“Autoblock”的意思、由来-开放百科全书

An autoblock (or autobloc or "third hand") is a rope device used in climbing and caving for both rappelling (downward) and ascending (upward).^[1]^[2]

While rappelling, it slides freely down the rope when pushed downward by the hand, allowing a controlled descent, but jams in the event of a sudden drop or loss of control, stopping the descent. This prevents uncontrolled falls in the event of an accident in which the abseiler loses control of the rope.^[3] For ascending, it likewise can be pushed up the rope manually when unweighted, but jams and holds when weighted by the body.

It is made using a friction hitch around the rope, connected by a carabiner to the climber's harness, and may be combined with other climbing equipment for further safety.^[4] For instance, it is typically used as a backup while rappelling using a tube belay device.^[1]

The term autoblock is also used for a specific type of friction hitch,^[5]^[2]^[6] which is also known as a French prusik or Machard knot, named after its inventor, Serge Machard.^[7]^[8]

Other friction hitches that can be used to build an autoblock system include the Prusik knot, Klemheist knot, and Bachmann knot.

References

1. ^¹{{Cite news|url=https://www.devilslakeclimbingguides.com/blog/autoblock-backup-for-rappelling|title=6-Step Guide to Rappelling with an Autobloc Backup|work=Devils Lake Climbing Guides|access-date=2018-07-10|language=en-US}}
2. ^¹{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=EU6LBAAAQBAJ|title=Rock Climbing: The AMGA Single Pitch Manual|last=Gaines|first=Bob|last2=Martin|first2=Jason D.|date=2014-05-20|publisher=Rowman & Littlefield|year=|isbn=9781493009626|location=|pages=|language=en|quote=Sometimes called the “third hand,” the autoblock is ... friction hitches like the prusik, klemheist, and autoblock}}
3. ^{{Cite web|title = How to Tie and Use an Autoblock Knot for Climbing|url = http://climbing.about.com/od/climbingknots/ss/HowTieAutoblock.htm|accessdate = 2015-04-24}}
4. ^{{Cite web|title = 6-Step Guide to Rappelling with an Autoblock Backup|url = http://www.devilslakeclimbingguides.com/blog/autoblock-backup-for-rappelling/|accessdate = 2015-04-24}}
5. ^{{Cite web|url=http://dyeclan.com/outdoors101/canyoneering101/?page=autoblock-belay|title=Canyoneering 101 - Autoblock {{!}} The Dye Clan|last=|first=|date=|website=dyeclan.com|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|access-date=2018-07-09|quote=The term "autoblock" is kind of ambiguous as it refers to both the knot and the system. As such, you can create an autoblock system with the autoblock knot, a Klemheist (French Prusik), or a valdôtain tresse.}}
6. ^{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/251227945|title=Rock climbing|last=|first=|date=2009|publisher=Human Kinetics|others=Kidd, Timothy W., Hazelrigs, Jennifer., Wilderness Education Association (U.S.)|year=|isbn=9780736068024|location=Champaign, IL|pages=|oclc=251227945|quote=Examples of appropriate hitches include autoblock, klemheist, and Prusik}}
7. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.summitpost.org/the-machard-knot/936995|title=The Machard Knot|last=|first=|date=|website=|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|accessdate=2016-10-20|quote=the Knot invented in 1961 by Serge Marchard, a young climber from Marseille}}
8. ^{{Cite web|url=http://cafmarseille.free.fr/spip.php?article553|title=Le noeud Machard et son histoire - CAF Marseille Provence|last=Vola|first=Eric|date=2016-06-03|website=|language=fr|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160603041436/http://cafmarseille.free.fr/spip.php?article553|archive-date=2016-06-03|dead-url=|access-date=2018-07-09|quote=[from French] Serge had sent André a letter on December 28, 1961 which among other things included the description of his knot. The two diagrams of his letter are reproduced here.}}

References

External links