词条 | Cycle chic |
释义 |
Cycle chic or bicycle chic refers to cycling in fashionable everyday clothes. The fashion concept developed in popular culture to include bicycles and bicycle accessories as well as clothing.[1][2] The phrase Cycle Chic was coined in 2007[3][4][5][6][7][8][9][10] by Mikael Colville-Andersen, who started the Copenhagen Cycle Chic blog in the same year. HistoryCycle Chic is a modern phrase to describe something that has existed since the invention of the bicycle in the 1880s - regular citizens on bicycles. Cycling was fashionable from the late 1880s and through the 1940s. At the end of the 19th century, the height of cycle chic was to play polo on bicycles, using long-handled tennis rackets and rubber balls.[11] Women's wear (such as corsets and petticoats) was impractical for cycling and so rational dress was required.[12] Divided skirts, bloomers and knickerbockers were tried as fashionable women attempted to resolve the matter without provoking hostility, ridicule or violence.[13] More recently, in the 1980s bicycle messengers became a common sight on the streets of major cities, and the messengers' mix of street fashion and cycling gear was seen as an alternative fashion statement.[14] In 1995, Vibe magazine, owned by Quincy Jones, listed brands that had "infiltrated" cycling such as Dolce & Gabbana, DKNY and FILA with cycle chic.[15] This clothing shares little with the contemporary perception of the phrase, however, as it was more focused the bicycle messenger crowd. Around the time that Mikael Colville-Andersen coined the phrase Cycle Chic, the bicycle had largely disappeared from the public consciousness as a transport option, at least in many North American cities, though that was not the case in northern Europe. The first photo taken by Mikael Colville-Andersen in 2006, which led to the Copenhagen Cycle Chic blog and the global trend has been referred to as "The Photo That Launched a Million Bicycles".[4][16][17][18][19] The current bicycle boom in transportation and fashion has its roots in this one photo. IBM's Smarter Planet have documented the birth and growth of the Cycle Chic trend using advanced analytic software - from its origins in Copenhagen through 2012.[20] Today cycle chic is associated with the American phrase utility cycling, people cycling to get around, not just for exercise or at sporting events. It is particularly associated with wearing everyday clothes with an emphasis on stylish dressing.[21] Cycle chic is especially prominent in cities with many bicycle-commuters such as Amsterdam and Copenhagen but the number of Cycle Chic blogs around the world indicates that the interest is global in nature. Official and unofficial blogs encourage cyclists to dress up, as a way of raising the profile of cycling and to encourage others to feel they can cycle without helmets and the specialist clothing associated with sports cycling. Articles in the media promote fashionable cycling by publishing photographs of celebrities such as Agyness Deyn riding bikes.[22][23] Bicycles and accessoriesVintage bicycles dating back to the 1950s and 60s are especially seen as appropriate, with their mudguards, chain guard, carriers, baskets and lights all contributing to their usefulness. The point is to be able to cycle casually without special protection, with shopping or pets, even with a passenger riding on the rack (although that is illegal in some countries).[24] Models mentioned in various early 21st century media include vintage Schwinns, three-speed Raleighs, the Velorbis,[1][2] and the new-vintage models made by Pashleys and Brooklyn Bicycle Co., all bicycles which incorporate classic vintage features.[25] The Scandinavian type of cargo bike, capable of carrying large loads or several small children, is becoming more popular in other countries influenced by the trend. Picking up on the cycle chic trend early on, various fashion houses like Chanel and Gucci designed their own bicycles.[2] Bicycle helmets are notably absent from the official Copenhagen Cycle Chic website, not because Danish people do not wear helmets (although most don't) but as a matter of policy associated with the Cycle Chic® trademark. The policy is promoted on the basis that the evidence does little to support the idea that helmets increase safety, and that they discourage people from cycling. WebsitesThe term cycle chic is associated with many related blogs picturing people, especially women, cycling in stylish everyday clothes. There are over 100 Cycle Chic blogs and most of them are associated with the community formed around the original blog, Copenhagen Cycle Chic,[26] dubbed "the Sartorialist on two wheels" and selected as one of the ten best fashion blogs by The Guardian.[27] The company Copenhagenize Design Co.[28] in Copenhagen, holds the Copenhagen Cycle Chic and Copenhagenize.com blogs as well as the Cycle Chic territorial trademark in the United States[29] and Brazil and encourages usage "for the idealistic purpose of non-commercial bicycle advocacy",[30] as described in a manifesto[31] A list of women's bike blogs worldwide[32] includes links to many of the officially affiliated Cycle Chic blogs, as well as to others that also cover biking and fashion. See also
References1. ^1 {{cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2010/09/30/fashion/30BICYCLE.html|title=Bicycle Chic Gains Speed|work=The New York Times|date=2010-09-29|accessdate=2011-07-13|first=Ruth|last=La Ferla}} 2. ^1 2 {{cite news|title=Cycle chic|publisher=The Australian|date=August 6, 2010|accessdate=2011-07-13|url=http://www.theaustralian.com.au/news/features/cycle-chic/story-e6frg8h6-1225902227493}} 3. ^{{cite news|url=http://oglobo.globo.com/sociedade/movimento-cycle-chic-que-defende-pedalar-com-estilo-ganha-as-ruas-do-rio-14923553 | title = Movimento ‘cycle chic’, que defende pedalar com estilo, ganha as ruas do Rio | newspaper=O Globo | location=Rio de Janeiro | date=2014-12-28 | language=Portuguese | accessdate = 2011-11-01}} 4. ^1 {{cite web|url=http://urbantimes.co/2013/08/mikael-colville-andersen-the-modern-day-jane-jacobs/ | title = Mikael Colville-Andersen - The Modern Day Jane Jacobs | last=Payne | first=Tom | publisher=Urban Times | date=2013-08-26 | accessdate = 2014-08-08}} 5. ^{{cite news|url=http://www.smh.com.au/executive-style/fitness/on-your-bike/mikael-colvilleandersen-australian-cycling-is-the-farthest-behind-in-this-conversation-20140917-10huax.html | title= Mikael Colville-Andersen: Australian cycling is 'the farthest behind in this conversation' | last=O'Reilly | first=Michael | date=2014-09-27 | newspaper=Sydney Morning Herald | location=Sydney | accessdate=2014-12-21}} 6. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.abc.net.au/news/2014-05-30/australia-plays-catch-up-modern-urban-planning-bike-lanes/5488538 | title= Australian cities 'playing catch-up' on modern urban planning and bike lanes, Velo-City conference told | date=2014-06-01 | last=Sexton | first=Mike | publisher=Australian Broadcasting Corp. | location=Adelaide | accessdate=2014-12-21}} 7. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.nightlife.ca/2011/06/02/cycle-chic-denmarks-bicycle-ambassador-bringing-sexy-back-cycling | title= Cycle Chic: Denmark's bicycle ambassador is bringing sexy back to cycling | date=2011-06-02 | last=Harding | first=Oliver-Michael | publisher=Nightlife.ca | location=Montreal | accessdate=2014-12-21}} 8. ^{{cite news|url=https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2008/sep/04/fashion | title = The Guardian - Cycling is officially chic | accessdate = 2011-11-01 | location=London | first=Rebecca | last=Nicholson | date=2008-09-03}} 9. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.inframe.tv/people/mikael-colville-andersen.html?v=2013 | title = Inframe.tv - Interview with - Mikael Colville-Andersen, Cycle Chic | publisher=InFrame.tv | location=Melbourne | accessdate = 2011-12-21}} 10. ^{{cite news|url=https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/what-your-bicycle-says-about-you-2285365.html | title= What your bicycle says about you | date=2011-05-18 | last=Walker | first=Harriet | newspaper=The Independent | location=London | accessdate=2014-12-26}} 11. ^{{citation|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=xE-GAAAAIAAJ|pages=272|title=Crusades and crinolines|author=Ishbel Ross|publisher=Harper & Row|year=1963}} 12. ^{{citation |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=EgqkLrQEbfMC&pg=PA34 |year=1999 |title=The 1900s |isbn=978-1-896990-70-5 |author=Elizabeth Salomons}} 13. ^{{citation|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=vphcHONAXmwC|pages=117|title=Fashion and Its Social Agendas|author=Diana Crane|isbn=978-0-226-11799-7|year=2001}} 14. ^{{cite journal | title = Street Smart | journal = Spin | volume = 354 | issue = 6310 | date = October 1989 | pages = 65| id = | url = https://books.google.com/?id=O5KWH9rNuE4C&lpg=PA65&dq=bicycle%20messengers%20fashion%2080s&pg=PA65#v=onepage&q=messengers&f=false | accessdate = 2013-07-22}} 15. ^{{cite journal | title = GEAR: Cycle chic | journal = Vibe | date = November 1995 | pages = 103| id = | url = https://books.google.com/books?id=_CsEAAAAMBAJ&lpg=PP1&dq=vibe%20november%201995&pg=PA103#v=onepage&q=cycle%20chic&f=false | accessdate = 2013-07-20| last1 = Group | first1 = Vibe Media }} 16. ^{{cite news|url=http://www.theaustralian.com.au/news/features/cycle-chic/story-e6frg8h6-1225902227493?nk=3ba548b7da29f5ef03bdf104211726d9 | title = Cycle Chic | last=Safe | first=Georgina | newspaper=The Australian | location=Sydney | date=2010-08-06 | accessdate = 2014-12-27}} 17. ^{{cite news|url=https://calgaryherald.com/health/Chain+Reaction/6735071/story.html | title = Chain Reaction | date=2012-05-24 | last=Babin | first=Tom | newspaper=Calgary Herald | location=Calgary | accessdate = 2014-12-21}} 18. ^{{citation|url=http://www.tribaspace.com/news/5484-copenhagen-cycle-chic%3A-redefining-bike-culture-one-turn-at-a-time-iiwii|title=Copenhagen Cycle Chic: Redefining Bike Culture One Turn at a Time|author=Megan Cahn|year=2010}} 19. ^{{citation|url=https://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/fashion-and-beauty/fashion/cycle-chic-style-on-two-wheels/article11287605/|title=Cycle chic: Style on two wheels |author=Samantha Grice |location=Toronto|work=The Globe and Mail|date=2013-05-03}} 20. ^{{citation|url=http://www.ibm.com/smarterplanet/us/en/socialbusiness/blogframe/index.html|title=Birth of a Trend|author=IBM Smarter Planet|year=2012}} 21. ^{{citation|title=Two wheels|author=Carlton Reid|url=http://lifeandhealth.guardian.co.uk/wellbeing/story/0,,2287337,00.html|publisher=The Guardian|date=June 26, 2008 | location=London}} 22. ^{{citation|url=https://www.independent.co.uk/money/invest-save/in-the-red-i-finally-like-bicycles-maybe-im-just-a-wickerbasket-case-936108.html|title=In The Red: I finally like bicycles ... Maybe I'm just a wicker-basket case|publisher=The Independent|author=Alice-Azania Jarvis | location=London | date=2008-09-20 | accessdate=2010-04-30}} 23. ^{{citation|url=http://www.nydailynews.com/news/politics/2008/06/09/2008-06-09_barack_obama_gets_poor_fashion_marks_aft.html|title=Barack Obama gets poor fashion marks after weekend bike ride|author=David Saltonstall|publisher=New York Daily News|date=June 10, 2008}} 24. ^{{cite web|title=Easy Rider|url=http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2010/08/06/what-to-wear-when-cycling|date=6 August 2010|accessdate=2011-07-13|publisher=Vogue (British magazine)}} 25. ^{{cite web |last1=Bernard |first1=Katherine |title=Fashion Cycles: The Best Bikes—and the Pre-Fall Looks That Go With Them |url=http://www.vogue.com/868714/fashion-cycles-the-best-bikes-and-the-pre-fall-looks-that-go-with-them/ |website=Vogue.com|publisher=Condé Nast |accessdate=7 February 2015 |date=7 August 2012}} 26. ^Cycle Chic - The Original from Copenhagen 27. ^[https://www.theguardian.com/culture/2010/feb/21/10-best-fashion-bloggers The Guardian/Observer] 28. ^{{cite web|url=http://copenhagenize.eu | title = Copenhagenize Design Co. | accessdate = 2011-11-01}} 29. ^{{cite web | url = http://tess2.uspto.gov/bin/showfield?f=doc&state=4008:cptdb5.2.1 | title = Trademark Electronic Search System (TESS) record 85032525 | accessdate = 2011-06-30}} 30. ^{{cite web | url = http://cyclechic.dk/cycle_chic_trademark_guidelines.htm | title = Cycle Chic trademark guidelines | accessdate = 2011-06-30}} 31. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.copenhagencyclechic.com/2008/04/cycle-chic-manifesto.html|title=The Cycle Chic Manifesto|publisher=copenhagencyclechic.com|date=6 May 2011|accessdate=2011-07-15}} 32. ^{{cite web| url = http://bikestylespokane.com/womens-bike-blogs-the-comprehensive-list | title = Comprehensive List of Women's Bike Blogs | accessdate = 2011-08-05}} Further reading
4 : Cycling clothing|Fashion aesthetics|Utility cycling|History of fashion |
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