| 词条 | Opera hat | ||||
| 释义 |
An opera hat, also called a chapeau claque or gibus, is a top hat variant that is collapsible through a spring system, originally intended for less spacious venues, such as the theatre and opera. Typically made of satin in black colour, it folds vertically through a push or a snap on the top of the hat for convenient storage in a wardrobe or under the seat. It opens with an easy push from underneath. NameIts French name "chapeau claque" is a composition of chapeau, which means hat, and claque, which means "tap" or "click". The "chapeau claque" is thus a hat that folds with a click, and unfolds likewise. In English the hat model is usually referred to as a collapsible top-hat, gibus or more often opera hat-[1] HistoryThe construction may originally have been inspired by an historical hat model called "chapeau bras" ("arm hat"), made as bicorne or tricorne to be carried folded under the arm[2] On May 5, 1812, London hatter Thomas Francis Dollman patented a design for "an elastic round hat" supported by ribs and springs. His patent was described as: {{quote|An elastic round hat, which "may be made of beaver, silk, or other materials." "The top of the crown and about half an inch from the top" as well as "the brim and about an inch, the crown from the bottom" are stiffened in the ordinary manner. The rest of the hat "is left entirely without stiffening," and is kept in shape by ribs of any suitable material "fastened horizontally to the inside of the crown," and by an elastic steel spring from three to four inches long and nearly half an inch wide "sewed on each side of the crown in the inside in an upright position." Then packed up for travelling, "the double ribbon fastened under the band is to be pulled over the top of the crown to keep it in a small compass."[3]}}Some sources have taken this to describe an early folding top hat,[4][5] although it is not explicitly stated whether Dollman's design was specifically for male or female headgear. Dollman's patent expired in 1825.[6] Operating from Poissy, Paris, France, around 1840, Antoine Gibus's design for a spring-loaded collapsible top-hat proved so popular that hats made to it became known as gibus.[7][8] They were also often called opera hats due to the common practice of storing them in their flattened state under one's seat at the opera, though the term can also refer to any tall formal men's hat.{{citation needed|date=July 2013}} The characteristic snapping sound heard upon opening a gibus suggested a third name, the chapeau claque, "claque" being the French word for "slap".[9]{{clear left}} GalleryIn popular cultureA chapeau claque is an inherent element of the stage image of Krzysztof Grabowski - the leader of Polish punk-rock band Pidżama Porno. References1. ^www.silktophats.eu: History of the top hat 2. ^Quinion, Michael. Why is Q always followed by U? Penguin Books. 2009 {{ISBN|978-0-141-03924-4}} 3. ^{{cite book|title=Patents for inventions. Abridgments of specifications|date=1874|publisher=Patent Office |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=qVKESYLTrD4C&q=%22an+elastic+round+hat%22|}} 4. ^{{cite book|last1=de Bono|first1=Edward|title=Eureka! An illustrated history of inventions from the wheel to the computer: a London Sunday times encyclopedia|date=1974|publisher=Holt, Rinehart and Winston|location=London|page=88|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=XzLbAAAAMAAJ&q=%22An+elastic+round+hat%22}} 5. ^{{cite book|last1=Sichel|first1=Marion|title=The Regency|date=1978|publisher=Batsford|pages=24–25|location=London|isbn=9780713403428}} 6. ^{{cite book |last1=Herbert |first1=Luke|title=The Register of Arts, and Journal of Patent Inventions, Volume 4| date=1827| page=64| url=https://books.google.com/books?id=BCY1AAAAMAAJ&pg=PA64}} 7. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.musee-mccord.qc.ca/scripts/viewobject.php?Lang=1&accessnumber=M969.22.5§ion=196 |title="Gibus" Opera Hat |publisher=McCord Museum |accessdate=2013-07-06}} 8. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.villagehatshop.com/glossary_g.html |title=Hat Glossary (G) |publisher=Villagehatshop.com |accessdate=2009-10-25 |deadurl=yes |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20091202192011/http://www.villagehatshop.com:80/glossary_g.html |archivedate=2009-12-02 |df= }} 9. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.lockhatters.co.uk/History_of_Hats-content.aspx |title=History of Hats |publisher=Lock Hatters |accessdate=2013-07-06}} External links{{commons|Category:Opera hats}}
2 : Hats|Formal wear |
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