| 词条 | Spectator shoe |
| 释义 |
The spectator shoe, also known as co-respondent shoe, is a style of low-heeled, oxford, semi-brogue or full brogue constructed from two contrasting colours, typically having the toe and heel cap and sometimes the lace panels in a darker colour than the main body of the shoe.{{Sfn|Drummond|2010}}{{Sfn|Matthes|2006|p=263}}{{Sfn|Schur|Ehrlich|Ehrlich|2007|p=87}} This style of shoe dates from the nineteenth century but reached the height of popularity during the 1920s and 1930s.{{Sfn|Benstock|Ferriss|2001|p=49}} DescriptionCommon colour combinations include a white shoe body with black, brown or tan toe and heel caps, but other colours can be used. The spectator is typically an all leather shoe, but can be constructed using a canvas, mesh or suede body. The spectator was originally constructed of willow calf leather and white buck or reverse calf suede. The white portion was sometimes made from a mesh material, for better ventilation in hot weather.{{Citation needed|date=November 2010}} Saddle shoeThe saddle shoe, another style of two-tone oxford shoe, can be distinguished from the spectator shoe by noting the saddle shoe's plain toe and distinctive, saddle-shaped decorative panel placed mid foot. Origin of nameJohn Lobb, the famous English footwear maker, claimed to have designed the first spectator shoe as a cricket shoe in 1868.{{Citation needed|date=November 2010}} In the 1920s and 1930s in England, this style was considered too flamboyant for a gentleman, and therefore was called a tasteless style. Because the style was popular among lounge lizards and cads, who were sometimes associated with divorce cases, a nickname for the style was co-respondent shoe, a pun on the colour arrangement on the shoe, and the legal description of a third party caught in flagrante delicto with the guilty party in a case of adultery. Wallis Simpson was famed for wearing this style, although it was said that she was an adulteress and that it was Edward VIII who acted the part of co-respondent.[1] In televisionIn the 1920s crime drama, "Boardwalk Empire", the character Enoch "Nucky" Thompson, can be seen wearing spectators, especially in the opening credits sequence.[2] See also
Notes1. ^World Wide Words: co-respondent shoes 2. ^{{cite web|last1=HBO|title=Boardwalk Empire|url=https://www.hbo.com/boardwalk-empire|accessdate=22 April 2018}} References{{Refbegin}}
| editor1-first = Shari | editor1-last = Benstock | editor2-first = Suzanne | editor2-last = Ferriss | title = Footnotes: on shoes | url = https://books.google.com/books?id=tUK8BP7OOJQC | accessdate = 2010-11-04 | year = 2001 | publisher = Rutgers University Press | location = Piscataway, New Jersey, United States of America | isbn = 978-0-8135-2870-0 | quote = This kind of men's decorative shoe dates from the late nineteenth century but became popular in the 1920s and 1930s. | ref = harv }}
| url = http://www.footwearhistory.com/resourcesglossary.shtml | title = History of Footwear - Resources - Glossary | first = Sharon | last = Drummond | year = 2010 | work = History of Footwear | publisher = Ryerson University | archiveurl = https://www.webcitation.org/5tEn0nV3V | archivedate = 2010-11-04 | accessdate = 2010-11-04 | quote = Brogue: A laced shoe with many sections, which are punched and serrated around the edges. | ref = harv }}
| last = Matthes | first = Betsy Durkin | title = Dressing the Man You Love: A Woman's Guide to Purchasing, Coordinating, and Caring for His Classic Wardrobe | url = https://books.google.com/books?id=qA1v1ZLuf-kC | accessdate = 2010-11-04 | edition = 1st | year = 2006 | publisher = Peter's Pride Publishing | location = Shelter Island, New York, United States of America | isbn = 978-0-9773878-3-0 | quote = A two-toned oxford shoe with either semi- or full- brougueing. | ref = harv }}
| last1 = Schur | first1 = Norman W. | last2 = Ehrlich | first2 = Eugene H. | last3 = Ehrlich | first3 = Richard | title = British English A to Zed | url = https://books.google.com/books?id=7nWODyE7n50C | accessdate = 2010-11-04 | edition = Third, revised and updated | origyear = 1987 | year = 2007 | publisher = Facts On File, Inc. | location = New York, New York, United States of America | isbn = 978-0-8160-6456-4 | quote = The flashy, disreputable type, usually in brown and white | ref = harv }}{{Refend}} External links{{commons|Category:Spectator shoes}}{{shoe-stub}}{{Footwear}} 5 : Shoes|History of fashion|1930s fashion|1920s fashion|1940s fashion |
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