-07-05|work=The New York Times|access-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|language=en}} 39. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/people/anne-chapelles-next-move-rebooting-poiret|title=Anne Chapelle’s Next Move: Rebooting Poiret|last=Ahmed|first=Osman|date=2018-01-30|work=The Business of Fashion|access-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|language=en-GB}} 40. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/paul-poiret-label-revival-yiqing-yin|title=Poiret Is Being Revived a Century After Its Heyday—Will It Matter to Fashion Audiences in 2018?|last=Borrelli-Persson|first=Laird|date=|work=Vogue|access-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|language=en}} 41. ^{{Cite news|url=http://madame.lefigaro.fr/style/les-dessous-de-la-renaissance-de-la-griffe-paul-poiret-sur-les-podiums-paris-yiqing-yin-270218-147461|title=Les dessous de la renaissance de la griffe Paul Poiret sur les podiums parisiens|work=Madame Figaro|access-date=2018-05-25|language=fr-FR}} 42. ^{{Cite news|url=http://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/yiqing-yin-brings-poiret-into-21st-century-shinsegae-1202596286/|title=EXCLUSIVE: Yiqing Yin on Reviving Poiret for the 21st Century|last=Diderich|first=Joelle|date=2018-02-27|work=Women's Wear Daily|access-date=2018-05-25|language=en-US}} 43. ^{{Cite news|url=http://www.thefashionlaw.com/home/the-king-of-fashions-house-gets-a-second-chance-at-life|title=The King of Fashion's House Gets a Second Chance at Life|work=The Fashion Law|access-date=2018-05-25|language=en-US}} 44. ^{{Cite news|url=http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/poiret-paris-fashion-week-2018|title=Revival Of The Fittest: Inside The Poiret Launch 90 Years In The Making|last=Bala|first=Divya|access-date=2018-05-25}} 45. ^{{Cite web|url=http://makingmainbocher.com/|title=Making Mainbocher|last=|first=|date=|website=Chicago History Museum|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|access-date=}} 46. ^{{Cite news|url=http://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/chicago-museum-mainbocher-exhibit-10474664/|title=Chicago Museum to Mount Mainbocher Exhibit|last=Larson|first=Kristin|date=2016-06-29|work=Women's Wear Daily|access-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|language=en-US}} 47. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/exhibitions-mainbocher-from-the-archives|title=Mainbocher—The Most Important American Designer You’ve Never Heard Of—Is Getting His Due in Chicago|last=Borrelli-Persson|first=Laird|date=|work=Vogue|access-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|language=en}} 48. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.wsj.com/articles/celebrating-the-first-american-couturier-1476901504|title=Celebrating the First American Couturier|last=Chrisman-Campbell|first=Kimberly|date=2016-11-22|work=Wall Street Journal|access-date=2018-02-02|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|language=en-US|issn=0099-9660}} Further reading
External links
3 : Luxury brand holding companies|Holding companies of Luxembourg|Companies based in Luxembourg City |
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