词条 | Maki Yūkō |
释义 |
| name = Maki Yūkō | image = Yukou Maki.jpg | birth_name = Maki Aritsune | birth_date = {{Birth date|1894|02|05|df=y}} | birth_place = Sendai, Japan | death_date = {{Death date and age|1989|05|02|1894|02|05|df=yes}} | alma_mater = Keio University Faculty of Law | death_place = Tokyo, Japan | occupation = Mountaineer | salary = | networth = | spouse = | website = | awards = }}{{Japanese name|Maki|Yūkō}}{{nihongo|Maki Yūkō|槇 有恒|Maki Yūkō|born 5 February 1894 in Sendai, died 2 May 1989 in Tokyo}}, also known as Maki Aritsune, was a Japanese mountain climber. CareerMaki climbed Mount Fuji at the age of ten. He made many climbs in his teens, including Mount Aso. He established a climbing club while studying law at Keio University in Tokyo, from which he graduated in 1919. He continued his studies in the United States and Great Britain.[1] Besides numerous climbs in Switzerland in the period from 1919 to 1921, on 10 September 1921 he made the first ascent of the Eiger by the Mittellegigrat (northeast ridge) with mountain guides Fritz Amatter, Samuel Brawand and Fritz Steuri.[1][2][3] He made a donation of 10,000 Swiss francs toward the construction of the Mittellegi Hut.[1][3][7] In 1922 he made the first winter ascent of Mount Yari ({{convert|3180|m}}) in Japan. In 1925, with five other Japanese mountaineers and three Swiss mountain guides, he made the first ascent of Mount Alberta ({{convert|3619|m}}) in the Canadian Rockies. The expedition was sponsored by Prince Chichibu.[1] In 1926 he was again in the Alps, making the ascent of the Matterhorn via the Zmuttgrat and climbing with Prince Chichibu.[1][4] Maki's climbing career was interrupted by World War II, preventing him from leading a Japanese expedition to the Himalayas.[1] In 1956 Maki led the third Japanese expedition to the Nepalese mountain Manaslu. Expedition members Toshio Imanishi and Sherpa Gyalzen Norbu made the first ascent of Manaslu on 9 May 1956.[13][1][15] References{{Expand Japanese|槇有恒|date=January 2013}}1. ^1 2 3 4 5 6 {{cite book|title=Mountaineers: Great Tales of Bravery and Conquest|last=Douglas|first=Ed|others=Smithsonian Institution|location=New York, New York|publisher=DK Publishing|year=2011|isbn=978-0-7566-8682-6|pages=212–213}} [5][6][7]2. ^{{cite book|last1=Harrer|first1=Heinrich|authorlink1=Heinrich Harrer|first2=Kurt|last2=Maix|others=Trans. Hugh Merrick|title=The White Spider: The Story of the North Face of the Eiger|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Htg-t2DUPkgC&pg=PA27|page=27|publisher=Rupert Hart-Davis|year=1959|isbn=0 586 08874 1}} 3. ^1 {{cite web|url=http://www.eigerworld.ch/pdf/text.pdf|title=Erinnerungen an Yuko Maki|trans-title=Memories of Yuko Maki|first=Samuel|last=Brawand|authorlink=Samuel Brawand|date=July 1989|location=Grindelwald|language=German|format=PDF|pages=5–6|accessdate=2 August 2013}} 4. ^Brawand, pp. 7-8. 5. ^1 {{cite journal | journal = Himalayan Journal | year = 1957 | title = The Ascent of Manaslu | url = https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/20/2/the-ascent-of-manaslu/ | publisher = Himalayan Club | volume = 20 | access-date = 2016-11-11}} 6. ^1 {{cite book|last=Reynolds|first=Kev|title=Manaslu: A Trekker's Guide|work=Introduction|page=14|access-date=23 January 2013 | url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=m6_Gso398j8C&printsec=frontcover&dq=Manaslu#v=onepage&q=&f=false | publisher=Cicerone Press Limited | location=Milnthorpe |year=2000|isbn=1 85284 302 0}} 7. ^1 {{cite book|last=Reynolds|first=Kev|title=The Swiss Alps|year=2012 | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=LBR4WMqgKVIC&pg=PA331 | accessdate = 2016-11-11 | page=331|series=Cicerone World Mountain Ranges|location=Milnthorpe|publisher=Cicerone Press|isbn=978 1 85284 465 3}} }} Publications{{Commons category|Maki Yūkō}}
| last1=Maki|first1=Yuko|last2=Imanishi|first2=T.|year=1957|journal=Himalayan Journal|issue=20|accessdate=28 January 2013}}
8 : 1894 births|1989 deaths|Japanese mountain climbers|Japanese non-fiction writers|Japanese topographers|Keio University alumni|Sportspeople from Sendai|People associated with the Eiger |
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