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词条 Hemmerle
释义

  1. Background

  2. Design

  3. Museum Exhibitions

  4. References

  5. External links

Hemmerle is a Munich-based jeweller founded in 1893 by brothers Joseph and Anton Hemmerle.[1]

Background

Anton and Joseph Hemmerle established Hemmerle when they received a Royal warrant of appointment to create medals for the Royal Bavarian Court, Bavarian Order of Merit.[2] The Hemmerle boutique at 14 Maximillianstrasse opened in 1904 and remains there today.[3]

Stefan Hemmerle, Joseph's grandson, manages the company along with his wife Sylveli. Christian and Yasmin Hemmerle, their son and daughter-in-law, manage design and product development.[4]

Stefan Hemmerle in 1995 designed a ring for the wife of a Munich art collector, in response to her practice of wearing Berlin iron jewellery (which Germans received in exchange for donating their gold and silver jewels toward funding the War of Liberation). He set a diamond in textured iron rather than in gold or platinum. The combination of common metal with a precious stone was unusual.[5]

Design

Hemmerle jewellers use gemstones including orange-pink sapphires, green diamonds or conch pearls.[6] often set in unorthodox materials such as copper, steel or wood.[7][8] Each piece is designed bespoke. The family import materials including South China Sea Melo pearls[9] or blue aquamarines from Brazil’s Santa Maria mines.

Hemmerle’s styles include the tassel earring, creating using a traditional Austrian technique of knitting together cut stones often in bright colours into invisibly stitched strands.[10]

Hemmerle’s harmony bangle was included in the permanent collection of the William and Judith Bollinger Jewellery Gallery at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum in October 2010.[11]

In 2011, the Hemmerles co-wrote a book Delicious Jewels with the chef and author Tamasin Day-Lewis, published by Prestel Publishing.[12]

Hemmerle's Bangle Bracelet, Egyptian Story, 2012, became part of the permanent collection of the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum in New York City in January 2013.[13]

In 2014 the company designed a jewellery collection consisting of twelve brooches, two pairs of earrings, a necklace and a ring, with themes of fruits, seeds, leaves and trees.[14]

The company also published a poetry book, Nature’s Jewels.[15] through the art-book publisher Mack with poems by Greta Bellamacina.[16]

In 2016 Hemmerle announced The [AL] Project, a series of jewels exploring the properties of aluminium, previewed at TEFAF in Maastricht.[17] In the same year, Hemmerle participated in Beauty—Cooper Hewitt Design Triennial at the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum in New York. This is the fifth instalment of the Triennial exhibition series.[18]

Museum Exhibitions

Hemmerle jewels have been part of numerous exhibitions worldwide including Canada, the United States, Japan, Australia, France and the UAE, amongst others. Exhibitions include: [https://www.welt.de/print-welt/article93825/Die-Kunst-des-Juweliers.html Myths: Jewels Today – Seen by Stefan Hemmerle, Die Neue Sammlung, the State Museum of Applied Arts and Design, Munich, Germany (2006)]; Pearls, travelling exhibition (2001-2008); [https://www.rom.on.ca/en/exhibitions-galleries/exhibitions/past-exhibitions/the-nature-of-diamonds The Nature of Diamonds, travelling exhibition (2008-2010)]; The Pearl Exhibition, Museum of Islamic Art, Doha, Qatar (2010); Serpentina: The Snake in Jewellery Around the World, Schmuckmuseum, Pforzheim, Germany, (2010-2011); Pearls, Victoria and Albert Museum, London, UK (2013-2014), and [https://www.cooperhewitt.org/events/current-exhibitions/beauty-cooper-hewitt-design-triennial/ Beauty - Cooper Hewitt Design Triennial,] [https://www.cooperhewitt.org/events/current-exhibitions/beauty-cooper-hewitt-design-triennial/ Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, New York USA (2016). ]

References

1. ^{{cite journal| last=Newman| first=Jill| url=http://robbreport.com/Article.aspx?pid=138499&mpid=1| title=Jewelry: Forging Ahead| work=Robb Report| date=1 March 2010| accessdate=2015-10-23}}
2. ^{{cite web|title=Bayerische Staatsregierung |url=http://www.bayern.de/Bayerischer-Verdienstordnen-.370/index.htm |publisher=Bavarian State Government |language=German |deadurl=yes |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20140903203621/http://www.bayern.de/Bayerischer-Verdienstordnen-.370/index.htm |archivedate=September 3, 2014 }}
3. ^{{cite news| last=Becker| first=Vivienne| title=The Cult Shop-Hemmerle| url=http://www.howtospendit.com/#!/articles/2030-the-cult-shop-hemmerle| work=How To Spend It| location=London| date=8 July 2010| accessdate=2015-10-23}}
4. ^{{cite journal|last=Forsyth |first=Liz |url=http://moreintelligentlife.com/content/liz-forsyth/jewellery-their-dark-materials |title=Their Dark Materials |work=Intelligent Life |date=Winter 2009 |deadurl=yes |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20120707053757/http://moreintelligentlife.com/content/liz-forsyth/jewellery-their-dark-materials |archivedate=2012-07-07 |df= }}
5. ^{{cite news| last=Lankarani| first=Nazanin| url=https://www.nytimes.com/2010/05/21/arts/21iht-acajhem.html| title=Dedication to Originality and Boldness| work=The New York Times| date=20 May 2010}}
6. ^{{cite book| last=Bari| first=Hubert| title=The Pink Pearl: A Natural Treasure of the Caribbean| publisher=Skira| date=16 October 2007| page=112| isbn=978-8861300132}}
7. ^{{cite journal| last=Newman| first=Jill| url=http://robbreport.com/Robb-Recommends/Jewelry/Hemmerle| work=Robb Report| title=Hemmerle| date=11 July 2010| accessdate=2015-10-23}}
8. ^{{cite book| last=Peltason| first=Ruth| title=Jewelry from Nature| publisher=Thames & Hudson| date=1 October 2010| page=129| isbn=978-0500515334}}
9. ^{{cite book| last1=Bari| first1=Hubert| title=Pearls| publisher=Skira| date=14 September 2010| page=177| isbn=978-8857200880}}
10. ^{{cite journal|last=Diamond |first=Jessica |url=http://www.wallpaper.com/gallery/design/dont-use-/17051966/32783 |archive-url=https://archive.is/20130209111807/http://www.wallpaper.com/gallery/design/dont-use-/17051966/32783 |dead-url=yes |archive-date=9 February 2013 |title=Gallery |work=Wallpaper* |date=5 July 2012 }}
11. ^{{cite journal| last=Neel| first=Julia| url=http://www.vogue.co.uk/jewellery/news/2010/06/30/hemmerle-jewellery| title=Best of Bavaria| work=Vogue| date=30 June 2010}}
12. ^{{cite news| last=Ballentine| first=Sandra| url=https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2011/04/29/t-magazine/01get-collage.html/| title=A Profile in Style — Christian and Yasmin Hemmerle| work=The New York Times| date=28 April 2011}}
13. ^{{cite web| title=Egyptian Story Bangle Bracelet, 2012| url=https://collection.cooperhewitt.org//objects/18797511/| author=Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum| accessdate=2015-10-23| publisher=Smithsonian Institution}}
14. ^{{cite journal| first=Sonia| last=Kolesnikov-Jessop| title=Hemmerle Launches Nature’s Jewels Collection and Poetry Book at TEFAF| url=http://encn.blouinartinfo.com/news/story/1016990/hemmerle-launches-natures-jewels-collection-and-poetry-book| work=BlouinArtinfo| date=17 March 2014| accessdate=2015-10-23}}
15. ^{{cite book| title=Nature's Jewels| url=https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Jewels-hemmerle/dp/1907946632/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1445628724&sr=1-1&keywords=hemmerle+nature%27s+jewels| publisher=Hemmerle| isbn=978-1907946639}}
16. ^{{cite web| title=Biography| url=http://gretabellamacina.com/bio.html| publisher=Greta Bellamacina| accessdate=2015-10-23}}
17. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.tefaf.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=148&tabindex=147&postid=34102|title=Hemmerle presents ‘The [AL] Project’: jewels exploring the properties of aluminium|website=www.tefaf.com|access-date=2016-03-07}}
18. ^{{Cite web|url=http://www.cooperhewitt.org/2015/09/15/cooper-hewitt-announces-2016-exhibition-beauty%E2%80%95cooper-hewitt-design-triennial/|title=Cooper Hewitt website|last=|first=|date=|website=|publisher=|access-date=}}

External links

  • {{official website|http://www.hemmerle.com}}
  • {{cite journal| url=http://lux-mag.com/2013/12/23/diamond-in-the-rough/| work=LUX Magazine| title=Diamond in the Rough| date=23 December 2013| first=Darius| last=Sanai}}
  • {{cite web|url=http://www.die-neue-sammlung.de/z/preise/red_dot/mythen_2/jewels_en.htm |title=Die Neue Sammlung |publisher=State Museum of Applied Arts and Design |year=2007 |language=German |deadurl=yes |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20071111122338/http://www.die-neue-sammlung.de/z/preise/red_dot/mythen_2/jewels_en.htm |archivedate=2007-11-11 |df= }}
  • {{cite web| url=http://www.waterstones.com/waterstonesweb/products/hemmerle/tamasin+day-lewis/hemmerle/delicious+jewels/8524811/| title=Delicious Jewels| publisher=Waterstones}}
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1 : Manufacturing companies based in Munich

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