词条 | Poke bonnet |
释义 |
A poke bonnet (sometimes also referred to as a Neapolitan bonnet) is a women's bonnet, featuring a small crown and wide and rounded front brim. Typically this extends beyond the face. It has been suggested that the name came about because the bonnet was designed in such a way that the wearer's hair could be contained within the bonnet.[1] Poke may also refer to the brim itself, which jutted out beyond the wearer's face.[2] CharacteristicsThere were many variations of the style, which remained popular throughout much of the 19th century.[3] The Metropolitan Museum of Art notes that the poke usually had a small crown combined with a large brim extending beyond the face, providing a large surface for decoration.[4] This prominent brim shaded the face and, over time increased in size so that the wearer's face could only be seen from the front.[5] Typically, the bonnet would be secured by ribbons tied under the chin, which might also wrap around the bottom of the bonnet's crown, similar to a hatband. An 1830s version of the poke bonnet with ornate ribbon wrapping forms part of the Victoria and Albert Museum archive.[6] History of the designThe poke bonnet came into fashion at the beginning of the 19th century. It is first mentioned in an 1807 fashion report in The Times; the report describes designs made of willow or velvet with long ribbons and full bows on one side of the hat.[7] By the 1830s, Englishwomen had adopted the poke bonnet. The new styles became widely popular and made the aristocracy less visibly distinct from the respectable middle classes.[8] The style is modest and was in line with English fashions after the ascension of Queen Victoria.[9] A poke bonnet features prominently in the illustrations of Beatrix Potter's Tale of Jemima Puddle-Duck. Another appears in the First World War-era music hall song "In your little poke bonnet and shawl".[10] See also
References1. ^{{cite web|title=Poke Bonnet|url=https://www.nga.gov/collection/gallery/iadcost/iadcost-15044.html|website=nga.gov|publisher=National Gallery of Art|accessdate=23 July 2015}} {{commons category|Bonnets}}{{hats}}{{Use dmy dates|date=April 2017}}2. ^{{cite web|title=Poke|url=http://www.collinsdictionary.com/dictionary/english/poke#poke_2|website=collinsdictionary.com|publisher=Collins Dictionary|accessdate=23 July 2015}} 3. ^{{cite book|last1=Brooks Picken|first1=Mary|title=A Dictionary of Costume and Fashion: Historic and Modern|publisher=Dover Publications|location=United States|isbn=0486402940|page=27|edition=1999|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=CbOI4TCcnbQC&pg=PA27&lpg=PA27&dq=coal+scuttle+bonnet&source=bl&ots=adutksHjBJ&sig=3Z0OggflCuEcH6ARzeYWuVcY0b4&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CDcQ6AEwBDgKahUKEwj-36CJj-_GAhX0F9sKHZyhAgc#v=onepage&q=coal%20scuttle%20bonnet&f=false|accessdate=22 July 2015}} 4. ^{{cite web|title=Poke bonnet|url=http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/156141|website=metmuseum.org|publisher=Metropolitan Museum of Art|accessdate=22 July 2015}} 5. ^{{cite web|title=Poke bonnet|url=http://www.britannica.com/topic/poke-bonnet|website=britannica.com|publisher=Encyclopædia Britannica|accessdate=23 July 2015}} 6. ^{{cite web|title=Poke Bonnet|url=http://www.vam.ac.uk/users/node/17324|website=vam.ac.uk|publisher=Victoria and Albert Museum|accessdate=23 July 2015}} 7. ^{{cite news|title=Fashions for November|issue=7219|publisher=The Times|date=1 December 1807|ref=pg.3}} 8. ^{{cite book |title=Sacred to Female Patriotism: Gender, Class, and Politics in Late Georgian Britain |author=Judith S. Lewis |year=2003 |page=184 |isbn=0415944112}} 9. ^Metropolitan Museum of Art, Mourning Poke Bonnet Collection. 10. ^{{cite web|title=1914, English, Printed music edition: In your little poke bonnet and shawl / written and composed by Alf. J. Lawrance. [music]|url=http://trove.nla.gov.au/work/152402772?versionId=166109924|website=trove.nla.gov.au|publisher=National Library of Australia|accessdate=23 July 2015}} 4 : Women's clothing|Bonnets (headgear)|19th-century fashion|Hats |
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