| 词条 | Anderl Heckmair |
| 释义 |
| name = Andreas Heckmair | image = | alt = | caption = | birth_name = | birth_date = {{Birth date|1906|10|12}} | birth_place = Munich, Germany | death_date = {{Death date and age|2005|02|01|1906|10|12}} | death_place = Oberstdorf, Germany | nationality = German | other_names = | occupation = Mountain climber, guide | known_for = Eiger north face first ascent }}Andreas "Anderl" Heckmair (October 12, 1906 – February 1, 2005) was a German mountain climber and guide who led the first successful ascent of the Eiger north face in July 1938.[1] [2] Eiger first ascentThe most experienced mountaineer in a group consisting of himself, Ludwig Vörg, Heinrich Harrer and Fritz Kasparek, Heckmair led the most difficult pitches in the ascent, aided by the extensive kit (including new 12-point crampons) that he and Vörg had purchased using sponsors' money. He ran into several problems on the North Face of the Eiger, including a slip while climbing out of the exit cracks; Ludwig Vörg caught him by his feet, piercing his hand on Heckmair's crampons as he did so. The success brought Heckmair fame throughout the world, but particularly in his native Germany. The reception included an audience with Adolf Hitler (whom Heckmair had met before after working with Leni Riefenstahl). Although the Nazis used his achievement for propaganda Anderl shunned the publicity and never joined the Nazi party. After serving on the Eastern Front in World War II, he worked as a mountain guide in his native Bavaria, and was one of the driving forces in the formation of a professional association for mountain guides. In addition to the Eiger climb, Heckmair climbed new routes on the Grandes Jorasses and many other alpine mountains. He also participated in expeditions to the Andes and the Himalaya. He was also partially responsible for the development of the "two rope" climbing system. In 1934, he took part as a reserve of the DSV team (Franz Fischer, Gustav "Gustl" Müller, Matthias Wörndle) in the Trofeo Mezzalama ski mountaineering competition. Heckmair started one and a half hour after the teams as single runner and overtook all the competing teams.[3] Anderl lived in Oberstdorf until his death. Literature
References1. ^{{cite web|title=Anderl Heckmair |work=The Telegraph |date=February 5, 2005 |url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/obituaries/1482809/Anderl-Heckmair.html |accessdate=January 8, 2014}} 2. ^[https://www.lemonde.fr/archives/article/2005/02/04/anderl-heckmair-alpiniste-allemand_396900_1819218.html Anderl Heckmair, alpiniste allemand - Le pionnier de la face nord de l'Eiger] 3. ^Trofeo Mezzalama - Ein Hochgebirgswettlauf der Sonderklasse {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111007005851/http://cms.alpenverein.de/download_file.php?id=298&showfile=1 |date=2011-10-07 }} (German), p. 44.
External links{{Portal|Biography}}
7 : Alpine guides|Sportspeople from Munich|German mountain climbers|German male ski mountaineers|1906 births|2005 deaths|People associated with the Eiger |
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