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词条 Nuptse
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{{Infobox mountain
| name = Nuptse
| photo = Nuptse-fromLobuche.jpg
| photo_caption = Nuptse from Lobuche
| native_name = {{bo-textonly|ནུབ་རྩེ།}} नुबचे
| native_name_lang = Nepali
| elevation_m = 7861
| elevation_ref =
| prominence_m = 319
| prominence_ref=
| parent_peak =
| listing = List of mountains in Nepal
| translation = West Peak
| language = Tibetan
| location = Khumbu, Nepal
| range = Mahalangur Himal
| map = Nepal
| map_caption = Nepal
| label_position = left
| coordinates = {{coord|27|57|59|N|86|53|24|E|type:mountain_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}
| coordinates_ref =
| first_ascent = 1961 by a British team led by Joe Walmsley
| easiest_route = snow/ice climb
}}

Nuptse or Nubtse (Sherpa: {{bo-textonly|ནུབ་རྩེ།}} नुबचे, Wylie: Nub rtse) is a mountain in the Khumbu region of the Mahalangur Himal, in the Nepalese Himalayas. It lies two kilometres WSW of Mount Everest. Nubtse is Tibetan for "west peak", as it is the western segment of the Lhotse-Nubtse massif.

The summit of Nuptse is extremely dangerous due to loose snow with a lot of hollows, and there are also weakly attached cornices of snow. This provides a barrier to climbing, yet is not sturdy enough for safe climbing.[1]

The long east-west trending main ridge of Nubtse is crowned by seven peaks:

Peakmetres feet Latitude (N)Longitude (E) Note
Nubtse I 7,861 25,791 27°57′59″ 86°53′24″ This one is the top
Nubtse II 7,827 25,679 27°57′52″ 86°53′34″
Nubtse Shar I 7,804 25,604 27°57′41″ 86°53′47″
Nubtse Nup I 7,784 25,538 27°58′05″ 86°53′08″
Nubtse Shar II 7,776 25,512 27°57′39″ 86°53′55″
Nubtse Nup II 7,742 25,400 27°58′06″ 86°52′54″
Nubtse Shar III 7,695 25,246 27°57′30″ 86°54′42″

The main peak, Nubtse I, was first climbed on May 16, 1961 by Dennis Davis and Sherpa Tashi and the following day by Chris Bonington, Les Brown, James Swallow and Pemba Sherpa, members of a British expedition led by Joe Walmsley.[3] This route they took is called the Scott route for the Nuptse mountain. After this it was climbed just twice between 1961 and 1996.[2]

After a long hiatus, Nubtse again became the objective of high-standard mountaineers in the 1990s and 2000s, with important routes being put up on its west, south, and north faces.

While Nubtse is a dramatic peak when viewed from the south or west, and it towers above the base camp for the standard south col route on Everest, it is not a particularly independent peak: its topographic prominence is only {{convert|319|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}. Hence it is not ranked on the list of highest mountains.

In 2013 Briton Kenton Cool summited Nuptse as part of the"Triple Crown" or "Everest Trilogy" climb, which he achieved that year.[1] He summited Nuptse, Everest, and Lhotse in one season, supported by various climbers and using various climbing techniques.[1] During this climb Mr. Cool tried to save the life a climber that had come down with HACE after summiting Lhotse, but was not reachable for helicopter rescue.[3]

On April 30, 2017, famed Swiss mountaineer and speed-climber Ueli Steck died in an accident near Camp 1 off the Western Cwm, whilst on an acclimatisation climb on the north face of the Nuptse Wall.

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References

1. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.outsideonline.com/1929321/full-story-kenton-cool-and-triple-crown|title=The Full Story of Kenton Cool and the Triple Crown|last=Arnette|first=Alan|date=2013-05-29|work=Outside Online|access-date=2017-06-08|language=en}}
2. ^{{Cite web|url=https://peakware.com/peaks.php?pk=931|title=Nuptse Overview - Peakware.com|website=peakware.com|language=en|access-date=2017-06-08}}
3. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.outsideonline.com/1929321/full-story-kenton-cool-and-triple-crown|title=The Full Story of Kenton Cool and the Triple Crown|last=Arnette|first=Alan|date=2013-05-29|work=Outside Online|access-date=2017-06-08|language=en}}
4. ^ {{cite journal | title = Nuptse | author = Bonington, Chris | authorlink = Chris Bonington | work = Journal | publisher = The Climber's Club | year = 1962 | pages = 306–312 | volume = XIII | number = 3 | url = http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/journal/original/1962%20Journal-p306-312.pdf | accessdate = 29 April 2014}}
[4]
}}

External links

  • Nuptse on Summitpost
  • [https://www.himalayastrek.com/nepal/peak-climbing-in-nepal/ Peak climbing in Nepal]
  • Günther Seifferth, Nuptse at himalaya-info.org.
{{Mount Everest}}{{Commons|Nuptse}}{{Authority control}}

4 : Mountains of Nepal|Seven-thousanders of the Himalayas|Locations near Mount Everest|Mountains of the Province No. 1

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