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词条 Devils Tower
释义

  1. Origin of Name

  2. Geological history

     Theories of formation 

  3. Native American culture

  4. Recent history

  5. Climbing

  6. Wildlife

  7. See also

  8. References

  9. Bibliography

  10. External links

{{other uses|Devil's Tower (disambiguation)}}{{Use mdy dates|date=November 2016}}{{Infobox mountain
| name = Devils Tower
| other_name = Matȟó Thípila (Lakota)
| photo = SquareDevilsTower.jpg
| photo_size =
| photo_alt =
| photo_caption = Devils Tower, 2017
| elevation_ft = 5112
| elevation_ref = {{NAVD88}}[1]
| prominence_ft =
| prominence_ref =
| range = Bear Lodge Mountains, part of the Black Hills
| location = Crook County, Wyoming, United States
| coordinates = {{coord|44|35|25|N|104|42|55| W|region:US-WY_type:mountain|display = inline,title}}
| coordinates_ref = [2]
| topo = USGS Devils Tower
| type = Laccolith
| age =
| first_ascent = William Rogers and Willard Ripley, July 4, 1893
| easiest_route = Durrance Route
}}{{Infobox protected area
| name = Devils Tower National Monument
| iucn_category = III
| photo =
| photo_caption =
| map = USA
| relief = 1
| map_caption = Location in the United States
| location =
| nearest_city = Hulett, Wyoming
|coordinates = {{coord|44|35|26|N|104|43|0|W|display = inline}}
| area_acre = 1346
| area_ref = [3]
| established = {{start date|1906|September|24}}[4]
| visitation_num = 499,031
| visitation_year = 2017
| visitation_ref = [5]
| governing_body = National Park Service
| website = [https://www.nps.gov/deto Devils Tower National Monument]
}}

Devils Tower (also known as Bear Lodge Butte[6]) is a laccolithic butte composed of igneous rock in the Bear Lodge Mountains (part of the Black Hills) near Hulett and Sundance in Crook County, northeastern Wyoming, above the Belle Fourche River. It rises 1,267 feet (386 m) above the Belle Fourche River, standing 867 feet (265 m) from summit to base. The summit is 5,112 feet (1,559 m) above sea level.

Devils Tower was the first United States National Monument, established on September 24, 1906, by President Theodore Roosevelt.[7] The monument's boundary encloses an area of {{convert|1347|acres|ha}}.

In recent years, about 1% of the monument's 400,000 annual visitors climbed Devils Tower, mostly using traditional climbing techniques.[8]

Origin of Name

The name Devil's Tower originated in 1875 during an expedition led by Colonel Richard Irving Dodge, when his interpreter reportedly misinterpreted a native name to mean "Bad God's Tower".[9] All information signs in that area use the name "Devils Tower", following a geographic naming standard whereby the apostrophe is omitted.[10]

Native American names for the monolith include:

"Bear's House" or "Bear's Lodge" (or "Bear's Tipi", "Home of the Bear", "Bear's Lair"; Cheyenne, Lakota Matȟó Thípila, Crow Daxpitcheeaasáao "Home of Bears"[11]), "Aloft on a Rock" (Kiowa), "Tree Rock", "Great Gray Horn",[9] and "Brown Buffalo Horn" (Lakota Ptehé Ǧí).{{citation needed|date=January 2017}}

In 2005, a proposal to recognize several Native American ties through the additional designation of the monolith as Bear Lodge National Historic Landmark met with opposition from United States Representative Barbara Cubin, arguing that a "name change will harm the tourist trade and bring economic hardship to area communities".[12] In November 2014, one Arvol Looking Horse again proposed renaming the geographical feature "Bear Lodge", and submitted the request to the United States Board on Geographic Names. A second proposal was submitted to request that the U.S. acknowledge what it described as the "offensive" mistake in keeping the current name and to rename the monument and sacred site Bear Lodge National Historic Landmark. The formal public comment period ended in fall 2015. Local state senator Ogden Driskill opposed the change.[13][14] The name was not changed.[15]{{failed verification|date=September 2016}}

Geological history

The landscape surrounding Devils Tower is composed mostly of sedimentary rocks. The oldest rocks visible in Devils Tower National Monument were laid down in a shallow sea during the mid- to late-Triassic period, 225 to 195 million years ago. This dark red sandstone and maroon siltstone, interbedded with shale, can be seen along the Belle Fourche River. Oxidation of iron minerals causes the redness of the rocks. This rock layer is known as the Spearfish Formation.

Above the Spearfish Formation is a thin band of white gypsum, called the Gypsum Springs Formation. This layer of gypsum was deposited during the Jurassic period, 195 to 136 million years ago.

Created as sea levels and climates repeatedly changed, gray-green shales (deposited in low-oxygen environments such as marshes) were interbedded with fine-grained sandstones, limestones, and sometimes thin beds of red mudstone. This composition, called the Stockade Beaver member, is part of the Sundance Formation. The Hulett Sandstone member, also part of the Sundance Formation, is composed of yellow fine-grained sandstone. Resistant to weathering, it forms the nearly vertical cliffs that encircle the Tower.

During the Paleocene Epoch, 56 to 66 million years ago, the Rocky Mountains and the Black Hills were uplifted. Magma rose through the crust, intruding into the existing sedimentary rock layers.[16]

Theories of formation

{{refimprove section|date=July 2013}}

Geologists Carpenter and Russell studied Devils Tower in the late 19th century and came to the conclusion that it was formed by an igneous intrusion. Modern geologists agree that it was formed by the intrusion of igneous material, but not on exactly how that process took place. Several believe the molten rock composing the Tower might not have surfaced; others are convinced the tower is all that remains of what once was a large explosive volcano.

In 1907, geologist Nelson Horatio Darton and paleontologist C.C. O'Hara (of the South Dakota School of Mines) theorized that Devils Tower must be an eroded remnant of a laccolith.[17] A laccolith is a large mass of igneous rock which is intruded through sedimentary rock beds without reaching the surface, but makes a rounded bulge in the sedimentary layers above. This theory was quite popular in the early 20th century, since numerous studies had earlier been done on laccoliths in the Southwest.

Other theories have suggested that Devils Tower is a volcanic plug or that it is the neck of an extinct volcano. Some pyroclastic material of the same age as Devils Tower has been identified elsewhere in Wyoming.{{fact|date=October 2018}}

The igneous material that forms the Tower is a phonolite porphyry intruded about 40.5 million years ago,[18] a light to dark-gray or greenish-gray igneous rock with conspicuous crystals of white feldspar.[19] As the magma cooled, hexagonal (and sometimes 4-, 5-, and 7-sided) columns formed, each about six feet in diameter. As the rock continued to cool, the vertical columns shrank in width and cracks began to occur at 120-degree angles, generally forming compact 6-sided columns. The nearby Missouri Buttes, {{convert|3.5|mi|km}} to the northwest of Devils Tower, are also composed of columnar phonolite of the same age. Devils Postpile National Monument in California and Giant's Causeway in Northern Ireland, are also columnar basalt, which are superficially similar, but with columns typically {{convert|2|ft|m}} in diameter.

Devils Tower did not visibly protrude out of the landscape until the overlying sedimentary rocks eroded away. As the elements wore down the softer sandstones and shales, the more resistant igneous rock making up the tower survived the erosional forces. As a result, the gray columns of Devils Tower began to appear as an isolated mass above the landscape.

As rain and snow continue to erode the sedimentary rocks surrounding the Tower's base, more of Devils Tower will be exposed. Nonetheless, the exposed portions of the Tower still experience certain amounts of erosion. Cracks along the columns are subject to water and ice erosion. Erosion due to the expansion of ice along cracks and fractures within rock formations is common in colder climates, a prime example being the columnar “hoodoo” formations at Bryce Canyon National Park. Portions, or even entire columns, of rock at Devils Tower are continually breaking off and falling. Piles of broken columns, boulders, small rocks, and stones, called scree, lie at the base of the tower, indicating that it was once wider than it is today.[16]

Native American culture

{{refimprove section|date=April 2010}}

According to the Native American tribes of the Kiowa and Lakota, a group of girls went out to play and were spotted by several giant bears, who began to chase them. In an effort to escape the bears, the girls climbed atop a rock, fell to their knees, and prayed to the Great Spirit to save them. Hearing their prayers, the Great Spirit made the rock rise from the ground towards the heavens so that the bears could not reach the girls. The bears, in an effort to climb the rock, left deep claw marks in the sides, which had become too steep to climb. Those are the marks which appear today on the sides of Devils Tower. When the girls reached the sky, they were turned into the stars of the Pleiades.

Another version tells that two Sioux boys wandered far from their village when Mato the bear, a huge creature that had claws the size of tipi poles, spotted them, and wanted to eat them for breakfast. He was almost upon them when the boys prayed to Wakan Tanka the Creator to help them. They rose up on a huge rock, while Mato tried to get up from every side, leaving huge scratch marks as he did. Finally, he sauntered off, disappointed and discouraged. The bear came to rest east of the Black Hills at what is now Bear Butte. Wanblee, the eagle, helped the boys off the rock and back to their village. A painting depicting this legend by artist Herbert A. Collins hangs over the fireplace in the visitor's center at Devils Tower.

In a Cheyenne version of the story, the giant bear pursues the girls and kills most of them. Two sisters escape back to their home with the bear still tracking them. They tell two boys that the bear can only be killed with an arrow shot through the underside of its foot. The boys have the sisters lead the bear to Devils Tower and trick it into thinking they have climbed the rock. The boys attempt to shoot the bear through the foot while it repeatedly attempts to climb up and slides back down leaving more claw marks each time. The bear was finally scared off when an arrow came very close to its left foot. This last arrow continued to go up and never came down.[20]

Wooden Leg, a Northern Cheyenne, related another legend told to him by an old man as they were traveling together past the Devils Tower around 1866–1868. An Indian man decided to sleep at the base of Bear Lodge next to a buffalo head. In the morning he found that both he and the buffalo head had been transported to the top of the rock by the Great Medicine with no way down. He spent another day and night on the rock with no food or water. After he had prayed all day and then gone to sleep, he awoke to find that the Great Medicine had brought him back down to the ground, but left the buffalo head at the top near the edge. Wooden Leg maintained that the buffalo head was clearly visible through the old man's spyglass. At the time, the tower had never been climbed and a buffalo head at the top was otherwise inexplicable.[21]

The buffalo head gives this story special significance for the Northern Cheyenne. All the Cheyenne maintained in their camps a sacred teepee to the Great Medicine containing the tribal sacred objects. In the case of the Northern Cheyenne, the sacred object was a buffalo head.[22]

Recent history

Fur trappers may have visited Devils Tower, but they left no written evidence of having done so. The first documented Caucasian visitors were several members of Captain William F. Raynolds' 1859 expedition to Yellowstone. Sixteen years later, Colonel Richard I. Dodge escorted an Office of Indian Affairs scientific survey party to the massive rock formation and coined the name Devils Tower.[23] Recognizing its unique characteristics, the United States Congress designated the area a U.S. forest reserve in 1892 and in 1906 Devils Tower became the nation's first National Monument.[24]

The 1977 movie Close Encounters of the Third Kind used the formation as a plot element and as the location of its climactic scenes.[25][26] Its release was the cause of a large increase in visitors and climbers to the monument.[27]

Climbing

{{Main|Durrance Route}}

In recent years, climbing Devils Tower has increased in popularity. The first known ascent of Devils Tower by any method occurred on July 4, 1893, and is accredited to William Rogers and Willard Ripley, local ranchers in the area. They completed this first ascent after constructing a ladder of wooden pegs driven into cracks in the rock face. A few of these wooden pegs are still intact and are visible on the tower when hiking along the {{convert|1.3|mi|km|adj=on}} Tower Trail at Devils Tower National Monument. Over the following thirty years many climbs were made using this method before the ladder fell into disrepair.

The first ascent using modern climbing techniques was made by Fritz Wiessner with William P. House and Lawrence Coveney in 1937. Wiessner led almost the entire climb free, placing only a single piece of fixed gear, a piton, which he later regretted, deeming it unnecessary.

In 1941 George Hopkins parachuted onto Devils Tower, without permission, as a publicity stunt resulting from a bet. He had intended to descend by a 1,000 ft (300 m) rope dropped to him after successfully landing on the butte, but the package containing the rope, a sledge hammer and a car axle to be driven into the rock as an anchor point slid over the edge. As the weather deteriorated, a second attempt was made to drop equipment, but Hopkins deemed it unusable after the rope became snarled and frozen due to the rain and wind. Hopkins was stranded for six days, exposed to cold, rain and 50 mph (80 km/h) winds before a mountain rescue team led by Jack Durrance, who had successfully climbed Devils Tower in 1938, finally reached him and brought him down.[28][29] His entrapment and subsequent rescue was widely covered by the media of the time.[30]

Today, hundreds of climbers scale the sheer rock walls of Devils Tower each summer. The most common route is the Durrance Route, which was the second free route established in 1938. There are many established and documented climbing routes covering every side of the tower, ascending the various vertical cracks and columns of the rock. The difficulty of these routes range from relatively easy to some of the most challenging in the world. All climbers are required to register with a park ranger before and after attempting a climb. No overnight camping at the summit is allowed; climbers return to base on the same day they ascend.[31]

The Tower is sacred to several Plains tribes, including the Lakota, Cheyenne and Kiowa. Because of this, many Indian leaders objected to climbers ascending the monument, considering this to be a desecration. The climbers argued that they had a right to climb the Tower, since it is on federal land. A compromise was eventually reached with a voluntary climbing ban during the month of June when the tribes are conducting ceremonies around the monument. Climbers are asked, but not required, to stay off the Tower in June. According to the PBS documentary In the Light of Reverence, approximately 85% of climbers honor the ban and voluntarily choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. However, several climbers along with the Mountain States Legal Foundation sued the Park Service, claiming an inappropriate government entanglement with religion.[32]

Wildlife

Devils Tower National Monument protects many species of wildlife, such as white-tailed deer, prairie dogs, and bald eagles.[33][34]

See also

  • The strata of Fossil Butte National Monument, {{Convert|360|mi|-1}} southwest of Devils Tower, were formed in the Eocene, {{Ma|56|34}}.

Four areas of Devils Tower National Monument are on the National Register of Historic Places:

  • Entrance Road
  • Entrance Station
  • Old Headquarters Area Historic District
  • Tower Ladder

References

1. ^{{cite peakbagger |pid=6220 |name=Devils Tower, Wyoming |access-date=December 14, 2012}}
2. ^{{cite gnis |id=1609083 |name=Devils Tower |access-date=December 14, 2012}}
3. ^{{NPS area |year=2011 |access-date=May 13, 2012}}
4. ^{{cite wikisource |title=Proclamation 658: Setting aside Devils Tower National Monument, Wyoming |wslink=Proclamation 658 |date=24 September 1906}}
5. ^{{NPS visitation |access-date=February 20, 2019}}
6. ^"Mato Tipila, or Bear's Lodge, the stunning monolith of stone in northeastern Wyoming that settlers dubbed 'Devil's Tower.'" Jason Mark, Satellites in the High Country: Searching for the Wild in the Age of Man (2015), [https://books.google.com/books?id=-5x4CgAAQBAJ&pg=PA166#v=onepage&q&f=false p. 166]."Devil's Tower, beyond the Black Hills, forms the Buffalo's Head, with the face, Bear Butte as the Buffalo's Nose, and Inyan Kaga as the Black Buffalo Horn." Jessica Dawn Palmer, The Dakota Peoples: A History of the Dakota, Lakota and Nakota through 1863 (2011), [https://books.google.com/books?id=vRAQm175ii0C&pg=PA203#v=onepage&q&f=false p. 203]
7. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.nps.gov/deto/historyculture/upload/First%2050%20Years.pdf|title=Devils Tower First 50 Years|publisher=National Park Service|accessdate=October 11, 2014|deadurl=no|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20090531175438/http://www.nps.gov/deto/historyculture/upload/First%2050%20Years.pdf|archivedate=May 31, 2009|df=}}
8. ^Devils Tower NM – Final Climbing Management Plan {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111110034346/http://www.nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/loader.cfm?csModule=security%2Fgetfile&PageID=514740 |date=November 10, 2011 }} National Park Service, page 4, February 1995, accessed March 13, 2009
9. ^"Why is it called Devils Tower? Some Indians called it Mato Tipila, meaning Bear Lodge. Other American Indian names include Bear's Tipi, Home of the Bear, Tree Rock and Great Gray Horn. In 1875, on an expedition led by Col. Dodge, it is believed his interpreter misinterpreted the name to mean Bad God's Tower, later shortened to Devils Tower." NPS Frequently Asked Questions, accessed July 22, 2008
10. ^"Since its inception in 1890, the U.S. Board on Geographic Names has discouraged the use of the possessive form—the genitive apostrophe and the 's'. The possessive form using an 's' is allowed, but the apostrophe is almost always removed. The Board's archives contain no indication of the reason for this policy." {{cite web|url=http://geonames.usgs.gov/domestic/faqs.htm|title=USGS Frequently Asked Questions, #18|publisher=United States Geological Survey|access-date=November 29, 2012}}
11. ^{{cite web| title = Little Big Horn College Library| access-date = June 5, 2012| url = http://lib.lbhc.edu/placenames.php?q=Daxpitcheeaas%E1ao&d=&s=&submit=Go}}
12. ^{{cite web |url=http://www.house.gov/cubin/news/2005/March08e.html |title=Cubin Fights Devils Tower Name Change |access-date=July 22, 2008 |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20081226230212/http://www.house.gov/cubin/news/2005/March08e.html |archivedate=December 26, 2008}}
13. ^{{cite news |url=http://www.rapidcityjournal.com/news/local/request-made-to-change-devils-tower-name-to-bear-lodge/article_2be46b92-2f67-5808-bf6d-b73710def9d7.html | newspaper = Rapid City Journal | access-date = July 19, 2015 | date = June 22, 2015 | agency = Associated Press | title = Request made to change Devils Tower name to Bear Lodge }}
14. ^{{cite news|last1=Hancock|first1=Laura|title=Proposal could rename Devils Tower to Bear Lodge (with PDFs)|url=http://trib.com/news/state-and-regional/govt-and-politics/proposal-could-rename-devils-tower-to-bear-lodge-with-pdfs/article_5e2c2b46-7dd8-5e2f-8c1a-b340163eeda9.html|access-date=September 24, 2015|work=Casper Star-Tribune|date=June 20, 2015|location=Casper, WY}} PDFs include "Bear Lodge name change proposal" and "National Park Service information on name change"
15. ^See http://geonames.usgs.gov/index.html
16. ^National Park Service: Devils Tower: Geologic Formations
17. ^{{cite web |last1=Chavis |first1=Jason |title=Facts on the Devils Tower in Wyoming |url=https://traveltips.usatoday.com/devils-tower-wyoming-5176.html |publisher=USA Today |accessdate=22 December 2018 |date=21 Mar 2018}}
18. ^{{Cite journal| doi = 10.1126/science.134.3487.1373| issn = 0036-8075| volume = 134| issue = 3487| pages = 1373–1373| last = Bassett| first = W. A.| title = Potassium-Argon Age of Devils Tower, Wyoming| journal = Science| date = October 1961| bibcode = 1961Sci...134.1373B| pmid=17807346}}
19. ^Woolley, A. R. (1987) Alkaline Rocks and Carbonatites of the World, Part 1: North and South America, London, British Museum (Natural History), page 126
20. ^Marquis, pp. 53–54
21. ^Marquis, pp. 54–55
22. ^Marquis p. 106 and p. 152
23. ^{{cite book|last=Dodge|first=Richard|title=The Black Hills journals of Colonel Richard Irving Dodge|year=1996|publisher=University of Oklahoma Press|isbn=0-8061-2846-1|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ggv-JLih54AC&printsec=frontcover&source=gbs_atb#v=onepage&q&f=false|editor=Wayne R. Kime|page=6}}
24. ^{{cite web|title=Listing of National Park System Areas by State |url=http://www.nps.gov/history/history/online_books/nps/nps/part2.htm#deto |publisher=National Park Service |access-date=June 30, 2011 |deadurl=yes |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20110629022806/http://www.nps.gov/history/history/online_books/nps/nps/part2.htm |archivedate=June 29, 2011 }}
25. ^{{cite web |url=http://www.filmsite.org/clos.html |title=Close Encounters of the Third Kind (1977) |author= |date= |work=Filmsite |access-date=November 3, 2011}}
26. ^Warren Buckland, Directed by Steven Spielberg: Poetics of The Contemporary Hollywood Blockbuster, pages 111–129 (New York: The Continuum International Publishing Group Inc, 2006). {{ISBN|978-0-8264-1691-9}}
27. ^Allen Carlson, Nature and Landscape: An Introduction to Environmental Aesthetics, p.122, Columbia University Press, 2009 {{ISBN|023114041X}}.
28. ^John Darwin Dorst, Looking West, p.202, University of Pennsylvania Press, 1999 {{ISBN|0812214404}}.
29. ^[https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=6zwcAAAAIBAJ&sjid=01oEAAAAIBAJ&pg=4384,3275166 "Parachutist gains five pounds while stranded on rock"], The Victoria Advocate, October 7, 1941.
30. ^See for instance, [https://select.nytimes.com/gst/abstract.html?res=FA0915F73A5B147B93C5A9178BD95F458485F9 "Alpinists bring down man on Devil's Tower; 'rather go back than face crowd,' he says"], The New York Times, p. 25, October 7, 1941.{{subscription required}}
31. ^devilstowerclimbing.com
32. ^[https://web.archive.org/web/20040820181334/http://www.sacredland.org/ITLOR_pages/three_stories.html Sacred Land Film Project], Devils Tower.
33. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.nps.gov/deto/learn/nature/mammals.htm|title=Mammals - Devils Tower National Monument (U.S. National Park Service)|website=www.nps.gov|language=en|accessdate=February 20, 2019}}
34. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.nps.gov/deto/learn/nature/birds.htm|title=Birds — Devils Tower National Monument (U.S. National Park Service)|website=www.nps.gov|language=en|accessdate=February 20, 2019}}

Bibliography

{{anchor|Marquis}}
  • Marquis, Thomas B. (2003). A Warrior Who Fought Custer. Lincoln, Neb.: University of Nebraska Press, Bison Books. {{ISBN|0-8032-8288-5}}. {{OCLC|52423964|57065339}}. {{Google books|BU13wAL8bdEC|Wooden Leg: A Warrior Who Fought Custer}}.
  • Darton, Nelson Horatio (1909). [https://pubs.usgs.gov/pp/0065/report.pdf Geology and water resources of the northern portion of the Black Hills and adjoining regions in South Dakota and Wyoming] U.S. Geological Survey Professional Paper 65 (1909). {{doi|10.3133/pp65}}

External links

{{Commons category|Devils Tower National Monument}}{{wikivoyage}}
  • Devils Tower National Monument — National Park Service
  • {{Internet Archive short film|id=gov.ntis.ava14709vnb1|name=Tower of Stone}} — public domain, produced by National Park Service.
  • 450 megapixel high-resolution photo of Devils Tower
{{Protected areas of Wyoming}}{{National Monuments of the United States}}{{National Register of Historic Places}}{{Black Hills, South Dakota}}{{Native Americans in the Black Hills}}

24 : Devils Tower National Monument|Rock formations of Wyoming|Volcanoes of Wyoming|Archaeological sites in Wyoming|Black Hills|Climbing areas of the United States|Kiowa|Lakota|Lakota mythology|Religious places of the indigenous peoples of North America|Natural monoliths|Sacred mountains|Volcanic plugs of the United States|Volcanism of Wyoming|Paleocene volcanism|Properties of religious function on the National Register of Historic Places in Wyoming|Natural history museums in Wyoming|Museums in Crook County, Wyoming|Protected areas of Crook County, Wyoming|National Park Service National Monuments in Wyoming|American folklore|1906 establishments in the United States|Landforms of Crook County, Wyoming|National Register of Historic Places in Crook County, Wyoming

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