| 词条 | Olivia Giacobetti |
| 释义 |
| pre-nominals = | name = | post-nominals = | image = OliviaGiacobetti.jpg | image_upright = | alt = Olivia Giacobetti at her perfumer's lab table | caption = Olivia Giacobetti | native_name = | native_name_lang = | pronunciation = | birth_name = | birth_date = {{Birth year and age|1966}} | birth_place = | residence = Paris, France | nationality = | other_names = | citizenship = | education = | alma_mater = | occupation = Perfumer | years_active = c. 1982–present | era = | employer = | organization = | known_for = | notable_works = Dzing! En Passant Philosykos Premier Figuier | style = | home_town = | party = | movement = | boards = | spouse = | partner = | children = | parents = | mother = | father = | relatives = | family = | callsign = | awards = | website = }} Olivia Giacobetti (born 1966) is a French perfumer. She has an independent line called Iunx and has also created fragrances for Diptyque, L'Artisan Parfumeur, Guerlain, and Hermès, among other lines. She is particularly known for a refined style as well as innovation such as her novel use of fig in perfumery, popularizing the note beginning in the mid-1990s. She is among the perfumers who became prominent in a late-20th and early-21st-century turn toward the "nose" behind the scent and independent lines that foreground these creators, a shift away from perfumes sold by fashion labels or celebrities in other fields. Early lifeOlivia Giacobetti was born in 1966.[1] Her father Francis Giacobetti is an artist.[2][3] Olivia Giacobetti was first drawn to perfumery at nine years old when she saw the Jean-Paul Rappeneau film Lovers Like Us, in which Yves Montand played a perfumer.[4] CareerGiacobetti began working in perfumery for Annick Goutal when she was 16 years old.[1] She joined French fragrance and flavor firm Robertet the following year and worked there for seven years as an assistant perfumer.[1] Giacobetti started her own company, Iskia, in 1990,[5] then aged 24.[1] Working out of a garden-laboratory in Paris's ninth arrondissement, she began taking commissions from lines like L'Artisan Parfumeur, Diptyque, and Hermès.[4] In March 2003,[10] backed by Japanese cosmetics conglomerate Shiseido,[1] Giacobetti started her own line of perfumes as well as candles and body products, called Iunx.[12] Located in a large boutique at 48–50,[10] rue de l’Université in Paris that Giacobetti developed with her father Francis,[6] the original ambition was to create 60 scents,[10] but the line struggled to find an audience and closed after two years.[1] However, beginning in 2006 Iunx products were made available in a boutique in Hôtel Costes in Paris, where Giacobetti had also created the house signature scent in 1995, one of the first hotels to make such a commission.[7] In 2016, Giacobetti opened a new Iunx boutique at 13, rue de Tournon in Paris.[8] In 2017, Giacobetti developed a line of five candles in collaboration with the Comédie-Française.[9] Style and impact on perfumeryGiacobetti drew recognition early in her career for developing the use of fig as a note in perfume,[4] particularly in 1994 fragrance Premier Figuier for L'Artisan Parfumeur[10][11] and the 1996 Philosykos for Diptyque (the line's best-seller),[23] both scents inspired by the fig tree;[12] numerous other lines followed suit with fig fragrances of their own in the latter part of the decade.[13] In Perfumes: The Guide, Luca Turin writes, "Premier Figuier was the fragrance that put Olivia Giacobetti on the map, and deservedly so: its fig-leaf note...was an overdue natural in perfumery, and pleasantly jarring."[14] Among Giacobetti's best-known creations is En Passant,[15] a subtle but innovative floral fragrance that combines lilac with notes of wheat and cucumber to evoke spring rain on fresh flowers.[16][17] In The Guide, Turin's co-author Tania Sanchez calls En Passant "a perfect example of Olivia Giacobetti's tendency...a fine white-on-white painting."[18] Launched in 2000 by French niche perfume line Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle,[19] the fragrance was part of a turn toward the recognition of the perfumer behind the scent, with Malle including not only the name of the perfume and brand on his bottles' labels, but also the "nose" who created the fragrance.[17] In turn, Giacobetti is among the perfumers who have raised the profile and sales of such independent and niche perfume lines, where (with a few exceptions) fashion labels and celebrity licensees previously dominated the perfume market.[20] En Passant was featured in a 2017 exhibit on contemporary perfumery at Somerset House in London.[21] Giacobetti also received acclaim for her 1999 creation L'Artisan Parfumeur Dzing!,[22] a scent inspired by Paris's Cirque d'Hiver. Discussing Dzing! in The New York Times, Chandler Burr called the perfume "one of the most innovative, authentically strange scents of the past two decades", managing to combine diverse aromas of sawdust, circus animals, caramel apples and more into "a comforting, subtly succulent mix."[23] Burr writes: "Dzing! plays subtle purity against subtle power; it's fresh without green (a trick that takes serious perfumer talent to pull off), sweet without sugar (ditto), warm and soft like a plank of newly sawed pine still warm from the blade."[24] Turin gave the perfume five stars in The Guide, saying "Olivia Giacobetti is at her imaginative, humorous best, and Dzing! is a masterpiece."[25] Giacobetti's scents are generally mixed-media, employing both natural and lab-developed synthetic ingredients. She describes these elements as "indissociable", with potent synthetic ingredients providing the fragrance's "spine" and natural ingredients adding "nuances".[26] An exception to Giacobetti's mixed-media practice are her fragrances for Honoré des Prés, an all-naturals line.[27] Personal lifeGiacobetti lives in Paris.[4] She has a daughter, born in 1996.[4] Perfumes{{divcol}}Diptyque
Honoré des Prés
Iunx
L'Artisan Parfumeur
Miscellaneous
References1. ^1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 {{Cite news|url=https://www.cosmopolitan.fr/,olivia-giacobetti,1899688.asp|title=Olivia Giacobetti, grand nom de la parfumerie|last=|first=|date=14 September 2017|work=Cosmopolitan.fr|access-date=23 August 2018|language=fr}} {{authority control}}{{DEFAULTSORT:Giacobetti, Olivia}}2. ^Verner, Amy (2011) "[https://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/fashion-and-beauty/beauty/beauty-features/blotting-paper-20-have-you-sniffed-perfume-on-driftwood-lately/article2042039/ Blotting paper 2.0: Have you sniffed perfume on driftwood lately?]", The Globe and Mail, 4 June 2011 3. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.numero.com/fr/beaute/francis-giacobetti-%20s-expose-chez-iunx|title=Francis Giacobetti expose chez Iunx|date=19 September 2017|work=Numéro Magazine|access-date=23 August 2018|language=fr}} 4. ^1 2 3 4 {{Cite news|url=http://www.lefigaro.fr/scope/articles-quartier/2009/05/20/08003-20090520ARTFIG00007-olivia-giacobetti-et-son-ix-e-cameleon-.php|title=Olivia Giacobetti et son IXe caméléon|last=de Santis|first=Sophie|date=20 May 2009|work=Le Figaro|access-date=23 August 2018|language=fr-FR|issn=0182-5852}} 5. ^1 2 3 4 Hamilton, Denise (2011) "Found In Translation: Olivia Giacobetti uses her sensory alchemy to make scents of memories", LA Times, March 2011, retrieved 26 June 2011 6. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.forbes.fr/lifestyle/iunx-fragrances-de-niche-incontournables/?cn-reloaded=1|title=Iunx: Fragrances De Niche Incontournables|last=Pellegrino|first=Katya|date=4 January 2017|work=Forbes France|access-date=23 August 2018|language=fr-FR}} 7. ^1 {{Cite news|url=https://www.lemonde.fr/m-styles/article/2018/05/18/les-hotels-creent-leur-parfum_5301161_4497319.html|title=Les hôtels créent leur parfum|last=Dhouailly|first=Claire|date=18 May 2018|work=Le Monde.fr|access-date=23 August 2018|language=fr-FR}} 8. ^1 {{Cite news|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/best-new-places-to-buy-perfume-in-paris|title=The Best New Places to Buy Perfume in Paris|last=Hartman|first=Eviana|date=2 October 2016|work=Vogue|access-date=23 August 2018|language=en}} 9. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.numero.com/fr/beaute/olivia-giacobetti-bougies-la-com%C3%A9die-fran%C3%A7aise|title=Coup de coeur pour les bougies d'Olivia Giacobetti pour la Comédie-Française|last=|first=|date=4 December 2017|work=Numéro Magazine|access-date=23 August 2018|language=fr}} 10. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/lartisan-parfumeur-fragrance-bucoliques-de-provence|title=3 L’Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances That Are Destined to Become Your Signature Scent|last=Ellenberg|first=Celia|date=22 April 2016|work=Vogue|access-date=23 August 2018|language=en}} 11. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.lemonde.fr/disparitions/article/2011/11/18/pionnier-du-renouveau-des-parfums-artisanaux-jean-francois-laporte-s-est-eteint_1606145_3382.html|title=Pionnier du renouveau des parfums artisanaux, Jean-François Laporte, s’est éteint|last=Boisserie|first=Béatrice|date=18 November 2011|work=Le Monde.fr|access-date=23 August 2018|language=fr-FR}} 12. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.lemonde.fr/m-styles/article/2017/11/04/les-maitres-parfumeurs-des-stars-courtisees-par-les-marques_5210063_4497319.html|title=Les maîtres parfumeurs, des stars courtisées par les marques|last=Dhouailly|first=Claire|date=11 April 2017|work=Le Monde.fr|access-date=23 August 2018|language=fr-FR}} 13. ^{{Cite news|url=https://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/05/29/scent-notes-leau-des-hesperides-by-diptyque/|title=Scent Notes {{!}} L'Eau des Hespérides by Diptyque|last=Burr|first=Chandler|date=29 May 2008|work=T Magazine|access-date=23 August 2018|language=en-US|quote=Their brilliant Philosykos, created in 1996 for Diptyque by Olivia Giacobetti, is often credited with the late 1990s fig craze.}} 14. ^{{Cite book|title=Perfumes: The Guide|last=Turin|first=Luca|last2=Sanchez|first2=Tania|publisher=Viking|year=2008|isbn=978-0-670-01865-9|location=|pages=293}} 15. ^{{Cite news|url=http://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/10802/a-collection-of-super-clean-fragrances-to-usher-in-spring|title=A Collection of Super Clean Fragrances to Usher in Spring|last=Bew|first=Sophie|date=1 May 2018|work=AnOther|access-date=23 August 2018|language=en}} 16. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.grazia.it/bellezza/profumi/profumi-femminili-delicati|title=Profumi femminili delicati: lillà, violetta ed eliotropio|last=Merlo|first=Francesca|date=22 June 2018|work=Grazia|access-date=23 August 2018|last2=Fusè|first2=Laura Elena|language=it-IT}} 17. ^1 {{Cite news|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/women/life/stagnant-water-charcoal-semen-10-smells-changed-perfume-industry/|title=Stagnant water, charcoal, semen... 10 smells that changed the perfume industry|last=Steafel|first=Eleanor|date=20 June 2017|work=The Telegraph|access-date=23 August 2018|language=en-GB|issn=0307-1235}} 18. ^{{Cite book|title=Perfumes: The Guide|last=Turin|first=Luca|last2=Sanchez|first2=Tania|publisher=Viking|year=2008|isbn=978-0-670-01865-9|location=|pages=162}} 19. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/do-you-have-a-signature-fragrance|title=Do You Have A Signature Fragrance?|last=Niven-Phillips|first=Lisa|date=30 May 2018|work=Vogue UK|access-date=23 August 2018}} 20. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.smh.com.au/lifestyle/fashion/message-in-a-bottle-indie-perfumes-are-the-new-scentsation-20101204-18ksu.html|title=Message in a bottle: 'Indie' perfumes are the new scent-sation|last=Wells|first=Rachel|website=The Sydney Morning Herald|language=en-US|access-date=23 August 2018|date=2010-12-04}} 21. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/somerset-house-perfume-exhibition|title=For Your To-Do List: Perfume, At Somerset House|last=Niven-Phillips|first=Lisa|date=22 June 2017|work=Vogue UK|access-date=23 August 2018}} 22. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.wallpaper.com/lifestyle/parisian-pedigree-lartisan-parfumeur-relaunches-its-classic-fragrance-brand|title=Parisian pedigree: L’Artisan Parfumeur relaunches its classic French fragrance line|last=Stocks|first=Christopher|date=18 May 2016|work=Wallpaper|access-date=23 August 2018}} 23. ^{{Cite news|url=https://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2009/05/07/scent-notes-the-beat-by-burberry/|title=Scent Notes {{!}} The Beat by Burberry|last=Burr|first=Chandler|date=7 May 2009|work=T Magazine|access-date=23 August 2018|language=en-US}} 24. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2006/10/08/magazine/the-remix-scent-strip-building-blocks.html|title=The Remix: Scent Strip; Building Blocks|last=Burr|first=Chandler|date=8 October 2006|work=The New York Times|access-date=23 August 2018|language=en}} 25. ^{{Cite book|title=Perfumes: The Guide|last=Turin|first=Luca|last2=Sanchez|first2=Tania|publisher=Viking|year=2008|isbn=978-0-670-01865-9|location=|pages=147}} 26. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.lemonde.fr/m-styles/article/2016/12/31/parfums-le-synthetique-c-est-fantastique_5055960_4497319.html|title=Parfums : le synthétique, c’est fantastique|last=Dhouailly|first=Claire|date=31 December 2016|work=Le Monde.fr|access-date=23 August 2018|language=fr-FR}} 27. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/best-organic-perfume-natural-perfume|title=10 Natural Perfumes That Are Changing the Fragrance Game|last=Wagoner|first=Mackenzie|date=4 April 2016|work=Vogue|access-date=23 August 2018|language=en}} 28. ^1 2 3 4 {{Cite news|url=https://www.cosmopolitan.fr/,5-nez-5-odeurs-qu-ils-detestent,1899597.asp|title=5 nez & 5 odeurs qu’ils détestent|last=|first=|date=18 September 2017|work=Cosmopolitan.fr|access-date=23 August 2018|language=fr}} 29. ^{{Cite news|url=https://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/10/20/vain-glorious-diptyque-turns-50/|title=Vain Glorious {{!}} Diptyque Turns 50|last=Chang|first=Katie|date=20 October 2011|work=T Magazine|access-date=23 August 2018|publisher=The New York Times|language=en-US}} 30. ^1 {{cite news |last1=Boisserie |first1=Béatrice |title=Diptyque tout feu tout flamme |url=https://www.lemonde.fr/m-styles/article/2011/11/04/diptyque-tout-feu-tout-flamme_1598019_4497319.html |accessdate=23 August 2018 |work=Le Monde.fr |date=4 November 2011 |language=fr-FR}} 31. ^1 {{Cite web|url=http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/alltherage/2011/10/-your-stylist-all-natural-and-organic-perfumes.html|title=Your Stylist: All-natural and organic perfumes|last=Magsaysay|first=Melissa|date=17 October 2011|website=LA Times Blogs - All The Rage|language=en-US|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|access-date=23 August 2018}} 32. ^1 {{Cite news|url=https://www.thestar.com/life/2012/09/14/luxury_cosmetic_store_the_detox_market_comes_to_town_beauty_spot.html|title=Luxury cosmetic store The Detox Market comes to town: Beauty Spot|last=Delap|first=Leanne|date=14 September 2012|work=Toronto Star|access-date=23 August 2018|language=en}} 33. ^1 2 3 {{Cite news|url=http://www.elle.fr/Beaute/Parfums/Tendances/L-interview-pro-d-Olivia-Giacobetti-la-slow-parfumeuse-2983249|title=L'interview pro d'Olivia Giacobetti, la slow parfumeuse|last=|first=|date=13 September 2015|work=Elle|access-date=23 August 2018|language=fr-FR}} 34. ^{{Cite news|url=http://madame.lefigaro.fr/style/la-revolution-naturelle-du-parfum-210417-131910|title=Formules bio, odeurs naturelles : la révolution du parfum|last=Petry|first=Valentine|date=24 April 2017|work=Madame Figaro|access-date=23 August 2018|language=fr-FR}} 35. ^1 {{Cite news|url=http://archive.wikiwix.com/cache/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lexpress.fr%2Fstyles%2Fmode-beaute%2Fbeaute%2F3-questions-a-olivia-giacobetti_485893.html|title=3 questions à Olivia Giacobetti|last=Marcowith|first=Martine|date=23 May 2005|work=L'Express|access-date=23 August 2018}} 36. ^1 2 3 4 5 "Olivia Giacobetti", L'Artisan Parfumeur, retrieved 26 June 2011 37. ^1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 {{cite book |last1=Le Guérer |first1=Annick |title=Parfum (Le): Des origines à nos jours |date=2005 |publisher=Odile Jacob |isbn=9782738116703 |page=322 |url=https://books.google.com/?id=nwNCnERRQuEC&lpg=PA322&dq=L'Artisan%20Fleur%20de%20Carotte%20(2000)&pg=PA322#v=onepage&q=L'Artisan%20Fleur%20de%20Carotte%20(2000)&f=false |accessdate=23 August 2018 |language=fr}} 38. ^Burr, Chandler (2006) "[https://select.nytimes.com/gst/abstract.html?res=FA0610F93C540C7B8CDDA90994DE404482 The Remix: Scent Strip; Building Blocks]", New York Times, 8 October 2006, retrieved 26 June 2011 39. ^{{cite news |title=Candles in the bin? Not this Christmas... |url=https://www.standard.co.uk/lifestyle/health/candles-in-the-bin-not-this-christmas-8993003.html |accessdate=24 August 2018 |work=Evening Standard |date=9 December 2013}} 40. ^{{cite news |last1=Meurisse |first1=Yasmine |title=Parfum : 7 eaux florales pour l'été - Beauté |url=http://www.mariefrance.fr/beaute/270610-270610.html#item=3 |accessdate=23 August 2018 |work=Marie France, magazine féminin |date=23 June 2016 |language=fr-FR}} 41. ^{{cite book |last1=Grainger |first1=Nathalie |title=Quintessentially Perfume |date=2010 |publisher=Quintessentially Publishing |isbn=9780955827068 |page=137 |url=https://books.google.com/?id=e_46gh0ddVIC&lpg=PA137&dq=olivia%20giacobetti%20lubin&pg=PA137#v=onepage&q=olivia%20giacobetti%20lubin&f=false |language=en}} 42. ^Giovannini, Joseph (2002) "[https://www.nytimes.com/2002/11/03/style/a-blithe-fragrance-descends-from-paris.html A Blithe Fragrance Descends From Paris]", New York Times, 3 November 2002, retrieved 26 June 2011 43. ^{{cite news |last1=Maloney |first1=Nora |title=The Best Mother’s Day Gifts for 2017 |url=https://www.vanityfair.com/style/2017/05/the-best-mothers-day-gifts-for-2017 |accessdate=24 August 2018 |work=Vanity Fair |date=5 May 2017 |language=en}} 44. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2002/11/03/style/a-blithe-fragrance-descends-from-paris.html|title=A Blithe Fragrance Descends From Paris|last=Giovannini|first=Joseph|date=2002|work=The New York Times|access-date=23 August 2018|language=en}} 45. ^{{cite news |last1=Wagoner |first1=Mackenzie |title=Byredo Flowerhead Perfume: This Is What the Month of May Should Smell Like |url=https://www.vogue.com/article/byredo-flowerhead-spring-perfume |accessdate=23 August 2018 |work=Vogue |date=2 May 2014 |language=en}} 46. ^{{Cite news|url=https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/gallery/the-fragrance-foundation-awards-2015-indie-fragrance-of-the-year/#!2/indie-frag-oty-02|title=The Fragrance Foundation Awards 2015: Indie Fragrance of the Year|last=Staff|first=WWD|date=17 June 2015|work=WWD|access-date=23 August 2018|language=en-US}} 4 : Perfumers|French women in business|Living people|1966 births |
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