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词条 Coty Award
释义

  1. History

  2. Recipients of the Award

     1943–1949  1950–1959  1960–1969  1970–1979  1980–1984 

  3. References

  4. External links

The Coty American Fashion Critics' Awards were created in 1942 by the cosmetics and perfume company Coty, Inc. to promote and celebrate American fashion, and encourage design during the Second World War.[1][2] In 1985, the Coty Awards were discontinued; the CFDA Awards fulfill a similar role.

History

The Coty Awards were conceived and created by Coty, Inc. Executive Vice President, Jean Despres, founder of The Fragrance Foundation and FiFi Awards, and Grover Whalen (a member of the New York City Mayor's Committee, and president of the 1939 New York World's Fair). The fashion publicist Eleanor Lambert was employed to promote and produce the awards.[1][3] The awards were given solely to designers based in America, unlike the Neiman Marcus Fashion Awards.[4] Until its discontinuation in 1985, the Coty Award was considered one of the most prestigious awards in the field of fashion. The awards were designed by Malvina Hoffman.[5] The womenswear awards are popularly known as Winnies; the menswear award which began in 1968 has no name.[2] Repeat awards were the Return Award and the Hall of Fame award. Special Awards were also awarded to designers in specialist fields.

In 1985, Donald Flannery, the senior vice-president of Pfizer, Inc., Coty's parent company, announced that since the awards had successfully brought America into the worldwide fashion scene, it was decided to discontinue them.[6]

Recipients of the Award

1943–1949

  • 1943

Winnie

Norman Norell

Special Awards

Lilly Daché (millinery)

John Frederics (millinery)

Additional citations[1]

Hattie Carnegie (fashion designer & retailer)

Clare Potter (American sportswear)

Charles Cooper

Mainbocher (American couture)

Claire McCardell (American sportswear)

Valentina (American couture)

  • 1944

Winnie

Claire McCardell

Special Awards

Phelps Associates (leather accessories)

Sally Victor (millinery)

  • 1945

Winnies

Gilbert Adrian

Tina Leser

Emily Wilkens

  • 1946

Winnies

Omar Kiam (of Ben Reig)

Vincent Monte-Sano

Clare Potter

Additional citations[7]

Ceil Chapman

Helen Morgan

Carolyn Schnurer

Wallace Mackey

Morris Wolock

Brooke Cadwallader

Nina Wolf

  • 1947

The awards of 1947 recognised the work of the four main branches of the fashion industry: bespoke high-end design, high end wholesale, mid-priced wholesale, and junior fashion.[8]

Winnies

Jacob H. Horwitz (junior fashions)

Mark Mooring (couture design for Bergdorf Goodman)

Nettie Rosenstein (high end wholesale)

Adele Simpson (medium end wholesale)

  • 1948

Winnie

Hattie Carnegie

Special Awards

Joseph de Leo (furs)

Esther Dorothy (furs)

Maximilian (furs)

  • 1949

Winnie

Pauline Trigère

Special Awards

David Evins (shoes)

Toni Owen (American sportswear)

1950–1959

  • 1950

Winnies

Charles James

Bonnie Cashin

Special Awards

Mabel & Charles Julianelli (shoes)

Nancy Melcher (lingerie)

  • 1951

Winnie

Jane Derby

Return Award

Norman Norell

Pauline Trigère

Special Awards

Anne Fogarty (prettiest dresses[2])

Vera Maxwell (American sportswear)

Sylvia Pedlar (lingerie)

  • 1952

Winnies

Ben Zuckerman

Ben Sommers of Capezio

Special Awards

Karen Stark at Harvey Berin (concept of dressing)

Sydney Wragge (concept of dressing)

  • 1953

Winnie

Tom Brigance

Special Awards

Helen Lee (children's clothing)

John Moore at Matty Talmack (evening wear)

  • 1954

Winnie

James Galanos

Special Awards

Charles James (innovative cutting)

  • 1955

Winnies

Anne Klein

Jeanne Campbell

Herbert Kasper

Special Award

Adolfo (millinery)

  • 1956

Winnies

Luis Estevez

Sally Victor

Return Award

James Galanos

Hall of Fame Award

Norman Norell

Special Award

Gertrude & Robert Goldworm (knitwear)

  • 1957

Winnies

Leslie Morris

Sydney Wragge

Special Award

Emeric Partos (furs)

  • 1958

Winnie

Arnold Scaasi

Return Award

Ben Zuckerman

Hall of Fame Award

Claire McCardell (posthumous)

Special Awards

Donald Brooks (influence on evening clothes)

Jean Schlumberger (jewelry)

  • 1959

Hall of Fame Awards

James Galanos

Pauline Trigère

1960–1969

  • 1960

Winnies

Ferdinando Sarmi

Jacques Tiffeau

Special Awards

Rudi Gernreich (innovative body clothes)

Sol Klein at Nettie Rosenstein (costume jewelry)

Roxane of Samuel Winston (beaded evening wear)

  • 1961

Winnies

Bill Blass

Gustave Tassell

Hall of Fame Award

Ben Zuckerman

Special Awards

Bonnie Cashin (deep-country clothes)

Kenneth (leadership in hair-styling)

  • 1962

Winnie

Donald Brooks

Special Award

Halston (millinery)

  • 1963

Winnie

Rudi Gernreich

Return Award

Bill Blass

Special Awards

Arthur and Theodora Edelman (leather design)

Betty Yokova of Neustadter Furs Inc.

  • 1964

Winnie

Geoffrey Beene

Return Award

Jacques Tiffeau

Special Award

David Webb (jewelry design)

Return Special Award

Sylvia Pedlar

  • 1965[9]

Tzaims Luksus (fabric design)

Pablo of Elizabeth Arden (leadership in make-up)

Gertrude Seperack of Warner's (bodystockings and foundation garments)

Special Awards

Anna Potov of Maximilian (furs)

Sylvia de Gay (young fashion)

Edie Gladstone (young fashion)

Stan Herman (young fashion)

Victor Joris (young fashion)

Gayle Kirkpatrick (young fashion)

Deanna Littell (young fashion)

Leo Narducci (young fashion)

Don Simonelli (young fashion)

Bill Smith (young fashion)

  • 1966

Winnie

Dominic at Matty Talmack

Return Awards

Rudi Gernreich

Geoffrey Beene

Special Award

Kenneth Jay Lane (costume jewelry)

  • 1967

Winnie

Oscar de la Renta

Return Award

Donald Brooks

Hall of Fame Award

Rudi Gernreich

Special Award

Herbert & Beth Levine (shoes)

  • 1968

Winnies

George Halley

Luba Marks

Return Awards

Bonnie Cashin

Oscar de la Renta

Special Award

Giorgio di Sant' Angelo(fantasy accessories and ethnic fashions)

  • 1969

Winnies

Stan Herman

Victor Joris

Return Award

Anne Klein

Special Awards

Adolfo (millinery)

Halston (millinery)

Julian Tomchin (fabric designs)

1970–1979

  • 1970

Winnies

Giorgio di Sant' Angelo

Chester Weinberg

Return Award

Herbert Kasper

Hall of Fame Award

Bill Blass

Special Awards

Will & Eileen Richardson of Up Tied (Tie-dyed fabrics)

Steven Brody and Daniel Stoenescu of Cadoro (costume jewelry)

Alexis Kirk (costume jewelry)

Cliff Nicholson (costume jewelry)

Marty Ruza (costume jewelry)

Bill Smith (costume jewelry)

Menswear Award

Ralph Lauren

  • 1971

Winnies

Halston

Betsey Johnson at Alley Cat

Hall of Fame Award

Anne Klein

Hall of Fame Citation

Bill Blass

Special Awards

John Kloss of Cira (lingerie)

Nancy Knox (men's shoes)

Levi Strauss & Co (worldwide fashion influence)

Elsa Peretti (jewelry)

Menswear Award

Larry Kane of Raffles Wear

  • 1972

Winnie

John Anthony

Return Award

Halston

Hall of Fame Award

Bonnie Cashin

Special Award

Dorothy Weatherford of Mountain Artisans (patchwork and quality)

Special Menswear Awards

Robert Margolis of A. Smile Inc. (excitement in menswear)

Alan Rosanes of Gordon Gregory Ltd. (excitement in menswear)

Alexander Shields (excitement in menswear)

Pinky Wolman & Dianne Beaudry of Flo Toronto (excitement in menswear)

  • 1973

Winnies

Stephen Burrows

Calvin Klein

Hall of Fame Award

Oscar de la Renta

Special Awards

Clovis Ruffin (original young fashion)

Joe Famolare (shoes)

Don Kline (hats)

Judith Leiber (handbags)

Herbert & Beth Levine (shoes)

Michael Moraux of Dubaux (jewelry)

Celia Sebiri (jewelry)

Menswear Award

Piero Dimitri

  • 1974

Winnie

Ralph Lauren

Return Award

Calvin Klein

Hall of Fame Awards

Geoffrey Beene

Halston

Special Awards

Stephen Burrows (lingerie)

Stan Herman (lingerie)

John Kloss (lingerie)

Fernando Sánchez (lingerie)

Bill Tice (lingerie)

Menswear Award

Bill Kaiserman of Rafael

Menswear Return Award

Piero Dimitri

Special Menswear Awards

Sal Cesarani (menswear)

John Weitz (menswear)

Aido Cipullo (male jewelry)

  • 1975

Winnies

Carol Horn

Hall of Fame Award

Calvin Klein

Hall of Fame Citation

Geoffrey Beene

Hall of Fame Award (menswear)

Piero Dimitri

Special Awards

Bill Blass for Revillon America (fur design)

Fernando Sanchez for Revillon America (fur design)

Calvin Klein for Alixandre (fur design)

Viola Sylbert for Alixandre (fur design)

Monika Tilley for Elon (swimwear)

Menswear Award

Chuck Howard & Peter Wrigley at Anne Klein Studio

Menswear Return Award

Bill Kaiserman of Rafael

Special Menswear Award

Nancy Knox (leather menswear)

  • 1976

Winnie

Mary McFadden

Return Awards

John Anthony

Ralph Lauren

Hall of Fame Award

Herbert Kasper

Hall of Fame Award (menswear)

Bill Kaiserman

Special Awards

American Sporting Gear (Sportswear (activewear))

Barbara Dulien (womenswear)

Menswear Award

Sal Cesarani

Special Menswear Awards

Vicky Davis (men's neckwear)

Lowell Judson (men's loungewear)

Ronald Kolodzie (men's loungewear)

Robert Schafter (men's loungewear)

  • 1977

Winnies

Stephen Burrows

Donna Karan & Louis Dell'Olio for Anne Klein

Hall of Fame Award

Ralph Lauren

Hall of Fame Citation

Geoffrey Beene (Contribution to American Fashion)

Special Awards

Ted Muehling (jewelry)

Fernando Sanchez (lingerie)

Menswear Award

Alexander Julian

  • 1978

Winnies

Bill Atkinson

Charles Suppon

Return Award

Mary McFadden

Special Awards

Joan & David Helpern (shoes and boots)

AMF Head Sportswear Co. (outstanding contribution to activewear)

Danskin Inc. (exercise and sports clothing)

Menswear Award

Robert Stock

Menswear Hall of Fame Citation

Bill Kaiserman

  • 1979

Winnie

Perry Ellis

Hall of Fame Award

Mary McFadden

Hall of Fame Citations

for contributions to international status of American fashion

Geoffrey Beene

Halston

Calvin Klein

Ralph Lauren

Special Awards

Barry Kieselstein-Cord (jewelry)

Gil Truedsson (shoes)

Joan Vass (knitwear)

Menswear Award

Lee Wright

Menswear Return Award

Alexander Julian

Special Menswear Award

Conrad Bell (men's furs)

1980–1984

  • 1980

Winnie

Michaele Vollbracht

Special Awards

Jeffrey Aronoff (handwoven fabrics)

Stewart Richer for Reminiscence (retailers)

Menswear Award

Jhane Barnes

Menswear Special Award

Ron Chereskin

  • 1981

After Beene, Klein and Lauren all rejected their awards, it was decided that all nominees would receive awards.[2]

Winnies

Calvin Klein

Perry Ellis

Geoffrey Beene

Special Awards

Barry Kieselstein-Cord (jewelry)

Alex Mate & Lee Brooks (jewelry)

Fernando Sánchez

Fabrice Simon (beaded evening wear)

Hot Sox (hosiery)

Robert Lee Morris (jewelry)

Laura Pearson at Tijuca (knitwear)

Menswear Award

Jhane Barnes

Alexander Julian

Ralph Lauren

Menswear Special Awards

Andrew Fezza

Nancy Knox

Robert Lighton

  • 1982

Winnie

Adri

Return Awards

Norma Kamali

Donna Karan & Louis Dell'Olio (of Anne Klein)

Special Awards

Susan Bennis & Warren Edwards (shoes)

Jay Lord Hatters

Patricia Underwood (millinery)

Ted Muehling (jewelry)

Allen Veness (weaving and knitwear)

Special Award Citation

Geoffrey Beene (fifth Coty Award citation)

Menswear Award

Jeffrey Banks

Menswear Return Award

Sal Cesarani

Menswear Special Award

Robert Comstock (men's outerwear)

Zoran (men's separates)

  • 1983

Winnie

Willi Smith

Hall of Fame Award

Norma Kamali

Special Award Citations

Perry Ellis (womenswear)

Bill Blass

Alexander Julian

Carlos Falchi (handbags)

Susan Horton

Selma, Jon & Barbara Weiser of Charivari

Menswear Award

Alan Flusser

Menswear Return Award

Perry Ellis

  • 1984

Winnie

Adrienne Vittadini

Hall of Fame Award

Donna Karan & Louis Dell'Olio (of Anne Klein)

Special Awards

Milena Canonero

Robin Kahn (jewelry)

Barry Kieselstein-Cord (jewelry)

Michelle & Janis Savitt (jewelry)

Menswear

Andrew Fezza

Hall of Fame Award (Menswear)

Perry Ellis

Menswear Return Award

Jhane Barnes

References

1. ^{{cite book|last=Welters |first=Linda |title= Twentieth-century American Fashion| publisher=Berg Publishers |year= 2005 |pages=116 |isbn=978-1-84520-073-2}}
2. ^{{cite book| last = McDowell| first = Colin| title = McDowell's Directory of Twentieth Century Fashion| publisher = Frederick Muller| year = 1984| pages =299–301| isbn =0-584-11070-7}}
3. ^Mulvagh, Jane, [https://www.independent.co.uk/news/obituaries/eleanor-lambert-548881.html Obituary of Eleanor Lambert], published in The Independent, October 9, 2003
4. ^{{cite book| last = McDowell| first = Colin| title = McDowell's Directory of Twentieth Century Fashion| publisher = Frederick Muller| year = 1984| pages =302| isbn =0-584-11070-7}}
5. ^{{cite news|last1=Roe|first1=Dorothy|title=Fashion Critics Pick New Way to Serve Breakfast Oatmeal|url=https://www.newspapers.com/clip/2059765/the_progress/|accessdate=24 March 2015|work=The Progress (Clearfield, Pennsylvania)|agency=Associated Press|date=11 Sep 1952|via=Newspapers.com}}
6. ^Coty Awards discontinued after 4 decades, Daily News Record, June 1985
7. ^{{cite news |last1=Mara |first1=Margaret |title=Omar Kiam, Former MGM Designer, gets Fashion Award |url=https://www.newspapers.com/clip/1978388/the_brooklyn_daily_eagle/ |via=Newspapers.com |accessdate=13 March 2015 |work=The Brooklyn Daily Eagle |date=19 July 1946 |page=9}}
8. ^{{cite news|last1=Fegan|first1=Lois|title=Dress Parade|url=https://www.newspapers.com/clip/2752650/harrisburg_telegraph/|accessdate=5 July 2015|work=The Harrisburg Telegraph |via=Newspapers.com|date=2 October 1947}}
9. ^{{cite news|last1=Staff writer|title=Coty Awards Presented|url=https://www.newspapers.com/clip/3555084/tucson_daily_citizen/|accessdate=4 November 2015|work=Tucson Daily Citizen (Tucson, Arizona) |via=Newspapers.com|date=12 Oct 1965}}

External links

  • Coty Homepage
  • [https://web.archive.org/web/20060303225122/http://www.king5.com/sharedcontent/northwest/style/stories/NW_110404FAKcoty_fragrancesJM.245ad316.html "Coty marks 100 years, taking time to smell success"] – Associated Press article

6 : Fashion awards|American fashion|Awards established in 1943|1943 establishments in the United States|Awards disestablished in 1985|1985 disestablishments in the United States

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