| 词条 | Chacraraju |
| 释义 |
| name = Chacraraju | photo = Chacraraju.jpg | photo_alt = | photo_caption = | map = Peru | map_caption = Location in Peru | location = | coordinates = {{coord|8.993261|S|77.614975|W|type:mountain_region:PE-ANC_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}} | elevation_m = 6108 | elevation_ref = [1] | prominence = | prominence_m = | prominence_ft = | prominence_ref = | parent_peak = | listing = | range = Cordillera Blanca, Andes | topo = | range_coordinates = | type = | age = | volcanic_arc/belt = | last_eruption = | first_ascent = Chakrarahu Oeste: Lionel Terray et al (31 July 1956) - Chakrarahu Este: Lionel Terray et al. 5 August 1962 | easiest_route = | other_name = | photo_size = }}Chacraraju[1][2][3][4] or Chakraraju[5] (possibly from Quechua chakra little farm ; field, land sown with seed, rahu snow, ice, mountain with snow)[6][7][8] is a mountain in the Cordillera Blanca in the Andes range of Peru. The mountain has two distinctive peaks Chacraraju Oeste (west summit; {{convert|6108|m|ft|0}}) and Chacraraju Este (east summit; {{convert|6001|m|ft|0}}).[5] Chacraraju is located in the Ancash Region, Huaylas Province, Caraz District, and in the Yungay Province, Yungay District.[9] It lies south and southeast of Pirámide. Lake Parón and the little Lake Chacra lie northwest of the mountain.[1] The peak is accessible from the Pisco base camp at Cebollapampa.[2] ClimbingChakrarahu is considered the steepest and the most difficult-to-climb six-thousander in the Andes.[10] Although by no means worked out, the south face of the mountain has a quite staggering number of steep and difficult lines, enough to bear comparison with areas such as the south face of Mont Blanc du Tacul for maturity. The north side bore the brunt maturity of early development but still retains the greatest potential. A French expedition led by Lionel Terray first climbed the mountain on 31 July 1956 (Chakrarahu Oeste) and on 5 August 1962 (Chakrarahu Este) on what after have become the normal routes (northeast face and northeast ridge). Greg Mortimer was badly injured during a later attempt to climb the mountain.[11] Some of the routes are amongst the most desperate of the Cordillera Blanca and probably of the entire Andes. All the routes take several days and involve hanging bivouacs. First ascents to the ridge linking the east and west summits are recorded. Not all the parties are able to reach the true summits of Chakrarahu Este and Oeste, because this requires traversing below the cornices and obviously increases the seriousness of the climbs. See also
References1. ^1 {{Cite book|title=Alpenvereinskarte 0/3a. Cordillera Blanca Nord (Peru). 1:100 000|last=|first=|publisher=Oesterreichischer Alpenverein|year=2005|isbn=3-928777-57-2|location=|pages=}} 2. ^1 2 {{Cite book|url=|title=The Andes: A Guide for Climbers|last=Biggar|first=John|date=2005|publisher=Andes|isbn=9780953608720|pages=68|language=en}} 3. ^{{Cite book|title=Peru 1:100 000, Corongo (18-h)|last=|first=|publisher=IGN (Instituto Geográfico Nacional - Perú)|year=|isbn=|location=|pages=}} 4. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.mincetur.gob.pe/TURISMO/OTROS/inventario%20turistico/Ficha.asp?cod_Ficha=4643|title=Nevado Chacraraju|date=|website=Inventario Turístico del Perú|publisher=MINCETUR|language=Spanish|author=|accessdate=June 28, 2016|deadurl=yes|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20160812141107/http://www.mincetur.gob.pe/TURISMO/OTROS/inventario%20turistico/Ficha.asp?cod_Ficha=4643|archivedate=August 12, 2016|df=}} 5. ^1 {{Cite book|title=Yuraq Janka: A Guide to the Peruvian Andes|last=Ricker|first=John|publisher=The Mountaineers Books|year=1977|isbn=9781933056708|location=|pages=76}} 6. ^Teofilo Laime Ajacopa, Diccionario Bilingüe Iskay simipi yuyayk'ancha, La Paz, 2007 (Quechua-Spanish dictionary) 7. ^lema.rae.es Diccionario de la lengua española, retrieved on October 21, 2013 8. ^babylon.com 9. ^escale.minedu.gob.pe - UGEL map of the Huaylas Province (Ancash Region) 10. ^{{cite book | author1=Cathy Biggar | author2=John Biggar | title=The Andes: A Trekking Guide | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-rAnnaEjo8kC&pg=PA61 | accessdate=26 January 2013 | date=21 May 2001 | publisher=Andes | isbn=978-0-9536087-1-3 | pages=61 }} 11. ^{{cite web | url = http://www.abc.net.au/tv/talkingheads/txt/s2698247.htm | title = Interview with Greg Mortimer (ABC1 Monday 6:30pm) | publisher = Australian Broadcasting Corporation (ABC) | date = 2009-10-05 | accessdate = 2012-01-26 }} 3 : Mountains of Peru|Mountains of Ancash Region|Six-thousanders of the Andes |
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