词条 | Mule (shoe) | |||||||||
释义 |
Mule is a style of shoe that has no back or constraint around the foot's heel. Mules have a history going as back as Ancient Rome, even though they were not popularly worn until sixteenth century Europe.{{Citation needed|date=December 2017}} There, mules were bedroom slippers and not worn out in public. Throughout the centuries mules have changed in style and purpose. They are no longer just boudoir shoes and are now worn any day and any occasion. In addition to Western examples, mules come from additional cultures like Turkey and Egypt. Across cultures and time frames, mules appear in popular culture from famous paintings to iconic celebrity shoes. HistoryEtymology and original purposeMule's etymology comes from Ancient Rome. In Ancient Rome, the phrase "Calcei Mullei/Mulleus" was used to describe the red shoes worn by Roman senators and later higher magistrates.[1] In 16th century Europe and France, the Latin root word "mule" was used to refer to both backless shoes and slippers.[2] Mules of the 16th century to the 19th century were bedroom or boudoir slippers worn inside and not out in public. Accordingly, mules were worn with dressing gowns and typically matched the loose outfits by having the same comfort.{{Citation needed|date=December 2017}} The early mules did not have any distinguishable features.[3] History of their popularityWhile mules have been worn since the 15th century to the present day, their popularity has not always been constant.{{Citation needed|date=December 2017}} They were typical indoor shoes for both men and women in the early 1700s. By the 1720s to the end of the century, mules were the most popular indoor slipper. Fashion plates that exist from the end of the 1790s describe women wearing mules but are not seen due to the long lengths of the contemporary petticoats. Therefore, they were popular by the end of the 1700s but not as visible. In the beginning of the 1800s mules went out of style. In the mid 1800s, they rose in popularity again.[4] In the 1860s, prostitutes wore mules in the brothels while most others avoided wearing them.[4] In the twentieth century, mules were again in fashion as they embraced the trends. They were especially popular during the end of the 1990s in the high-fashion as elite designers put their own touch on the mule.[5] The twenty-first century has accepted and rejected the mule trend. Most recently, Elle magazine called mules the shoe of 2017.[6] StylesMules have changed in style over time. In the fifteenth century mules from Venice were stilted and resembled chopines.[7] Their toes were of all shapes: round, square and forked. The heel similarly was not constrained in height. Heels ranged from 1 5/8 inches to 2 ½ inches. Mules were embroidered across centuries from 1550 to 1700.[8] For example, Florentine embroidery, which is a flame stitch of various lengths, was popular during the 18th century.[9] Throughout the 1700s, mules were regularly heeled and worn by both men and women.[3] During the middle to late 1720–1790 the shoe structure itself was relatively dull and boring not to distract from eye-catchy buckles.[10] By 1850s, heeled mules were less frequent for men. From 1885 to 1910, the trend of large buckles and elaborate trims was replaced by less decorated low heeled leather and felt shoes.[10] In the twentieth century wartime mules of the 1940s were made of lino, oilcloth, felt, compounds of raffia, rattan, bark or synthetic hemp.[11] 1950s mules were made from plastic and decorated with feathers. The marabou mule promoted the time periods "sex-kitten" ideals.[12] The styles for mules in the 1960s and in the 1980s mirrored the shoe trends of their respective decades. For the 1960s, mules had angular shapes and pointy toes.[13] In the 1980s, this meant that mules were colorful, opulent, and highly accessorized with jewels.[14] Mules for menMules not only came in different styles and various decorations, but also can be categorized by distinct types. In the nineteenth century, two male slippers were very popular mules. In the late 1880s, a very popular version of the mule at the time in England was the Albert.[3] In addition to the Albert, the Alfred was also a man's boudoir/ morning slipper. This name comes from Daniel Green and Company 1892's "Alfred Dolge's Felt Slippers and Shoes."[3] Mules in the EastMules also appear in eastern cultures. This history is similarly rich originating from the 800s and still present today. In eighth century Egypt, mules are depicted on gravestones and seem to be made of red kid.[7] Iranian mules from 1800–1889 were made of velvet, leather, silk, metal thread. They are shaped like a fish.[15] A mule from Turkey in the Metropolitan Museum's collection is made of wood, leather, metal, and silk.[16] Mules from India were made from cow, buffalo or goat hide, fur, silk, wool, or cotton fiber, velvets, brocade and reeds and grass. Similar to the European examples, mules in India were embroidered and embellished with tassels and appliqué. In South Asia, a jutti is a type of shoe that is similar to the mule because it does not have backs.[17] Sometimes, mules resemble Turkish babouche because of the use of Near Eastern fabrics. For example, Pierre Yantorny's mules designed for Rita de Acosta Lydig are made of an identical to other Near Eastern footwear. She potentially wore these shoes with a harem dress, further illustrating Eastern culture.[18] In popular culture{{In popular culture|date=December 2018}}GallerySee also{{High heels}}{{Footwear}}References1. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/shoe/SHOES/ROME/romshoe1.htm|title=Roman Shoes|last=|first=|date=|website=Personal.utulsa.edu|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|access-date=}} {{Commons category|Mules (footwear)|Mules}}{{DEFAULTSORT:Mule (Footwear)}}2. ^{{Cite web|url=https://en.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/mule#mule_Noun_100|title=Mule {{!}} Definition of mule in English|last=|first=|date=|website=En.oxforddictionaries.com|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|access-date=}} 3. ^1 2 3 Rexford, Nancy. Womens Shoes in America, 1795–1830. Kent: Kent State University Press, 2000. 4. ^Stevens, Sarah C., and Margaret T. Ordoñez. "Fashionable and Work Shoes from a Nineteenth-Century Boston Privy." Historical Archaeology 39, no. 4 (2005): 9–25. {{JSTOR|25617280}}. 5. ^{{Cite web|url=https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1306018/poirete-mules-blahnik-manolo/|title=Poirete {{!}} Blahnik, Manolo|last=|first=|date=|website=Collections.van.ac.uk|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|access-date=}} 6. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.elle.com/fashion/accessories/tips/g8559/seventeen-best-mules-shoes/|title=A Vintage Barbie Mule is the Shoe to Own This Summer|last=|first=|date=|website=Elle.com|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|access-date=}} 7. ^1 Walford, Jonathan. "[https://www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com/products/berg-fashion-library/encyclopedia/the-berg-companion-to-fashion/shoes-womens Shoes, Women's]." In The Berg Companion to Fashion, edited by Valerie Steele. Oxford: Bloomsbury Academic, 2010. Accessed October 30, 2017. 8. ^1 {{cite web|url=https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O74679|title=Pair of shoes - V&A Search the Collections|date=13 December 2018|website=V and A Collections|accessdate=13 December 2018}} 9. ^{{cite web|url=https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/156202?sortBy=Relevance&deptids=62%7c8&ft=women+shoes&offset=20&rpp=20&pos=32|title=Mules|website=Metmuseum.org|accessdate=13 December 2018}} 10. ^1 2 Swann, June. Shoes. London: B.T Batsford, 1991. 11. ^Weber, Eugen. "Review: Fashion under the Occupation by Dominique Veillon, Miriam Kochan." The English Historical Review, vol. 118, no. 477, 2003, pp. 841–842. {{JSTOR|3489397}} 12. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/156263?sortBy=Relevance&deptids=62%7c8&ft=marabou&offset=0&rpp=20&pos=2|title=Mules|last=|first=|date=|website=Metmuseum.org|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|access-date=}} 13. ^{{cite web|url=https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/156282?sortBy=Relevance&deptids=62%7c8&ft=women+mules&offset=0&rpp=20&pos=2|title=Mules|website=Metmuseum.org|accessdate=13 December 2018}} 14. ^{{cite web|url=http://sites.fitnyc.edu/depts/museum/Luxury/blahnik.htm|title=Luxury - Manolo Blahnik|website=Sites.fitnyc.edu|accessdate=13 December 2018}} 15. ^{{cite web|url=https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O364535|title=Pair of shoes - - V&A Search the Collections|date=13 December 2018|website=V and A Collections|accessdate=13 December 2018}} 16. ^{{cite web|url=https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/88856?sortBy=Relevance&what=Mules&ft=*&offset=0&rpp=20&pos=8|title=Mules|website=Metmuseum.org|accessdate=13 December 2018}} 17. ^1. Jain-Neubauer, Jutta. "South Asian Footwear: History, Tradition, and contemporary Trends." In Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion: South Asia and Southeast Asia, edited by Jasleen Dhamija, 177–182. Oxford: Bloomsbury Academic, 2010. Accessed October 30, 2017. {{doi|10.2752/BEWDF/EDch4024}}. 18. ^{{cite web|url=https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/156176?sortBy=Relevance&what=Mules&ft=*&offset=0&rpp=100&pos=43|title=Mules|website=Metmuseum.org|accessdate=13 December 2018}} 19. ^Dolan, Therese. "Fringe Benefits: Manet's Olympia and Her Shawl" The Art Bulletin, 97:4, 2015 409–429. {{doi|10.1080/00043079.2015.1043828}} 20. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.doctormacro.com/Images/Monroe,%20Marilyn/Annex/Annex%20-%20Monroe,%20Marilyn%20(Seven%20Year%20Itch,%20The)_03.jpg|title=Annex-Monroe, Marilyn (Seven Year Itch)|last=|first=|date=|website=Doctormacro.com|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|access-date=}} 21. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.marieclaire.com/fashion/g2152/carrie-bradshaw-best-shoes|title=An Ode to Carrie Bradshaw's Epic Shoe Game|last=GOULD|first=Hallie|date=|website=Marieclaire.com|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|access-date=}} 22. ^{{cite web|url=https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/models/a13143625/gigi-hadid-stuart-weitzman-mule/|title=Gigi Hadid's New Shoe Collab with Stuart Weitzman Is Here|first=Chrissy|last=Rutherford|date=15 November 2017|website=Harper's BAZAAR|accessdate=13 December 2018}} 23. ^{{cite web|url=https://footwearnews.com/2017/fashion/celebrity-style/beyonce-pregnant-instagram-video-givenchy-mules-style-348698/|title=Shop the Givenchy Mules Beyoncé Wears in Her Stunning Instagram Photos|first1=Rachael|last1=Allen|first2=Rachael|last2=Allen|date=4 May 2017|website=Footwearnews.com|accessdate=13 December 2018}} 24. ^{{cite web|url=https://footwearnews.com/2017/fashion/news/gucci-fur-free-shoes-443716/|title=Gucci’s Going Fur-Free — Is This Fur-Lined Mule an Endangered Species?|first1=Stephanie|last1=Hirschmiller|first2=Stephanie|last2=Hirschmiller|date=12 October 2017|website=Footwearnews.com|accessdate=13 December 2018}} 1 : Shoes |
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