| 词条 | Ueli Steck |
| 释义 |
| name = Ueli Steck | full_name = Ueli Steck | image = Ueli_Steck.jpg | caption = Steck in 2012 | main_discipline = Mountaineering | other_discipline = Carpentry | birth_date = {{birth date|df=yes|1976|10|04}} | birth_place = Langnau im Emmental, Switzerland | death_date = {{death date and age|2017|04|30|1976|10|04|df=y}} | death_place = Nuptse, Nepal | nationality = Swiss | start_age = 17 }} Ueli Steck ({{IPA-de|ˈyːli ʃtɛk|lang}}; 4 October 1976 – 30 April 2017) was a Swiss rock climber and mountaineer. He was the first to climb Annapurna solo, and set speed records on the North Face trilogy in the Alps. He won two Piolet d'Or awards, in 2009 and 2014. Having previously summited Mount Everest, Steck died on 30 April 2017 after falling during an acclimatizing climb for an attempt on the Hornbein route on the West Ridge of Everest without supplemental oxygen. CareerAt the age of 17, Steck achieved the 9th difficulty rating (UIAA) in climbing. As an 18-year-old he climbed the North Face of the Eiger and the Bonatti Pillar in the Mont Blanc massif. In June 2004, he and Stephan Siegrist climbed the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau within 25 hours. Another success was the so-called "Khumbu-Express Expedition" in 2005, for which the climbing magazine Climb named him one of the three best alpinists in Europe.{{Citation needed|date=April 2011}} The project consisted of the first solo climb of the north wall of Cholatse (6,440 m) and the east wall of Taboche (6505 m).[1] Steck set his first speed record on the North Face of the Eiger in 2007, climbing it in 3 hours and 54 minutes.[2] The record was lowered by Steck himself to 2 hours 47 minutes 33 seconds the following year.[2] In May 2008, climbing Annapurna, he broke off his ascent due to an avalanche threat, but the next week climbed to assist Spanish climber Iñaki Ochoa de Olza, who had collapsed. Medical help was slow in coming and the Spanish climber died despite Steck's help.[3][4] In 2008, Steck was the first recipient of the Eiger Award for his mountaineering achievements.[5] In April 2013, Steck and two other mountaineers, Simone Moro and Jonathan Griffith, were involved in an incident with several Sherpas who were fixing ropes for commercial expeditions on the Lhotse face above camp 2 on the Mount Everest South Col route which subsequently escalated into a dangerous confrontation with many Sherpas after Steck and his companions returned to camp 2, and became an international media event.[6][7][8][9][10] On 8 and 9 October 2013 Steck soloed the Lafaille route on the South Face of Annapurna.[11] on the main and highest part of the face;[12] this was his third attempt on the route and has been called "one of the most impressive Himalayan climbs in history",[13] with Steck taking 28 hours to make the trip from Base Camp to summit and back again.[14] Steck's was the first solo ascent of Annapurna, which won him his second Piolet d'Or.[15] In the winter of 2014/15, Steck and {{ill|Michael Wohlleben|de}} linked up the three north faces of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo/Drei Zinnen in 16 hours.[17] In the summer of 2015, he climbed all 82 summits in the Alps higher than 4000 meters in 62 days without the use of motorized travel.[16][17] Two days slower than the 60-day record, his time included a period when Steck had suspended the tour on July 22, after his climbing partner on the Aiguille de Rochefort, Martijn Seuren, had fallen to his death on this final peak to make him the first Dutch person to climb all 82 4000ers.[18][19] Later that year Steck set a new record for the North Face of the Eiger, soloing it in 2 hours 22 minutes and 50 seconds.[20][21] In April 2016, Steck and his German mountaineering partner, David Göttler, found the bodies of Alex Lowe and paraglider David Bridges.[22] Lowe and Bridges were killed in an avalanche in 1999 while searching for a route up Shishapangma to attempt the first ski descent.[23] Personal life and deathSteck was born as the third son to a copper smith in the town of Langnau in the Emmental valley in Switzerland. As a child he played hockey and joined his father on ski tours.[24] He was a carpenter by training and in adulthood lived in Ringgenberg near Interlaken, Switzerland.[2] Steck died on 30 April 2017 while acclimatizing for an attempt of the Hornbein route on the West Ridge of Everest without supplemental oxygen.[25] This route had been climbed only a few times, the last of which was in 1991. His plan was to climb the Hornbein Couloir to the summit, then proceed with a traverse to the peak of Lhotse, the world's fourth highest mountain. This combination had not been achieved.[26] On April 16, during preparations for the attempt, his climbing partner, Tenji Sherpa, suffered frostbite, which would take some weeks to heal. Steck carried on with scouting and acclimatisation, climbing up to Everest's Camp 2, en route to the South Col. On April 29, he changed his plans, texting Tenji that he was about to instead climb the nearby peak of Nuptse, and did not respond to a follow-up question.[27] On April 30, he began climbing around 4:30 AM, accompanied initially by French climber Yannick Graziani. Approximately {{convert|300|m}} below the summit, he fell an estimated {{convert|1000|m}},[26] seen by several Sherpas and expedition members around the valley.[27] It is not known what caused the fall. His body was found in the Western Cwm, between camps 1 and 2, and transported back to Kathmandu where memorial services were held.[28][27] Steck was survived by his wife Nicole.[29] Awards
References1. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37608|title=Ueli Steck – absolute void|publisher=planetmountain.com|author=Christine Kopp|date=1 June 2005|accessdate=12 June 2013}} 2. ^1 {{Cite web|url=http://www.scarpa.net/en/steck.html|title=Ueli Steck|publisher=SCARPA|access-date=30 April 2017|deadurl=yes|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20170607230350/http://www.scarpa.net/en/steck.html|archivedate=7 June 2017|df=dmy-all}} 3. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08s/newswire-ochoa-annapurna|title=Inaki Ochoa de Olza Dies on Annapurna|publisher=alpinist.com|author=Luke Bauer|date=23 May 2008|accessdate=12 June 2013}} 4. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.uelisteck.ch/en/stories/118-annapurna-expedition-2008-das-tagebuch.html|title=Annapurna-Expedition 2008|publisher=uelisteck.ch|accessdate=12 June 2013|deadurl=yes|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20130509045933/http://www.uelisteck.ch/en/stories/118-annapurna-expedition-2008-das-tagebuch.html|archivedate=9 May 2013|df=dmy-all}} 5. ^1 {{Cite web|url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08x/newswire-steck-eiger-award|title=Another victor of the unwinnable|publisher=alpinist.com|date=3 June 2008|accessdate=12 June 2013}} 6. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/mountaineering/everest-2013/Brawl-On-Everest-Ueli-Stecks-Story.html|title=Brawl On Everest: Ueli Steck’s Story|publisher=outsideonline.com|author=Tim Neville|date=2 May 2013|accessdate=12 June 2013}} 7. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/fist-fight-on-everest-ueli-steck-and-simon-moro-thrashed|title=Ueli Steck Attacked on Everest|publisher=rockandice.com|date=28 April 2013|accessdate=12 June 2013|deadurl=yes|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20130601213010/http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/fist-fight-on-everest-ueli-steck-and-simon-moro-thrashed|archivedate=1 June 2013|df=dmy-all}} 8. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40822|title=Everest: Moro, Steck and Griffith attacked at 7,200m|publisher=planetmountain.com|date=29 April 2013|accessdate=12 June 2013}} 9. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.thehimalayantimes.com/fullNews.php?NewsID=374506|title=Three foreigners thrashed at Everest base camp|publisher=thehimalayantimes.com|author=Manoj Kumar Shrestha|date=28 April 2013|accessdate=12 June 2013}} 10. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.simonemoro.com/en/content/everest-8848-m?page=1|title=Everest 2013|publisher=simonemoro.com|date=28 April 2013|accessdate=12 June 2013|deadurl=yes|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20140328213725/http://www.simonemoro.com/en/content/everest-8848-m?page=1|archivedate=28 March 2014|df=dmy-all}} 11. ^"Annapurna South Face Routes", russianclimb.com, accessed 13 October 2013. 12. ^"Ueli Steck and Annapurna: the interview after his South Face solo", planetmountain.com, accessed 14 October 2013. 13. ^"Steck Solos Annapurna South Face", ukclimbing.com, accessed 13 October 2013. 14. ^"Annapurna South Face Solo – 28 Hours", ukclimbing.com, accessed 13 October 2013. 15. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web13f/newswire-ueli-steck-south-face-annapurna|title=Ueli Steck's Annapurna South Face Solo|author=Shey Kiester|publisher=alpinist.com|date=11 October 2013|access-date=30 April 2017}} 16. ^Ueli Steck schafft alle Alpen-Viertausender in 62 Tagen (in German) 17. ^Susan Joy Paul, Ueli Steck Interview: Climbing all 82 4000-Meter Peaks in the Alps, Alpinist, 18 August 2015 18. ^1 Peter Beaumont, [https://www.theguardian.com/world/2015/jul/24/dutch-climber-martijn-seuren-dies-mont-blanch-massif-ueli-steck Dutch climber attempting 82-peak Alps challenge dies in Mont Blanc fall], The Guardian, 25 July 2015. 19. ^Robert Pursell, [https://www.adventuresportsnetwork.com/random/mountain-climber-recounts-death-during-record-climb/ Mountain climber recounts tragic death during record climb], Adventure Sports Network, 5 January 2016. 20. ^1 {{Cite web|url=http://www.climbing.com/news/ueli-steck-takes-back-eiger-speed-record/|title=Ueli Steck Takes Back Eiger Speed Record|publisher=climbing.com|date=18 November 2015|access-date=30 April 2017}} 21. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.dreamwanderlust.com/news/ueli-steck-a-tribute|title=Ueli Steck, A Tribute|date=5 May 2017|work=dreamwanderlust.com}} 22. ^{{cite web|title=Climbers Alex Lowe and David Bridges' bodies found in Tibet after 16 years|url=https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-36184777|website=BBC News|accessdate=4 May 2017|date=2 May 2016}} 23. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.news.com.au/world/north-america/the-bodies-of-two-climbers-have-been-found-in-a-melting-glacier-16-years-after-they-were-killed/news-story/2e9fae0c1035a484e8bc4fa3afa8443b|title=The bodies of two climbers have been found in a melting glacier 16 years after they were killed|publisher=news.com.au|date=2 May 2016|accessdate=30 April 2017}} 24. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.theguardian.com/world/2017/may/01/ueli-steck-obituary|title=Ueli Steck obituary|last=Douglas|first=Ed|date=2017-05-01|website=the Guardian|language=en|access-date=2018-10-03}} 25. ^{{cite web|url=https://www.theguardian.com/world/2017/apr/30/renowned-climber-ueli-steck-dies-near-mount-everest|title=Renowned climber Ueli Steck dies near Mount Everest|publisher=The Guardian|date=30 April 2017|access-date=30 April 2017}} 26. ^1 {{Cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2017/04/30/world/asia/ueli-steck-mountain-climber-dead-everest.html|title=Ueli Steck, Renowned Mountain Climber, Dies Near Everest at 40|last=Bhandari|first=Rajneesh|date=2017-04-30|work=The New York Times|access-date=2017-05-01|last2=Bromwich|first2=Jonah Engel|issn=0362-4331}} 27. ^1 2 {{Cite news|url=https://www.outsideonline.com/2188941/last-days-ueli-steck|title=The Last Days of Ueli Steck|last=O'Neil|first=Devon|date=2017-05-30|work=Outside Online|access-date=2017-07-06|language=en}} 28. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.dreamwanderlust.com/news/swiss-machine-ueli-steck-no-more|title='Swiss Machine' Ueli Steck no more|date=30 April 2017|work=dreamwanderlust.com}} 29. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.outsideonline.com/2285096/ueli-steck-his-own-words|title=Ueli Steck, After Death and in His Own Words|last=Neville|first=Tim|date=2018-03-07|work=Outside Online|access-date=2018-10-03|language=en}} 30. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.pioletsdor.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=86&Itemid=331&lang=en|title=The 2009 winners|publisher=pioletsdor.com|accessdate=12 June 2013}} 31. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=36738|title=Piolet d'Or 2009, the winners|publisher=planetmountain.com|date=2 May 2009|accessdate=13 June 2013}} 32. ^{{Cite web|url=http://desnivel.com/alpinismo/ueli-steck-primer-premio-karl-unterkircher|title=Ueli Steck, primer premio Karl Unterkircher|publisher=desnivel.com|date=27 July 2010|accessdate=13 June 2013|language=Spanish}} 33. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews1.lasso?l=1&keyid=37542|title=Karl Unterkircher Award a Ueli Steck|publisher=planetmountain.com|date=13 August 2010|accessdate=13 June 2013|language=Italian}} 34. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=41687|title=Ueli Steck and Raphael Slawinsky & Ian Welsted win the Piolets d'Or 2014|publisher=planetmountain.com|date=29 March 2014|accessdate=1 April 2014}} 35. ^{{Cite news|url=http://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/features/everest/ueli-steck-swiss-machine-alpinist-dies-fall-near-mount-everest-nepal|title=Adventurer of the Year, Ueli Steck, Killed Climbing Near Mount Everest|publisher=nationalgeographic.com|date=30 April 2017|access-date=30 April 2017}} Further reading
External links
11 : 1976 births|2017 deaths|People from Emmental District|Swiss mountain climbers|Swiss rock climbers|Ice climbers|Free soloists|Summiters of Mount Everest|People associated with the Matterhorn|People associated with the Eiger|Mountaineering deaths |
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