| 词条 | Ernesto Lomasti |
| 释义 |
|name = Ernesto Luigi Lomasti |image = |alt = |caption = |birth_date = {{Birth date|1959|10|29|df=y}} |birth_place = Udine, Italy |death_date ={{Death date and age|1979|06|12|1959|10|29|df=y}} |death_place = Arnad, Italy |other_names = |known_for = mountaineering |occupation = alpino, mountaineer |nationality = Italian }}Ernesto Luigi Lomasti (29 October 1959 – 12 June 1979) was an Italian mountaineer and alpino skier. He is regarded as one of the Italian pioneers of climbing as a sport.[1][2] He died[2] during training in the Valle d'Aosta, Arnad, in the local alpini training place called "la gruviera" (the holey cheese), he fell apparently being struck by lightning.[1] Ironically, he is also remembered for techniques on the Machaby pillar, in Arnaud, on May 1979. The pillar today is named Lomasti pillar.[3][4][5][6] Early lifeErnesto Lomasti was born in Udine but spent his early life in Pontebba and Tarvisio, where he attended the local school. During childhood, he contracted pertussis and his parents and uncle used to bring him up on high hills.[1] On 29 June 1973, he left middle school and passed the exam, earning his father a climb on the Jôf di Montasio, Montasio along with a local mountain guide. Following an accident at age three, he severely damaged his hearing in his right ear. This disability would severely impair his climbing career because of having difficulties hearing climbing instructions. The problem was solved on 29 August 1977 when he decided to undergo surgery.[1] He served under the Alpini corps attending the SMALP (alpini military school)[7] until his sudden death. Climbing achievementsLomasti is remembered for a series of ascents of extraordinary difficulty[8] His life as a climber spanned for three years, primarily on Julian Alps from 1976 to 1979, with an impressive list of great gradients.[9][10] He is remembered especially for Cima Grande della Scala,[11] north anti-peak, on 3 September 1978,.[12] All his ascents were conquered using hard boots, as he apparently never had the chance to use light shoes.[1] PlacesDespite his short career, there are several places that are named after Lomasti.
Quotes"[...] per me Lomasti e' stato il piu' grande alpinista friulano di sempre... References1. ^1 2 3 4 5 Beltrame, L. (2008). Non si torna indietro: la storia di Ernesto Lomasti. Torino: CDA & Vivalda. 2. ^1 Ernesto Lomasti 3. ^1 Arrampicare ad Arnad - Le origini 4. ^1 Lomasti Pillar 5. ^Lomasti Pillar 6. ^Lomasti pillar 7. ^Enrico Lomasti ,SMALP 8. ^There's no turning back: Cima Grande della Scala, first winter ascent of Lomasti - Mazzillis by Vuerich and Laurencig 9. ^Ernesto Lomasti life and ascents 10. ^Enrico Lomasti ascent list 11. ^1 Cima Grande della Scala photos of first winter ascent {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121106140255/http://picasaweb.google.com/ALPmagazine/InvernaleAllaCimaGrandeDellaScala?feat=directlink |date=November 6, 2012 }} 12. ^Ernesto Lomasti way, Cima grande della Scala 13. ^Lomasti mountain hut on Wikimapia 14. ^Lomasti mountain hut 15. ^Rural tourism: Lomasti mountain hut 16. ^Cima Grande della Scala, winter first ascent of Lomasti - Mazzillis Crevice by Vuerich e Laurencig External links
Literature
4 : 1959 births|1979 deaths|Italian mountain climbers|Mountaineering deaths |
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