| 词条 | Necklace | ||||||||||||||||||||
| 释义 |
}} A necklace is an article of jewelry that is worn around the neck. Necklaces may have been one of the earliest types of adornment worn by humans.[1] They often serve ceremonial, religious, magical, or funerary purposes and are also used as symbols of wealth and status, given that they are commonly made of precious metals and stones. The main component of a necklace is the band, chain, or cord that wraps around the neck. These are most often rendered in precious metals such as gold, silver, and platinum. Necklaces often have additional attachments suspended or inset into the necklace itself. These attachments typically include pendants, lockets, amulets, crosses, and precious and semi-precious materials such as diamond, pearls, rubies, emeralds, garnets, and sapphires. Historical NecklacesPrehistoric neckwarePrehistoric peoples often used natural materials such as feathers, bone, shells, and plant materials to create necklaces, but by the Bronze Age metallic jewelry had replaced pre-metallic adornments.[2] Necklaces were first depicted in the statuary and art of the Ancient Near East, and early necklaces made of precious metals with inset stones were created in Europe.[3] Ancient civilizationsIn Ancient Mesopotamia, cylinder seals were often strung and worn as jewelry.[3] In Ancient Babylon, necklaces were made of carnelian, lapis lazuli, agate, and gold, which was also made into gold chains.[4] Ancient Sumerians created necklaces and beads from gold, silver, lapis lazuli and carnelian.[4] In Ancient Egypt, a number of difference necklace types were worn. Upper-class Ancient Egyptians wore collars of organic or semi-precious and precious materials for religious, celebratory, and funerary purposes.[5] These collars were often ornamented with semi-precious, glass, pottery, and hollow beads.[3] Beads made from a variety of precious and semi-precious materials were also commonly strung together to create necklaces.[6] Gold that was fashioned into stylized plant, animal, and insect shapes were common as well. Amulet Timeline of non-classical European necklaces2000 B.C.E. – 400 C.E: Bronze amulets embossed with coral were common.[9] In Celtic and Gallic Europe, the most popular necklace was the heavy metal torc, made most often out of bronze, but sometimes out of silver, gold, or glass or amber beads.[4]400 C.E. – 1300 C.E: Early European barbarian groups favored wide, intricate gold collars not unlike the torc.[10] Germanic tribes often wore gold and silver pieces with complex detailing and inlaid with colored glass and semi-precious stones, especially garnet.[4] Anglo-Saxon and Scandinavian groups worked mainly in silver, due to a deficit of gold, and wrought patterns and animal forms into neck-rings. In the Gothic period necklaces were uncommon, though there are a few records of diamond, ruby, and pearl necklaces.[10] It was not until the adoption of lower necklines later in the Middle Ages that necklaces became common. 1400 C.E. – 1500 C.E: During the Renaissance it was fashionable for men to wear a number of chains, plaques, and pendants around their necks, and by the end of the 15th century the wealthiest men would wear great, shoulder covering collars inlaid with gems.[9] Women typically wore simpler pieces, such as gold chains, or strung beads or pearls.[10] By the end of the period, larger, more heavily adorned pieces were common among the wealthy, particularly in Italy.[10]1500–1600 C.E: Long pearl ropes and chains with precious stones were commonly worn.[9] In the latter half of the century, natural adornments, such as coral and pearl, were joined with enamel and metals to create intricate pendants.[11] Heavily jeweled, delicately framed cameo pendants were popular as well.[10] Chokers, last worn commonly in antiquity, also made a resurgence at this time.[4]1600–1700: Few men in the Baroque period wore jewelry, and for women necklaces were unsophisticated, often a simple strand of pearls or delicately linked and embellished strands of metal with small stones.[9][4] Later in the century, after the invention of new diamond cutting techniques, priority was for the first time given to the jewels themselves, not their settings; it was common for jewels to be pinned to black velvet ribbons.[10] Miniatures also grew in popularity, and were often made into portrait pendants or lockets.[4]1700–1800: Portrait pendants were still worn, and in extravagantly jeweled settings.[4] The newly wealthy bourgeoisie delighted in jewelry, and the new imitation stones and imitation gold allowed them more access to the necklaces of the time.[4] In the early part of the century, the dominant styles were a velvet ribbon with suspended pendants and the rivière necklace, a single row of large precious stones surrounded by other precious stones.[4] By mid-century colorful, whimsical necklaces made of real and imitation gems were popular, and the end of the century saw a neo-Classical resurgence.[4] In the Age of Enlightenment gowns often featured a neck ruffle which women accented with neck ribbons rather than traditional necklaces, but some women did wear chokers inlaid with rubies and diamonds.[9] Seed pearls were introduced to the United States during the Federalist Era, leading to an increase in lacy pearl necklaces.[12]1800–1870: The low necklines of the court gowns fashionable at this time led to the use of large necklaces set with precious jewels.[9] In Napoleon's court that ancient Greek style was fashionable, and women wore strands of pearls or gold chains with cameos and jewels.[10][13] In the Romantic period necklaces were extravagant: it was fashionable to wear a tight, gem-encrusted collar with matching jewel pendants attached and rosettes of gems with pearl borders.[9] It was also common to wear jeweled broochClassifying necklacesNecklaces are typically classified by length .
35 centimetres (14 in) to 41 centimetres (16 in) long and sits high on the neck.
A princess necklace is 45 centimetres (18 in) to 50 centimetres (20 in) long, longer than a choker, but shorter than a matinee.
A matinee length necklace is 56 centimetres (22 in) to 58 centimetres (23 in) long — typically a single strand that rests at the top of the cleavage.
An opera necklace is 75 centimetres (30 in) to 90 centimetres (35 in) long and sits at the breastbone.
A rope necklace is any necklace longer than opera length.
A lariat is a very, very long variation on the rope, without a clasp, often worn draped multiple times around the neck; the ends can be crossed over, looped, or knotted in various ways. This type of necklace sometimes incorporates a loop at one or both ends to allow it to be worn in the style of a lasso, or it may be worn doubled over with the ends passed through the loop formed in the middle. GallerySee also
Further readingJewelry 7,000 Years ed. Hugh Tait. {{ISBN|0-8109-8103-3}}. Jewelry Through the Ages by Guido Gregorietti. {{ISBN|0-8281-0007-1}}. 20,000 Years of Fashion: The History of Costume and Personal Adornment by Francois Boucher. {{ISBN|0-8109-1693-2}}. Necklaces can fly. References1. ^{{Cite journal|last=Davenport|first=Cyril|date=1902|title=Journal of the Society for Arts, Vol. 50, no. 2595|jstor=41335652|journal=The Journal of the Society of Arts|volume=50|issue=2595|pages=769–780|doi=10.2307/41335652}} {{Jewellery}}{{clothing}}2. ^{{Cite book|title=Primitive and Folk Jewelry|last=Gerlach|first=Martin|publisher=Dover Publications|year=1971|isbn=0-486-22747-2|location=New York|pages=}} 3. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/41.160.192/|title=Cylinder seal and modern impression: hunting scene {{!}} Work of Art {{!}} Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History {{!}} The Metropolitan Museum of Art|website=The Met’s Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History|access-date=2017-11-07}} 4. ^1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 {{Cite book|title=Jewelry: 7,000 Years|last=Tait|first=Hugh|publisher=Abradale Press|year=1986|isbn=0-8109-8103-3|location=New York|pages=}} 5. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/12.183.16/|title=Model collar of Hapiankhtifi {{!}} Work of Art {{!}} Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History {{!}} The Metropolitan Museum of Art|website=The Met’s Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History|access-date=2017-11-07}} 6. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/40.3.17/|title=Necklace of Gold Ball Beads {{!}} Work of Art {{!}} Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History {{!}} The Metropolitan Museum of Art|website=The Met’s Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History|access-date=2017-11-07}} 7. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/egam/hd_egam.htm|title=Egyptian Amulets {{!}} Essay {{!}} Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History {{!}} The Metropolitan Museum of Art|last=Patch|first=Author: Diana Craig|website=The Met’s Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History|access-date=2017-11-07}} 8. ^1 {{Cite web|url=https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/luxu/hd_luxu.htm|title=Luxury Arts of Rome {{!}} Essay {{!}} Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History {{!}} The Metropolitan Museum of Art|last=Lightfoot|first=Author: Christopher|website=The Met’s Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History|access-date=2017-11-07}} 9. ^1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 {{Cite book|title=Fashion in History|last=Bigelow|first=Marybelle|publisher=Burgess Publishing Company|year=1979|isbn=0-8087-2800-8|location=Minneapolis, Minnesota|pages=}} 10. ^1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 {{Cite book|title=Jewelry Through the Ages|last=Gregorietti|first=Guido|publisher=American Heritage|year=1969|isbn=0-8281-0007-1|location=New York|pages=}} 11. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/1982.60.378/|title=Pendant in the Form of Neptune and a Sea Monster {{!}} Work of Art {{!}} Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History {{!}} The Metropolitan Museum of Art|website=The Met’s Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History|access-date=2017-11-08}} 12. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/2003.350.2/|title=Necklace {{!}} Work of Art {{!}} Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History {{!}} The Metropolitan Museum of Art|website=The Met’s Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History|access-date=2017-11-09}} 13. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/40.20.55a-c/|title=Parure: tiara, necklace, and brooch {{!}} Luigi Saulini, John Gibson {{!}} 40.20.55a-c {{!}} Work of Art {{!}} Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History {{!}} The Metropolitan Museum of Art|website=The Met’s Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History|access-date=2017-11-08}} 1 : Necklaces |
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