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词条 Mount Logan
释义

  1. Peaks of the massif

  2. History

     First ascent  Subsequent notable ascents and attempts  Proposed renaming  May 2005 rescue 

  3. See also

  4. References

  5. Bibliography

  6. External links

{{other uses}}{{Use mdy dates|date=March 2012}}{{Infobox mountain
| name = Mount Logan
| photo = Mount Logan.jpg
| photo_caption = Mount Logan from the southeast
| elevation_m = 5959
| elevation_ref = [1]
| prominence_m = 5250
| prominence_ref = [2]
| range = Saint Elias Mountains
| parent_peak = Denali[3]
| listing = {{unbulleted list
|World most prominent peaks 6th
|Seven Second Summits 3rd
|Country high points 15th
|North America highest peaks 2nd
|North America prominent peaks 2nd
|North America isolated peaks 22nd
|Canada highest major peaks 1st
}}
| map = Canada Yukon
| map_caption = Location in Yukon, Canada
| label_position = right
| location = Yukon, Canada
| coordinates = {{coord|60|34|02|N|140|24|10|W|type:mountain_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}
| coordinates_ref =
| topo = NTS 115B
| first_ascent = 1925 by A.H. MacCarthy et al.
| easiest_route = glacier/snow/ice climb
}}Mount Logan ({{IPAc-en|ˈ|l|oʊ|g|ən}}) is the highest mountain in Canada and the second-highest peak in North America, after Denali. The mountain was named after Sir William Edmond Logan, a Canadian geologist and founder of the Geological Survey of Canada (GSC). Mount Logan is located within Kluane National Park Reserve[4] in southwestern Yukon, less than {{convert|40|km|mi|0}} north of the Yukon–Alaska border. Mount Logan is the source of the Hubbard and Logan glaciers. Logan is believed to have the largest base circumference of any non-volcanic mountain on Earth (a large number of shield volcanoes are much larger in size and mass), including a massif with eleven peaks over {{convert|5000|m|ft|-1}}.[5][6]

Due to active tectonic uplifting, Mount Logan is still rising in height.[7] Before 1992, the exact elevation of Mount Logan was unknown and measurements ranged from {{convert|5959|to|6050|m|ft|0}}. In May 1992, a GSC expedition climbed Mount Logan and fixed the current height of {{convert|5959|m|ft|0}} using GPS.[5][9]

Temperatures are extremely low on and near Mount Logan. On the 5,000 m high plateau, air temperature hovers around {{convert|-45|C|F|0}} in the winter and reaches near freezing in summer with the median temperature for the year around {{convert|-27|C|F|0}}. Minimal snow melt leads to a significant ice cap, reaching almost {{convert|300|m|ft|0|abbr=on}} in certain spots.[6]

Peaks of the massif

The Mount Logan massif is considered to contain all the surrounding peaks with less than {{convert|500|m|ft|-1|abbr=on}} of prominence, as listed below:

Peak Height Prominence Coordinates
Main[2] 5959|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}5250|m|ft|0|abbr=on}} above Mentasta Pass60|34|2|N|140|24|14.4|W|type:mountain_region:CA|name=(primary peak)}}
Philippe Peak (West)[2] 5925|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}265|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}60|34|42.6|N|140|26|02.4|W|type:mountain_region:CA|name=Philippe Peak}}
Logan East Peak (Stuart Peak)[3] 5898|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}198|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}60|34|31.1|N|140|22|00.1|W|type:mountain_region:CA|name=Logan East Peak}}
Houston's Peak[4] 5740|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}100|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}60|35|03.5|N|140|27|20.5|W|type:mountain_region:CA|name=Houston's Peak}}
Prospector Peak[5] 5644|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}344|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}60|35|58.9|N|140|30|40.7|W|type:mountain_region:CA|name=Prospector Peak}}
AINA Peak[6] 5630|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}130|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}60|36|31.8|N|140|31|48.6|W|type:mountain_region:CA|name=AINA Peak}}
Russell Peak[7] 5580|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}80|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}60|35|31.2|N|140|29|08.9|W|type:mountain_region:CA|name=Russell Peak}}
Tudor Peak (Logan North Peak)[8] 5559|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}219|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}60|36|58.2|N|140|29|35.4|W|type:mountain_region:CA|name=Tudor Peak}}
Saxon Peak (Northeast)[9] 5500|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}80|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}60|37|12.0|N|140|27|57.6|W|type:mountain_region:CA|name=Saxon Peak}}
Queen Peak[10] 5380|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}160|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}60|36|33.5|N|140|35|12.5|W|type:mountain_region:CA|name=Queen Peak}}
Capet Peak (Northwest)[11] 5250|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}240|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}60|38|15.0|N|140|32|41.3|W|type:mountain_region:CA|name=Capet Peak}}
Catenary Peak[12] 4097|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}397|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}60|36|36.0|N|140|17|52.1|W|type:mountain_region:CA|name=Catenary Peak}}
Teddy Peak[13] 3956|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}456|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}60|32|37.7|N|140|28|41.5|W|type:mountain_region:CA|name=Teddy Peak}}

History

First ascent

In 1922, a geologist approached the Alpine Club of Canada with the suggestion that the club send a team to the mountain to reach the summit for the first time. An international team of Canadian, British and American climbers was assembled and initially they had planned their attempt in 1924 but funding and preparation delays postponed the trip until 1925. The international team of climbers began their journey in early May, crossing the mainland from the Pacific coast by train. They then walked the remaining {{convert|200|km|mi|-1}} to within {{convert|10|km|mi|0}} of the Logan Glacier where they established base camp. In the early evening of June 23, 1925, Albert H. MacCarthy (leader), H.F. Lambart, Allen Carpé, W.W. Foster, Norman H. Read and Andy Taylor stood on top for the first time.[6][25] It had taken them 65 days to approach the mountain from the nearest town, McCarthy, summit and return, with all climbers intact.[14]

Subsequent notable ascents and attempts

  • 1957 East Ridge. Don Monk, Gil Roberts and 3 others (US) reached the summit on July 19.[15]
  • 1965 Hummingbird Ridge (South Ridge). Dick Long, Allen Steck, Jim Wilson, John Evans, Franklin Coale Sr. and Paul Bacon (US) over 30 days, mid-July to Mid-August. Fred Beckey remarked: "When they got back we just couldn't believe that they had climbed that thing. We didn't think they had a chance".[16] Featured in Fifty Classic Climbs of North America.
  • 1967, August, the first ski descent of the mountain was made in two stages by Daniel C. Taylor main summit to the Kluane glacier [17]
  • 1977 Warbler Ridge. Dave Jones, Frank Baumann, Fred Thiessen, Jay Page (all from Canada) and Rene Bucher (Swiss) in 22 days.[18]
  • 1978 West Ridge. Steve Davis (WA), Jon Waterman, George Sievewright, Roger Hurt (NH). Climbed ridge in 27 days "capsule-style".
  • 1979 "Northwest Ridge" Michael Down (CA), Paul Kindree, John Howe, Reid Carter and John Wittmayer climbed to the summit over 22 days, topping out on June 19.[32]
  • 1979 South-Southwest Ridge. Raymond Jotterand (CA), Alan Burgess, Jim Elzinga and John Laughlan reached the summit after 15 days of climbing on June 30 and July 1.[33]
  • 1987 an alpine-style attempt on the Hummingbird Ridge ended with the deaths of Catherine Freer (US), North America's strongest female alpinist, and David Cheesmond from South Africa and Canada, considered among the best alpinists in the world, when a snow cornice broke.[19]
  • 1992 June 6, an expedition sponsored by the Royal Canadian Geographic Society confirmed the height of Mount Logan using GPS. The leader was Michael Schmidt, with Lisel Currie, Leo Nadeay, Charlie Roots, J-C. Lavergne, Roger Laurilla, Pat Morrow, Karl Nagy, Sue Gould, Alan Björn, Lloyd Freese, Kevin McLaughlin and Rick Staley.[20]
  • 2017 May 23, 15-year-old Naomi Prohaska reached the summit, the youngest person to do so. She was part of a team led by her father.[21]

Proposed renaming

Following the death of former Prime Minister Pierre Trudeau, Prime Minister Jean Chrétien, a close friend of Trudeau's, proposed renaming the mountain Mount Trudeau;[37][38]

however, opposition from Yukoners, mountaineers, geologists, Trudeau's political critics, and many other Canadians forced the plan to be dropped.[39] A mountain in British Columbia's Premier Range was named Mount Pierre Elliott Trudeau instead.

May 2005 rescue

During the last few days of May 2005, three climbers from the North Shore Search and Rescue team of North Vancouver became stranded on the mountain. A joint operation by Canadian and American forces rescued the three climbers and took them to Anchorage, Alaska for treatment of frostbite.[40]

See also

{{portal|North America|Canada|Yukon|Mountains}}
  • List of mountain peaks of North America
    • List of mountain peaks of Canada
    • List of highest points of Canadian provinces and territories
    • List of Ultras in Canada
  • List of elevation extremes by country
{{clear}}

References

1. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.peaklist.org/WWlists/ultras/canada/yukon.html|title=Yukon, Northwest Territories and Nunavut Ultra-Prominences|publisher=Perklist.org|accessdate=2015-03-25}}
2. ^{{cite bivouac|name=Philippe Peak|id=18352|accessdate=July 15, 2007}}
3. ^{{cite bivouac|name=Logan East Peak (Stuart Peak)|id=15754|accessdate=July 15, 2007}}
4. ^{{cite bivouac|name=Houston's Peak|id=15875|accessdate=July 15, 2007}}
5. ^{{cite bivouac|name=Prospector Peak|id=16893|accessdate=July 15, 2007}}
6. ^{{cite bivouac|name=AINA Peak|id=15003|accessdate=July 15, 2007}}
7. ^{{cite bivouac|name=Russell Peak|id=16931|accessdate=July 15, 2007}}
8. ^{{cite bivouac|name=Tudor Peak (Logan North Peak)|id=16708|accessdate=July 15, 2007}}
9. ^{{cite bivouac|name=Saxon Peak|id=16718|accessdate=July 15, 2007}}
10. ^{{cite bivouac|name=Queen Peak|id=16897|accessdate=July 15, 2007}}
11. ^{{cite bivouac|name=Capet Peak (Northwest Peak)|id=16721|accessdate=July 15, 2007}}
12. ^{{cite bivouac|name=Catenary Peak|id=2827|accessdate=July 15, 2007}}
13. ^{{cite bivouac|name=Teddy Peak|id=2831|accessdate=July 15, 2007}}
14. ^Sherman pp. 1–38
15. ^Selters pp. 170–171
16. ^Selters pp. 179-182
17. ^Arctic Institute of North America Newsletter, November 1967
18. ^Scott pp. 319–320
19. ^Selters p. 312
20. ^{{Cite book| publisher = Canadian Geographic | title = Sept/Oct | year = 1992 }}
21. ^{{cite web |title=B.C. teen becomes youngest climber to reach Canada's highest peak |url=http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/british-columbia/naomi-prohaska-mount-logan-youngest-ever-1.4145075 |accessdate=June 4, 2017 |date=June 4, 2017}}
22. ^1 2 {{cite bivouac |name=Mount Logan |id=14 |accessdate=July 15, 2007}}
23. ^1  {{cite web | title = How scientists solved the mystery of Mount Logan’s true height | publisher = Canadian Geographic | date = May 4, 2017 | orig-year = 1992 | url = https://www.canadiangeographic.ca/article/how-scientists-solved-mystery-mount-logans-true-height | access-date = February 15, 2019}}
24. ^1  {{cite news | title = Government backtracks on renaming Mount Logan | publisher = Globe and Mail | date = October 17, 2000 | url = https://www.theglobeandmail.com/news/national/government-backtracks-on-renaming-mount-logan/article25473135/ | access-date = February 15, 2019}}
25. ^1 {{cite peakbagger |pid=541 |name=Mount Logan |accessdate=August 27, 2010}}
26. ^1 {{cite web| publisher= Parks Canada| title = Kluane National Park and Reserve of Canada | url=http://www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/yt/kluane/index.aspx| accessdate =August 1, 2010 }}
27. ^1 2 {{cite web |publisher = Geological Survey of Canada |title = Mount Logan |url = http://www.nrcan.gc.ca/earth-sciences/hist/logan/6987 |accessdate = April 12, 2007 |deadurl = yes |archiveurl = https://web.archive.org/web/20120921022054/http://www.nrcan.gc.ca/earth-sciences/hist/logan/6987 |archivedate = September 21, 2012 |df = mdy-all}}
28. ^1 2 3 {{cite web | publisher=Virtual Museum of Canada | title = Mount Logan: Canadian Titan | url=http://www.virtualmuseum.ca/Exhibitions/Logan/ | accessdate=September 18, 2008}}
29. ^1 {{cite web |publisher = Parks Canada |title = Conquering Mount Logan |url = http://www.pc.gc.ca/apps/cseh-twih/archives2_E.asp?id=323 |accessdate = April 12, 2007 |archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20171212063441/http://www.pc.gc.ca/apps/cseh-twih/archives2_E.asp?id=323 |archive-date = December 12, 2017 |dead-url = yes |df = mdy-all}}
30. ^1 {{Cite journal | last = Down | first = Michael | authorlink = | title = Climbs and Expeditions | journal = American Alpine Journal | volume = 22 | issue = 53 | page = 559 | publisher = American Alpine Club | location = New York, NY, USA | year = 1980| issn = 0065-6925 | url = | doi = | accessdate = }}
31. ^1 {{Cite journal | last = Jotterand | first = Raymond | authorlink = | title = Climbs and Expeditions | journal = American Alpine Journal | volume = 22 | issue = 53 | pages = 557–559 | publisher = American Alpine Club | location = New York, NY, USA | year = 1980 | issn = 0065-6925 | url = | doi = | accessdate = }}
32. ^1 {{cite news | publisher=CBC News | title=Mount Logan to become Mount Trudeau | url=http://www.cbc.ca/canada/story/2000/10/05/mountain001005.html | date=October 5, 2000 | accessdate=April 12, 2007 | archiveurl = https://web.archive.org/web/20071016163258/http://cbc.ca/canada/story/2000/10/05/mountain001005.html | archivedate = October 16, 2007}}
33. ^1 {{cite news | publisher=Globe and Mail | title=Highest peak to be Trudeau Mountain | url=https://www.theglobeandmail.com/series/trudeau/peak.html | date=October 5, 2000 | accessdate=April 12, 2007 | archiveurl = https://web.archive.org/web/20070930031511/http://www.theglobeandmail.com/series/trudeau/peak.html | archivedate = September 30, 2007}}
34. ^1 {{cite web | publisher= Alpine Club of Canada - Edmonton section | title = ACC Accident report for May 2005 | url=http://alpineclub-edm.org/accidents/accident.asp?id=1231 | archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20071016144421/http://alpineclub-edm.org/accidents/accident.asp?id=1231 | archivedate= October 16, 2007 | accessdate =April 12, 2007 }}
35. ^1  {{cite journal | journal = Paper 93-1A: Current Research, Part A Cordillera and Pacific Margin | title = Geodetic and geological observations from the 1992 Mount Logan expedition, Yukon Territory | last1 = Roots | first1 = Charlie F. | last2 = Currie | first2 = Lisel D. | page = 22 | publisher = Geological Survey of Canada | year = 1993 | doi = 10.4095/134186 | doi-access = free}}

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}}

Bibliography

  • {{cite book

| last = Irving | first = R. L. G. | authorlink = Robert Lock Graham Irving
| title= Ten Great Mountains | year= 1940 | location = London | publisher = J. M. Dent & Sons}} [The climbing history up to 1939 of Mount Logan, Snowdon, Ben Nevis, Ushba, Everest, Nanga Parbat, Kanchenjunga, the Matterhorn, Aoraki/Mount Cook and Mont Blanc.]
  • {{Cite book | last1 = Roper | first1 = Steve | last2 = Steck | first2 = Allen | authorlink2 = Allen Steck

| title = Fifty Classic Climbs of North America | publisher = Sierra Club Books | year = 1979 | location = San Francisco, CA, USA
| pages = 179–182 | isbn = 0-87156-292-8 }}
  • {{cite book

| last = Scott | first = Chic | authorlink =
| title = Pushing the Limits, The Story of Canadian Mountaineering | publisher = Rocky Mountain Books
| year = 2000 | location = Calgary, Alberta, Canada
| url = http://www.rmbooks.com/book_details.php?isbn_upc=9780921102595 | access-date = December 27, 2013
| doi = | isbn = 0-921102-59-3 }}
  • {{Cite book

| last = Selters | first = Andy | title = Ways to the Sky
| publisher = American Alpine Club Press | year = 2004 | location = Golden, CO, USA
| isbn = 0-930410-83-1
| url = | accessdate = }}
  • {{Cite book

| last = Sherman | first = Paddy | authorlink =
| title = Cloud Walkers - Six Climbs on Major Canadian Peaks | publisher = Macmillan of Canada | year = 1965
| location = Toronto, Canada | url = | doi = | id = Lib Congress Cat# 65-25069 | isbn = }}

External links

{{sister project links}}
  • Mount Logan on Peakware - photos
  • Map showing location of Mount Logan in the Saint Elias Range
  • 2009 Trip Report
  • Mount Logan Canadian Titan - Virtual Museum of Canada
{{NA highest}}{{NA prominent}}{{NA isolated}}{{Seven Second Summits}}{{Yukon}}{{Authority control}}{{DEFAULTSORT:Logan, Mount}}

7 : Mountains of Yukon|Saint Elias Mountains|Lists of coordinates|Kluane National Park and Reserve|Seven Second Summits|North American 5000 m summits|Highest points of countries
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