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词条 Salcantay
释义

  1. History

  2. Mountaineering

     Mountaineering history 

  3. See also

  4. References

  5. Further reading

{{Infobox mountain
| name = Salcantay
| photo = Salcantay Stevage.jpg
| photo_caption = View from the southwest.
| map = Peru | map_caption = Peru
| location = Cusco Region, Peru
| label_position = left
| coordinates = {{coord|13|20|01|S|72|32|40|W|type:mountain_region:PE_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}
| elevation_m = 6271
| elevation_ref = [1][2][3][4] or {{Convert|6264|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}[4][5]
| prominence = {{Convert|2540|m|ft|-1}}
| prominence_ref = [4][5]
| listing = Ultra
| range = Vilcabamba, Andes[3][6][5][7][8]
| topo =
| range_coordinates =
| coordinates_ref =
| first_ascent = August 4, 1952 by Fred D. Ayres, David Michael, Jr., W. V. Graham Matthews, George Irving Bell, Claude Kogan, M. Bernard Pierre
| easiest_route = Northeast ridge: technical glacier/snow/ice climb (French grade AD)[6]
| map_size = 220
|photo_size = 240|
|
}}

Salcantay,[9] Salkantay or Sallqantay (in Quechua) is the highest peak in the Vilcabamba mountain range, part of the Peruvian Andes. It is located in the Cusco Region, about {{convert|60|km|mi|-1|abbr=on}} west-northwest of the city of Cusco. It is the 38th-highest peak in the Andes, and the twelfth-highest in Peru. However, as a range highpoint in deeply incised terrain, it is the second most topographically prominent peak in the country, after Huascarán.

Salcantay's proximity to Machu Picchu makes trekking around it an alternative to the oversubscribed Inca Trail; this is known as the Salkantay trek.

History

The name Salkantay is from sallqa, a Quechua word meaning wild, uncivilized, savage, or invincible, and was recorded as early as 1583.[10]

The name is thus often translated as "Savage Mountain".

Directly to the north of Salkantay lies Machu Picchu, which is at the end of a ridge that extends down from this mountain. Viewed from Machu Picchu's main sundial, the Southern Cross is above Salkantay's summit when at its highest point in the sky during the rainy season. The Incas associated this alignment with concepts of rain and fertility, and considered Salkantay to be one of the principal deities controlling weather and fertility in the region west of Cuzco.[11]

Mountaineering

Salcantay is a large, steep peak with great vertical relief, particularly above the low valleys to the north, which are tributaries of the Amazon River.

The standard route on the mountain is the Northeast ridge. Accessing the route typically involves three days of travel from Cusco. The climb involves about {{convert|1800|m|ft|-2|abbr=on}} of vertical gain, on glacier, snow, ice, and some rock.[6].

Mountaineering history

Salcantay was first climbed in 1952 by a French-American expedition comprising Fred D. Ayres, David Michael, Jr., John C. Oberlin, W. V. Graham Matthews, Austen F. Riggs, George Irving Bell, Claude Kogan, M. Bernard Pierre, and Jean Guillemin. All except Oberlin, Riggs, and Guillemin reached the summit.[12] Two years later Fritz Kasparek fell through a cornice near the summit on the NE ridge.{{citation needed|date=May 2012}}

On June 17, 2013 Nathan Heald (USA), Thomas Ryan (USA), and Luis Crispin (Peru) made the summit at 10:30am after nine hours of climbing from a high camp at 5,500 m. on the NE ridge. This makes Crispin the first Peruvian climber to summit the mountain. The team took a reading of 6,279 m, S 13° 20.027’, W 72° 32.596’, on a GPS device.[13] On July 31, 2013 a second team led by Nathan Heald (USA), consisting of James Lissy (USA) and Edwin Espinoza Sotelo (Peru) made the summit by the NE ridge. This makes Heald the only person to have summited the mountain twice.[14] Due to glacial retreat, the route is now calculated to be graded D on the French adjectival scale.

{{Expand section|date=May 2008}}

See also

  • Padreyoc or Quishuar
  • List of mountains in Peru, all peaks above 6,000 metres

References

1. ^This elevation is from a Peruvian military survey, quoted in the American Alpine Journal, 1973
2. ^INEI, Perú: Compendio Estadístico 2005, op. cit.
3. ^Encarta/Spanish, "Cordillera Vilcabamba" and "Salcantay", op. cit.
4. ^Ferranti 2005, "Peru ultra-Prominences", op. cit.
5. ^Peakbagger, "Salcantay, Peru", op. cit.
6. ^Biggar 2005, op. cit.
7. ^INEI, Perú: Compendio Estadístico 2005, op. cit., attaches three peaks including the Salcantay to the Cordillera Vilcanota instead of Vilcabamba, but this was identified as a typo, and all other sources disagreed. Details in the endnotes to article "List of mountains in Peru".
8. ^Rachowiecki 1991, op. cit.
9. ^{{Cite book|title=Peru 1:100 000, Machupicchu (27-q)|last=|first=|publisher=IGN (Instituto Geográfico Nacional - Perú)|year=|isbn=|location=|pages=|via=}}
10. ^{{cite web | title = Exploring the Inca Heartland | url = http://www.archaeology.org/online/features/peru/mountains.html | publisher = Archaeological Institute of America | last = Rose | first = Mark | date = 1999-09-01}}
11. ^{{cite journal |title = Sacred Mountains, Ceremonial Sites, and Human Sacrifice Among the Incas. |last = Reinhard |first = Johan |author2 = Ceruti, Constanza |year = 2005 |journal = Archaeoastronomy: The Journal of Astronomy in Culture |volume = 19 |pages = 1–43 |url = http://www.utexas.edu/utpress/journals/jarch.html#XIX |deadurl = yes |archiveurl = https://web.archive.org/web/20100412103019/http://www.utexas.edu/utpress/journals/jarch.html#XIX |archivedate = 2010-04-12 |df = }}
12. ^John C. Oberlin and W. V. Graham Matthews, "The First Ascent of Mount Salcantay", American Alpine Journal, 1953, pp. 387-396.
13. ^ ,
Diario de la Republica, 27 June 2013
14. ^https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5GR-mkHbOxE,
Barrabes, Revista de Esqui y Montaña, 3 October 2013

Further reading

  • {{cite book

| author = Biggar, John
| year = 2005
| title = The Andes: a guide for climbers
| location = Scotland
| publisher = Andes Publishing
|page=112
| isbn = 0-9536087-2-7
}}
  • {{cite web

| author = Encarta/Spanish
| date = 2007
| title = Cordillera Vilcabamba
| language = Spanish
| work = Enciclopedia Microsoft
| url = http://es.encarta.msn.com/encyclopedia_961535950/Cordillera_Vilcabamba.html
| accessdate = 2007-08-18
| quote = Su máxima elevación es el pico Salcantay o Sarkantay (6.271 m) [...]
|archiveurl = https://web.archive.org/web/20071123095528/http://es.encarta.msn.com/encyclopedia_961535950/Cordillera_Vilcabamba.html |archivedate = 2007-11-23}}
  • {{cite web

| author = Encarta/Spanish
| date = 2007
| title = Salcantay
| language = Spanish
| work = Enciclopedia Microsoft
| url = http://es.encarta.msn.com/encyclopedia_961535895/Salcantay.html
| accessdate = 2007-08-18
| quote = [...] constituye una de las principales elevaciones de la cordillera de Vilcabamba, [...] Alcanza una altitud de 6.271 metros.
|archiveurl = https://web.archive.org/web/20090601110826/http://es.encarta.msn.com/encyclopedia_961535895/Salcantay.html |archivedate = 2009-06-01}}
  • {{cite web

| author = Ferranti, Jonathan de (compiler)| year = 2005
| title = Peru ultra-Prominences
| publisher = Peaklist.org
| url = http://www.PeakList.org/WWlists/ultras/peru.html
| accessdate = 2007-08-18
|display-authors=etal}}
  • {{cite book

| author = Instituto Nacional de Estadística e Informática, Perú
| year = 2005
| title = Perú: Compendio Estadístico 2005
| location = Lima
| publisher = INEI
| language = Spanish
|page=22
| id =

}} – Also stored at List of mountains in Peru.

  • {{cite web

| author = Peakbagger
| date = 2007
| title = Salcantay, Peru
| work = Peakbagger.com
| url = http://www.peakbagger.com/peak.aspx?pid=8487
| accessdate = 2007-08-18
}}
  • {{cite book

| author = Rachowiecki, Rob
| year = 1991
| title = Peru: a travel survival kit
| location = Hawthorn, Australia
| publisher = Lonely Planet Publications
|page=206
| isbn = 0-86442-095-1
}}
  • {{cite web

| author = Responsible People | year = 2009
| title = Salkantay Trek Devastation and Animal Exploitation
| publisher = Responsiblepeople.org
| url = https://www.responsiblepeople.org/en/blog/salkantay-trek-destruction-and-animal-exploitation
| accessdate = 2019-01-30
|display-authors=etal}}{{wikivoyage|Salkantay trail}}{{Commons category|Inca road system}}

3 : Mountains of Peru|Mountains of Cusco Region|Six-thousanders of the Andes

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