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词条 David Lama
释义

  1. Biography

  2. Competition Climbing

     Youth   Championships  Boulder World Cup   Lead Climbing World Cup  

  3. Rock Climbing

  4. Alpine Climbing

  5. References

  6. External links

{{Infobox climber
| image = David-lama1.JPG
| image_size =
| caption =
| name = David Lama
| nationality = Austrian
| birth_date = {{birth date and age|1990|08|4}}
| birth_place = Innsbruck, Austria
| death_date =
| death_place =
| residence =
| education =
| occupation =
| height =
| weight =
| typeofclimber = Sport climbing, bouldering, mountaineering
| highestgrade =
| highestredpoint = {{Climbing grade|9a}}
| highestonsight =
| knownfor =
| firstascents =
| namedroutes =
| majorascents =
| website = {{URL|www.david-lama.com}}
| retired = 2011
| updated = 13 May 2013
| medaltemplates ={{MedalCompetition|IFSC World Championships}}{{MedalBronze|2009 Xining|Lead}}{{MedalCompetition|IFSC European Championships}}{{MedalGold|2006 Yekaterinburg|Lead}}{{MedalGold|2007 Birmingham|Bouldering}}{{MedalCompetition|IFSC Climbing World Cup}}{{Medal|Winner|2008|Overall}}
| show-medals = yes
}}David Lama (Nepali-डेभिड लामा; born 4 August 1990 in Innsbruck) is an Austrian sport climber and mountaineer. He won the European Championship in bouldering in 2007 and the European Championship in lead climbing in 2006. He's known for his first free ascent of the Compressor Route (South-East Ridge) on Cerro Torre.[1][2]

Biography

David Lama was born in 1990. His father is a mountain guide from Nepal and his mother is an Innsbruck Austria native. David was five years old when Himalaya veteran Peter Habeler first watched him climb in a climbing camp organized by him. Afterwards, Habeler immediately called his parents to tell them that their boy had an unusual talent. Lama then became part of the competition climbing team coached by Reinhold Scherer. He became the youngest person to compete at the world cup at age fifteen and the first to win both a lead and the bouldering world cup in his first season.[3] In 2011 he retired from competition climbing and focused on mountaineering.

Competition Climbing

Youth

  • European Youth Cup Winner 2004 und 2005
  • Youth World Champion 2004
  • Youth World Champion 2005

Championships

  • European Champion 2006 Lead Climbing
  • European Champion 2007 Bouldering
  • 3. Place at the World Championship in Xining in China 2009, Lead Climbing

Boulder World Cup

1. Place at

  • UIAA Climbing World Cup, Hall, 2006[4]
  • IFSC Climbing World Cup, Réunion, 2008[5]
  • IFSC Climbing World Cup, Fiera di Primiero, 2008[6]

Lead Climbing World Cup

1. Place at

  • UIAA Climbing World Cup, Dresden, 2006[7]
  • UIAA Climbing World Cup, Penne, 2006[8]
  • UIAA Climbing World Cup, Kranj, 2006[9]
  • IFSC Climbing World Cup, Imst, 2007[10]
  • IFSC Climbing World Cup, Imst, 2008[11]

Rock Climbing

  • 2000 Osp (Slovenia): Kindergarten (8a). Lama was the youngest person to climb a route of that grade at the time.
  • 2004 Gorges du Loup (France): On-Sight of „Devers Satanique“ 10- (8a+)
  • 2004 Gorges du Loup (France): „7pm JP Chaud“ 8c (10+/11-), his first for the grade.
  • 2006 Spain: On-Sight of several routes up to 10+ (8b+)
  • 2007 Niederthai (Austria): In a single day, he climbed „Gondor“ 11- (8c), „Mordor“ 11-/11 (8c+/9a) and „In Memo Reini“ 11- (8c).
  • 2015 Avaatara (Lebanon): 9a.

Alpine Climbing

  • 2010 Sarcha (Italy): Lama and Jorg Verhoeven climbed the first ascent Brento Centro, which they then freed within a day.[12]
  • 2010 Dolomites (Italy): Lama repeated Bellavista (11-) on Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Cima Ovest, after one day of trying.[13]
  • 2011 Cerro Torre (Argentina): Lama and Peter Ortner climbed Cerro Torre via the Compressor Route.
  • 2011 Grindelwald (Switzerland): Lama climbed Pacienca (8a) in the North Face of the Eiger with Peter Ortner.[14]
  • 2011 Kashmir (India): Lama, Stephan Siegrist and Denis Burdet climbed a first ascent Yoniverse, on Cerro Kishtwar.[15]
  • 2011 Lofer (Austria): Lama repeated Feuertaufe (8b) by Alexander Huber as well as Stoamandl (8b), Donnervogel (8b) and Woher Kompass (8a+)
  • 2012 Cerro Torre (Argentina): In 24 hours, David Lama did the first free ascent of the Compressor Route (South-East Ridge) of Cerro Torre with Peter Ortner. The route was subject of much controversy after two other climbers, American Hayden Kennedy and Canadian Jason Kruk, removed many of Maestri's bolts some days before Lama's ascent.[1][2]
  • 2012 Lama and Ortner repeated the route Eternal Flame on Trango Tower (also known as Nameless Tower; 6239m) in the Karakoram region (Pakistan).[16]
  • 2012 Chogolisa (7668m) on the Baltoro glacier in the Karakoram (Pakistan):[17] Lama and Ortner summited Chogolisa I and skied down the mountain's North-West Face.
  • 2013 Sagwand (Austria): First winter ascent of Schiefer Riss on the Sagwand in Tyrol with Hansjörg Auer and Peter Ortner.[18]
  • 2018 First ascent (solo) of Lunag Ri (6895m) in Nepal via the West Pillar, after three attempts (in 2015 and 2016).[19]

References

1. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39061|title=David Lama frees the Compressor route… while Kruk & Kennedy's bolt chopping is hotly debated|publisher=planetmountain.com|date=23 January 2012|accessdate=22 May 2013}}
2. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=66281|title=David Lama and Cerro Torre; A Mountain Set Free|publisher=ukclimbing.com|author=Jack Geldard|date=January 2012|accessdate=22 May 2013}}
3. ^http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!person=6487&cat=1
4. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=889&cat=6|title=UIAA Climbing Worldcup (B) - Hall (AUT) 2006 - Result: M E N bouldering|publisher=ifsc-climbing.org|date=23 June 2006|accessdate=22 May 2013}}
5. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=1093&cat=6|title=IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Reunion (FRA) 2008 - General result M E N bouldering|publisher=ifsc-climbing.org|date=5 May 2008|accessdate=22 May 2013}}
6. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=1097&cat=6|title=IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Fiera di Primiero (ITA) 2008 - General result M E N bouldering|publisher=ifsc-climbing.org|date=15 June 2008|accessdate=22 May 2013}}
7. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=876&cat=1|title=UIAA Climbing Worldcup (L+S) - Dresden (GER) 2006 - Result: M E N lead|publisher=ifsc-climbing.org|date=20 May 2006|accessdate=22 May 2013}}
8. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=900&cat=1|title=UIAA Climbing Worldcup (L) - Penne (ITA) 2006 - Result: M E N lead|publisher=ifsc-climbing.org|date=12 November 2006|accessdate=22 May 2013}}
9. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=902&cat=1|title=UIAA Worldcup (L) - Kranj (SLO) 2006 - Result: M E N lead|publisher=ifsc-climbing.org|date=19 November 2006|accessdate=22 May 2013}}
10. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=964&cat=1|title=IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L) - Imst (AUT) 2007 - General result M E N lead|publisher=ifsc-climbing.org|date=12 May 2007|accessdate=22 May 2013}}
11. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=1109&cat=1|title=IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L) - Imst (AUT) 2008 - General result M E N lead|publisher=ifsc-climbing.org|date=20 September 2008|accessdate=22 May 2013}}
12. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web10x/newswire-lama-verhoeven-brento-centro|title=Lama and Verhoeven Free 29-Pitch 5.13d|publisher=alpinist.com|author=Meghan Ward|date=14 July 2010|accessdate=12 June 2013}}
13. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37500|title=David Lama, Bellavista and Voie Petit|publisher=planetmountain.com|date=14 July 2010|accessdate=12 June 2013}}
14. ^{{Cite web|url=http://bc.mammut.ch/nb/basecamp-news/climbingblog_davidlama_paciencia |title=David Lama climbs Paciencia on the Eiger North Face |publisher=mammut.ch |date=9 September 2011 |accessdate=12 June 2013 }}{{dead link|date=December 2016 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}
15. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38727|title=Cerro Kishtwar important Himalayan first ascent for David Lama, Stephan Siegrist, Denis Burdet and Rob Frost|publisher=planetmountain.com|date=30 October 2011|accessdate=12 June 2013}}
16. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.redbull.com/cs/Satellite/en_INT/Video/David-Lama-Karakoram-Expedition-2012-Climbing-Chogolisa-021243261951419|title=DAVID LAMA KARAKORAM EXPEDITION 2012 - CLIMBING CHOGOLISA|publisher=redbull.com|date=26 Sep 2012}}
17. ^{{Cite web|url=http://simonside.net/david-lama-trango-tower-and-chogolisa/|title=DAVID LAMA KARAKORAM EXPEDITION 2012 - CLIMBING CHOGOLISA|last=|first=|date=26 Sep 2012|website=|publisher=redbull.com|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|access-date=}}
18. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40715|title=Sagwand first winter ascent by Auer, Lama and Ortner|publisher=planetmountain.com|date=20 March 2013|accessdate=12 June 2013}}
19. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/david-lama-climbs-lunag-ri-in-himalaya-solo.html|title=David Lama climbs Lunag Ri|last=|first=|date=29 October 2018|website=Planet Mountain|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|access-date=}}

External links

  • Official website
  • IFSC Profile
{{Authority control}}{{DEFAULTSORT:Lama, David}}

4 : Austrian rock climbers|Austrian mountain climbers|Living people|1990 births

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