| 词条 | Huascarán |
| 释义 |
| name = Huascarán | photo =File:Huascarán.jpg | photo_caption = Huascarán as viewed from Callejón de Huaylas | elevation_m = 6768 | elevation_ref = [1] | prominence_m = 2776 | prominence_ref = [2] | range = Cordillera Blanca | listing = Country high point Ultra | location = Yungay, Peru | map = Peru | range_coordinates = | map_caption = Peru | map_size = 240 | label_position = | coordinates = {{coord|09|07|18|S|77|36|15|W|type:mountain_region:PE_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}} | coordinates_ref = [2] | topo = | type = Granite | age = Cenozoic | first_ascent = Huascarán Sur: 20 July 1932 - Huascarán Norte: 2 September 1908 | easiest_route = glacier/snow/ice climb }}Huascarán ({{IPA-es|waskaˈɾan}}) (Quechua: Waskaran) is a mountain in the Peruvian province of Yungay (Ancash Region), situated in the Cordillera Blanca range of the western Andes. The highest southern summit of Huascarán (Huascarán Sur) is the highest point in Peru, the northern part of Andes (north of Lake Titicaca) and in all of the Earth's Tropics. Huascarán is the fourth highest mountain in the Western Hemisphere and South America after Aconcagua, Ojos del Salado, and Monte Pissis. The mountain was named after Huáscar, a 16th-century Inca emperor who was the Sapa Inca of the Inca empire.[3] GeographyThe mountain has two distinct summits, the higher being the south one (Huascarán Sur) with an elevation of {{convert|6768|m|0}}.[1] The north summit (Huascarán Norte) has an elevation of {{convert|6654|m|0}}.[1] The two summits are separated by a saddle (called 'Garganta'). The core of Huascarán, like much of the Cordillera Blanca, consists of Cenozoic era granite.[4] Huascarán gives its name to Huascarán National Park which surrounds it, and is a popular location for trekking and mountaineering. The Huascarán summit is one of the points on the Earth's surface farthest from the Earth's center,[5] closely behind the farthest point, Chimborazo in Ecuador.[1] The summit of Huascarán is the place on Earth with the smallest gravitational force.[6] ClimbingHuascarán is normally climbed from the village of Musho to the west via a high camp in the col that separates the two summits, known as La Garganta. The ascent normally takes five to seven days, the main difficulties being the large crevasses that often block the route.[7] The normal route is of moderate difficulty and rated between PD and AD (depending on the conditions of the mountain) according to the International French Adjectival System. On July 20, 2016, nine climbers were caught in an avalanche on Huascarán's normal route at approximately {{Convert|5800|m||abbr=on}}, four of whom died.[8] HistoryThe summit of Huascarán Sur was first reached on 20 July 1932 by a joint German–Austrian expedition.[9] The team followed what would become later the normal route (named today Garganta route). The north peak (Huascarán Norte) had previously been climbed on 2 September 1908 by a U.S. expedition that included Annie Smith Peck,[10] albeit this first ascent is somewhat disputed. In 1989, a group of eight amateur mountaineers, the "Social Climbers", held what was recognised by the Guinness Book of Records (1990 edition) to be "the world's highest dinner party" on top of the mountain, as documented by Chris Darwin and John Amy in their book The Social Climbers, and raised £10,000 for charity.[11][12] Huascarán NorteApart from the normal route, climbed in 1908 and rated PD+/AD-, all the other routes are committing and serious.
Huascarán SurAs for the North summit, apart the normal route all the others are difficult.
1970 earthquakeOn 31 May 1970, the Ancash earthquake caused a substantial part of the north side of the mountain to collapse. The avalanche mass, an estimated {{Convert|80|e6m3||abbr=off}} of ice, mud and rock, was about half a mile wide and a mile long ({{Convert|0.5x1|mi||1|disp=out}}). It advanced about {{convert|11|mi|km}} at an average speed of {{Convert|280|to|335|km/h|abbr=on|round=5}},[13] burying the towns of Yungay and Ranrahirca under ice and rock, killing more than 20,000 people.[14][15] At least 20,000 people were also killed in Huaraz, site of a 1941 avalanche which killed over 6000 (see Palcacocha Lake).[20] Estimates suggest that the earthquake killed over 66,000 people.[16][17] Also buried by an avalanche was a Czechoslovak mountaineering team, none of whose 15 members were ever seen again.[18] This and other earthquake-induced avalanche events are often described{{By whom?|date=November 2017}} incorrectly as "eruptions" of Huascarán, which is not of volcanic origin. An earlier avalanche on January 10, 1962, caused by a rapid rise in temperature,[19] killed an estimated 4,000 people.[20] See also
Bibliography
| title=Encyclopedia of Earthquakes and Volcanoes|year=2006 | publisher=Infobase Publishing | last1=Gates|first1=Alexander E. | last2=Ritchie|first2=David|isbn=9780816072705}}
References1. ^1 2 3 {{cite book|last=Helman|first=Adam|title=The Finest Peaks: Prominence and Other Mountain Measures|year=2005|isbn=978-1-4120-5995-4|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=LUmA5yY1F_YC&pg=PA5|page=5}} On the other hand Biggar gives 6,746 metres. 2. ^1 {{cite web|url=http://www.peaklist.org/WWlists/ultras/peru.html |title=ultra-prominences|publisher=peaklist.org|accessdate=2008-12-29}} 3. ^Room, Adrian 4. ^Ricker, John F., Yuraq Janka: Cordilleras Blanca and Rosko, Alpine Club of Canada, 1977, {{ISBN|0-920330-04-5}}, after Wilson, Reyes, and Garayar, 1967. 5. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.abc.net.au/science/k2/moments/s1086384.htm|title=Tall Tales about Highest Peaks|publisher=Australian Broadcasting Corporation|accessdate=2008-12-29}} 6. ^{{cite web|title=Gravity Variations Over Earth Much Bigger Than Previously Thought|url=https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2013/09/130904105345.htm|date=September 4, 2013|publisher=Science Daily|accessdate=2014-01-01}} 7. ^Biggar, John 8. ^{{cite web|url=http://amountainjourney.com/mountain-climbers-avalanche-huascaran-andes-peru/|title=Avalanche On Huascaran In Andes Of Peru Kills 4, 5 Rescued - A Mountain Journey|date=21 July 2016|publisher=|accessdate=12 June 2018}} 9. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.huascaranperu.net/Ascenciones.htm |title=1932 ascent |publisher=huascaranperu.net |accessdate=2014-07-01 |deadurl=yes |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20120215143016/http://www.huascaranperu.net/Ascenciones.htm |archivedate=February 15, 2012 }} 10. ^{{cite web|url=http://www.ric.edu/faculty/rpotter/smithpeck.html|title=Annie Smith Peck|publisher=Dr. Russell A. Potter|accessdate=2010-12-05}} 11. ^{{cite book | title=ABC de la evolución | first=Julián | last=Monge-Nájera | publisher=EUNED | year=1995 | isbn=9977-64-822-0 | page=58 }} 12. ^{{cite news | url=http://www.guardian-series.co.uk/news/1705342.mouthwatering_challenge/ | journal=Epping Forest Guardian | title=Mouth-watering challenge | date=21 September 2007 | accessdate=2011-05-31 }} 13. ^{{cite journal|url=http://www.iris.edu/seismo/quakes/1970peru/Plafker1971.pdf|title=Geological Aspects of the May 31, 1970 Peru Earthquake|work=Bulletin of the Seismological Society of America|date=June 1971|volume=61|issue=2|pages=543–578|accessdate=2014-01-01}} 14. ^{{cite journal|last=U.S. Dept. of the Interior|date=October 1970|title=The Peru Earthquake: a Special Study|journal=Bulletin of the Atomic Scientists|volume=26|issue=8|pages=17–19|}} 15. ^{{cite web |url=http://www.jayfrogel.com/Peru98/Peru98_Yungay/0Peru98_Yungay_home.html |title=The Village of Yungay and the Surrounding Countryside |publisher=Jay A. Frogel |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20120218223855/http://www.jayfrogel.com/Peru98/Peru98_Yungay/0Peru98_Yungay_home.html |archivedate=2012-02-18 |accessdate=2010-12-05}} 16. ^Gates & Ritchie p. 110 17. ^{{cite book|title=Peru|year=2004|publisher=Lonely Planet|first1=Rob|last1=Rachowiecki|first2=Charlotte|last2=Beech|page=308}} 18. ^{{cite web |title=Historie československé expedice Peru 1970 (Czech only) |url=http://www.hkvysehrad.cz/peru70.html |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20140709025114/http://www.hkvysehrad.cz/peru70.html |archivedate=2014-07-09 |accessdate=2015-09-14 |deadurl=yes}} 19. ^1 {{cite web |url=http://snobear.colorado.edu/Markw/Mountains/07/Andes/Huascaran.ppt|title=Sacred mountains: Myth and Morphology|accessdate=2014-01-01}} 20. ^{{cite news|url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/onthisday/hi/dates/stories/january/11/newsid_3306000/3306665.stm|title=1962: Thousands killed in Peru landslide|publisher=British Broadcasting Corporation|accessdate=2010-12-05|date=1962-01-11}} External links{{commons category|Huascarán}}
7 : Mountains of Peru|Mountains of Ancash Region|Huascarán National Park|Avalanches|Landslides in Peru|Highest points of countries|Six-thousanders of the Andes |
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