词条 | Coty Award |
释义 |
The Coty American Fashion Critics' Awards were created in 1942 by the cosmetics and perfume company Coty, Inc. to promote and celebrate American fashion, and encourage design during the Second World War.[1][2] In 1985, the Coty Awards were discontinued; the CFDA Awards fulfill a similar role. HistoryThe Coty Awards were conceived and created by Coty, Inc. Executive Vice President, Jean Despres, founder of The Fragrance Foundation and FiFi Awards, and Grover Whalen (a member of the New York City Mayor's Committee, and president of the 1939 New York World's Fair). The fashion publicist Eleanor Lambert was employed to promote and produce the awards.[1][3] The awards were given solely to designers based in America, unlike the Neiman Marcus Fashion Awards.[4] Until its discontinuation in 1985, the Coty Award was considered one of the most prestigious awards in the field of fashion. The awards were designed by Malvina Hoffman.[5] The womenswear awards are popularly known as Winnies; the menswear award which began in 1968 has no name.[2] Repeat awards were the Return Award and the Hall of Fame award. Special Awards were also awarded to designers in specialist fields. In 1985, Donald Flannery, the senior vice-president of Pfizer, Inc., Coty's parent company, announced that since the awards had successfully brought America into the worldwide fashion scene, it was decided to discontinue them.[6] Recipients of the Award1943–1949
Winnie Norman Norell Special Awards Lilly Daché (millinery) John Frederics (millinery) Additional citations[1] Hattie Carnegie (fashion designer & retailer) Clare Potter (American sportswear) Charles Cooper Mainbocher (American couture) Claire McCardell (American sportswear) Valentina (American couture)
Winnie Claire McCardell Special Awards Phelps Associates (leather accessories) Sally Victor (millinery)
Winnies Gilbert Adrian Tina Leser Emily Wilkens
Winnies Omar Kiam (of Ben Reig) Vincent Monte-Sano Clare Potter Additional citations[7] Ceil Chapman Helen Morgan Carolyn Schnurer Wallace Mackey Morris Wolock Brooke Cadwallader Nina Wolf
The awards of 1947 recognised the work of the four main branches of the fashion industry: bespoke high-end design, high end wholesale, mid-priced wholesale, and junior fashion.[8] Winnies Jacob H. Horwitz (junior fashions) Mark Mooring (couture design for Bergdorf Goodman) Nettie Rosenstein (high end wholesale) Adele Simpson (medium end wholesale)
Winnie Hattie Carnegie Special Awards Joseph de Leo (furs) Esther Dorothy (furs) Maximilian (furs)
Winnie Pauline Trigère Special Awards David Evins (shoes) Toni Owen (American sportswear) 1950–1959
Winnies Charles James Bonnie Cashin Special Awards Mabel & Charles Julianelli (shoes) Nancy Melcher (lingerie)
Winnie Jane Derby Return Award Norman Norell Pauline Trigère Special Awards Anne Fogarty (prettiest dresses[2]) Vera Maxwell (American sportswear) Sylvia Pedlar (lingerie)
Winnies Ben Zuckerman Ben Sommers of Capezio Special Awards Karen Stark at Harvey Berin (concept of dressing) Sydney Wragge (concept of dressing)
Winnie Tom Brigance Special Awards Helen Lee (children's clothing) John Moore at Matty Talmack (evening wear)
Winnie James Galanos Special Awards Charles James (innovative cutting)
Winnies Anne Klein Jeanne Campbell Herbert Kasper Special Award Adolfo (millinery)
Winnies Luis Estevez Sally Victor Return Award James Galanos Hall of Fame Award Norman Norell Special Award Gertrude & Robert Goldworm (knitwear)
Winnies Leslie Morris Sydney Wragge Special Award Emeric Partos (furs)
Winnie Arnold Scaasi Return Award Ben Zuckerman Hall of Fame Award Claire McCardell (posthumous) Special Awards Donald Brooks (influence on evening clothes) Jean Schlumberger (jewelry)
Hall of Fame Awards James Galanos Pauline Trigère 1960–1969
Winnies Ferdinando Sarmi Jacques Tiffeau Special Awards Rudi Gernreich (innovative body clothes) Sol Klein at Nettie Rosenstein (costume jewelry) Roxane of Samuel Winston (beaded evening wear)
Winnies Bill Blass Gustave Tassell Hall of Fame Award Ben Zuckerman Special Awards Bonnie Cashin (deep-country clothes) Kenneth (leadership in hair-styling)
Winnie Donald Brooks Special Award Halston (millinery)
Winnie Rudi Gernreich Return Award Bill Blass Special Awards Arthur and Theodora Edelman (leather design) Betty Yokova of Neustadter Furs Inc.
Winnie Geoffrey Beene Return Award Jacques Tiffeau Special Award David Webb (jewelry design) Return Special Award Sylvia Pedlar
Tzaims Luksus (fabric design) Pablo of Elizabeth Arden (leadership in make-up) Gertrude Seperack of Warner's (bodystockings and foundation garments) Special Awards Anna Potov of Maximilian (furs) Sylvia de Gay (young fashion) Edie Gladstone (young fashion) Stan Herman (young fashion) Victor Joris (young fashion) Gayle Kirkpatrick (young fashion) Deanna Littell (young fashion) Leo Narducci (young fashion) Don Simonelli (young fashion) Bill Smith (young fashion)
Winnie Dominic at Matty Talmack Return Awards Rudi Gernreich Geoffrey Beene Special Award Kenneth Jay Lane (costume jewelry)
Winnie Oscar de la Renta Return Award Donald Brooks Hall of Fame Award Rudi Gernreich Special Award Herbert & Beth Levine (shoes)
Winnies George Halley Luba Marks Return Awards Bonnie Cashin Oscar de la Renta Special Award Giorgio di Sant' Angelo(fantasy accessories and ethnic fashions)
Winnies Stan Herman Victor Joris Return Award Anne Klein Special Awards Adolfo (millinery) Halston (millinery) Julian Tomchin (fabric designs) 1970–1979
Winnies Giorgio di Sant' Angelo Chester Weinberg Return Award Herbert Kasper Hall of Fame Award Bill Blass Special Awards Will & Eileen Richardson of Up Tied (Tie-dyed fabrics) Steven Brody and Daniel Stoenescu of Cadoro (costume jewelry) Alexis Kirk (costume jewelry) Cliff Nicholson (costume jewelry) Marty Ruza (costume jewelry) Bill Smith (costume jewelry) Menswear Award Ralph Lauren
Winnies Halston Betsey Johnson at Alley Cat Hall of Fame Award Anne Klein Hall of Fame Citation Bill Blass Special Awards John Kloss of Cira (lingerie) Nancy Knox (men's shoes) Levi Strauss & Co (worldwide fashion influence) Elsa Peretti (jewelry) Menswear Award Larry Kane of Raffles Wear
Winnie John Anthony Return Award Halston Hall of Fame Award Bonnie Cashin Special Award Dorothy Weatherford of Mountain Artisans (patchwork and quality) Special Menswear Awards Robert Margolis of A. Smile Inc. (excitement in menswear) Alan Rosanes of Gordon Gregory Ltd. (excitement in menswear) Alexander Shields (excitement in menswear) Pinky Wolman & Dianne Beaudry of Flo Toronto (excitement in menswear)
Winnies Stephen Burrows Calvin Klein Hall of Fame Award Oscar de la Renta Special Awards Clovis Ruffin (original young fashion) Joe Famolare (shoes) Don Kline (hats) Judith Leiber (handbags) Herbert & Beth Levine (shoes) Michael Moraux of Dubaux (jewelry) Celia Sebiri (jewelry) Menswear Award Piero Dimitri
Winnie Ralph Lauren Return Award Calvin Klein Hall of Fame Awards Geoffrey Beene Halston Special Awards Stephen Burrows (lingerie) Stan Herman (lingerie) John Kloss (lingerie) Fernando Sánchez (lingerie) Bill Tice (lingerie) Menswear Award Bill Kaiserman of Rafael Menswear Return Award Piero Dimitri Special Menswear Awards Sal Cesarani (menswear) John Weitz (menswear) Aido Cipullo (male jewelry)
Winnies Carol Horn Hall of Fame Award Calvin Klein Hall of Fame Citation Geoffrey Beene Hall of Fame Award (menswear) Piero Dimitri Special Awards Bill Blass for Revillon America (fur design) Fernando Sanchez for Revillon America (fur design) Calvin Klein for Alixandre (fur design) Viola Sylbert for Alixandre (fur design) Monika Tilley for Elon (swimwear) Menswear Award Chuck Howard & Peter Wrigley at Anne Klein Studio Menswear Return Award Bill Kaiserman of Rafael Special Menswear Award Nancy Knox (leather menswear)
Winnie Mary McFadden Return Awards John Anthony Ralph Lauren Hall of Fame Award Herbert Kasper Hall of Fame Award (menswear) Bill Kaiserman Special Awards American Sporting Gear (Sportswear (activewear)) Barbara Dulien (womenswear) Menswear Award Sal Cesarani Special Menswear Awards Vicky Davis (men's neckwear) Lowell Judson (men's loungewear) Ronald Kolodzie (men's loungewear) Robert Schafter (men's loungewear)
Winnies Stephen Burrows Donna Karan & Louis Dell'Olio for Anne Klein Hall of Fame Award Ralph Lauren Hall of Fame Citation Geoffrey Beene (Contribution to American Fashion) Special Awards Ted Muehling (jewelry) Fernando Sanchez (lingerie) Menswear Award Alexander Julian
Winnies Bill Atkinson Charles Suppon Return Award Mary McFadden Special Awards Joan & David Helpern (shoes and boots) AMF Head Sportswear Co. (outstanding contribution to activewear) Danskin Inc. (exercise and sports clothing) Menswear Award Robert Stock Menswear Hall of Fame Citation Bill Kaiserman
Winnie Perry Ellis Hall of Fame Award Mary McFadden Hall of Fame Citations for contributions to international status of American fashion Geoffrey Beene Halston Calvin Klein Ralph Lauren Special Awards Barry Kieselstein-Cord (jewelry) Gil Truedsson (shoes) Joan Vass (knitwear) Menswear Award Lee Wright Menswear Return Award Alexander Julian Special Menswear Award Conrad Bell (men's furs) 1980–1984
Winnie Michaele Vollbracht Special Awards Jeffrey Aronoff (handwoven fabrics) Stewart Richer for Reminiscence (retailers) Menswear Award Jhane Barnes Menswear Special Award Ron Chereskin
After Beene, Klein and Lauren all rejected their awards, it was decided that all nominees would receive awards.[2] Winnies Calvin Klein Perry Ellis Geoffrey Beene Special Awards Barry Kieselstein-Cord (jewelry) Alex Mate & Lee Brooks (jewelry) Fernando Sánchez Fabrice Simon (beaded evening wear) Hot Sox (hosiery) Robert Lee Morris (jewelry) Laura Pearson at Tijuca (knitwear) Menswear Award Jhane Barnes Alexander Julian Ralph Lauren Menswear Special Awards Andrew Fezza Nancy Knox Robert Lighton
Winnie Adri Return Awards Norma Kamali Donna Karan & Louis Dell'Olio (of Anne Klein) Special Awards Susan Bennis & Warren Edwards (shoes) Jay Lord Hatters Patricia Underwood (millinery) Ted Muehling (jewelry) Allen Veness (weaving and knitwear) Special Award Citation Geoffrey Beene (fifth Coty Award citation) Menswear Award Jeffrey Banks Menswear Return Award Sal Cesarani Menswear Special Award Robert Comstock (men's outerwear) Zoran (men's separates)
Winnie Willi Smith Hall of Fame Award Norma Kamali Special Award Citations Perry Ellis (womenswear) Bill Blass Alexander Julian Carlos Falchi (handbags) Susan Horton Selma, Jon & Barbara Weiser of Charivari Menswear Award Alan Flusser Menswear Return Award Perry Ellis
Winnie Adrienne Vittadini Hall of Fame Award Donna Karan & Louis Dell'Olio (of Anne Klein) Special Awards Milena Canonero Robin Kahn (jewelry) Barry Kieselstein-Cord (jewelry) Michelle & Janis Savitt (jewelry) Menswear Andrew Fezza Hall of Fame Award (Menswear) Perry Ellis Menswear Return Award Jhane Barnes References1. ^1 2 {{cite book|last=Welters |first=Linda |title= Twentieth-century American Fashion| publisher=Berg Publishers |year= 2005 |pages=116 |isbn=978-1-84520-073-2}} 2. ^1 2 3 {{cite book| last = McDowell| first = Colin| title = McDowell's Directory of Twentieth Century Fashion| publisher = Frederick Muller| year = 1984| pages =299–301| isbn =0-584-11070-7}} 3. ^Mulvagh, Jane, [https://www.independent.co.uk/news/obituaries/eleanor-lambert-548881.html Obituary of Eleanor Lambert], published in The Independent, October 9, 2003 4. ^{{cite book| last = McDowell| first = Colin| title = McDowell's Directory of Twentieth Century Fashion| publisher = Frederick Muller| year = 1984| pages =302| isbn =0-584-11070-7}} 5. ^{{cite news|last1=Roe|first1=Dorothy|title=Fashion Critics Pick New Way to Serve Breakfast Oatmeal|url=https://www.newspapers.com/clip/2059765/the_progress/|accessdate=24 March 2015|work=The Progress (Clearfield, Pennsylvania)|agency=Associated Press|date=11 Sep 1952|via=Newspapers.com}} 6. ^Coty Awards discontinued after 4 decades, Daily News Record, June 1985 7. ^{{cite news |last1=Mara |first1=Margaret |title=Omar Kiam, Former MGM Designer, gets Fashion Award |url=https://www.newspapers.com/clip/1978388/the_brooklyn_daily_eagle/ |via=Newspapers.com |accessdate=13 March 2015 |work=The Brooklyn Daily Eagle |date=19 July 1946 |page=9}} 8. ^{{cite news|last1=Fegan|first1=Lois|title=Dress Parade|url=https://www.newspapers.com/clip/2752650/harrisburg_telegraph/|accessdate=5 July 2015|work=The Harrisburg Telegraph |via=Newspapers.com|date=2 October 1947}} 9. ^{{cite news|last1=Staff writer|title=Coty Awards Presented|url=https://www.newspapers.com/clip/3555084/tucson_daily_citizen/|accessdate=4 November 2015|work=Tucson Daily Citizen (Tucson, Arizona) |via=Newspapers.com|date=12 Oct 1965}} External links
6 : Fashion awards|American fashion|Awards established in 1943|1943 establishments in the United States|Awards disestablished in 1985|1985 disestablishments in the United States |
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