| 词条 | John Boyd (milliner) |
| 释义 |
|name = John Boyd |image= john_boyd.jpg |caption= |nationality = Scottish[1] |birth_date = {{Birth date|1925|04|05}} |death_date = {{Death date and age|2018|02|20|1925|04|05}}[2] |occupation = Milliner |awards = MBE |website = {{url|www.johnboydhats.co.uk}} }}John Richardson Boyd MBE (5 April 1925 – 20 February 2018)[3] was a Scottish milliner based in London. Designing hats for over seventy-five years, Boyd was one of London's most respected milliners and is known for his creations for Diana, Princess of Wales and Anne, Princess Royal.[4] Boyd was a milliner to three generations of Diana's family – Diana, her mother Frances Shand Kydd and grandmother Ruth Roche, Baroness Fermoy – and had remained at the centre of his craft adding another generation of royals with Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge.[5][6][7][8] Turning 92 in April 2017, Boyd had one of the longest millinery careers in the world whilst continuing to practise his art before his death in 2018.[9][10] Early lifeBoyd was born in Edinburgh, Scotland in 1925. Boyd served his apprenticeship in Grosvenor Square with the Danish, Royal milliner Aage Thaarup who, along with Otto Lucas, were the most famous names in London millinery.[11] Working with Thaarup from 1941, Boyd's apprenticeship was interrupted in 1943 when he was conscripted for World War II. After three years in the Royal Navy and taking part in the D-Day landings, Boyd was demobbed in 1946 and opened his first atelier in a London basement with his war time gratuity. Working with the fashion designer Clive Duncan who, like Thaarup had royal connections, Boyd received many commissions and designing hats for Duncan's first London show in 1947, their work attracted buyers from Paris.[12] {{Quote box|class = |title = |quote = Here everyone was still wearing utility clothing which was plain, plain, plain. The visitors from Paris arrived wearing the New Look from Dior and we were flabbergasted! They had beautiful wide brims, waisted dresses and skirts that were so full they touched both sides of the door…it was absolutely fantastic. I had never seen anything like it in my life before. |source = John Boyd[13] |align = none |width = 770px |fontsize = |style = |title_bg = |title_fnt = |tstyle = |qalign = left |qstyle = |quoted = yes |salign = |sstyle = }} Millinery careerBy the 1950s with the continued growth of prêt-à-porter millinery was in decline, but Boyd's clientele continued to grow and in the mid 50s he took a shop in the Brompton Arcade.[14] Through Thaarup and Duncan, Boyd had gained entry to royal circles and was now creating designs for Baroness Fermoy, followed by her daughter Frances which would eventually lead to his most famous customer Diana, Princess of Wales, Fermoy's granddaughter. 1967 was a turning point for Boyd when he made a hat for Princess Anne, then 17, launching a tanker in the north of England.[15][16][17][18] Boyd continued to design for the princess and with her sombrero, lemon bowler and black stetson breaking the mould, Anne was making fashion headlines worldwide. Boyd's hats, already a name in Mayfair and Belgravia were now seen across the globe. The beginning of the 1980s increased Boyd's exposure with the arrival of Lady Diana Spencer, the future Princess of Wales and soon to be the most photographed woman in the world.[19] The pink tricorn Boyd made for Diana was seen by millions of people and was copied worldwide.[20] Diana's appearance was a defining moment for couture millinery and rebooted an entire industry in decline for decades. With the acceptance of Caroline Reboux's millinery as haute couture and Boyd's popularity, the door was opened for the creations of Stephen Jones and Philip Treacy who finally made millinery Objet d'art, liberated from the demand of the client to the desire of the maker.{{citation needed|date=October 2014}} Boyd created many designs for the Princess of Wales and his client list would eventually grow to include Princess Michael of Kent, Baroness Thatcher, Lady Soames, Viscountess Daventry and many other ladies of high society.[21][22][23][24][25][26][27][28] In 1985, Boyd designed hats for the Pirelli Calendar,[29] with Norman Parkinson behind the camera, clothes and shoes by Zandra Rhodes, Jasper Conran, Bruce Oldfield, Manolo Blahnik and Iman as the model. Fourteen leading British Designers had been invited to make clothes and accessories for the shoot which represented a significant break-away from the traditional Pirelli calendars. At the calendar launch the collection was auctioned for charity and later the owners gifted these unique works to the V&A museum.[30] Boyd was appointed a Member of the Order of the British Empire (MBE) in the 2014 Birthday Honours for services to the fashion industry.[1] Boyd's atelier is currently in Knightsbridge, London, where his work is continued by his three milliners Sarah Marshall, Ellie Vallerini and Pia Pertulla. In 2015, he launched a vintage line.[31] Many of Boyd's hats can also be seen at the nearby V&A museum. Charity workBoyd hosted a hat show every year with the debutantes at The Berkeley Dress Show, organised by The London Season which supports a different charity each year.[32] In 2012 Boyd took part in HATWALK,[33] a Mayor of London initiative with Grazia magazine in the run up to the London Summer Olympics. In 2013 Boyd designed masks for 'The Animal Ball' to raise funds for The Elephant Family.[34][35] In March 2014 Boyd designed hats for the 'Grand Hatter's Tea Party', hosted by Peter Lewis-Crown OBE in aid of The National Lobster Hatchery.[36][37] See also
References1. ^1 {{cite news|url=https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2014/jun/13/queens-birthday-honours-mbe|title=Queen's birthday honours list 2014: MBE|newspaper=The Guardian|accessdate=30 October 2014}} 2. ^{{Cite web|accessdate=5 March 2018|quote=We are sad to announce that John Boyd passed away on the 20th of February 2018 aged 92. He will be greatly missed although the business will continue in his name. John Boyd MBE 1925~2018|url=http://johnboydhats.co.uk/|website=John Boyd Hats|title=JOHN BOYD ~ LONDON ~ MILLINERY}} 3. ^[https://www.scotsman.com/news/obituaries/obituary-john-boyd-mbe-milliner-who-went-from-humble-edinburgh-beginnings-to-making-hats-for-royalty-1-4706774 Obituary: John Boyd MBE, milliner who went from humble Edinburgh beginnings to making hats for royalty] 4. ^{{cite web|url=https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O369076/hat-boyd-john/|title=Hat|publisher=|accessdate=30 October 2014}} 5. ^{{cite web|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/kate-middleton/12193779/Duchess-of-Cambridge-has-striking-new-look-after-turning-to-Princess-Dianas-hat-maker.html|title=Duchess of Cambridge has striking new look after turning to Princess Diana's hat maker|first1=Gordon|last1=Rayner (Chief Reporter|date=14 March 2016|publisher=}} 6. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.vanityfair.com/style/2016/03/kate-middleton-commonwealth-day-john-boyd-hat|title=Kate Middleton Channels Downton Abbey in Very Large Hat|first=Josh|last=Duboff|publisher=}} 7. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-3491769/Duchess-Cambridge-wears-muted-2-500-Erdem-coat-matching-hat-Princess-Diana-s-favourite-milliner.html|title=Kate wears £2,500 Erdem coat and hat by Diana's favourite milliner|publisher=}} 8. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/entry/duchess-of-cambridge-style-hats_uk_56e6f331e4b03fb88ede064d|title=Duchess Of Cambridge Chooses Princess Diana's Hat Maker|date=14 March 2016|publisher=}} 9. ^{{cite web|title=John Boyd, milliner who helped make Princess Diana a fashion icon, dies at 92|url=https://www.washingtonpost.com/local/obituaries/john-boyd-milliner-who-helped-make-princess-diana-a-fashion-icon-dies-at-92/2018/03/06/086ff514-2097-11e8-86f6-54bfff693d2b_story.html|work=Washington Post|date=6 March 2018}} 10. ^{{cite web|title=John Boyd, discreet hatmaker who sparked a craze for British millinery|url=https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/obituary-john-boyd-tqzq2bkcd|work=The Times|date=6 March 2018}} 11. ^{{cite web|title=Otto Lucas|website=V&A Search the Collections|url=https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O84188/hat-otto-lucas/|accessdate=30 October 2014}} 12. ^{{cite web|title=Fashion Feature|url=http://www.britishpathe.com/video/fashion-feature-4/query/clive|website=British Pathé|accessdate=30 October 2014}} 13. ^{{Cite web|url=https://www.hardy.global/john-boyd-milliner/|title=A Milliner's Dream hats in the city|author=HARDY}} 14. ^http://www.ukattraction.com/london/brompton-arcade.htm 15. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-1036749/Princess-Anne-recycles-dress-wore-27-years-ago.html|title=Princess Anne recycles dress she first wore 27 years ago|newspaper=The Daily Mail|accessdate=30 October 2014}} 16. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.hellomagazine.com/royalty/2008/07/21/princess-anne-dress/|title=Practical Princess Anne recycles Diana wedding outfit|publisher=|accessdate=30 October 2014}} 17. ^{{cite web|url=http://royalhats.wordpress.com/list-of-royal-milliners/|title=List of Royal Milliners|work=Royal Hats|accessdate=30 October 2014}} 18. ^{{cite web|url=https://www.independent.co.uk/news/the-royal-cost-of-keeping-up-appearances-1311641.html|title=The royal cost of keeping up appearances|newspaper=The Independent|accessdate=30 October 2014}} 19. ^{{cite web|url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/hi/english/static/diana_one_year_on/reporters_reflections/j_long.stm|title=BBC News – Diana one year on – Reporter's reflections|publisher=|accessdate=30 October 2014}} 20. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/john-boyd/|title=John Boyd|work=The FMD - FashionModelDirectory.com|accessdate=30 October 2014}} 21. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.gettyimages.co.uk/detail/news-photo/princess-diana-wearing-a-bellville-sassoon-coat-and-john-news-photo/73875605|title=Princess Diana wearing a Bellville Sassoon coat and John Boyd hat... News Photo 73875605|author=Princess Diana Archive|work=Getty Images|accessdate=30 October 2014}} 22. ^{{cite journal|url=http://www.usmagazine.com/celebrity-moms/pictures/princess-diana-her-pregnancy-with-prince-william-201327/31458|title=April 1982|magazine=Us Weekly|accessdate=30 October 2014}} 23. ^{{cite news|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/entertainment-arts-19048451|title=BBC News – London 2012: Lord Nelson gets makeover for Olympics|publisher=BBC News|accessdate=30 October 2014}} 24. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.gettyimages.co.uk/detail/news-photo/scottish-milliner-john-boyd-in-his-knightsbridge-shop-news-photo/52100350|title=Scottish Milliner John Boyd in His Knightsbridge Shop Surrounded By...|author=Tim Graham|work=Getty Images|accessdate=30 October 2014}} 25. ^{{cite news|url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1301&dat=19850818&id=5TVWAAAAIBAJ&sjid=yOcDAAAAIBAJ&pg=1971,2465602|newspaper=The Sydney Morning Herald|title=A couture takeover rocks the palace|p=152|author=William Davies and Gail Rolfe|accessdate=30 October 2014}} 26. ^{{cite news|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/the_queens_diamond_jubilee/9311604/The-Queens-Diamond-Jubilee-Thanksgiving-Service-and-Carriage-Procession-as-it-happened.html|title=The Queen's Diamond Jubilee Thanksgiving Service and Carriage Procession: as it happened|date=5 June 2012|newspaper=The Daily Telegraph|accessdate=30 October 2014}} 27. ^{{cite web|url=http://royalhats.wordpress.com/2013/11/11/remembrance-day-2/|title=Remembrance Day|work=Royal Hats|accessdate=30 October 2014}} 28. ^{{cite web|url=http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/galleries/TMG3354370/6/In-pictures-Royal-Ascot-2006.html|title=Viscoutess Daventry in cock feather hat by John Boyd and vintage dress – Fashion Galleries|publisher=The Daily Telegraph|accessdate=30 October 2014}} 29. ^{{cite web|url=https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O141947/the-pirelli-calendar-1985-hat-boyd-john/|title=The Pirelli Calendar 1985|publisher=|accessdate=30 October 2014}} 30. ^{{cite web|url=https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O141947/the-pirelli-calendar-1985-hat-boyd-john/|title=The Pirelli Calendar 1985 - Boyd, John - V&A Search the Collections|website=collections.vam.ac.uk}} 31. ^{{cite web|title=Launching our very special vintage range|url=http://johnboydhats.tumblr.com/post/108916235777/launching-our-very-special-vintage-range|publisher=John Boyd Hats}} 32. ^{{cite web|url=http://thelondonseason.org/backstage-at-the-berkeley-dress-show-2012/|title=Backstage at the Berkeley Dress Show 2012 - The London Season|date=24 April 2012|publisher=}} 33. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.britishfashioncouncil.com/pressreleases/Hatwalk|title=British Fashion Council|publisher=|accessdate=30 October 2014}} 34. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.2luxury2.com/escape-london-for-the-jungle-at-animal-ball-2013/masks-of-the-animal-ball-masks-by-john-boyd-hats/|title=Masks of The Animal Ball – Masks by John Boyd Hats|publisher=|accessdate=30 October 2014}} 35. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2013/05/13/elephant-family-animal-ball---designer-masks-diane-von-furstenberg-manolo-blahnik/|title=Elephant Family Animal Ball – Designer Masks Diane Von Furstenberg Manolo Blahnik (Vogue.com UK)|work=Vogue UK|accessdate=30 October 2014}} 36. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.nationallobsterhatchery.co.uk/the-grand-hatters-tea-party/|title=The Grand Hatter's Tea Party|work=National Lobster Hatchery|accessdate=30 October 2014}} 37. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.delanceypress.co.uk/house_of_lachasse.html|title=Delancey Press - House of Lachasse|website=www.delanceypress.co.uk}} External links
5 : Scottish fashion designers|Members of the Order of the British Empire|Milliners|1925 births|2018 deaths |
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