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词条 Marco e Rosa Hut
释义

  1. Access

  2. Routes

  3. History

  4. References

  5. External links

{{Infobox hut
|name = Marco e Rosa Hut
|image = Marcoerosa.jpg
|caption =
|AC_hut =
|ID-OeAV =
|ID-DAV =
|url = https://www.rifugi.lombardia.it/en/sondrio/lanzada/hut-marco-e-rosa.html
|type = wardened hut
|location =
|place =
|admin_district =
|country = Northern Italy
|mountain_range = Bernina Alps
|region =
|coordinates = {{coord|46.37365|N|9.91042|E|type:landmark_region:AT-7|display=inline,title}}
|elevation = 3610
|elevation_ref_point =
|owner = CAI
|built = 1913
|material =
|accessed_by =
|AC_category =
|when_open =
|bunks =
|mattresses =
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}}

The Marco e Rosa Hut (Italian: Rifugio Marco e Rosa) is a high mountain refuge located on the southern slopes of the Piz Bernina in Italy, and very close to the Swiss border, at an altitude of {{convert|3610|m|ft}}. There hut is wardened in summer, with a basic restaurant service and (because of its remoteness and altitude) a reputation for a stay there being very costly. During winter the old hut is unlocked but unwardened.[1]

The Marco e Rosa Hut is positioned on the Fourcla Crast' Aguzza and is the highest mountain hut in Lombardy,[2] and requires high altitude mountaineering experience to reach it safely. Its location on the southern ridge (Spallagrat) of the Piz Bernina makes it an important staging post in the ascent of that mountain.[3]

Access

From the Swiss side, the Marco e Rosa hut can be accessed in at least 6 hours from the Boval Hut or the Diavolezza Hut (one hour less). The route climbs the Fortezza Ridge and then involves a lengthy traverse along the glacier terrace below Bellavista (known as the Bellavista Terrace). This route is graded PD-. [1][3]

From the Italian side, it can be reached in approximately 3.5 hours from the Marinelli Hut (2,813m) via the Upper Scerscen Glacier and then a snow couloir, ending with a 200 metre climb up a steep rock buttress fixed with metal cables. The couloir is exposed to stonefall in summer, and is then rarely used.[1]

Routes

The hut provides a convenient and high starting point for an ascent of a number of mountains, such as:[4]

  • Piz Bernina (4.049m), 2 hrs
  • Piz Palü (3.905m), 2.5 hrs
  • Piz Zuppo (3.995m), 2.5 hrs
  • Piz Argient (3.945m), 2.5 hrs
  • Bellavista (3.889m)
  • Piz Scerscen (3.971m)
  • Piz Roseg (3.937m)
  • Cresta Guzza (3.854m)

History

The Marco e Rosa Hut was constructed in 1913 on the instigation of the alpinist, Alfredo Corti.[5] The construction costs were met by the rich Italian philanthropist and naturalist, {{illm|Marco De Marchi (naturalist)|lt=Marco De Marchi|it|Marco De Marchi (naturalista)}} and is named after him and his wife, Rosa De Marchi.[6] De Marchi had earlier come to climb the Bernina with a guide and had been caught out in a heavy storm. The hut was a built on a 300m rock promontory, and was a simple structure, capable of sheltering 32 people and had no cooking facilities.[7]

In the mid-1960s, a second hut was constructed nearby, capable of accommodating 50 people, and is open and wardened between July and September.[7]

In 2017 a crowdfunding appeal attempted to raise over €40,000 for new photovoltaic panels to provide power for the hut.[8]

References

1. ^{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/33008257|title=Bernina and Bregaglia : selected climbs|last=N.|first=Griffin, Lindsay|date=1995|publisher=Alpine Club|year=|isbn=0900523603|location=London|pages=234-235|oclc=33008257}}
2. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.rifugi.lombardia.it/en/sondrio/lanzada/hut-marco-e-rosa.html|title=Marco e Rosa hut|work=Rifugi di Lombardia|access-date=2018-07-26|language=en}}
3. ^{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/29183407|title=Eastern Alps : the classic routes on the highest peaks : [a guide for mountaineers]|last=Dieter|first=Seibert|date=1992|publisher=Diadem|others=Neate, Jill.|year=|isbn=0906371546|location=London|pages=32-34|oclc=29183407}}
4. ^{{cite summitpost|id =359701 |name = Rifugio Marco e Rosa|accessdate = 26 July 2018}}
5. ^{{cite web |last1=Foppoli |first1=Lucia |title=AL RIFUGIO (M. 3609) MARCO E ROSA DE MARCHI - AGOSTINO ROCCA AL BERNINA, DELLA SEZIONE VALTELLINESE DEL CAI, LA PIÙ ALTA STAZIONE DEL SISTEMA DI RILEVAMENTO METEOROLOGICO DELLA LOMBARDIA |url=http://www.gazzettadisondrio.it/territorio/29022008/al-rifugio-m-3609-marco-rosa-de-marchi-agostino-rocca-al-bernina-della-sezione |website=La Gazzetta di Sondrio |accessdate=20 July 2018 |language=Italian |date=29 February 2008}}
6. ^{{cite book |last1=Dini |first1=Roberto |last2=Gibello |first2=Luca |last3=Girodo |first3=Stefano |title=Rifugi e bivacchi. |date=2018 |publisher=Hoepli |location=Milan |isbn=9788820385248 |url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=IrNeDwAAQBAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=Rifugi+e+bivacchi&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi3vrjUoa3cAhWCzKQKHTNMDVQQ6AEILzAB#v=onepage&q=Marco%20e%20rosa&f=false |accessdate=20 July 2018}}
7. ^{{cite web |last1=Burman |first1=Andreas |title=Wo der Hüttenwirt mit Wolken und Wölfen tanzt |url=https://www.br.de/berge/dossiers/marco-erosa-huette-bernina-wolkenhaus-oberengadin-rucksackradio-100.html |website=www.br.de |accessdate=20 July 2018 |language=German |date=13 August 2016}}
8. ^{{cite web |title=Crowdfunding al Rifugio Marco e Rosa per un nuovo impianto fotovoltaico |url=https://giornaledisondrio.it/attualita/crowdfunding-al-rifugio-marco-rosa-un-impianto-fotovoltaico/ |website=GiornalediSondrio.it/ |accessdate=19 July 2018 |language=Italian |date=5 July 2017}}

External links

  • [https://s.geo.admin.ch/7bff4e8980 Marco e Rosa Hut and Piz Bernina on Maps of Switzerland online]

2 : Mountain huts in Italy|Mountain huts in the Alps

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