词条 | Torre Egger |
释义 |
| name = Torre Egger | photo = | photo_caption = | elevation_m = 2685 | elevation_ref = | prominence_m = 275 | prominence_ref = [1] | location = Patagonia, Argentina, Chile (disputed)[2] | range = Andes | coordinates = {{coord|49|17|34|S|73|05|54|W|type:mountain_region:AR}} | first_ascent = February 1976: Bragg, Donini, Wilson (US) | easiest_route = rock/snow/ice }} Torre Egger is one of the mountains of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field in South America. It is located in a region which is disputed between Argentina and Chile,[2] west of Cerro Chalten (also known as Fitz Roy). The peak is between Cerro Torre, the highest in a four mountain chain[3] and Cerro Stanhardt. It is named after the austrian alpinist Toni Egger (1926-1959), who died while attempting neighboring Cerro Torre. First ascentIn 1976, John Bragg, Jim Donini and Jay Wilson from the United States climbed Torre Egger by climbing first to the col between the peak and Cerro Torre, the Col of Conquest, and then up the ridge to the peak. The ascent was hampered by bad weather and took from December 1975 to February 22, 1976 when the 3-person team summitted.[4] Other ascents
In January 2008, Rolando Garibotti and Colin Haley made the first complete traverse of the entire massif, climbing Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre together. They rate their route at Grade VI 5.11 A1 WI6 Mushroom Ice 6, with {{convert|2200|m|ft|-2|abbr=on}} total vertical gain. This had been "one of the world's most iconic, unclimbed lines", first attempted by Ermanno Salvaterra.[12] References1. ^{{cite peakbagger|pid=8645|name=Torre Egger, Argentina|accessdate=2014-06-10}} Note: The prominence value given here was calculated from the difference between an elevation of 2850m for Torre Egger and 2575m for Col de la Conquista, the key col for Torre Egger. 2. ^1 From Rodrigo Jordan, "Cerro Torre", in World Mountaineering, Audrey Salkeld, editor, Bulfinch Press, {{ISBN|0-8212-2502-2}}, p. 156: Cerro Torre rises "on the border between Chile and Argentina." However Chile and Argentina have long-standing border disputes. 3. ^Torre Egger 2005, Huberbuam {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090511033955/http://www.huberbuam.de/aktuell/en/pat20051.htm |date=2009-05-11 }} 4. ^{{cite journal | last = Bragg | first = John | authorlink = | coauthors = | title = Torre Egger | journal = American Alpine Journal | volume = 21 | issue = 51 | pages = 49–56 | publisher = American Alpine Club | location = New York | year = 1977 | isbn= 978-0-930410-31-5 }} 5. ^{{cite journal | last = Karo | first = Silvo | authorlink = | coauthors = | title = Torre Egger's Southeast Face | journal = American Alpine Journal | volume = 30 | issue = 62 | pages = 49–51 | publisher = American Alpine Club | location = New York | year = 1988 | isbn = 978-0-930410-33-9}} 6. ^{{cite journal | last = Orlandi | first = Elio | authorlink = | coauthors = | title = The Eastern Pillar of Torre Egger | journal = American Alpine Journal | volume = 30 | issue = 62 | pages = 52–55 | publisher = American Alpine Club | location = New York | year = 1988 | isbn=978-0-930410-33-9}} 7. ^{{cite web| last =| first =| authorlink =| coauthors =| title =Cerro y Agujas del Cordon Torre| work =| publisher =Climbing in Patagonia| date =| url =http://www.climbinginpatagonia.freeservers.com/To2_mocho.htm| doi =| accessdate =2009-05-27| deadurl =yes| archiveurl =https://web.archive.org/web/20090620000214/http://www.climbinginpatagonia.freeservers.com/To2_mocho.htm| archivedate =2009-06-20| df =}} 8. ^http://www.climbing.com/news/wild-times-in-patagonia/ 9. ^https://www.theguardian.com/sport/2007/may/06/features.sport9 10. ^http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP11/climbing-note-davis-2/ 11. ^{{cite web |url=http://daily.epictv.com/blog/2013/03/12/matteo-della-bordella-describes-first-route-on-west-face-torre-egger-patagonia/ |title=Archived copy |accessdate=2013-12-12 |deadurl=yes |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20131212053319/http://daily.epictv.com/blog/2013/03/12/matteo-della-bordella-describes-first-route-on-west-face-torre-egger-patagonia/ |archivedate=2013-12-12 |df= }} 12. ^{{cite journal | last = Garibotti | first = Rolando | authorlink = | coauthors = | title = The Torre Traverse | journal = Alpinist | volume = 2008 | issue = 25 | pages = 52–59 | publisher = Alpinist Magazine | location = Jackson, Wyoming | date = September 2008 }} External links
5 : Mountains of Argentina|Landforms of Santa Cruz Province, Argentina|Mountains of Chile|Última Esperanza Province|Landforms of Magallanes y la Antártica Chilena Region |
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