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John Clarke (mountaineer)

释义

Biography
Climbing accomplishments
Notes
References
External links

John Clarke, CM (February 25, 1945 – January 23, 2003) was a Canadian explorer, mountaineer, conservationist, and wilderness educator. He was born in Ireland to Brigit Ann Clarke (née Conway) and Thomas Kevin Clarke, and died in Vancouver, British Columbia of a brain tumor. From 1964 until his death in 2003 Clarke spent at least six months of each year on extended backcountry trips, usually into the Coast Mountains of British Columbia using the technique of dropping food caches from small planes along an intended route, then traveling that route for weeks at a time. His routes regularly led him along the high ridges and glaciated icefields of the west coast, and allowed him to make hundreds of first ascents of the many mountains along the way. Many of these trips exceeded 30 days in length, and were often done solo, simply because nobody could afford the time to accompany him.

Biography

Born in Ireland, Clarke moved to Canada with his parents at age 11, attending the Monastery School in Mission, British Columbia.

Some time in around 1964 Clarke began his forays into the Coast Mountains, and over the course of the next 39 years made an amazing 600 first ascents.

In 1994, during a multi-week traverse of the Kitlope region of the Coast Mountains, Randy Stoltmann, a good friend of Clarke's, was killed in an avalanche while attempting a summit.^[1] This was a turning point for Clarke. Stoltmann, already a noted conservationist and volunteer, had left a hole in the mountain community that Clarke stepped in to fill. He began his wilderness education efforts in memory of him.

In 1995, Clarke was the subject of a documentary called "Child of the Wind" by Canadian director and producer Bill Noble which won the Best film on Climbing at the 1995 Banff Mountain Film Festival.^[2]

In 1996, Clarke and Lisa Baile founded the Wilderness Education Program (WEP).

In 1997, Clarke, Chief Bill Williams (hereditary chief of the Squamish First Nation), and artist photographer Nancy Bleck founded the Uts'am Witness Project, providing an opportunity for city folk to reconnect with nature and to take part in a Coast Salish First Nations witness ceremony.

In 1998, because of his work and his knowledge of the Squamish First Nation Territory, Clarke was given the honor of being adopted into the nation, and was given the Coast Salish name "Xwexwsélkn" which means "mountain goat" (a reference to his shock of unruly, wooly white hair).

In July 2002, he became one of the few mountaineers in Canada to be inducted as a Member of the Order of Canada. He was also an honorary member of the Alpine Club of Canada and the British Columbia Mountaineering Club.

On January 23, 2003, Clarke died of a brain tumor, with his family at his side. He leaves wife Annette Clarke (née Lehnacker) and son Nicholas 'Skookum', as well as his parents Brigid and Kevin, his sister Cathaleen and his brother Kevin.

In 2012, Harbour Publishing released the book John Clarke Explorer of the Coast Mountains written by Lisa Baile. In October 2013 a book about the Uts'am Witness Project which Clarke co-founded was published by Figure 1 Publishing. Picturing Transformation Nexw-áyantsut features the photographic artwork of Nancy Bleck and was written Katherine Dodds with Bleck and Chief Bill Williams.

Climbing accomplishments

This is a partial list of first ascents. Many of the peak names are suggested, links are to mountain IDs in the Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia. Where a sub peak is separated by more than 1 km from the main peak (and is unnamed) it is referred to by the main peak name, the compass point and distance from the main peak. For instance, Interesting Mountain has a sub-peak Interesting NE6 which is 6 km from the main summit at bearing 245 degrees.

1967 Ossa Mountain West Ridge [https://web.archive.org/web/20070312221929/http://www.cs.ubc.ca/~durocher/trips/coast/ossa2005/ossa2005.html Picture] of summit register
1967 Manatee Peak
1967 Oluk Peak
1967 Dolphin Peak
1967 Remora Peak
1967 Gunsight Peak (In-SHUCK-ch Mountain)
1967 Mermaid Peak
1967 Albacore Peak
1968 Tenas Peak
1968 Tenas W1
1968 Nivalis Mountain
1968 Pelion Mountain NW Ridge
1968 Pelion Mountain NE Ridge
1968 Amicus Mountain NE ridge
1968 Amicus W1
1968 Ring Mountain
1969 Lillooet Mountain Southeast Ridge
1969 Porterhouse NE3
1969 Porterhouse NE4
1969 Moomin Peak
1969 Tigger Peak
1969 Channel Peak
1969 Little Ring Mountain
1969 Mt. Crerar - John Clarke, Barbara May Handford (Bernhardt) First Ascent
1971 Whitemantle Mountain
1971 Outlier Peak
1971 Nebula Peak
1971 Halkomelem Peak
1971 Katzie Mountain
1971 Stave Peak
1971 Old Pierre Mountain
1971 The Orphans
1971 Nimbus Peak
1971 Mount Abel
1971 Adieu Mountain
1971 Talon Peak
1971 The Lecture Cutters
1971 Piluk Peak
1971 Carcajou Peak
1971 Nannygoat Peak
1971 Old Pierre Mountain
1971 Stalo Mountain
1971 Comrade Peaks with large BCMC Party
1971 Skakala Peak
1971 Skayuk Peak
1972 Mount Stanton solo
1972 Stanton E5^[3] from E, via Hidden Mtn
1972 Abandoned Peak
1972 Dunvegan Peak
1972 Dunvegan N3
1972 Limelite Peak
1972 Ashlu Mountain West Ridge
1972 Mount Doolittle
1972 Doolittle E8
1972 Mount Boardman
1972 Elaho Mountain via West Ridge
1972 Bottiger Peak
1972 The Flames (Fire Spires)
1972 Deserted Peak
1972 Deserted N1
1972 Royal Mountain
1972 Hanging Peak South Face
1972 Wahkash Peak
1972 Nebula S1
1972 Mount Athelstan Bridge-Lillooet Divide
1972 Mount Ethelweard
1972 Ethelweard S1
1972 Mount Vanstone
1972 Mount Perkins
1972 Mount Oswald
1972 Oswald N2
1972 Racoon Mountain
1972 Totter Peak
1972 Mittelberg Mountain
1972 Mittelberg E3
1972 Forger Peak
1972 Mount Whiting
1972 Mount Ralph
1972 Pebble Peak
1972 Mount Pollock
1972 Mount Clendenning
1972 Corporal Mountain
1972 Guthrum SW3
1972 Thiassi SE3

1973 Mount Chapman
1973 Mount Heaney
1973 Kolos Peak during his first visit to the Ha-iltzuk
1973 Klisila Peak
1973 Shaman Peaks
1973 Wahshilas Peak
1973 Klinaklini Peak
1973 Hamatsa Peak
1973 Doran Peak
1973 Doran SE3
1974 Serov Peak
1974 Chimai Mountain
1974 Mount Delilah
1974 Sessel Mountain
1974 Sessel NW1
1974 Sessel E4
1975 Bucklin Peak
1975 Pointer Peak
1976 Polacca Peak^[4]
1976 Apple Peak (Peak 7539. Apple River Spires)^[4]
1976 Shaker Peak^[4]
1976 Shaker W6 W Ridge^[5]
1976 Shaker SW5 N Ridge^[4]
1976 Stafford Peak East Ridge^[6]
1976 Hidden Mountain
1976 Brig Peak
1976 Brig SW4 from N^[4]
1976 Clipper Peak^[4] NW Ridge
1976 Success Mountain From the North
1976 Success NE4
1977 Little Toba Peak
1977 Hunaechin Peak
1977 Blumlisalp Mountain
1977 Beach Mountain
1977 Breaker Peak
1977 Blackfin Peak
1977 Blackfin SE3 (Comber Peak)
1979 Sergeant Mountain
1982 Charnaud Towers highest summit only
1982 Montrose Peak^[7]
1982 Cobham Peak
1983 Mount Willoughby as part of a 29-day solo traverse of the Bella Coola area (Ha-iltzuk Icecap), including 8 days spent snowbound in a tent.
1983 Mount Storry
1984 Orford Tower
1984 Berkshire Peak
1984 Gravelines Peak
1984 Assini Peak
1984 Algard Peak
1984 Needle Peaks (Stinging Needle)^[8]
1984 Ironface Peak
1984 Nolan Peak
1984 Wiltshire Peak
1984 Warwick Peak
1984 Pillbox Peak
1984 Barkshack Peak
1984 Champion Mountain
1984 Chusan Peak
1984 Chusan SW3
1984 Chusan SW5
1984 Skwawka Peak
1984 Brighton NE0
1985 Martello Mountain the only first ascent in the Waddington Range
1985 Interesting Mountain^[9]
1985 Interesting N4
1985 Interesting NE2
1985 Interesting NE6
1985 Klite Peak
1985 Powell Head Peak
1986 Larson Peak
1986 Larson SE5
1988 Mount Job
1989 Rain Door Peak Northeast Ridge
1989 Mount Pitt South face of North Peak
1989 Mount Caspar First recorded ascent
1990 Arabella Peak East Face
1990 Mount Argyll
1991 The Meager Obelisk
1991 Benburb Peak Filer-Montrose Divide
1991 Arabella S6 (Argyll E)
1991 Snow Pillow Peak
1992 The Witness
1992 The Defendant Northwest Ridge
1995 Stagoo SW12
1995 Stagoo W4
1995 Stagoo NW4
1996 House Mountain 1st recorded ascent

Notes

1. ^{{Citation|title=Accident report on Randy Stoltmann's Death |year=1994 |publisher=Alpine Club of Canada |url=http://alpineclub-edm.org/accidents/accident.asp?id=1357 |format= |deadurl=yes |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20060503002453/http://alpineclub-edm.org/accidents/accident.asp?id=1357 |archivedate=May 3, 2006 }}
2. ^{{Citation| title =Banff Mountain Film Festival Winners| year = 1995| url = http://www.banffcentre.ca/mountainculture/archives/festivals/film/fest95.asp}}
3. ^CAJ'77, p4.
4. ^¹²³⁴⁵CAJ '77 p4, map p6
5. ^CAJ '77 p4, map p6
6. ^CAJ'77 p4; map p6
7. ^CAJ'83 pp43-48
8. ^CAJ, 1985 p. 13, referred to as Peak 8659
9. ^CAJ 1986

References

{{Citation|journal=The Canadian Alpine Journal |pages=4, 8 |year=1977 |url=http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/publications/caj.html |deadurl=yes |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20070210124728/http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/publications/caj.html |archivedate=2007-02-10 |df= }}
{{Citation|title=Accident report on Randy Stoltmann's Death |year=1994 |publisher=Alpine Club of Canada |url=http://alpineclub-edm.org/accidents/accident.asp?id=1357 |format= |deadurl=yes |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20060503002453/http://alpineclub-edm.org/accidents/accident.asp?id=1357 |archivedate=May 3, 2006 }}

External links

[https://web.archive.org/web/20071217205333/http://www.bivouac.com/ArxPg.asp?ArxId=1357 Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia Coast Mountains entry]
Wilderness Education Program (WEP) which John helped found
Pictures of John

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