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词条 Ashima Shiraishi
释义

  1. Biography

  2. Rankings

      Climbing World Championships  

  3. Notable ascents

      Boulder problems    Redpointed routes  

  4. References

  5. External links

{{Infobox climber
| image = Climbing World Championships 2018 Lead Final Shiraishi (BT0A2525)-3.jpg
| image_size =
| caption = Shiraishi at the Climbing World Championships 2018
| name = Ashima Shiraishi
| nationality = Japanese-American
| birth_date = {{Birth date and age|2001|04|03}}
| birth_place = New York, NY
| death_date =
| death_place =
| residence =
| education =
| occupation = Student, rock climber, sport climber
| height = 154 cm
| weight = 40 kg[1]
| typeofclimber = Bouldering, Lead climbing
| highestgrade = {{Climbing grade|5.14d/5.15a (9a/9a+)}}
| highestredpoint = {{Climbing grade|5.14d/5.15a (9a/9a+)}}
| highestonsight =
| highestflash =
| highestboulder = {{Boulder grade|V15}}
| knownfor = Youngest person to climb a {{Climbing grade|5.14d/5.15a (9a/9a+)}} route, and first female to climb a {{Boulder grade | V15}} boulder
| firstascents =
| namedroutes =
| majorascents =
| website =
| updated = October 31, 2017
}}Ashima Shiraishi (born April 3, 2001 in New York, NY) is an American rock climber. Ashima started climbing at the age of six at Rat Rock in Central Park, joining her father. Only a few years later, she quickly established herself as one of the top boulderers and sport climbers in the world, and is nowadays widely considered to be the best teenage climber of either gender. Her numerous accolades include first-place finishes in international competitions, and multiple first female and youngest ascents. Ashima is featured in several short documentary-style films, and is the subject of the documentary short "Return to the Red" (2012).[2]

The New York Times referred to her as a "bouldering phenom".[3] Outside Magazine described her as a "young crusher".[4] At age 13 she became the second[5][6] female, and youngest person, to climb a sport route with a difficulty grade of 5.14d/5.15a (9a/9a+).[7] In 2016, she achieved the second ascent of the V15 Horizon in Mount Hiei, Japan and became the first female climber to climb the grade.[7]

Biography

Ashima was born in New York, NY on April 3 of 2001. She is the only child of Tsuya and Hisatoshi Shiraishi, who immigrated from Japan in 1978 to New York, NY. Her father, Hisatoshi "Poppo" Shiraishi, was trained as a dancer in Butoh.[9] When she was 6 years old, her parents took her to Central Park, where she started climbing at Rat Rock. She later started climbing at Brooklyn Boulders in Gowanus, Brooklyn.[10]

Ashima started climbing competitively at age 7, in 2008, and paired with coach Obe Carrion, an accomplished climber. Their partnership ended in 2012, largely due to tensions and disagreements between Carrion and Ashima's father (who has been her coach since then).[8]

Ashima first made a name for herself by bouldering at a very high level at a very young age. At age 8, she climbed the classic boulder problem Power of Silence (V10), in Hueco Tanks, Texas. At age 9, she also climbed Chablanke (V11/12) and Roger in the Shower (V11) in Hueco Tanks, and several other difficult boulders. At age 10, she climbed Fred Nicole's notorious Crown of Aragorn (V13) also in Hueco Tanks. She is the youngest person ever to climb this grade, and one of very few female climbers to climb a confirmed V13.[9]

Ashima also excelled in lead climbing. At age 11, in October 2012, she climbed Southern Smoke at the Red River Gorge, a grade 5.14c (8c+) sport route, becoming the youngest person to climb a route of this difficulty.[10]

In 2013, Ashima continued to excel at both bouldering and lead climbing, adding to her ticklist a 5.14a (Slow Food at Céüse)[11] two more V13s (One Summer in Paradise and Automator)[12][13] and finally two 5.14c's (24 Karats and 50 Words for Pump).[14] On July 2014, she climbed what might be her first V14, Golden Shadow; however, there is a suggestion that Golden Shadow is V13 or V13/V14.[15] She was the second officially recorded female climber (after Tomoko Ogawa) to successfully climb a V14 problem.[16] On the first day of 2015, she climbed her second V14 (V13/V14), The Swarm, claiming the first female top-out of the problem.[17][18][19]

At age 13, Ashima climbed her first 5.14d (9a), Open Your Mind Direct R1 in Santa Linya. The route was thought to be harder while Ashima was attempting it, for a few months earlier a hold had broken off near the top.[23][24][25] However, on Christmas Day of 2015, Edu Márin Garcia climbed the route past Ashima's end point to the second top and confirmed Ashima's route as a 5.14d (9a).[26]

In the same climbing trip Ashima climbed Ciudad de Dios, making her the youngest athlete to climb a 5.14d/5.15a (9a/9a+) and the second female climber to climb at this level.[7][23][29] The route has been climbed by 6 other athletes, but there is still no definite consensus on whether the grade is 5.14d or 5.15a.

In 2015, 2016, and 2017 Ashima won the IFSC World Youth Championships for both Lead and Bouldering in the Female Youth B category.[20][31] In March 2016, at 14 years old, she climbed the boulder problem Horizon (8C/V15) in Mount Hiei, Japan.[21] She is the second person ever to finish this problem. Additionally, with this achievement she became the first female climber as well as the youngest climber to climb this bouldering grade.[22] A few months later, she climbed Sleepy Rave, another V15 (or V14 according to some),[34] in Grampians National Park, Australia.[35] 

In 2017, she was the winner in the female sport category at the USA Climbing Sport & Speed Open National Championships (SCS nationals) held in Denver, Colorado, and placed second at the USA Climbing Bouldering Nationals (ABS nationals) to 10-time champion Alex Puccio.[23] In the same year, she started competing in the Climbing World Cup as an adult.

She is sponsored by Evolv, The North Face, Clif Bar, Petzl, Coca-Cola Japan, All Nippon Airways and Nikon.

Rankings

Climbing World Championships

Youth[31]
Discipline2015
Youth B		2016
Youth B		2017
Youth A
Lead111
Bouldering111
Speed - - 28
Combined - -2

Notable ascents

Boulder problems

{{Boulder grade|8C}}:
  • Horizon - Mount Hiei (JPN) - 2015[39]
  • Sleepy Rave - Grampians National Park (AUS) - 2016 - Some suggest this problem's rating is really V14[39][24][25][34]
{{Boulder grade|8B+}}:
  • Phenomena - Hinokage (JPN) - 2015[39]
  • Nuclear War - New York City (USA) - 2015[39]
  • Golden Shadow - Rocklands (Cederberg mountains, {{ISO 3166 code-3|South Africa}}) - 2014[39]
{{Boulder grade|8B}}:
  • Mana - Grampians National Park (AUS) - 2016[39]
  • Terre de Sienne - Hueco Tanks (USA) - 2015[39]
  • The Swarm - Bishop (USA) - 2015 - Some say this may be 8B/+(V13/14).[39]
  • Blood Meridian - Bishop (USA) - 2014[39]
  • Beta Move - Rocklands (Cederberg mountains, ZAF) - 2014[39]
  • The Automator - Rocky Mountain National Park (USA) - 2013[39]
  • One Summer in Paradise - Magic Wood ({{ISO 3166 code-3|Switzerland}}) - 2013[39]
  • Fragile Steps - Rocklands (Cederberg mountains, ZAF) - 2012[39]
  • Steady Plums Direct - Topside (ZAF) - 2012[39]
  • Crown of Aragorn - Hueco Tanks (USA) - 2012 - Youngest person to climb the 8B (V13) difficulty.[26]

Other Bouldering Achievements:

  • Chblanke - V11/V12 (8a/8a+)
  • Ashimandala - {{Boulder grade|V11}}
  • Roger in the Shower - {{Boulder grade|V11}}
  • Power of Silence - {{Boulder grade|V10}}

Redpointed routes

9a or 9a+ (5.14d or 5.15a):

  • Ciudad de Dios - Santa Linya (ESP) - March 23, 2015 - First female ascent.[7] The route has been repeated by several others, but they have not reached consensus about its grade[7][23][29]
{{climbing grade|9a}}:
  • Open Your Mind Direct R1 - Santa Linya (ESP) - March 17, 2015 - First female ascent. The route was initially graded {{climbing grade|9a}}, but later a hold broke off leading to speculation that the route might have become harder, possibly 9a+. Ashima was the first climber who climbed it after the hold had broken.[23][26][29][24][25] However, in December 2015 Edu Márin Garcia climbed the route past Ashima's end point to an higher top and confirmed the initial {{climbing grade|9a}} rating for Ashima's route.[26]
{{climbing grade|8c+}}:
  • Southern Smoke - Red River Gorge (USA) - September 2012[67]
  • Lucifer - Red River Gorge (USA) - September 2012[67]
  • 24 Karats - Red River Gorge (USA) - October 2013[69]
  • 50 Words for Pump - Red River Gorge (USA) - October 2013[69]
  • La Fabela - Santa Linya (ESP) - March 2014 - First female ascent[71]
{{climbing grade|8c}}:
  • Digital system - Santa Linya (ESP) - March 2014[71]
  • Rollito Sharma extension - Santa Linya (ESP) - March 2014[71]

References

1. ^{{cite web|last=Tilton|first=Morgan|url=https://gearjunkie.com/featured/rock-climber-ashima-shiraishi-profile|title=Ashima Shiraishi: Rock Climbing’s Media Darling|date=April 28, 2016|accessdate=2017-07-19}}
2. ^{{cite web|url=https://vimeo.com/55184231 |title=Return to the Red |publisher=Vimeo.com|date=2012-12-08 |accessdate=2017-08-31}}
3. ^{{cite web|last=Doyne|first=Shannon |url=http://learning.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/05/14/ashima-shiraishi-11-bouldering-phenom/ |title=Bouldering Phenom |publisher=New York Times |date=2012-04-12 |accessdate=2013-04-16}}
4. ^{{cite web|last=Roy|first=Adam |url=http://www.outsideonline.com/blog/outdoor-adventure/why-are-kids-so-good-at-climbing.html |title=Science of Young Crushers |publisher=Outside |date=2011-07-09 |accessdate=2013-04-16}}
5. ^{{Cite news|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=17601|title=Josune Climbs Possible 5.15|last=MacDonald|first=Dougald|date=May 11, 2005|work=|publisher=Climbing Magazine|access-date=March 25, 2016|via=}}
6. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=17601|title=Josune Bereziartu repeats a 9a+|last=|first=|date=May 2005|website=UKClimbing.com|publisher=UK Climbing|access-date=March 25, 2016}}
7. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ashima-shiraishi-first-female-8c-boulder-with-horizon.html|title=Ashima Shiraishi claims first female 8C boulder with Horizon|author=Planetmountain|date=22 March 2016|publisher=}}
8. ^{{cite web|last=Weil|first=Elizabeth |url=http://www.espn.com/espn/feature/story/_/id/14098651/ashima-shiraishi-become-best-female-climber-world-just-14 |title=Ashima Shiraishi Could Become Best Female Climber in the World at Just 14 |publisher=ESPN |date=2015-12-07 |accessdate=2017-08-31}}
9. ^{{cite web|last=Fox|first=Amanda |url=http://www.climbing.com/news/10-year-old-repeats-crown-of-aragorn-v13-2/ |title=10 year old repeats crown of aragorn |publisher=Climbing |date=2012-03-21 |accessdate=2013-04-16}}
10. ^{{cite web|last=Climbing|first=DOM |url=http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/ashima-sends-southern-smoke-514c/ |title=Ashima Sends Southern Smoke |publisher=DPM Climbing |date=2012-10-26 |accessdate=2013-04-16}}
11. ^{{cite web|last=Larson|first=Jens |url=http://www.8a.nu/forum/ViewForumThread.aspx?ObjectId=28008&ObjectClass=CLS_UserNewsComment&CountryCode=GLOBAL |title=Céüse 8b+ by Mirko (12) and Ashima (11) |publisher=8a.nu |date=2013-07-26 |accessdate=2013-10-25}}
12. ^{{cite web|last=Parker |first=Chris |url=http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/12-year-olds-mirko-caballero-and-ashima-shiraishi-send-v13-in-magic-wood |title=12-Year-Olds Mirko Caballero and Ashima Shiraishi Send V13 in Magic Wood |publisher=Rock and Ice |date=2013-08-15 |accessdate=2013-10-25}}
13. ^{{cite web|last=Kahn |first=Chris |url=http://27crags.com/teams/27-crags/blog/ashima-sends-automator-v13-8b |title=Ashima sends Automator V13/8B |publisher=Rock and Ice |date=2013-09-25 |accessdate=2013-10-25}}
14. ^{{cite web|last=Hewitt |first=Andrew |url=http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/ashima-makes-first-female-ascent-of-24-karats-5-14c-in-the-red |title=Ashima Shiraishi Makes First Female Ascent of 24 Karats (5.14c) in the Red |publisher=Rock and Ice |date=2013-10-07 |accessdate=2013-10-25}}
15. ^{{cite web|url=https://27crags.com/crags/roadcrew/routes/golden-shadow|title=Golden Shadow|work=27 Crags}}
16. ^{{cite web |url=http://www.climbing.com/news/ashima-shiraishi-becomes-second-female-to-climb-v14/ |title=Ashima Shiraishi Becomes Second Female To Climb V14 |author=Leslie Hittmeier |date = 11 July 2014 |accessdate =11 July 2014 |publisher=Climbing Magazine}}
17. ^{{cite web|url=https://27crags.com/crags/buttermilks/routes/the-swarm|title=The Swarm|work=27 Crags}}
18. ^{{cite web|url=http://neverstopexploring.com/2015/01/29/ashima-shiraishi-and-paige-claassen-join-the-north-face/ |title=Ashima Shiraishi and Paige Claassen Join The North Face |date=2015-01-29 |accessdate=2015-02-09}}
19. ^{{cite web|url=http://cruxcrush.com/tag/ashima-shiraishi/ |title=Ashima Shiraishi Earns FFA of The Swarm |website=cruxcrush.com |date=2015-01-01 |accessdate=2015-02-09}}
20. ^{{Cite news|url=http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/latest-news/item/843-bouldering-double-victories-for-females|title=BOULDERING: Double Victories for Females|access-date=2016-11-15}}
21. ^{{Cite news|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ashima-shiraishi-first-female-8c-boulder-with-horizon.html|title=Ashima Shiraishi claims first female 8C boulder with Horizon|work=PlanetMountain.com|access-date=2017-10-10|language=en}}
22. ^{{Cite news|url=https://www.climbing.com/news/ashima-shiraishi-sets-new-standard/|title=Ashima Shiraishi Climbs First V15|work=Climbing Magazine|access-date=2017-10-10|language=en-us}}
23. ^{{cite web| last =Yap | first = Audrey Cleo | title=15-Year-Old Ashima Shiraishi Nabs First Place at USA Climbing Championships| website = nbcnews.com | publisher = NBC News|url=http://www.nbcnews.com/news/asian-america/15-year-old-ashima-shiraishi-nabs-first-place-usa-climbing-n733371| accessdate=2017-03-19}}
24. ^{{Cite news|url=http://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/adventurers-of-the-year/2017/ashima-shiraishi-sport-climber-boulderer/|title=Could This 15-Year-Old Redefine Rock Climbing?|date=2016-11-03|access-date=2017-10-12}}
25. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.hardclimbs.info/climbs/sleepy-rave|title=HardClimbs.info {{!}} Ascents for Sleepy Rave|website=www.hardclimbs.info|access-date=2017-10-12}}
26. ^http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/3rd-v13-ashima-shiraishi
27. ^1 2 {{web cite|url=http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/component/ifsc/?view=athlete&id=13960|title=Shiraishi's profile and rankings|editor=IFSC|date=July 20, 2017|access-date=July 20, 2017}}
28. ^1 {{Cite journal |last=Paumgarten|first=Nick| title=The Wall Dancer: Ashima Shiraishi’s route to the top| url=http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2016/01/11/the-wall-dancer| work=The New Yorker |publisher=Condé Nast |issue=2016-01-11}}
29. ^1 2 3 {{cite web|last=Cusidó|first=Oscar |url=http://www.am14.net/ashima-shiraishi-la-nina-arana-12346/|title= Ashima Shiraishi, la niña araña|publisher= Am14|date= 2014-07-26|accessdate= 2014-07-30|language= Spanish}}
30. ^1 2 {{Cite web|title= Red River Gorge: Adam Ondra 9a flash and Ashima Shiraishi 8c+ redpoint|url = http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40227|website= planetmountain.com|accessdate= 2015-04-08}}
31. ^1 2 {{Cite web|title = Ashima Shiraishi Makes First Female Ascent of 24 Karats (5.14c) in the Red|url= http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/ashima-makes-first-female-ascent-of-24-karats-5-14c-in-the-red|website= rockandice.com|accessdate= 2015-04-08}}
32. ^1 2 3 4 {{cite web|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69608|title=Ciudad de Dios, 9a/+, by Ashima|publisher=UK Climbing|date=23 March 2015|accessdate=7 April 2015}}
33. ^1 2 3 {{cite web|url=https://www.theguardian.com/world/2015/mar/22/rock-climbing-ashima-shiraishi-breaking-record-spain|title=Reaching new heights: girl ascends to rock-climbing royalty at only 13 |publisher=Guardian|date=22 March 2015|accessdate=24 March 2015}}
34. ^1 2 3 {{cite web|last1=Fernández|first1=Isaac|title=Edu Marín hace 'Open your mind direct' 9a+: "2015 ha sido uno de mis mejores años"|url= http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/edu-marin-hace-open-your-mind-direct-9a-plus--2015-ha-sido-uno-de-mis-mejores-anos|website= Desnivel.com|accessdate= 1 February 2016}}
35. ^1 {{Cite news|title= Ashima Shiraishi, 11, Conquers Difficult Bouldering Climbs|url= https://www.nytimes.com/2012/05/13/sports/ashima-shiraishi-11-conquers-difficult-bouldering-climbs.html|newspaper= The New York Times|date= 2012-05-12|access-date= 2015-04-21|issn= 0362-4331|first= Julie|last= Bosman}}
36. ^1 2 3 4 {{Cite web|url=http://www.outsideonline.com/news-from-the-field/Shiraishi-Becomes-First-Female-to-Climb-a-515.html|title=Shiraishi Becomes First Female to Climb a 5.15|date=18 March 2015|publisher=Outside On Line|accessdate=24 March 2015}}
37. ^1 2 {{cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ashima-shiraishi-climbs-9a9a-a-santa-linya-in-spain.html|title=Ashima Shiraishi climbs 9a/9a+ at Santa Linya in Spain|publisher=Planet Mountain}}
38. ^1 2 {{cite web|url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/69686/ashima_shiraishi_climbs_open_your_mind_direct_9a_at_santa_linya_spain|title=VIDEO: Ashima Shiraishi climbs Open your mind direct, ~9a/+, at Santa Linya, Spain|publisher=UK Climbing}}
39. ^1 2 {{Cite news|url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/70605/ashima_repeats_sleepy_rave_8c|title=Ashima repeats Sleepy rave, ~8C|access-date=2017-10-10|publisher=UK Climbing}}
40. ^1 {{Cite web|url=https://www.hardclimbs.info/ascents/ashima-shiraishi-sleepy-rave|title=Ascent of Sleepy Rave by Ashima Shiraishi|website= hardclimbs.info|access-date=2017-10-10}}
41. ^1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 {{Cite news|url=http://onbouldering.com/8b-senders-ladies-club/|title=8B Senders Ladies Club|date=2013-08-19|work= OnBouldering.com|access-date= 2017-10-12|language=en-US}}
[27][28][29][30][31][32][33][34][35][36][37][38][39][40][41]
}}

External links

{{Climber links
| ifsc = 13960
| climbing = ashima-shiraishi
| instagram = ashimashiraishi
| facebook = ashimashiraishi
}}{{DEFAULTSORT:Shiraishi, Ashima}}

8 : 2001 births|Living people|Sportspeople from New York City|American sportswomen|American sportspeople of Japanese descent|American women of Japanese descent|American rock climbers|Female climbers
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