| 词条 | Makalu |
| 释义 |
| name = Makalu | photo = Makalu.jpg | photo_caption = Makalu from the southwest | elevation_m = 8485 | elevation_ref = [1] Ranked 5th | prominence_m = 2386 | prominence_ref = | listing = Eight-thousander Ultra | location = Province No. 1 (Khumbu), Nepal / Tibet, China | range = Mahalangur Himalaya | map = Nepal Province1#Nepal#China Tibet topography | range_coordinates = | map_caption = Location in Nepal and Tibet Autonomous Region | map_size = | label_position = left | coordinates = {{coord|27|53|21|N|87|05|19|E|type:mountain_region:NP_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}} | coordinates_ref = | first_ascent = May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy | easiest_route = snow/ice climb }} Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world at {{convert|8485|m|ft}}. It is located in the Mahalangur Himalayas {{convert|19|km|mi|abbr=on}} southeast of Mount Everest, on the border between Nepal and Tibet, China. One of the eight-thousanders, Makalu is an isolated peak whose shape is a four-sided pyramid. Makalu has two notable subsidiary peaks. Kangchungtse, or Makalu II (7,678 m) lies about 3 km (2 mi) north-northwest of the main summit. Rising about {{convert|5|km|mi|1|abbr=on}} north-northeast of the main summit across a broad plateau, and connected to Kangchungtse by a narrow, 7,200 m saddle, is Chomo Lonzo (7,804 m). Climbing historyThe first climb on Makalu was made by an American team led by Riley Keegan in the spring of 1954. The expedition was composed of Sierra Club members including Allen Steck, and was called the California Himalayan Expedition to Makalu.[2] They attempted the southeast ridge but were turned back at 7,100 m (23,300 ft) by a constant barrage of storms. A New Zealand team including Sir Edmund Hillary was also active in the spring, but did not get very high due to injury and illness. In the fall of 1954, a French reconnaissance expedition made the first ascents of the subsidiary summits Kangchungtse (October 22: Jean Franco, Lionel Terray, sirdar Gyalzen Norbu Sherpa and Pa Norbu) and Chomo Lonzo (October 30?: Jean Couzy and Terray).[3] Makalu was first summited on May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French expedition led by Jean Franco. Franco, Guido Magnone and Gyalzen Norbu Sherpa summitted the next day, followed by Jean Bouvier, Serge Coupé, Pierre Leroux and André Vialatte on the 17th. This was an amazing achievement at the time, to have the vast majority of expedition members summit, especially on such a difficult peak. Prior to this time, summits were reached by one to two expedition members at most, with the rest of teams providing logistical support before turning around and heading home. The French team climbed Makalu by the north face and northeast ridge, via the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse (the Makalu-La), establishing the standard route.[3] On May 15 1994 (anniversary of first summit) The great high altitude mountaineer Anatoli Boukreev made a speed ascent to the main summit in 46 hours. Notable ascentsMakalu is one of the more difficult eight-thousanders, and is considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world to climb. The mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that are completely open to the elements. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock/ice climbing. {{Panorama|image = Image:EverestMosaic.jpg |fullwidth = 10800 |fullheight = 2780 |height = 200 |caption = }} Makalu-Barun Valley{{Main article|Barun Valley}}Makalu-Barun Valley is a Himalayan glacier valley situated at the base of Makalu in the Sankhuwasabha district of Nepal. This valley lies entirely inside the Makalu Barun National Park. Barun Valley provides stunning contrasts, where high waterfalls cascade into deep gorges, craggy rocks rise from lush green forests, and colorful flowers bloom beneath white snow peaks. This unique landscape shelters some of the last pristine mountain ecosystems on Earth. Rare species of animals and plants flourish in diverse climates and habitats, relatively undisturbed by human kind. {{clear left}}View{{Himalaya annotated imagemap|caption=Makalu area – including Everest southern and northern climbing routes – as seen from the International Space Station. (The names on the photo are links to corresponding pages.)}}In other mediaMakalu Peak is referenced in the animated Evolution series episode titled "Dark Horizon – Part 2". It is the burial place of the villain Apocalypse. References1. ^The height is often given as 8,481 m or 8,485 m. [9][10][11][12][13]2. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.sierraclub.org/sierra/200509/climber.asp|title=Career Climber|work=Sierra Magazine|date=September–October 2005 |author=Daniel Duane|publisher=Sierra Club |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20070714212823/http://www.sierraclub.org/sierra/200509/climber.asp|archivedate=July 14, 2007}} 3. ^1 2 3 {{cite book | last = Baume | first = Louis C. | coauthors = | title = Sivalaya | publisher = The Mountaineers | year = 1979 | location = Seattle, WA, USA | pages = 74–75 | url = | doi = | isbn = 0-916890-71-6 }} 4. ^{{sl icon}} http://www.gore-ljudje.net/novosti/35160/ 5. ^{{cite book | last = Roskelley | first = John | title = Stories Off The Wall | publisher = The Mountaineers | year = 1993 | location = Seattle, WA, USA | pages = 137–152 | isbn = 0-89886-609-X }} 6. ^{{cite journal | last = Batard | first = Marc | title = Makalu West Buttress, One-Day Solo Ascent | journal = American Alpine Journal | volume = 31 | issue = 63 | pages = 188 | publisher = American Alpine Club | location = New York, NY, USA | year = 1989 | url = | isbn = 0-930410-39-4 | doi = }} 7. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=36583|title=Simone Moro and Denis Urubko: Makalu first winter ascent|publisher=PlanetMountain.com|accessdate=2009-02-10}} 8. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=18037|title=Simone Moro and Denis Urubko make winter history on Makalu|publisher=MountEverest.net|accessdate=2009-03-01}} 9. ^1 {{cite journal | author1-last = Hara | author1-first = Makoto | author2-last = Asami | author2-first = Masao | title = Makalu's South Ridge | journal = American Alpine Journal | volume = | issue = | pages = | publisher = American Alpine Club | location = New York, NY, USA | year = 1971 | isbn = | url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197123400/Makalus-South-Ridge | access-date = 2016-12-26}} 10. ^1 {{cite journal | last = Beghin | first = Pierre | title = Cold Sweat on Makalu | journal = American Alpine Journal | volume = 32 | issue = 64 | pages = 1–6 | publisher = American Alpine Club | location = New York, NY, USA | year = 1990 | isbn = 0-930410-43-2 | url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199000100/Cold-Sweat-on-Makalu | access-date = 2016-12-26}} 11. ^1 {{cite journal | last = Efimov | first = Sergei | translator-first = Sergei | translator-last = Nekhai | title = The West Face of Makalu | journal = American Alpine Journal | volume = | issue = | pages = | publisher = American Alpine Club | location = New York, NY, USA | year = 1998 | isbn = | url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199801100/The-West-Face-of-Makalu | access-date = 2016-12-26}} 12. ^1 {{cite web|url=http://news.independent.co.uk/people/obituaries/article344195.ece|title=Jean-Christophe Lafaille obituary | publisher=The Independent|date=2006-02-09|accessdate=2007-10-27 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080120203029/http://news.independent.co.uk/people/obituaries/article344195.ece | archive-date=2008-01-20}} 13. ^1 {{cite news|url=http://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/What-s-a-Nice-Southern-Girl-Doing-in-a-Place-Like-This-.html | title= What's a Nice Southern Girl Doing in a Place Like This? |authorlink=Jon Krakauer|first=Jon|last=Krakauer | work=Outside|date=June 1993|access-date=2016-04-06}} }} Further reading
| pages=323–335 | publisher = Victor Gollancz Ltd. | year = 1963 | isbn = 0-89886-778-9}} External links{{commons category}}
6 : Mountains of Nepal|Mountains of the Tibet Autonomous Region|Eight-thousanders of the Himalayas|China–Nepal border|International mountains of Asia|Mountains of the Province No. 1 |
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