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词条 Fashion capital
释义

  1. Definition of a fashion capital

  2. History

     20th century and beyond 

  3. Annual fashion capital rankings

     Commentary from Global Language Monitor about the 2017 edition of its annual fashion capital rankings   2018 Global Language Monitor fashion capital rankings  

  4. See also

  5. References

{{short description|City that influences fashion trends}}{{Use dmy dates|date=September 2015}}

A fashion capital is a city which has major influence on international fashion trends, and in which the design, production and retailing of fashion products, plus events such as fashion weeks, awards and trade fairs all generate significant economic output.

The cities considered the global "Big Four" fashion capitals of the 21st century are Milan, London, New York and Paris.[1]

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Definition of a fashion capital

A fashion capital assumes leadership role in clothing and design. In addition, fashion capitals usually have a broad mix of business, artistic, entertainment, cultural and leisure activities and are internationally recognized for having a unique and strong identity.[2] It has also been noted that the status of a fashion capital has become increasingly linked to a city's domestic and international profile.[3] Fashion capitals are also likely be part of a wider design scene, with design schools, fashion magazines and a local market of affluent consumers.[3]

Since the 16th century, Milan has been regarded as the Fashion Capital of the World. Nowadays, often the term fashion capital is used to describe the cities that hold fashion weeks, most prominently Milan, Paris, London and New York,[4][5][6][7][8] to showcase their industry.[9][10] Also various other cities host notable fashion events and are influential in global fashion.[11]

History

Historically, several cities have been, in turn, fashion capitals. During the Renaissance era, different city-states in what would become modern-day Italy were Europe's main trendsetters,[12] due to the cultural power they exerted in that period of time. This includes cities such as Florence, Milan, Rome, Naples, Genoa, and Venice.

Progressing into the late-16th century, with influence of the English Royal Court, London became a major city in European fashion. Similarly, due to the power of Spain at the period, the Spanish court started to influence fashion, making it a major centre. In the 17th century, as the Renaissance started to fade away, with the power of the French court under Louis XIV, Paris established itself as Europe's main fashion centre.[13]

During the 19th century, with the powerful British Empire and young Queen Victoria on the throne (from 1837), London once again became a major fashion leader.[14] However, it continued to look to Paris for stylistic inspiration, and the British 'father of haute couture' Charles Frederick Worth relocated to Paris in 1846. He did this to perfect and then commercialize his craft, also holding the first fashion shows and launching the concept of fashion labels there.[15]

20th century and beyond

During the Golden Twenties, Berlin was considered the vanguard fashion capital.[16]

Throughout the 20th century – but particularly after World War II – New York City rose in stature as a fashion capital, challenging the dominance of Paris with a different approach, especially in its development and popularization of sportswear as fashion during the 1940s and '50s.[17]

During the 1950s Italy rose in prominence again.[18] Florence re-emerged as a leading city in fashion,[19] although focus shifted to Milan from the 1970s on as leading design houses moved to the city.[20]

In the 1980s, Tokyo claimed its place as a fashion capital with a new generation of avant-garde designers, including Issey Miyake or Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons gaining worldwide attention, even if the fashion show were all in Paris. The fashion was radically different in both its use of textiles and in the way designers cut and draped.[21][22]

More recently, new fashion hubs have emerged worldwide, and the old order has faced challenges from all corners of the globe, including Africa, Australasia and South America.[23] Since 2007, Berlin has again been highlighted as an increasingly important centre for global fashion trends.[24][25]

A 2011 issue of Fashion Theory: Journal of Dress, Body and Culture explored the move away from the traditional dominance of five key cities (London, Milan, New York, Paris, Tokyo), with co-editor Lise Skov, suggesting what she described as a "poly-centric" fashion industry developing in the 21st century.[17]

Annual fashion capital rankings

An annual ranking of the leading fashion capitals is produced by Global Language Monitor, a US-based company that tracks trends through language use worldwide. The 2018 top-sixty three fashion capitals, according to its rankings, are listed below.[26][27]

Current (2018) CityPrevious (2017) Rank
1 New York City 1 {{steady}}
2 London 6 {{increase}} 4
3 Los Angeles 14 {{increase}} 11
4 Paris 2 {{decrease}} 2
5 Berlin 8 {{increase}} 3
6 Barcelona 3 {{decrease}} 3
7 Dubai 10 {{increase}} 3
8 Las Vegas 9 {{increase}} 1
9 Milan 4 {{decrease}} 5
10 Madrid 15 {{increase}} 5
11 Florence 13 {{increase}} 2
12 Melbourne 28 {{increase}} 16
13 Singapore 11 {{decrease}} 2
14 Monaco 49 {{increase}} 35
15 Mumbai 27 {{increase}} 13
16 Amsterdam 7 {{decrease}} 9
17 Tokyo 23 {{increase}} 6
18 Santiago 24 {{increase}} 6
19 Bali 16 {{decrease}} 3
20 Hong Kong 12 {{decrease}} 8
21 Prague 18 {{decrease}} 3
22 Shanghai 26 {{increase}} 4
23 Seoul 17 {{decrease}} 6
24 Bangkok 30 {{increase}} 6
25 Warsaw 31 {{increase}} 6
26 Vienna 25 {{decrease}} 1
27 Buenos Aires 20 {{decrease}} 7
28 Portland, Oregon 44 {{increase}} 16
29 Copenhagen 32 {{increase}} 3
30 Moscow 22 {{decrease}} 8
31 Washington, D.C. 21 {{decrease}} 10
32 São Paulo 35 {{increase}} 3
33 Frankfurt 45 {{increase}} 12
34 Rio de Janeiro 19 {{decrease}} 15
35 Sydney 34 {{decrease}} 1
36 New Delhi 51 {{increase}} 15
37 Dallas 38 {{increase}} 1
38 Kuala Lumpur 47 {{increase}} 9
39 Cape Town 42 {{increase}} 3
40 Abu Dhabi 40 {{steady}}
41 Montreal 55 {{increase}} 14
42 Mexico City 43 {{increase}} 1
43 Columbus 61 {{increase}} 18
44 Johannesburg 37 {{decrease}} 7
45 Austin 39 {{decrease}} 6
46 San Francisco 33 {{decrease}} 13
47 Saint Petersburg 41 {{decrease}} 6
48 Stockholm 29 {{decrease}} 19
49 Houston 54 {{increase}} 5
50 Vancouver 52 {{increase}} 2
51 Kraków 58 {{increase}} 7
52 Miami 48 {{decrease}} 4
53 Caracas 63 {{increase}} 10
54 Lagos 60 {{increase}} 6
55 Antwerpen 36 {{decrease}} 19
56 Atlanta 50 {{decrease}} 6
57 Chicago 53 {{decrease}} 4
58 Boston 46 {{decrease}} 12
59 Dakar 56 {{decrease}} 3
60 Toronto 59 {{decrease}} 1
61 Beirut 57 {{decrease}} 4
62 Accra 62 {{steady}}
63 Auckland Debut {{increase}}
Hiatus Rome 5 {{decrease}}

Commentary from Global Language Monitor about the 2017 edition of its annual fashion capital rankings

The current 2017 rankings now include 63 fashion capitals. There are three new fashion capitals from West Africa: Accra, Ghana; Dakar, Senegal; and Lagos, Nigeria. There is one new fashion capital from East Asia: Kuala Lumpur. There is one new fashion capital from the Middle East: Beirut, Lebanon. Before the various insurgencies in the region, Beirut was known as the Paris of the Middle East. There are two new fashion capitals from North America: Portland, Oregon known for its ‘weird’ culture, much like Austin, Texas and Columbus, and Ohio, known in the fashion world as the manufacturing headquarters of Henri Bendel, Victoria’s Secret, the Bath & Body Works, Abercrombie & Fitch (A&F), and others.

2018 Global Language Monitor fashion capital rankings

GLM published a 2018 list which saw New York City maintain its leadership.[28]

See also

  • Fashion week, for a partial list of cities with fashion weeks.
  • Fashion tourism

References

1. ^[https://web.archive.org/web/20141030145348/https://www.fashiondays.com/the-daily-issue/the-big-four-fashion-capitals-of-the-world/ The big four fashion capitals of the world]
2. ^Gemperli, Natalia. "Fashion World Mapper: Your City on the Trend Radar". Master Thesis, University of the Arts Zürich. June 2010.
3. ^1 {{cite news|last=Florida|first=Richard|title=The World's Leading Cities for Fashion|url=http://www.theatlanticcities.com/jobs-and-economy/2012/09/worlds-leading-cities-fashion/3182/|accessdate=2 May 2014|newspaper=The Atlantic Cities|date=7 September 2012}}
4. ^{{cite news|last=Armstrong|first=Lisa|title=Is there a future for Fashion Week?|url=http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/article/TMG10324975/Is-there-a-future-for-Fashion-Week.html|accessdate=2 May 2014|newspaper=Daily Telegraph|date=22 September 2013|deadurl=yes|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20140502190831/http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/article/TMG10324975/Is-there-a-future-for-Fashion-Week.html|archivedate=2 May 2014|df=dmy-all}}
5. ^{{cite book|last1=Bradford|first1=Julie|title=Fashion Journalism|publisher=Routledge|year=2014|page=129|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=H2xeBAAAQBAJ&pg=PA129}}
6. ^{{cite book|first=Susan|last=Dillon|title=The Fundamentals of Fashion Management|publisher= A&C Black|year=2011|page=115|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=3XFMAQAAQBAJ&pg=PA115}}
7. ^{{cite book|title=Unveiling Fashion: Business, Culture, and Identity in the Most Glamorous Industry|first=Frédéric|last=Godart|publisher=Palgrave Macmillan|year=2012|page=57|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=H0U0wsIIhMEC&pg=PA57}}
8. ^{{cite web|title=The Big Four : Fashion Capitals of the World|publisher=Fashion Days|date=5 February 2014|url=http://www.fashiondays.com/the-daily-issue/the-big-four-fashion-capitals-of-the-world/}}
9. ^{{cite web|title=The Big Four: Fashion capitals of the World|publisher=Fashion Days|date=5 February 2014|url=http://www.fashiondays.com/the-daily-issue/the-big-four-fashion-capitals-of-the-world/}}
10. ^{{cite news|title=The Figures Behind the Catwalk|first=Stephen|last=Heyman|date=1 October 2014|newspaper=New York Times|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2014/10/02/arts/international/the-figures-behind-the-catwalk.html?_r=0}}
11. ^{{cite web|title=Top fashion weeks around the world|url=https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/2011-top-fashion-weeks-around-the-world-paris-new-york-milan-tokyo-2174288.html|publisher=The Independent|accessdate=31 October 2014|date=2 January 2011}}
12. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.renaissance-spell.com/Renaissance-Fashion.html |title=Renaissance Fashion |publisher=Renaissance-spell.com |date=9 May 2007 |accessdate=2013-02-07}}
13. ^{{Citation | last = Godart | first = Frédéric | title = The power structure of the fashion industry: Fashion capitals, globalization and creativity | url = http://www.intellectbooks.co.uk/journals/view-Article,id=17684/ | journal = International Journal of Fashion Studies | volume = 1 | issue = 1| pages = 39–57 | date = 2014}}
14. ^{{cite web|last=Johnstone|first=Lucy|title=Corsets & Crinoline in Victorian Fashion|url=http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/c/corsets-and-crinolines-in-victorian-fashion/|publisher=V&A|accessdate=2 May 2014}}
15. ^{{cite news|last=staff|title=Worth|url=http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/Worth|accessdate=2 May 2014|newspaper=Vogue|deadurl=yes|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20140502165833/http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/Worth|archivedate=2 May 2014|df=dmy-all}}
16. ^{{cite web|last1=Schreiber|first1=Mathias|title=The Age of Excess: Berlin in the Golden Twenties|url=http://www.spiegel.de/international/germany/spiegel-series-on-berlin-history-the-golden-twenties-a-866383.html|publisher=SPIEGEL|accessdate=3 June 2014}}
17. ^1 {{cite web|title=Fashioning the City: Exploring Fashion Cultures, Structures and Systems|url=http://fashioningthecity.wordpress.com/call-for-papers/|publisher=Royal College of Art|accessdate=2 May 2014}}
18. ^{{cite news|last=Fearon|first=Francesca|title=Exhibition at London's V&A Museum to chronicle rise of Italian Fashion|url=http://www.scmp.com/lifestyle/fashion-watches/article/1459392/exhibition-londons-va-museum-chronicle-rise-italian|accessdate=2 May 2014|newspaper=South China Morning Post|date=31 March 2014}}
19. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.gbgiorgini.it/italianfashion.htm |title=the birth of italian fashion|publisher=Gbgiorgini.it|date=|accessdate=2013-02-07}}
20. ^{{cite book|last=Bruzzi|first=Stella|authorlink=Stella Bruzzi|title=Fashion Cultures Revisited 2013|date=2013|publisher=Routledge|location=Abingdon, Oxon|page=23|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=a0xJAgAAQBAJ&pg=PA23&lpg=PA23&dq=rise+of+Milan+fashion&source=bl&ots=HUM9Mfiwzp&sig=oBoh-nij6TjDK_wo3eblgQjhhPc&hl=en&sa=X&ei=rHFjU7zvHMXvPIvCgYAI&ved=0CDUQ6AEwAjgK#v=onepage&q=rise%20of%20Milan%20fashion&f=false|display-authors=etal}}
21. ^{{cite web|title=Japan Fashion Now|url=http://fitnyc.edu/8726.asp|work=2010–11|publisher=Fashion Institute of Technology|accessdate=2 May 2014}}
22. ^{{cite web|title=Miyake, Kawakubo, and Yamamoto: Japanese Fashion in the Twentieth Century|url=http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/jafa/hd_jafa.htm|publisher=Metrolopolitan Museum of Art|accessdate=2 May 2014}}
23. ^{{cite news|last=staff|title=2011 top fashion weeks around the world: Paris, New York, Milan, Tokyo...|url=https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/2011-top-fashion-weeks-around-the-world-paris-new-york-milan-tokyo-2174288.html|accessdate=2 May 2014|newspaper=The Independent|date=2 January 2011}}
24. ^{{cite web|last=Staff|title=Germany's fashion capital: the improbable rise of Berlin|url=http://www.fashionunited.co.uk/fashion-news/fashion/germanys-fashion-capital-the-improbable-rise-of-berlin-2012011713844|work=17 January 2012|publisher=Fashion United|accessdate=2 May 2014}}
25. ^{{cite news|last=Scholz|first=Kay-Alexander|title=The Phoenix of Fashion Rises in Berlin|url=http://www.dw.de/the-phoenix-of-fashion-rises-in-berlin/a-15673135|accessdate=2 May 2014|newspaper=Die Welt|date=18 January 2012}}
26. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.languagemonitor.com/fashion-capitals/new-york-bests-paris-for-2017-top-global-fashion-capital-title/|title=New York Bests Paris for 2017 Top Global Fashion Capital Title |publisher=Languagemonitor.com |date= |accessdate=25 March 2019}}
27. ^{{cite web|url=https://www.languagemonitor.com/global-english/new-york-takes-top-global-fashion-capital-award-while-paris-falls-to-no-4/|title=New York Takes Top Global Fashion Capital Award Paris Falls to No. 4|publisher=Languagemonitor.com |date= |accessdate=25 March 2019}}
28. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.languagemonitor.com/global-english/new-york-takes-top-global-fashion-capital-award-while-paris-falls-to-no-4/|title=New York Takes Top Global Fashion Capital Award Paris Falls to No. 4|last=admin|date=2018-09-10|website=The Global Language Monitor|language=en|access-date=2019-02-12}}
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