| 词条 | Bill Gibb |
| 释义 |
| name = Bill Gibb | image = Bill_Gibb_1976.jpg | image_size = | caption = Bill Gibb in 1976 wearing knitwear of his own design | birth_name = William Elphinstone Gibb | birth_date = {{Birth date|df=yes|1943|1|23}} | birth_place = New Pitsligo, Aberdeenshire, Scotland | death_date = {{death date and age|df=yes|1988|1|3|1943|1|23}} | death_place = London, England | residence = London | known_for = Fashion design | education = Saint Martin's School of Art & Royal College of Art | footnotes = |}}William Elphinstone "Bill" Gibb (23 January 1943 – 3 January 1988) was a Scottish fashion designer who became renowned in the 1960s and 70s for his unusual and flattering designs.[1] Early life and educationGibb was born near New Pitsligo, a small village in Aberdeenshire in Scotland to George and Jessie (née Reid) Gibb,[2] the eldest of their seven children. Gibb, known affectionately as 'Billy', was brought up by his maternal grandparents on their farm, Lochpots, near Fraserburgh. In 1960, Gibb's family bought the dairy farm at Smiddyhill in Fraserburgh, before finally settling in Netherton, in New Pitsligo.[3] Gibb's parents retired from farmwork in 1976, and latterly ran a bed and breakfast in the village of New Pitsligo. They celebrated their sixty-fifth wedding anniversary on 27 December 2009, shortly before George Gibb's death in 2010. He was educated at Fraserburgh Academy.[4] His teachers encouraged him to apply for art school in London, and so, in 1962, Gibb went to Saint Martin's School of Art.[4] After graduating top of his class, Gibb was awarded a scholarship to the Royal College of Art, but before completing his degree, he left to start up in business.[2] Fashion designIn 1967 Gibb was one of six young designers invited to present their designs in New York, which led to a three-month research tour of the United States with his then boyfriend,[5] the artist and textile designer Kaffe Fassett, who would remain a very close friend and design collaborator.[4] On his return to London, Gibb and a group of friends had co-founded the Alice Paul boutique, for which Gibb designed typically late 1960s outfits of miniskirts and long coats, whilst his friends handled the marketing and manufacture.[4] Between 1969–1972, as a freelance designer, Gibb designed for the London fashion house Baccarat.[6] In 1972 Gibb launched his own company, Bill Gibb Fashion Group, which ran until 1988, and in 1975 he opened his first shop in London, on Bond Street.[6] Beatrix Miller of Vogue selected one of Gibb's designs for Baccarat, a pleated tartan skirt and printed blouse worn with a Kaffe Fassett knitted waistcoat, as the 1970 Dress of the Year.[7] Gibb's design was described as the epitome of the new emerging trend for romantic eclecticism in British fashion design, as well as demonstrating how traditional handicrafts, such as hand-knits, were becoming acceptable for mainstream fashion.[7] That same year, Harrods opened a dedicated area for Gibb's designs, calling it the "Bill Gibb Room",[4] and the model Twiggy approached Gibb to create several historically-inspired dresses for her. She wore a "Renaissance" evening dress featuring printed textiles based on 1520s Hans Holbein drawings to the Daily Mirror's Fashion Celebrity Dinner in 1970.[8] Another gown made from various patterned textiles that Twiggy wore to the 1971 film première of The Boy Friend drew a great deal of media attention.[4][5][9]Gibb presented his first collection under his own name in 1972.[5] His fantastical creations were based on nature, with unexpected combinations of fur, feathers, printed leather, and brightly coloured clinging fabrics.[4] However, his most important work was in knitwear, co-designed with Kaffe Fasset and hand-knitted by Mildred Bolton.[4] Due to massive demand, Gibb found a manufacturer in Leicestershire who was willing to take on the challenge of machine-knitting Fassett's extraordinarily complicated, multi-coloured woollen designs, although Bolton continued to hand-knit one-off designs.[4] During the 1970s, Gibb did take on other design commissions, including creating a range of shoe designs for the high-end shoe manufacturer Rayne.[10] Later, in the 1980s, Gibb collaborated with another Leicestershire manufacturer, Annette Carol, to produce acrylic knitwear using a jacquard technique.[4] Gibb was not a good businessperson,[11] and his business was not financially successful, and collapsed in 1977, 1979 and 1980.[4][11] By the 1980s, he was producing small capsule collections as well as designing for individual private clients, and licensing his name to manufacturers and promotions, including a mail-order ensemble for readers of the UK magazine Women's Journal.[4] In 1985, he made a comeback with his "Bronze Age" collection, co-designed with Kaffe Fassett and featuring hats by Stephen Jones,[12] however it did not attract buyers.[13] Personal life and deathGibb was described as "one of the most gentle, kindly and considerate human beings I have ever met" and a "man without malice" by the journalist Jack Webster.[14] Twiggy described him as her "knight in shining armour",[9] and as a "sweet, sunny farm boy in baggy corduroys whom I absolutely adored".[11] For a while in the late 1960s Gibb was in a relationship with Kaffe Fassett, who remained a close friend and colleague to the end.[11] At the time of Gibb's death of bowel cancer in 1988, the Daily Mail reported that he died of AIDS, which was strongly denied by his friends and family.[11][15] Webster, writing for the Glasgow Herald also strongly refuted these claims, pointing out that the hospital had confirmed it was bowel cancer.[14] Despite this, Bill Gibb is still sometimes listed as an AIDS death.[16] LegacyIn 2008, the designer Giles Deacon cited Bill Gibb's designs as a significant influence on his work.[17] Alongside Deacon, John Galliano has also spoken out in praise of Bill Gibb's work for reflecting the "romantic essence of British style".[9] Exhibitions
Bill Gibb's work is represented in the permanent collection of many museums, including the Victoria and Albert Museum in London,[21] Manchester City Galleries,[22] the Walker Art Gallery in Liverpool,[23] the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York,[24] as well as those listed above. References1. ^1 {{cite web|title=Collection of fashion drawings by Bill Gibb, Aberdeen Art Gallery. Art Funded in 1997|url=http://www.artfund.org/what-we-do/art-weve-helped-buy/artwork/7059/collection-of-fashion-drawings|publisher=The Art Fund|accessdate=7 January 2013}} 2. ^1 {{cite web|title=Ruffling fashion feathers: Gray’s students donate outfit inspired by North-east designer to Aberdeen Art Gallery|url=http://www.rgu.ac.uk/news/ruffling-fashion-feathers-gray-s-students-donate-outfit-inspired-by-north-east-designer-to-aberdeen-art-gallery|publisher=Robert Gordon University|accessdate=7 January 2013}} 3. ^{{cite web|title=Geordie and Jessie Gibb celebrate 65 happy years|url=https://www.buchanobserver.co.uk/news/geordie-and-jessie-gibb-celebrate-65-happy-years-1-129030|publisher=Buchan Observer|accessdate=23 September 2018}} 4. ^1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 {{cite web|title=Higher Still Resource: Bill Gibb London|url=http://www.educationscotland.gov.uk/Images/BillGibbLoRes_tcm4-374586.pdf|publisher=Education Scotland|accessdate=7 January 2013}} 5. ^1 2 {{cite web|last=Sells|first=Emma|title=Designers to Know: Bill Gibb|url=http://www.elleuk.com/fashion/designers-to-know/node_218998#image=1|publisher=ELLE UK|accessdate=16 January 2013}} 6. ^1 {{cite web|title=Notable People from Fraserburgh|url=http://www.visitfraserburgh.com/history_and_heritage/notableppl.php|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131003090828/http://www.visitfraserburgh.com/history_and_heritage/notableppl.php|dead-url=yes|archive-date=3 October 2013|publisher=Visit Fraserburgh.com|accessdate=13 January 2013}} 7. ^1 {{cite news|last=Wood|first=Holly|title=50 GREAT BRITISH FASHION MOMENTS|url=https://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/50-great-british-fashion-moments-1199003.html|accessdate=16 January 2013|newspaper=The Independent|date=19 September 1998}} 8. ^{{cite web|title=1970 evening dress worn by Twiggy, designed by Bill Gibb|url=https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O15672/evening-dress-gibb-bill/|publisher=Victoria & Albert Museum|accessdate=13 January 2013}} 9. ^1 2 {{cite news|last=Menkes|first=Suzy|title=Bill Gibb: A bittersweet story of a forgotten designer|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2008/11/25/style/25iht-fbill.1.18094446.html?_r=0|accessdate=13 January 2013|newspaper=The New York Times|date=24 November 2008}} 10. ^{{cite web|title=An Afternoon with Rayne Shoes|url=http://ftmlondon.org/talk-event/an-afternoon-with-rayne-shoes/|website=ftmlondon.org|publisher=Fashion and Textile Museum|accessdate=1 June 2015|deadurl=yes|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20150612002849/http://ftmlondon.org/talk-event/an-afternoon-with-rayne-shoes/|archivedate=12 June 2015|df=dmy-all}} 11. ^1 2 3 4 {{cite news|title=Frock prince|url=http://www.scotsman.com/news/frock-prince-1-1293332|accessdate=16 January 2013|newspaper=The Scotsman|date=31 August 2003}} 12. ^{{cite news|last=Moore|first=Jackie|title=Bill Gibb's Bronze Age|url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=2507&dat=19850321&id=eO09AAAAIBAJ&sjid=wkgMAAAAIBAJ&pg=3117,4608919|accessdate=16 January 2013|newspaper=The Glasgow Herald|date=21 March 1985}} 13. ^{{cite web|last=Rew|first=Christine|title=Bill Gibb|url=http://www.dressandtextilespecialists.org.uk/newsletterspring08.pdf|work=DATS (Dress and Textile Specialists) Journal, April 2008|publisher=DATS|accessdate=16 January 2013}}{{dead link|date=July 2017 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }} 14. ^1 {{cite news|last=Webster|first=Jack|title=Untitled obituary for Bill Gibb|url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=VTpAAAAAIBAJ&sjid=UlkMAAAAIBAJ&pg=6465,1877703|accessdate=16 January 2013|newspaper=The Glasgow Herald|date=12 January 1988}} 15. ^{{cite news|title=Scottish Fashion Designer Dies at 44|url=http://www.apnewsarchive.com/1988/Scottish-Fashion-Designer-Dies-at-44/id-937f2d6fa24b7a9a45f4808269283514|accessdate=16 January 2013|newspaper=Associated Press|date=3 January 1988}} 16. ^{{cite news|last=Garner|first=Claire|title=Arts suffer most as Aids rages on|url=https://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/home-news/arts-suffer-most-as-aids-rages-on-1583729.html|accessdate=16 January 2013|newspaper=The Independent|date=26 November 1995}} 17. ^{{cite news|last=McGlone|first=Jackie|title=Back in vogue – Bill Gibb|url=http://www.scotsman.com/lifestyle/fashion/back-in-vogue-bill-gibb-1-1137029|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20140625210529/http://www.scotsman.com/lifestyle/fashion/back-in-vogue-bill-gibb-1-1137029|archivedate=25 June 2014|accessdate=25 June 2014|newspaper=The Scotsman|date=14 October 2008}} 18. ^{{cite web|title='Bill Gibb: A Personal Journey' until October 2009 in Bath|url=http://www.culture24.org.uk/art/design/fashion%20and%20costume/art65550|publisher=Culture 24|accessdate=7 January 2013}} 19. ^{{cite news|last=Lack|first=Jessica|title=Exhibition preview: Billy: Bill Gibb's Moment In Time, London|url=https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2008/nov/01/bill-gibb-moment-in-time|accessdate=7 January 2013|newspaper=The Guardian|date=1 November 2008}} 20. ^{{cite web|title=Bill Gibb – Fashion gallery at the Fraserburgh Heritage Centre|url=http://www.fraserburghheritage.com/default.asp?page=25|publisher=Fraserburgh Heritage Centre|accessdate=7 January 2013}} 21. ^{{cite web|title=Bill Gibb in the collection of the V&A|url=https://collections.vam.ac.uk/search/?slug=gibb-bill&name=4524&limit=45&offset=0|publisher=Victoria and Albert Museum|accessdate=7 January 2013}} 22. ^{{cite web|title=Bill Gibb in the Manchester Galleries collections|url=http://manchesterartgallery.org/collections/search/?collections-search=&collections-search=&accession=&creator=Bill+Gibb&titles=&medium=&support=&technique=&material=&collection_group=&place=&images=false&earliest=&latest= |publisher=Manchester Art Gallery|accessdate=21 September 2016}} 23. ^{{cite web|title=Fashion in the Walker Art Gallery, Liverpool |url=http://www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/walker/collections/fashion/index.aspx |publisher=National Museums Liverpool |accessdate=21 September 2016}} 24. ^{{cite web|title=Suit Bill Gibb (British, 1943–1988)|url=http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80032917|publisher=Metropolitan Museum of Art|accessdate=7 January 2013}} Further reading
10 : 1943 births|1988 deaths|Scottish fashion designers|People from Aberdeen|People educated at Fraserburgh Academy|Alumni of the Royal College of Art|Deaths from colorectal cancer|LGBT fashion designers|People in knitting|Alumni of Saint Martin's School of Art |
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